Alexis Soyer's Part 6: Soups
Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Alexis Soyer's Part 6 (Soups) Page — Here you will find the full text from the sixth section: Soups of Alexis Soyer's Modern Housewife or Ménagère As well as the full text this page also provides links out to the overall index of the book and links to modern redactions of each and every recipe (where practicable). This site builds a complete library of Eliza Acton recipes, allowing the modern cook to make them at home today. Enjoy...
SOUPS.
In France, no dinner is served without soup, and no good soup is supposed to be made without the pot-au-feu (See No. 228), it being the national dish of the middle and poorer classes of that country. I think it might be of service to the working classes, as, by it they would be oftener able to partake of a hot dinner, the advantages to be derived from which, in a cold climate like ours, I have already remarked upon. Clear light soups are very delicate, and in this country more fit for the wealthy; whilst the more substantial thick soups, such as mock turtle, ox tail, peas, &C., are more in vogue, consequent upon being better adapted for the million, as a less quantity is more satisfying; therefore, after giving a few series of clear soups, I shall proceed to give a greater variety of the thicker sorts, being careful that every receipt shall be so plain as to give a correct idea of its cost.
184. STOCK FOR ALL KINDS OF SOUP.—Procure a knuckle of veal about six pounds in weight, which cut into pieces about the size of an egg, as also half a pound of lean ham or bacon; then rub a quarter of a pound of butter upon the bottom of the stewpan (capable of holding about two gallons), into which put the meat and bacon, with half a pint of water, two ounces of salt, three middle-sized onions, with two cloves in each, one turnip, a carrot, half a leek, and half a head of celery; put the cover upon the stewpan, which place over a sharp fire, occasionally stirring round its contents with a wooden spoon, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white thickish glaze, which will lightly adhere to the spoon; fill up the stewpan with cold water, and when upon the point of boiling, draw it to the corner of the fire, where it must gently simmer for three hours, carefully skimming off every particle of grease and scum; pass your stock through a fine hair sieve, and it is ready for use when required.
The above will make a delicious broth for all kinds of clear soups, and of course for thick soups or purees; by boiling it rather faster about five minutes before passing, you will be better enabled to take off every particle of grease from the surface. In making a stock of beef proceed as above, but allow double the time to simmer; • mutton or lamb, if any trimmings, might also be used; if beef, use seven pounds; if mutton, eight for lamb, seven, of course bones and all included; with care, this broth would be quite clear. To give a little colour, as required for all clear soups, use a little brown gravy or browning, but never attempt to brown it by letting it colour at the bottom of the stewpan, for in that case you would destroy the greater part of the osmazome.
185. ANOTHER WAY, more economical.—Instead of cutting up the knuckle of veal so small, cut it in four or five pieces only, and leave the bacon in one piece; then, when the broth is passed, take out the veal, which is very excellent served with a little of the broth for gravy, and the bacon with a few greens upon another dish. This is as I always eat it myself; but some persons may probably prefer a little parsley-and-butter sauce or piquante sauce, served with it. Should any of the veal be left until cold, it might be cut into thin slices, and gradually warmed in either of the before-mentioned sauces. Should you make your stock from the leg or shin of beef, stew it double the time, preserve the vegetables boiled in the stock, and serve with beef, or serve the beef with some nice sharp sauce over; the remainder, if cold, may also be hashed in the ordinary way. If of mutton, and you have used the scrags of the neck, the breast, head, or the chump of the loin, keep them in as large pieces as possible; and, when done, serve with a few mashed turnips, and caper sauce, separately; if any remaining until cold, mince it. Lamb would be seldom used for stock, being much too expensive; but in case of an abundance, which may sometimes happen in the country, proceed the same as for mutton.
186. BROWN GRAVIES.—Rub an ounce of butter over the bottom of a stewpan capable of holding about three quarts; have ready peeled four onions, cut them into thick slices, with which cover the bottom (of the stewpan; over these lay about three pounds of beef from the leg or shin, cut into thin slices, with the bone chopped very small; add a small carrot, a turnip cut in slices, and a couple of cloves; set the stewpan upon a gentle fire for ten minutes, shaking it round occasionally to prevent burning; after which let it go upon a slow fire for upwards of an hour, until the bottom is covered with a blackish glaze; but not burnt; when properly done, and ready for filling up, you will perceive the fat that runs from the meat quite clear, fill up the stewpan with cold water, add a teaspoonful of salt; and when upon the point of boiling, set it on a corner of the fire, where let it simmer gently about an hour, skimming off all the fat and scum which may rise to the surface; when done pass it through a fine sieve into a basin, and put by to use for the following purposes:—For every kind of roast meat, poultry, or game especially; also, to give a good colour to soups and sauces. This gravy will keep [several days, by boiling it every other day. Although beef is the most proper meat for the above purpose, it may be made of veal, mutton, lamb, or even with fresh pork, rabbits, or poultry.
187. BROWNING.—When in business, and not so much time to devote to the kitchen, I used to make shift with a browning from the following receipt, using, however, but a very few drops: put two ounces of powdered sugar into a middling-sized stewpan, which place over a slow fire; when beginning to melt, stir it round with a wooden spoon until getting quite black, then pour over half a pint of cold water: leave it to dissolve, and take a little for use when required. Burnt onions are used in France for this purpose.
188. GLAZE is an almost indispensable article in a cuisine bourgeoise, and should be kept by all persons in the middle classes of life, the advantage being that it will keep for months together, is very simple to make, and is always useful in cookery, however so humble; in fact, with it you can dress a very good dinner with very little trouble.
Make a stock as directed in No. 184, but omitting the salt, which, when done, pass through a cloth into a basin; then fill the stewpan up a second time with hot water, and let boil four hours longer to obtain all the succulence from the meat, then pass it through a cloth the same as the first; then pour both stocks in a large stewpan together, set it over the fire, and let it boil as fast as possible, leaving a large spoon in, to stir occasionally and prevent its boiling over; when reduced to about three pints, pour it into a smaller stewpan, set again to boil at the comer, skimming well if required; when reduced to a quart, place it quite over the fire, well stirring with a wooden spoon until forming a thickish glaze (which will adhere to the spoon) of a fine yellowish-brown colour: pour it into a basin, or, if for keeping any time, into a long bladder, from which cut a slice and use where directed.
Where, however, only a small quantity is required, reduce only the second stock, using the first for either soup or sauce; but in that case the salt must not be omitted from the first stock, but from the second only. Veal at all times makes the best glaze, but any kinds of meat, game, or poultry, will produce more or less.
189. TO CLARIFY STOCK, if required.—In case, by some accident, your stock should not be clear, put it (say three quarts) into a stewpan, and place it over a good fire, skim well, and, when boiling, have ready the whites of three eggs, (carefully separated from their yolks,) to which add half a pint of water; whisk well together; then add half a pint of the boiling stock gradually, still whisking the eggs; then whisk the boiling stock, pouring the whites of eggs, &c, in whilst so doing, which continue until nearly boiling again, then take it from the fire, let it remain until the whites of eggs separate themselves, pass it through a clean fine cloth into a basin. (This must be taken as a rule for every kind of clear soup, which must be strictly followed by every person wishing to profit by this little work. These principles, once learned, would be useful at all times, and save a great deal of useless reference in the perusal of these receipts; and no persons can make themselves answerable for the success of any individual in making soups if the instructions recommended be not strictly followed. The following rule should be therefore punctually attended to.]
All clear soups ought not to be too strong of meat, and must be of a light brown sherry or straw colour. All white or brown thick soups should be rather thin, with just sufficient consistency to adhere lightly to a spoon when hot; soups of fish, poultry, or game especially. All purees, no matter whether of meat or vegetables, require to be somewhat thicker, which may be ascertained by its adhering more thickly to the spoon. Every Italian soup must be very clear, rather stronger of meat, and the colour of pale sherry.
By following the few foregoing observations, experience will teach you volumes; for as there is a great difference in the quality of different materials, (flour, for instance, which, if strong, would tend to thicken, but if weak, actually almost turns to water by boiling,) therefore your judgment, with the above few important remarks, will make you more perfect than the most precise quantities of weights and measurements upon that important point.
190. CLEAR VEGETABLE SOUP— Peel a middling sized carrot and turnip, which cut first into slices, then into small square pieces about the size of dice; peel also eighteen button onions; wash the whole in cold water and drain them upon a sieve; when dry put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; set them upon a very sharp fire for ten minutes, tossing them over every now and then until the vegetables become covered with a thin shiny glaze, which may take rather more than the before-mentioned time; care, however, must be taken, for should you let them get brown, the flavour of the soup would be spoiled; whilst, upon the other hand, if put in whilst surrounded with a whitish liquid, your soup would look white and unsightly. With a little attention, however, success is certain; and, once accomplished, there would be no difficulty in making any vegetable soups or sauces, therefore it is very desirable to know how to do it properly. When done, pour two quarts of clear broth over them, set it upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling, place it at the corner to simmer, until the vegetables are quite tender, (the onions especially,) carefully skimming off all the butter as it rises to the surface; it will require about half an hour's simmering, and there should be half a pound of vegetables to two quarts of stock; taste if properly seasoned, which it ought to be with the above proportions, but use your own judgment accordingly.
