Alexis Soyer's Part 18: Baked and Boiled Puddings
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PUDDINGS IN MOULDS.
We have already, in the Comforts for Invalids, given several of the most simple receipts. I prefer using, in these kinds of puddings, as the principal ingredient, stale Savoy cake, or sponge cakes, or ladies' fingers, and, if I cannot get them, crumbs of stale bread; they may be made in a hundred different ways, according to the fancy and taste of the cook; the mould should be buttered and papered; they may be either baked or steamed.
There is hardly any of our sex, from childhood to old age, but loves this truly English mixture, which appears upon bur tables in a hundred different shapes, but always under the same name; and I should riot fancy my labours complete if I did not produce a new one of my own invention; I therefore beg you to accept the dedication, as I intend to call it—
820. PUDDING À LA ELOISE.—It is made as follows: Take half a pound of bread-crumbs, which put in a basin, with two ounces of sago, six ounces of chopped suet, six eggs, five ounces of moist sugar, and a tablespoonful of either orange, lemon, or apricot marmalade; mix all well together, and ornament the bottom of the mould with green angelica in syrup, and Smyrna raisins, and fill up with the mixture. Place the mould in a stewpan containing water to half the height of the mould, and boil gently for two hours; remove it from the mould, and serve with a sauce made of a tablespoonful of either of the marmalades, or of currant or apple jelly and two glasses of sherry poured over. This, I assure you, received great praise from the little party of juveniles that I had the other day.
821. PUDDING À LA REINE.—Butter and paper the mould, fill up with cake or bread-crumbs, when full pour some custard in until it will hold no more; this may be flavoured with any white liquor or essence you please, for instance, citron (then it is called Pudding a la Reine an Citron) or orange; use peel thinly sliced, and so on for any flavour you may give it. Steam or bake for thirty minutes.
822. MINCE-MEAT PUDDING.—Butter and paper the mould, then put a layer of cake and a layer of mince-meat