The only difference to be made in these descriptions of soup is in the way the vegetables are cut; cutters for the purpose may be purchased at any brazier's shop, either in London or the country, at a trifling expense.
191. PRINTANIÈRE SOUP.—Cut a small quantity of vegetables, as in the last, but rather less carrot and turnip, introducing a little celery, leek, and young spring onions, instead of the button onions; proceed exactly as before, but ten minutes before taking it from the fire, wash a few leaves of sorrel, which cut small and put into the soup, with six sprigs of chervil; in summer, a few fresh boiled peas or French beans served in it is an improvement.
In whatever shape you may cut the vegetables for soup, always be cautious not to cut some pieces larger than others, and the whole of them rather small than large; for if some pieces should be small and others large, the smaller pieces would be quite in puree, whilst the larger ones would still be quite hard, which would cause your soup not only to eat badly, but give it an unsightly appearance, for the vegetable boiled to a puree would make the soup thick. The above remark, although simple, is still very important.
192. JULIENNE SOUP.—This soup is entirely the hereditary property of France, and is supposed to be so called from the months of June and July, when all vegetables are in full season; and to make it in reality as originally made, a small quantity of every description of vegetables should be used, including lettuce, sorrel, and tarragon; however, some few sorts of vegetables, mixed together, make a most estimable soup. Weigh half a pound of the vegetables in fair proportions to each other; that is, carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and leeks, which cut into small fillets an inch in length, and of the thickness of a trussing-needle; when done, wash dry, and pass them in butter and sugar as before, add two quarts of clear soup, adding, just before it is done, a little sorrel, cabbage-lettuce, and chervil or peas, if handy, but it will be excellent without either.
193. CLEAR TURNIP SOUP.—Cut, with a round vegetable scoop, about forty pieces of turnip, of the shape and size of small marbles, which put into a stewpan, with sugar and butter as before, but fry them of a light brownish colour, add two quarts of broth, and finish the soup as in the previous receipts. A tablespoonful of Italian paste, previously half boiled in water, then drained and finished in the soup, is also an improvement.
194. CLEAR ARTICHOKE SOUP.—Peel twelve Jerusalem artichokes, which well wash, then cut as many round scoops as possible, the same as in the last, proceeding exactly the same. The remainder of either turnips, artichokes, or carrots, may be boiled, and mashed with a little butter, pepper, and salt, and served as a vegetable, or reserved to make a soup puree; the remains of other vegetables from the previous soups should also be reserved for flavouring of stock, instead of using the fresh vegetables.
195. VERMICELLI.—Put a quart of clear stock into a stewpan upon the fire, and when boiling, add two ounces of vermicelli; boil gently ten minutes, and it is ready to serve.
196. ITALIAN PASTE.—Procure some small Italian paste, in stars, rings, or any other shape, but small; put on a quart of stock, and when boiling, add two ounces of the paste; boil twenty minutes, or rather more, when it is ready to serve.
197. SEMOULINA.—Take one quart of stock, and when boiling add two tablespoonfuls of semoulina; boil twenty minutes, and it is then done. Proceed the same also with tapioca and sago.
198. MACARONI.—Boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni in a quart of water for ten minutes, then strain it off, and throw it into two quarts of boiling stock; let simmer gently for half an hour, when serve with grated cheese, upon a plate separately.
199. RICE.—Well wash two ounces of the best Patna rice, strain off the water, put the rice into a stewpan, with a quart of cold stock, place it upon the fire, and let simmer about half an hour, until the rice is very tender, but not in pulp.
200. MUTTON BROTH.—Any description of trimmings of mutton may be used for broth, but the scrag ends of the neck are usually chosen. Put two scrags into a stewpan (having previously jointed the bones), with three onions, three turnips, and one carrot; fill up the stewpan with a gallon of water, and place it upon the fire; when boiling, set it at the corner, where let it simmer for three hours, keeping it well skimmed; then cut a small carrot, two turnips, an onion, with a little leek and celery, into small square pieces, which put into another stewpan, with a wineglassful of pearl-barley; skim every particle of fat from the broth, which pour through a hair sieve over them; let the whole boil gently at the corner of the fire until the barley is tender, when it is ready to serve; the meat may be trimmed into neat pieces and served with the broth, or separately with melted butter and parsley, or onion sauce. Half or even a quarter of the above quantity can be made by reducing the ingredients in proportion.
201. IRISH SOUP MADE OF MUTTON BROTH. —This soup is made similar to the last, adding ten or twelve small mealy potatoes cut into large dice, omitting the other vegetables, which being boiled to a puree thicken the broth; just before serving, throw in twenty heads of parsley, and at the same time add a few flowers of marigold, which will really give it a very pleasing flavour.
202. SCOTCH COCK-A-LEEKIE.—Trim two or three bunches of fine winter leeks, cutting off the roots and part of the heads, then split each in halves lengthwise, and each half into three, which wash well in two or three waters, then put them into a stewpan, with a stock previously made as directed (No. 184), and a fowl trussed as for boiling; let the whole simmer very gently at the corner of the fire for three hours, keeping it well skimmed, seasoning a little if required; half an hour before serving add two dozen French plums, without breaking them; when ready to serve, take out the fowl, which cut into neat pieces, place them in a tureen, and pour the leeks and broth over, the leeks being then partly in puree; if too thick, however, add a drop more broth or water. Should the leeks happen to be old and strong, it would be better to blanch them five minutes in a gallon of boiling water previous to putting them in the stock.
Although an old cock is usually procured in Scotland for the above purpose, I prefer a young fowl; but should an old one be most handy, stew it a long time in the stock before passing it. This soup will keep good several days, and would improve by warming a second time.
203. OX-TAIL SOUP.—Cut up two ox-tails, separating them at the joints, put a small piece of butter at the bottom of a stewpan, then put in the ox-tails, with a carrot, a turnip, three onions, a head of celery, a leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; add half a pint of water, and twelve grains of whole pepper, set over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a thickish brown glaze, then add a quarter of a pound of flour, stir it well in, and fill up the stewpan with three quarts of water, add a table spoonful of salt, and stir occasionally until boiling; then set it upon the corner of the stove, skim well, add a gill of good brown gravy, or a few drops of browning, and let simmer until the tails are stewed very tender, the flesh coming easily from the bones, then take them out immediately, and put them into your tureen; pass the soup through a hair sieve over them, add a head of celery, previously cut small, and boiled in a little stock, if approved of, and serve.
Ox-tail soup may also be made clear by omitting the flour, and serving with vegetables, as directed for the clear vegetable soup (No. 190).
204. OX-CHEEK SOUP.—Blanch in boiling water two ox-cheeks, cut off the beard, take away all the bone, which chop up, and cut the flesh into middling-sized pieces, leaving the cheek-part whole; put all together into a stewpan, with six quarts of water, a tablespoonful of salt, ten peppercorns, two carrots, two turnips, one leek, one head of celery, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; let it stew at the corner of the fire six hours, keeping it well skimmed, then take out the fleshy part of the cheeks, and pass the broth through a hair sieve into another stewpan; mix a quarter of a pound of flour with a pint of cold water, which pour into it, and stir over the fire until boiling, when place it at the corner (adding two heads of celery, cut very fine, and a glass of sherry); when the celery is tender, cut the meat into small square pieces, keep them warm in the tureen, and when the soup is ready, pour over, and serve; give it a nice colour with browning.
Sheep's or lamb's heads also make very good song by following the above receipt, and adding two pounds of veal, mutton, or beef to the stock; two heads would be sufficient, and they would not require so long to stew.
205. WHITE MOCK-TURTLE SOUP. —Procure half a calf's head (scalded, not skinned), bone it, cut up a knuckle of veal, also the boned head, which put into a stewpan, well buttered at the bottom, with half a pound of lean ham, an ounce of salt, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, a head of celery, a leek, a bunch of parsley, and a bay-leaf, add half a pint of water; set it upon the fire, moving it round occasionally, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze; then add six quarts of water, and 'put in the half head, let simmer upon the corner of the fire for two hours and a half, or until the head is tender, then take it out, and press it between two dishes, and pass the stock through a hair sieve into a basin; then in another stewpan have a quarter of a pound of butter, with a sprig of thyme, basil, marjoram, and bay-leaf, let the butter get quite hot, then add six ounces of flour to form a roux, stir over the sharp fire a few minutes, keeping it quite white; stand it off the fire to cool, then add the stock, stir over the fire until boiling, then stand it at the corner, skim off all the fat, and pass it through a hair sieve into another stewpan; cut the head into pieces an inch square, but not too thick, and put them into the soup, which season with a little cayenne pepper; when the pieces are hot, add a gill of cream, and pour it into your tureen.
The above quantity would make two tureens of soup, and will keep good several days, but of course half the quantity could be made.
206. BROWN MOCK-TURTLE.—Proceed the same as in the last article, only colouring the stock by drawing it down to a brown glaze, likewise adding half a pint of brown gravy (No. 186), omitting the cream, and adding two glasses of sherry. If no gravy, use browning, and make a brown roux instead of a white one.
207. MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.—Cut up a small knuckle of veal, which put into a stewpan, with a piece of butter, half a pound of lean ham, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, and six apples, add half a pint of water; set the stewpan over a sharp fire, moving the meat round occasionally, let remain until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a brownish glaze, then add three tablespoonfuls of curry powder, one of curry paste, and half a pound of flour, stir well in, and fill the stewpan with a gallon of water; add a spoonful of salt, the half of one of sugar, when boiling, place it at the corner of the fire, and let it simmer two hours and a half, skimming off all the fat as it rises, then pass it through a tammy into a tureen; trim some of the pieces of veal, and put it back in the stewpan to boil, and serve with plain boiled rice separate. Oxtails or pieces of rabbits, chickens, &c, left from a previous dinner, may be served in it instead of the veal. The veal is exceedingly good to eat Taste, before serving, if quite palatable.
208. GIBLET SOUP.—Clean two sets of giblets, which soak for two hours, cut them into equal sizes, and put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, four pounds of veal or beef, half a pound of ham, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, two ounces of salt, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves; place the stewpan over a sharp fire, stirring the meat round occasionally; when the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a light glaze, add a quarter of a pound of flour, stir well in, and fill up with a gallon of water; add about a pint of brown gravy (No. 186), stir occasionally until boiling, then set it at the corner of the stove to simmer, keeping it well skimmed; when the giblets are tender, take them out, put them into your tureen, pass the soup through a hair sieve over, and serve; twenty cooked button onions, or any small shaped vegetables served in it, are very good, as is also a glass of port wine.
209. OYSTER SOUP.—Put four dozen of oysters into a stewpan with their liquor, place upon the fire; when upon the point of boiling, drain them upon a sieve, catching the liquor in a basin; take off the beards, which put into the liquor, and the oysters into a soup tureen; then put a quarter of a pound of butter into another stewpan over the fire, and when melted add six ounces of flour, stir over a slow fire for a short time, but keeping it quite white; let it cool, then add the liquor and beards of the oysters, a quart of milk, and two quarts of stock (No. 184), stir over the fire until boiling, then season with a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, five peppercorns, half a blade of mace, a tablespoonful of Harvey sauce,half ditto of essence of anchovies; let boil quickly at the corner for ten minutes, skim it well, add a gill of cream, if handy, strain through a hair sieve over the oysters, and serve.
210. THE FISHERMAN'S SOUP.—Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, and when melted add six ounces of flour, stir well together over a slow fire a few minutes; when cool, add one quart of milk, and two quarts of stock (No. 184), stir over a fire until boiling; having previously filleted two soles, add the bones and trimmings to the soup, with four cloves, one blade of mace, two bay-leaves, one spoonful of essence of anchovies, one ditto of Harvey sauce, half a saltspoonful of cayenne, a little sugar and salt if required; let the whole boil quickly at the corner for ten minutes, keeping it well skimmed; cut each fillet of sole into six pieces, put them into another stewpan, with half a handful of picked parsley, pass the soup through a hair sieve over, boil again ten minutes, add a gill of cream, if possible, and it is ready to serve. Fillets of brill may be used instead of soles.
211. AUTUMN SOUP.—Cut up four cabbage-lettuces one cos ditto, a handful of sorrel, and a little tarragon and chervil, when well washed and drained put them into a stewpan, with two cucumbers finely sliced, and four ounces of butter, place them over a brisk fire, stirring occasionally until very little liquid remains, then add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring it well in, then pour over three quarts of stock, made as directed (No. 184), adding a quart of young and fresh green peas; half an hour's boiling will suffice for this delicious soup, and the flavour of the vegetables will be fully preserved; season with a teaspoonful of salt, and two of sugar.
212. HODGE-PODGE.—Cut two pounds of fresh scrag of mutton into small pieces, which put into a stewpan, with three quarts of cold water and a tablespoonful of salt, set it upon the fire, and when boiling place it at the corner to simmer, keeping it well skimmed; let it simmer an hour, then add a good-sized carrots, two turnips, two large onions cut into small dice, and six cabbage-lettuces, if in season (the whole well washed), and let simmer until quite tender; skim off all the fat, and serve either with the meat in the soup or separately. If in season, a pint of green peas boiled in the soup is a great improvement.
213. FRENCH CABBAGE SOUP— This is a soup very much in vogue amongst the middle classes of the French people. Having tasted some at Boulogne, I could not resist the idea of making it in England, which was pronounced excellent; it is very economical, and may satisfy a numerous family at a trifling expense. Put a gallon of water into a saucepan, with two pounds of streaky pickled pork or bacon, whichever most convenient, to which add a couple of pounds of white cabbage, cut in strips (using every part but the stalk, and previously well washed), two large onions, a carrot, a turnip, and a head of celery; let the whole boil three or four hours, until the pork is tender, skimming off all the fat, season with a little black pepper, brown sugar, and salt, if required (which is not very frequently the case, the pork or bacon generally being sufficiently so), lay slices of bread in your tureen (about one pound), pour the soup over; keep the tureen covered ten minutes, until the bread is soaked, and it is ready to serve. The pork or bacon may be either served separate or cut into small square pieces, and served in the soup. A few mealy potatoes are sometimes introduced, or a quart of large green peas, or a pint of dry split peas. You must observe that vegetables in France are much more used than in this country, as there are but few poor people there who do not possess a little garden, in which they grow their own.
It is also frequently made maigre by omitting the pork or bacon, adding more vegetables of all kinds, and a quarter of a pound of butter, and frequently where they have nothing else but cabbage, they make it only of that: now, setting all national feeling aside respecting the poverty of their meals, I have known strong healthy men make a hearty meal of it, preferring it to meat, of which they scarcely ever partake.
214. PURÉE OF VEGETABLE SOUP.—Peel and cut up very finely three onions, three turnips, one carrot, and four potatoes, which put into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean ham or bacon, and a bunch of parsley; pass them ten minutes over a sharp fire, then add a good spoonful of flour, which mix well in, add two quarts of stock, and a pint of boiling milk; stir it until boiling; season with a little salt and sugar, rub it through a tammy, put it into another stewpan, boil again, skim, and serve with croutons of fried bread, as for Palestine Soup. It ought to be thickish, but not too much so.
215. PALESTINE SOUP, or PURÉE OF ARTICHOKES.—Have a quarter of a pound of lean bacon or ham, as also an onion, a turnip, and a little celery, cut the whole into small thin slices, and put them into a stewpan, with four ounces of butter; place them over a sharp fire, keeping them stirred, about twenty minutes, or until forming a whitish glaze at the bottom; then have ready washed, peeled, and cut into thin slices, about twelve artichokes, which put into the stewpan with a pint of broth or water, and stew until quite tender, then mix in two tablespoonfuls of flour quite smoothly, add two quarts of stock made as directed (No. 184), and half a pint of milk; keep it constantly stirred until boiling; season with a teaspoonful of salt, and two of sugar, then rub it through a tammy, place it again in a stewpan; let it boil five minutes, keeping it well skimmed, and serve with very small croutons of bread (fried in butter, and dried upon a cloth) in the tureen; a gill of cream, stirred in at the moment of serving, is a great improvement, although it may be omitted.
216. PURÉE OF CAULIFLOWER SOUP.—Proceed as described for the puree of artichokes, but omitting the artichokes, and substituting four middling-sized cauliflowers, previously boiled and chopped fine.
217. PURÉE OF TURNIP SOUP is likewise made in the same manner as a puree of artichokes, substituting twelve young turnips for artichokes and adding half a tablespoonful more of flour.
218. CRECY À LA REINE, or PURÉE of WHITE CARROT.—Procure six large white Belgian carrots, scrape them, and then cut into very thin slices; put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean bacon or ham, a large onion and turnip, and a very white head of celery, all cut into thin slices, and proceed as for Palestine Soup, No. 215.
219. CRECY SOUP, or PURÉE OF CARROTS.—Procure five or six large carrots, as red as possible, which well scrape, then shave them into very thin slices, taking off all the exterior red, but not using the centre, then peel and slice a large onion, a turnip, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, a few sprigs of parsley, and two bay-leaves; put them into a stewpan, with four ounces of butter, fry the whole of a light yellowish colour, then add the carrots, with a pint of water, and let them stew until perfectly tender, mix in two ounces of flour quite smoothly, and add five pints of stock (No. 184); season with a little salt and sugar, and stir upon the fire until boiling, a quarter of an hour, when pass it through a tammy, and finish and serve as in the preceding; no cream, however, must be added. This soup ought to be of a red colour. Boiled rice or fried croutons may be served in it. It must be very smooth, and not too thick.
220. GREEN PEA SOUP.—Put two quarts of green peas into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, cut into small dice, two onions in slices, and a few sprigs of parsley; add a quart of cold water, and with the hands rub all well together; then pour off the water, cover the stewpan close, and stand it over a sharp fire, stirring the contents round occasionally; when very tender, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, which mix well in mashing the peas with your spoon against the sides of the stewpan, add two quarts of stock, or broth from the Pot-au-feu, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a little pepper and salt, if required; boil all well together five minutes, when rub it through a tammy or hair sieve; then put it into another stewpan, with a pint of boiling milk; boil five minutes, skim well, and pour it into your tureen. It must not be too thick; serve with croutons of bread as for Palestine.
221. WINTER PEA SOUP.—Wash a quart of split peas, which put into a stewpan, with half a pound of streaked bacon, two onions in slices, two pounds of veal or beef, cut into small pieces, and a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; add a gallon of water, with a little salt and sugar, place it upon the fire, and when boiling, stand it at the side until the peas are boiled to a puree, and the water has reduced to half; then take" out the meat, which put upon a dish, to be eaten with the bacon, keeping it hot, rub the soup through a hair sieve or tammy, put it into another stewpan, and when boiling, serve. The meat may also be served in the tureen if approved of. Maigre pea-soup may also be made by omitting the meat, adding half a pound of butter, one quart of milk, and omitting a quart of water.
222. LENTIL SOUP.—Cut three onions, a turnip, and the half of a carrot, into very thin slices, which put into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a few sprigs of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and two bay-leaves, add also one pound of leg of beef, cut into small dice; set the stewpan upon the fire, stirring with a wooden spoon, until its contents are fried rather brown, when add one quart of lentils, and three quarts of water; let the whole simmer until the lentils are very tender, when season with nearly an ounce of salt, and half that quantity of sugar; it is then ready to serve.
To make a puree of lentils:—when the soup is made, strain off the broth, add a good spoonful of flour to the lentils, which mash with a wooden spoon against the side of the stewpan; then again put in the broth, boil all up together, keeping it stirred with a spoon; rub it through a tammy or hair sieve, again boil and skim, and it is ready; serve with a few croutons of bread, as directed for Palestine Soup.
223. MAIGRE SOUP.—Cut two onions into very small dice, and put them into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter; fry them a short time, but not to discolour them; have ready three or four handfuls of well-washed sorrel, which cut into ribands and put into the stewpan with the onions, add one tablespoonful of flour, then mix well, then add a pint of milk and a quart of water; boil altogether twenty minutes, keeping it stirred; season with a teaspoonful of sugar and salt, take it from the fire, and stir in quickly a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream or milk (it must not boil afterwards), put the crust of a French roll, cut into strips, in the tureen, pour the soup over, and serve very hot.
224. ONION SOUP MAIGRE.—Peel and cut six large onions into small slices, put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, place them over the fire until well fried, when well mix in a tablespoonful of flour, and rather better than two quarts of water; boil until the onions are quite tender, season with half a spoonful of salt and a little pepper and sugar; finish with a liaison, and serve as in the last.
225. HARE SOUP.—Put half a pound of butter into a stewpan, and, when melted, add three quarters of a pound of flour, and half a pound of streaked bacon, cut into very small pieces; keep stirring over the fire until becoming lightly browned. You have previously cut up a hare into neat smallish pieces; put them into the stewpan, and keep stirring round over the fire until they are set; then fill it up with five quarts of water; add two onions, a head of celery, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, a blade of mace, and four cloves; when boiling, season with one ounce of salt, and a little pepper, and let it simmer at the corner until the pieces of hare are done, which would be in about an hour if a young hare, but double that time if a very old one; the better plan is to try a piece occasionally. When done, take out the best pieces, and the meat of the inferior ones pound in a mortar, remove the bones, put it back in the soup, and pass all through a tammy, put it again into a stewpan, boil for ten minutes, and serve. The above quantity would be sufficient for two tureens. A glass of port or sherry wine may be added. Rabbit, pheasant, grouse, partridge, and other game soups, may be made in the same way.
226. SEMOULINA GELATINEUSE. — Take four pounds of veal, half-a-pound of gammon of bacon, which cut into small pieces, one calf's foot, two carrots, two onions, two leeks, one head of celery; cut small, and place in a stewpan, set over the fire; stir until a white glaze is formed at the bottom of the pan, then fill up with four quarts of water; simmer gently for four hours on the corner of the stove; skim off the fat; strain into another stewpan, which set on the fire again to boil; then put two ounces of semoulina into a basin, one ounce of flour; moisten both with half a pint of milk, stirring with a wooden spoon; pour in the broth, and stir well; season with a teaspoonful of salt, half a one of sugar; boil slowly twenty minutes; it is then ready, and very strengthening for weak constitutions. The addition of a few sprigs of fresh parsley, or two of thyme, or bay-leaf, varies agreeably the taste. It is also very good cold in summer.
227. JENNY LIND'S SOUP—This is the soup invented and often partaken of by the celebrated cantatrice of the name it bears, who partook of it every day when on a visit to the talented authoress, Mrs. Anna Maria Hall, who was kind enough to forward it to me for this edition. I consider it light and digestive.
Make about three quarts of stock, the same as No. 184, which strain through a fine sieve into a middle-size stewpan; set it to boil; add to it three ounces of sago; boil gently twenty minutes; skim; just previous to serving break four fresh eggs, and place the yolk, entirely free from the white, into a basin, beat them well with a spoon; add to it a gill of cream; take the pan from the fire, pour in the yolks, stir quickly for one minute, serve immediately; do not let it boil, or it will curdle, and would not be fit to be partaken of. The stock being previously seasoned, it only requires the addition of half a teaspoonful of sugar, a little more salt, pepper, nutmeg; also thyme, parsley, and bay-leaf will agreeably vary the flavour without interfering with the quality.
228. FRENCH POT-AU-FEU.—Out of this earthen pot comes the favourite soup and bouilli, which has been everlastingly famed as having been the support of several generations of all classes of society in France; from the opulent to the poorest individuals, all pay tribute to its excellence and worth. In fact, this soup and bouilli is to the French what the roast beef and plum-pudding are on a Sunday to the English. No dinner in France is served without soup, and no good soup is supposed to be made without the pot-au-feu. The following is the receipt:—
Put in the pot-au-feu six pounds of beef, four quarts of water, set near the fire, skim; when nearly boiling, add a spoonful and a half of salt, half a pound of liver, two carrots, four turnips, eight young or two old leeks, one head of celery, two onions and one burnt, with a clove in each, and a piece of parsnip, skim again, and let simmer four or five hours, adding a little cold water now and then; take off part of the fat; put slices of bread into the tureen, lay half the vegetables over, and half the broth, and serve the meat separately with the vegetables around. The remains of the broth from the pot-au-feu may be used for any kind of soup instead of the stock, (No. 184.) The best part of the beef for the pot-au-feu is the mouse-buttock, tops of the ribs, clod and stickings. 228.* CONGER EEL SOUP.—An immense consumption of this fish now takes place in Paris amongst the lower orders, but not generally converted into soup; but I do not doubt but what the following receipt will find some amateurs.
Take four pounds of eels, well washed and skimmed, cut into slices of the size of a five-shilling piece, and half an inch thick; put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of butter, melt it, add the pieces, and season with a tablespoonful of salt, a quarter of an ounce of pepper, half an ounce of sugar, two onions chopped fine, a little parsley, a bay-leaf, half a pint of water; cover the pan, set it on a slow fire for about half an hour, without stirring it, then mix two ounces of flour with two pints of water, pour over the fish, let it simmer for twenty minutes, stir the stewpan gently, do not break the fish in taking it out. More or less seasoning may be added, according to taste. This soup, carefully made as above, is very inviting, and though meagre, very nutritive.
228.** ANOTHER CONGER EEL SOUR—Get six pounds of eels, which skin and bone, save about two pounds of the best part to cut in thin slices, which put by until wanted, cut the rest into pieces, with a pound of lean veal, beef, or lamb, and a quarter of a pound of lean bacon; put in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter; two onions cut in thin slices, a little carrot, celery, one bay-leaf, two sprigs of thyme, four cloves, one ounce of salt, and half an ounce of pepper, set it on a quick fire, stir with a wooden spoon continually, until a white glaze is formed at the bottom of the stewpan, add three quarts of water, let it simmer two hours, skim, pass through a sieve into a basin, take a clean saucepan, and put in a quarter of a pound of butter, three tablespoonfuls of flour, place on the fire, and stir until forming a white roux, let it cool a few minutes, pour the stock in, boil for twenty minutes, keep stirring, then place the pieces of eel in it and fifty leaves of fresh parsley, let it simmer till tender, and serve. The addition of a little Harvey or anchovy sauce will vary the flavour.
Soups.
In France, no dinner is served without soup, and no good soup is supposed to be made without the pot-au-feu (See No. 228), it being the national dish of the middle and poorer classes of that country. I think it might be of service to the working classes, as, by it they would be oftener able to partake of a hot dinner, the advantages to be derived from which, in a cold climate like ours, I have already remarked upon. Clear light soups are very delicate, and in this country more fit for the wealthy; whilst the more substantial thick soups, such as mock turtle, ox tail, peas, &C., are more in vogue, consequent upon being better adapted for the million, as a less quantity is more satisfying; therefore, after giving a few series of clear soups, I shall proceed to give a greater variety of the thicker sorts, being careful that every receipt shall be so plain as to give a correct idea of its cost.
184. STOCK FOR ALL KINDS OF SOUP.—Procure a knuckle of veal about six pounds in weight, which cut into pieces about the size of an egg, as also half a pound of lean ham or bacon; then rub a quarter of a pound of butter upon the bottom of the stewpan (capable of holding about two gallons), into which put the meat and bacon, with half a pint of water, two ounces of salt, three middle-sized onions, with two cloves in each, one turnip, a carrot, half a leek, and half a head of celery; put the cover upon the stewpan, which place over a sharp fire, occasionally stirring round its contents with a wooden spoon, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white thickish glaze, which will lightly adhere to the spoon; fill up the stewpan with cold water, and when upon the point of boiling, draw it to the corner of the fire, where it must gently simmer for three hours, carefully skimming off every particle of grease and scum; pass your stock through a fine hair sieve, and it is ready for use when required.
The above will make a delicious broth for all kinds of clear soups, and of course for thick soups or purees; by boiling it rather faster about five minutes before passing, you will be better enabled to take off every particle of grease from the surface. In making a stock of beef proceed as above, but allow double the time to simmer; • mutton or lamb, if any trimmings, might also be used; if beef, use seven pounds; if mutton, eight for lamb, seven, of course bones and all included; with care, this broth would be quite clear. To give a little colour, as required for all clear soups, use a little brown gravy or browning, but never attempt to brown it by letting it colour at the bottom of the stewpan, for in that case you would destroy the greater part of the osmazome.
185. ANOTHER WAY, more economical.—Instead of cutting up the knuckle of veal so small, cut it in four or five pieces only, and leave the bacon in one piece; then, when the broth is passed, take out the veal, which is very excellent served with a little of the broth for gravy, and the bacon with a few greens upon another dish. This is as I always eat it myself; but some persons may probably prefer a little parsley-and-butter sauce or piquante sauce, served with it. Should any of the veal be left until cold, it might be cut into thin slices, and gradually warmed in either of the before-mentioned sauces. Should you make your stock from the leg or shin of beef, stew it double the time, preserve the vegetables boiled in the stock, and serve with beef, or serve the beef with some nice sharp sauce over; the remainder, if cold, may also be hashed in the ordinary way. If of mutton, and you have used the scrags of the neck, the breast, head, or the chump of the loin, keep them in as large pieces as possible; and, when done, serve with a few mashed turnips, and caper sauce, separately; if any remaining until cold, mince it. Lamb would be seldom used for stock, being much too expensive; but in case of an abundance, which may sometimes happen in the country, proceed the same as for mutton.
186. BROWN GRAVIES.—Rub an ounce of butter over the bottom of a stewpan capable of holding about three quarts; have ready peeled four onions, cut them into thick slices, with which cover the bottom (of the stewpan; over these lay about three pounds of beef from the leg or shin, cut into thin slices, with the bone chopped very small; add a small carrot, a turnip cut in slices, and a couple of cloves; set the stewpan upon a gentle fire for ten minutes, shaking it round occasionally to prevent burning; after which let it go upon a slow fire for upwards of an hour, until the bottom is covered with a blackish glaze; but not burnt; when properly done, and ready for filling up, you will perceive the fat that runs from the meat quite clear, fill up the stewpan with cold water, add a teaspoonful of salt; and when upon the point of boiling, set it on a corner of the fire, where let it simmer gently about an hour, skimming off all the fat and scum which may rise to the surface; when done pass it through a fine sieve into a basin, and put by to use for the following purposes:—For every kind of roast meat, poultry, or game especially; also, to give a good colour to soups and sauces. This gravy will keep [several days, by boiling it every other day. Although beef is the most proper meat for the above purpose, it may be made of veal, mutton, lamb, or even with fresh pork, rabbits, or poultry.
187. BROWNING.—When in business, and not so much time to devote to the kitchen, I used to make shift with a browning from the following receipt, using, however, but a very few drops: put two ounces of powdered sugar into a middling-sized stewpan, which place over a slow fire; when beginning to melt, stir it round with a wooden spoon until getting quite black, then pour over half a pint of cold water: leave it to dissolve, and take a little for use when required. Burnt onions are used in France for this purpose.
188. GLAZE is an almost indispensable article in a cuisine bourgeoise, and should be kept by all persons in the middle classes of life, the advantage being that it will keep for months together, is very simple to make, and is always useful in cookery, however so humble; in fact, with it you can dress a very good dinner with very little trouble.
Make a stock as directed in No. 184, but omitting the salt, which, when done, pass through a cloth into a basin; then fill the stewpan up a second time with hot water, and let boil four hours longer to obtain all the succulence from the meat, then pass it through a cloth the same as the first; then pour both stocks in a large stewpan together, set it over the fire, and let it boil as fast as possible, leaving a large spoon in, to stir occasionally and prevent its boiling over; when reduced to about three pints, pour it into a smaller stewpan, set again to boil at the comer, skimming well if required; when reduced to a quart, place it quite over the fire, well stirring with a wooden spoon until forming a thickish glaze (which will adhere to the spoon) of a fine yellowish-brown colour: pour it into a basin, or, if for keeping any time, into a long bladder, from which cut a slice and use where directed.
Where, however, only a small quantity is required, reduce only the second stock, using the first for either soup or sauce; but in that case the salt must not be omitted from the first stock, but from the second only. Veal at all times makes the best glaze, but any kinds of meat, game, or poultry, will produce more or less.
189. TO CLARIFY STOCK, if required.—In case, by some accident, your stock should not be clear, put it (say three quarts) into a stewpan, and place it over a good fire, skim well, and, when boiling, have ready the whites of three eggs, (carefully separated from their yolks,) to which add half a pint of water; whisk well together; then add half a pint of the boiling stock gradually, still whisking the eggs; then whisk the boiling stock, pouring the whites of eggs, &c, in whilst so doing, which continue until nearly boiling again, then take it from the fire, let it remain until the whites of eggs separate themselves, pass it through a clean fine cloth into a basin. (This must be taken as a rule for every kind of clear soup, which must be strictly followed by every person wishing to profit by this little work. These principles, once learned, would be useful at all times, and save a great deal of useless reference in the perusal of these receipts; and no persons can make themselves answerable for the success of any individual in making soups if the instructions recommended be not strictly followed. The following rule should be therefore punctually attended to.]
All clear soups ought not to be too strong of meat, and must be of a light brown sherry or straw colour. All white or brown thick soups should be rather thin, with just sufficient consistency to adhere lightly to a spoon when hot; soups of fish, poultry, or game especially. All purees, no matter whether of meat or vegetables, require to be somewhat thicker, which may be ascertained by its adhering more thickly to the spoon. Every Italian soup must be very clear, rather stronger of meat, and the colour of pale sherry.
By following the few foregoing observations, experience will teach you volumes; for as there is a great difference in the quality of different materials, (flour, for instance, which, if strong, would tend to thicken, but if weak, actually almost turns to water by boiling,) therefore your judgment, with the above few important remarks, will make you more perfect than the most precise quantities of weights and measurements upon that important point.
190. CLEAR VEGETABLE SOUP— Peel a middling sized carrot and turnip, which cut first into slices, then into small square pieces about the size of dice; peel also eighteen button onions; wash the whole in cold water and drain them upon a sieve; when dry put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; set them upon a very sharp fire for ten minutes, tossing them over every now and then until the vegetables become covered with a thin shiny glaze, which may take rather more than the before-mentioned time; care, however, must be taken, for should you let them get brown, the flavour of the soup would be spoiled; whilst, upon the other hand, if put in whilst surrounded with a whitish liquid, your soup would look white and unsightly. With a little attention, however, success is certain; and, once accomplished, there would be no difficulty in making any vegetable soups or sauces, therefore it is very desirable to know how to do it properly. When done, pour two quarts of clear broth over them, set it upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling, place it at the corner to simmer, until the vegetables are quite tender, (the onions especially,) carefully skimming off all the butter as it rises to the surface; it will require about half an hour's simmering, and there should be half a pound of vegetables to two quarts of stock; taste if properly seasoned, which it ought to be with the above proportions, but use your own judgment accordingly.
The only difference to be made in these descriptions of soup is in the way the vegetables are cut; cutters for the purpose may be purchased at any brazier's shop, either in London or the country, at a trifling expense.
191. PRINTANIÈRE SOUP.—Cut a small quantity of vegetables, as in the last, but rather less carrot and turnip, introducing a little celery, leek, and young spring onions, instead of the button onions; proceed exactly as before, but ten minutes before taking it from the fire, wash a few leaves of sorrel, which cut small and put into the soup, with six sprigs of chervil; in summer, a few fresh boiled peas or French beans served in it is an improvement.
In whatever shape you may cut the vegetables for soup, always be cautious not to cut some pieces larger than others, and the whole of them rather small than large; for if some pieces should be small and others large, the smaller pieces would be quite in puree, whilst the larger ones would still be quite hard, which would cause your soup not only to eat badly, but give it an unsightly appearance, for the vegetable boiled to a puree would make the soup thick. The above remark, although simple, is still very important.
192. JULIENNE SOUP.—This soup is entirely the hereditary property of France, and is supposed to be so called from the months of June and July, when all vegetables are in full season; and to make it in reality as originally made, a small quantity of every description of vegetables should be used, including lettuce, sorrel, and tarragon; however, some few sorts of vegetables, mixed together, make a most estimable soup. Weigh half a pound of the vegetables in fair proportions to each other; that is, carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and leeks, which cut into small fillets an inch in length, and of the thickness of a trussing-needle; when done, wash dry, and pass them in butter and sugar as before, add two quarts of clear soup, adding, just before it is done, a little sorrel, cabbage-lettuce, and chervil or peas, if handy, but it will be excellent without either.
193. CLEAR TURNIP SOUP.—Cut, with a round vegetable scoop, about forty pieces of turnip, of the shape and size of small marbles, which put into a stewpan, with sugar and butter as before, but fry them of a light brownish colour, add two quarts of broth, and finish the soup as in the previous receipts. A tablespoonful of Italian paste, previously half boiled in water, then drained and finished in the soup, is also an improvement.
194. CLEAR ARTICHOKE SOUP.—Peel twelve Jerusalem artichokes, which well wash, then cut as many round scoops as possible, the same as in the last, proceeding exactly the same. The remainder of either turnips, artichokes, or carrots, may be boiled, and mashed with a little butter, pepper, and salt, and served as a vegetable, or reserved to make a soup puree; the remains of other vegetables from the previous soups should also be reserved for flavouring of stock, instead of using the fresh vegetables.
195. VERMICELLI.—Put a quart of clear stock into a stewpan upon the fire, and when boiling, add two ounces of vermicelli; boil gently ten minutes, and it is ready to serve.
196. ITALIAN PASTE.—Procure some small Italian paste, in stars, rings, or any other shape, but small; put on a quart of stock, and when boiling, add two ounces of the paste; boil twenty minutes, or rather more, when it is ready to serve.
197. SEMOULINA.—Take one quart of stock, and when boiling add two tablespoonfuls of semoulina; boil twenty minutes, and it is then done. Proceed the same also with tapioca and sago.
198. MACARONI.—Boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni in a quart of water for ten minutes, then strain it off, and throw it into two quarts of boiling stock; let simmer gently for half an hour, when serve with grated cheese, upon a plate separately.
199. RICE.—Well wash two ounces of the best Patna rice, strain off the water, put the rice into a stewpan, with a quart of cold stock, place it upon the fire, and let simmer about half an hour, until the rice is very tender, but not in pulp.
200. MUTTON BROTH.—Any description of trimmings of mutton may be used for broth, but the scrag ends of the neck are usually chosen. Put two scrags into a stewpan (having previously jointed the bones), with three onions, three turnips, and one carrot; fill up the stewpan with a gallon of water, and place it upon the fire; when boiling, set it at the corner, where let it simmer for three hours, keeping it well skimmed; then cut a small carrot, two turnips, an onion, with a little leek and celery, into small square pieces, which put into another stewpan, with a wineglassful of pearl-barley; skim every particle of fat from the broth, which pour through a hair sieve over them; let the whole boil gently at the corner of the fire until the barley is tender, when it is ready to serve; the meat may be trimmed into neat pieces and served with the broth, or separately with melted butter and parsley, or onion sauce. Half or even a quarter of the above quantity can be made by reducing the ingredients in proportion.
201. IRISH SOUP MADE OF MUTTON BROTH. —This soup is made similar to the last, adding ten or twelve small mealy potatoes cut into large dice, omitting the other vegetables, which being boiled to a puree thicken the broth; just before serving, throw in twenty heads of parsley, and at the same time add a few flowers of marigold, which will really give it a very pleasing flavour.
202. SCOTCH COCK-A-LEEKIE.—Trim two or three bunches of fine winter leeks, cutting off the roots and part of the heads, then split each in halves lengthwise, and each half into three, which wash well in two or three waters, then put them into a stewpan, with a stock previously made as directed (No. 184), and a fowl trussed as for boiling; let the whole simmer very gently at the corner of the fire for three hours, keeping it well skimmed, seasoning a little if required; half an hour before serving add two dozen French plums, without breaking them; when ready to serve, take out the fowl, which cut into neat pieces, place them in a tureen, and pour the leeks and broth over, the leeks being then partly in puree; if too thick, however, add a drop more broth or water. Should the leeks happen to be old and strong, it would be better to blanch them five minutes in a gallon of boiling water previous to putting them in the stock.
Although an old cock is usually procured in Scotland for the above purpose, I prefer a young fowl; but should an old one be most handy, stew it a long time in the stock before passing it. This soup will keep good several days, and would improve by warming a second time.
203. OX-TAIL SOUP.—Cut up two ox-tails, separating them at the joints, put a small piece of butter at the bottom of a stewpan, then put in the ox-tails, with a carrot, a turnip, three onions, a head of celery, a leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; add half a pint of water, and twelve grains of whole pepper, set over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a thickish brown glaze, then add a quarter of a pound of flour, stir it well in, and fill up the stewpan with three quarts of water, add a table spoonful of salt, and stir occasionally until boiling; then set it upon the corner of the stove, skim well, add a gill of good brown gravy, or a few drops of browning, and let simmer until the tails are stewed very tender, the flesh coming easily from the bones, then take them out immediately, and put them into your tureen; pass the soup through a hair sieve over them, add a head of celery, previously cut small, and boiled in a little stock, if approved of, and serve.
Ox-tail soup may also be made clear by omitting the flour, and serving with vegetables, as directed for the clear vegetable soup (No. 190).
204. OX-CHEEK SOUP.—Blanch in boiling water two ox-cheeks, cut off the beard, take away all the bone, which chop up, and cut the flesh into middling-sized pieces, leaving the cheek-part whole; put all together into a stewpan, with six quarts of water, a tablespoonful of salt, ten peppercorns, two carrots, two turnips, one leek, one head of celery, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; let it stew at the corner of the fire six hours, keeping it well skimmed, then take out the fleshy part of the cheeks, and pass the broth through a hair sieve into another stewpan; mix a quarter of a pound of flour with a pint of cold water, which pour into it, and stir over the fire until boiling, when place it at the corner (adding two heads of celery, cut very fine, and a glass of sherry); when the celery is tender, cut the meat into small square pieces, keep them warm in the tureen, and when the soup is ready, pour over, and serve; give it a nice colour with browning.
Sheep's or lamb's heads also make very good song by following the above receipt, and adding two pounds of veal, mutton, or beef to the stock; two heads would be sufficient, and they would not require so long to stew.
205. WHITE MOCK-TURTLE SOUP. —Procure half a calf's head (scalded, not skinned), bone it, cut up a knuckle of veal, also the boned head, which put into a stewpan, well buttered at the bottom, with half a pound of lean ham, an ounce of salt, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, a head of celery, a leek, a bunch of parsley, and a bay-leaf, add half a pint of water; set it upon the fire, moving it round occasionally, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze; then add six quarts of water, and 'put in the half head, let simmer upon the corner of the fire for two hours and a half, or until the head is tender, then take it out, and press it between two dishes, and pass the stock through a hair sieve into a basin; then in another stewpan have a quarter of a pound of butter, with a sprig of thyme, basil, marjoram, and bay-leaf, let the butter get quite hot, then add six ounces of flour to form a roux, stir over the sharp fire a few minutes, keeping it quite white; stand it off the fire to cool, then add the stock, stir over the fire until boiling, then stand it at the corner, skim off all the fat, and pass it through a hair sieve into another stewpan; cut the head into pieces an inch square, but not too thick, and put them into the soup, which season with a little cayenne pepper; when the pieces are hot, add a gill of cream, and pour it into your tureen.
The above quantity would make two tureens of soup, and will keep good several days, but of course half the quantity could be made.
206. BROWN MOCK-TURTLE.—Proceed the same as in the last article, only colouring the stock by drawing it down to a brown glaze, likewise adding half a pint of brown gravy (No. 186), omitting the cream, and adding two glasses of sherry. If no gravy, use browning, and make a brown roux instead of a white one.
207. MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.—Cut up a small knuckle of veal, which put into a stewpan, with a piece of butter, half a pound of lean ham, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, and six apples, add half a pint of water; set the stewpan over a sharp fire, moving the meat round occasionally, let remain until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a brownish glaze, then add three tablespoonfuls of curry powder, one of curry paste, and half a pound of flour, stir well in, and fill the stewpan with a gallon of water; add a spoonful of salt, the half of one of sugar, when boiling, place it at the corner of the fire, and let it simmer two hours and a half, skimming off all the fat as it rises, then pass it through a tammy into a tureen; trim some of the pieces of veal, and put it back in the stewpan to boil, and serve with plain boiled rice separate. Oxtails or pieces of rabbits, chickens, &c, left from a previous dinner, may be served in it instead of the veal. The veal is exceedingly good to eat Taste, before serving, if quite palatable.
208. GIBLET SOUP.—Clean two sets of giblets, which soak for two hours, cut them into equal sizes, and put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, four pounds of veal or beef, half a pound of ham, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, two ounces of salt, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves; place the stewpan over a sharp fire, stirring the meat round occasionally; when the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a light glaze, add a quarter of a pound of flour, stir well in, and fill up with a gallon of water; add about a pint of brown gravy (No. 186), stir occasionally until boiling, then set it at the corner of the stove to simmer, keeping it well skimmed; when the giblets are tender, take them out, put them into your tureen, pass the soup through a hair sieve over, and serve; twenty cooked button onions, or any small shaped vegetables served in it, are very good, as is also a glass of port wine.
209. OYSTER SOUP.—Put four dozen of oysters into a stewpan with their liquor, place upon the fire; when upon the point of boiling, drain them upon a sieve, catching the liquor in a basin; take off the beards, which put into the liquor, and the oysters into a soup tureen; then put a quarter of a pound of butter into another stewpan over the fire, and when melted add six ounces of flour, stir over a slow fire for a short time, but keeping it quite white; let it cool, then add the liquor and beards of the oysters, a quart of milk, and two quarts of stock (No. 184), stir over the fire until boiling, then season with a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, five peppercorns, half a blade of mace, a tablespoonful of Harvey sauce,half ditto of essence of anchovies; let boil quickly at the corner for ten minutes, skim it well, add a gill of cream, if handy, strain through a hair sieve over the oysters, and serve.
210. THE FISHERMAN'S SOUP.—Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, and when melted add six ounces of flour, stir well together over a slow fire a few minutes; when cool, add one quart of milk, and two quarts of stock (No. 184), stir over a fire until boiling; having previously filleted two soles, add the bones and trimmings to the soup, with four cloves, one blade of mace, two bay-leaves, one spoonful of essence of anchovies, one ditto of Harvey sauce, half a saltspoonful of cayenne, a little sugar and salt if required; let the whole boil quickly at the corner for ten minutes, keeping it well skimmed; cut each fillet of sole into six pieces, put them into another stewpan, with half a handful of picked parsley, pass the soup through a hair sieve over, boil again ten minutes, add a gill of cream, if possible, and it is ready to serve. Fillets of brill may be used instead of soles.
211. AUTUMN SOUP.—Cut up four cabbage-lettuces one cos ditto, a handful of sorrel, and a little tarragon and chervil, when well washed and drained put them into a stewpan, with two cucumbers finely sliced, and four ounces of butter, place them over a brisk fire, stirring occasionally until very little liquid remains, then add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring it well in, then pour over three quarts of stock, made as directed (No. 184), adding a quart of young and fresh green peas; half an hour's boiling will suffice for this delicious soup, and the flavour of the vegetables will be fully preserved; season with a teaspoonful of salt, and two of sugar.
212. HODGE-PODGE.—Cut two pounds of fresh scrag of mutton into small pieces, which put into a stewpan, with three quarts of cold water and a tablespoonful of salt, set it upon the fire, and when boiling place it at the corner to simmer, keeping it well skimmed; let it simmer an hour, then add a good-sized carrots, two turnips, two large onions cut into small dice, and six cabbage-lettuces, if in season (the whole well washed), and let simmer until quite tender; skim off all the fat, and serve either with the meat in the soup or separately. If in season, a pint of green peas boiled in the soup is a great improvement.
213. FRENCH CABBAGE SOUP— This is a soup very much in vogue amongst the middle classes of the French people. Having tasted some at Boulogne, I could not resist the idea of making it in England, which was pronounced excellent; it is very economical, and may satisfy a numerous family at a trifling expense. Put a gallon of water into a saucepan, with two pounds of streaky pickled pork or bacon, whichever most convenient, to which add a couple of pounds of white cabbage, cut in strips (using every part but the stalk, and previously well washed), two large onions, a carrot, a turnip, and a head of celery; let the whole boil three or four hours, until the pork is tender, skimming off all the fat, season with a little black pepper, brown sugar, and salt, if required (which is not very frequently the case, the pork or bacon generally being sufficiently so), lay slices of bread in your tureen (about one pound), pour the soup over; keep the tureen covered ten minutes, until the bread is soaked, and it is ready to serve. The pork or bacon may be either served separate or cut into small square pieces, and served in the soup. A few mealy potatoes are sometimes introduced, or a quart of large green peas, or a pint of dry split peas. You must observe that vegetables in France are much more used than in this country, as there are but few poor people there who do not possess a little garden, in which they grow their own.
It is also frequently made maigre by omitting the pork or bacon, adding more vegetables of all kinds, and a quarter of a pound of butter, and frequently where they have nothing else but cabbage, they make it only of that: now, setting all national feeling aside respecting the poverty of their meals, I have known strong healthy men make a hearty meal of it, preferring it to meat, of which they scarcely ever partake.
214. PURÉE OF VEGETABLE SOUP.—Peel and cut up very finely three onions, three turnips, one carrot, and four potatoes, which put into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean ham or bacon, and a bunch of parsley; pass them ten minutes over a sharp fire, then add a good spoonful of flour, which mix well in, add two quarts of stock, and a pint of boiling milk; stir it until boiling; season with a little salt and sugar, rub it through a tammy, put it into another stewpan, boil again, skim, and serve with croutons of fried bread, as for Palestine Soup. It ought to be thickish, but not too much so.
215. PALESTINE SOUP, or PURÉE OF ARTICHOKES.—Have a quarter of a pound of lean bacon or ham, as also an onion, a turnip, and a little celery, cut the whole into small thin slices, and put them into a stewpan, with four ounces of butter; place them over a sharp fire, keeping them stirred, about twenty minutes, or until forming a whitish glaze at the bottom; then have ready washed, peeled, and cut into thin slices, about twelve artichokes, which put into the stewpan with a pint of broth or water, and stew until quite tender, then mix in two tablespoonfuls of flour quite smoothly, add two quarts of stock made as directed (No. 184), and half a pint of milk; keep it constantly stirred until boiling; season with a teaspoonful of salt, and two of sugar, then rub it through a tammy, place it again in a stewpan; let it boil five minutes, keeping it well skimmed, and serve with very small croutons of bread (fried in butter, and dried upon a cloth) in the tureen; a gill of cream, stirred in at the moment of serving, is a great improvement, although it may be omitted.
216. PURÉE OF CAULIFLOWER SOUP.—Proceed as described for the puree of artichokes, but omitting the artichokes, and substituting four middling-sized cauliflowers, previously boiled and chopped fine.
217. PURÉE OF TURNIP SOUP is likewise made in the same manner as a puree of artichokes, substituting twelve young turnips for artichokes and adding half a tablespoonful more of flour.
218. CRECY À LA REINE, or PURÉE of WHITE CARROT.—Procure six large white Belgian carrots, scrape them, and then cut into very thin slices; put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean bacon or ham, a large onion and turnip, and a very white head of celery, all cut into thin slices, and proceed as for Palestine Soup, No. 215.
219. CRECY SOUP, or PURÉE OF CARROTS.—Procure five or six large carrots, as red as possible, which well scrape, then shave them into very thin slices, taking off all the exterior red, but not using the centre, then peel and slice a large onion, a turnip, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, a few sprigs of parsley, and two bay-leaves; put them into a stewpan, with four ounces of butter, fry the whole of a light yellowish colour, then add the carrots, with a pint of water, and let them stew until perfectly tender, mix in two ounces of flour quite smoothly, and add five pints of stock (No. 184); season with a little salt and sugar, and stir upon the fire until boiling, a quarter of an hour, when pass it through a tammy, and finish and serve as in the preceding; no cream, however, must be added. This soup ought to be of a red colour. Boiled rice or fried croutons may be served in it. It must be very smooth, and not too thick.
220. GREEN PEA SOUP.—Put two quarts of green peas into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, cut into small dice, two onions in slices, and a few sprigs of parsley; add a quart of cold water, and with the hands rub all well together; then pour off the water, cover the stewpan close, and stand it over a sharp fire, stirring the contents round occasionally; when very tender, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, which mix well in mashing the peas with your spoon against the sides of the stewpan, add two quarts of stock, or broth from the Pot-au-feu, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a little pepper and salt, if required; boil all well together five minutes, when rub it through a tammy or hair sieve; then put it into another stewpan, with a pint of boiling milk; boil five minutes, skim well, and pour it into your tureen. It must not be too thick; serve with croutons of bread as for Palestine.
221. WINTER PEA SOUP.—Wash a quart of split peas, which put into a stewpan, with half a pound of streaked bacon, two onions in slices, two pounds of veal or beef, cut into small pieces, and a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; add a gallon of water, with a little salt and sugar, place it upon the fire, and when boiling, stand it at the side until the peas are boiled to a puree, and the water has reduced to half; then take" out the meat, which put upon a dish, to be eaten with the bacon, keeping it hot, rub the soup through a hair sieve or tammy, put it into another stewpan, and when boiling, serve. The meat may also be served in the tureen if approved of. Maigre pea-soup may also be made by omitting the meat, adding half a pound of butter, one quart of milk, and omitting a quart of water.
222. LENTIL SOUP.—Cut three onions, a turnip, and the half of a carrot, into very thin slices, which put into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a few sprigs of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and two bay-leaves, add also one pound of leg of beef, cut into small dice; set the stewpan upon the fire, stirring with a wooden spoon, until its contents are fried rather brown, when add one quart of lentils, and three quarts of water; let the whole simmer until the lentils are very tender, when season with nearly an ounce of salt, and half that quantity of sugar; it is then ready to serve.
To make a puree of lentils:—when the soup is made, strain off the broth, add a good spoonful of flour to the lentils, which mash with a wooden spoon against the side of the stewpan; then again put in the broth, boil all up together, keeping it stirred with a spoon; rub it through a tammy or hair sieve, again boil and skim, and it is ready; serve with a few croutons of bread, as directed for Palestine Soup.
223. MAIGRE SOUP.—Cut two onions into very small dice, and put them into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter; fry them a short time, but not to discolour them; have ready three or four handfuls of well-washed sorrel, which cut into ribands and put into the stewpan with the onions, add one tablespoonful of flour, then mix well, then add a pint of milk and a quart of water; boil altogether twenty minutes, keeping it stirred; season with a teaspoonful of sugar and salt, take it from the fire, and stir in quickly a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream or milk (it must not boil afterwards), put the crust of a French roll, cut into strips, in the tureen, pour the soup over, and serve very hot.
224. ONION SOUP MAIGRE.—Peel and cut six large onions into small slices, put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, place them over the fire until well fried, when well mix in a tablespoonful of flour, and rather better than two quarts of water; boil until the onions are quite tender, season with half a spoonful of salt and a little pepper and sugar; finish with a liaison, and serve as in the last.
225. HARE SOUP.—Put half a pound of butter into a stewpan, and, when melted, add three quarters of a pound of flour, and half a pound of streaked bacon, cut into very small pieces; keep stirring over the fire until becoming lightly browned. You have previously cut up a hare into neat smallish pieces; put them into the stewpan, and keep stirring round over the fire until they are set; then fill it up with five quarts of water; add two onions, a head of celery, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, a blade of mace, and four cloves; when boiling, season with one ounce of salt, and a little pepper, and let it simmer at the corner until the pieces of hare are done, which would be in about an hour if a young hare, but double that time if a very old one; the better plan is to try a piece occasionally. When done, take out the best pieces, and the meat of the inferior ones pound in a mortar, remove the bones, put it back in the soup, and pass all through a tammy, put it again into a stewpan, boil for ten minutes, and serve. The above quantity would be sufficient for two tureens. A glass of port or sherry wine may be added. Rabbit, pheasant, grouse, partridge, and other game soups, may be made in the same way.
226. SEMOULINA GELATINEUSE. — Take four pounds of veal, half-a-pound of gammon of bacon, which cut into small pieces, one calf's foot, two carrots, two onions, two leeks, one head of celery; cut small, and place in a stewpan, set over the fire; stir until a white glaze is formed at the bottom of the pan, then fill up with four quarts of water; simmer gently for four hours on the corner of the stove; skim off the fat; strain into another stewpan, which set on the fire again to boil; then put two ounces of semoulina into a basin, one ounce of flour; moisten both with half a pint of milk, stirring with a wooden spoon; pour in the broth, and stir well; season with a teaspoonful of salt, half a one of sugar; boil slowly twenty minutes; it is then ready, and very strengthening for weak constitutions. The addition of a few sprigs of fresh parsley, or two of thyme, or bay-leaf, varies agreeably the taste. It is also very good cold in summer.
227. JENNY LIND'S SOUP—This is the soup invented and often partaken of by the celebrated cantatrice of the name it bears, who partook of it every day when on a visit to the talented authoress, Mrs. Anna Maria Hall, who was kind enough to forward it to me for this edition. I consider it light and digestive.
Make about three quarts of stock, the same as No. 184, which strain through a fine sieve into a middle-size stewpan; set it to boil; add to it three ounces of sago; boil gently twenty minutes; skim; just previous to serving break four fresh eggs, and place the yolk, entirely free from the white, into a basin, beat them well with a spoon; add to it a gill of cream; take the pan from the fire, pour in the yolks, stir quickly for one minute, serve immediately; do not let it boil, or it will curdle, and would not be fit to be partaken of. The stock being previously seasoned, it only requires the addition of half a teaspoonful of sugar, a little more salt, pepper, nutmeg; also thyme, parsley, and bay-leaf will agreeably vary the flavour without interfering with the quality.
228. FRENCH POT-AU-FEU.—Out of this earthen pot comes the favourite soup and bouilli, which has been everlastingly famed as having been the support of several generations of all classes of society in France; from the opulent to the poorest individuals, all pay tribute to its excellence and worth. In fact, this soup and bouilli is to the French what the roast beef and plum-pudding are on a Sunday to the English. No dinner in France is served without soup, and no good soup is supposed to be made without the pot-au-feu. The following is the receipt:—
Put in the pot-au-feu six pounds of beef, four quarts of water, set near the fire, skim; when nearly boiling, add a spoonful and a half of salt, half a pound of liver, two carrots, four turnips, eight young or two old leeks, one head of celery, two onions and one burnt, with a clove in each, and a piece of parsnip, skim again, and let simmer four or five hours, adding a little cold water now and then; take off part of the fat; put slices of bread into the tureen, lay half the vegetables over, and half the broth, and serve the meat separately with the vegetables around. The remains of the broth from the pot-au-feu may be used for any kind of soup instead of the stock, (No. 184.) The best part of the beef for the pot-au-feu is the mouse-buttock, tops of the ribs, clod and stickings. 228.* CONGER EEL SOUP.—An immense consumption of this fish now takes place in Paris amongst the lower orders, but not generally converted into soup; but I do not doubt but what the following receipt will find some amateurs.
Take four pounds of eels, well washed and skimmed, cut into slices of the size of a five-shilling piece, and half an inch thick; put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of butter, melt it, add the pieces, and season with a tablespoonful of salt, a quarter of an ounce of pepper, half an ounce of sugar, two onions chopped fine, a little parsley, a bay-leaf, half a pint of water; cover the pan, set it on a slow fire for about half an hour, without stirring it, then mix two ounces of flour with two pints of water, pour over the fish, let it simmer for twenty minutes, stir the stewpan gently, do not break the fish in taking it out. More or less seasoning may be added, according to taste. This soup, carefully made as above, is very inviting, and though meagre, very nutritive.
228.** ANOTHER CONGER EEL SOUR—Get six pounds of eels, which skin and bone, save about two pounds of the best part to cut in thin slices, which put by until wanted, cut the rest into pieces, with a pound of lean veal, beef, or lamb, and a quarter of a pound of lean bacon; put in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter; two onions cut in thin slices, a little carrot, celery, one bay-leaf, two sprigs of thyme, four cloves, one ounce of salt, and half an ounce of pepper, set it on a quick fire, stir with a wooden spoon continually, until a white glaze is formed at the bottom of the stewpan, add three quarts of water, let it simmer two hours, skim, pass through a sieve into a basin, take a clean saucepan, and put in a quarter of a pound of butter, three tablespoonfuls of flour, place on the fire, and stir until forming a white roux, let it cool a few minutes, pour the stock in, boil for twenty minutes, keep stirring, then place the pieces of eel in it and fifty leaves of fresh parsley, let it simmer till tender, and serve. The addition of a little Harvey or anchovy sauce will vary the flavour.
Notes: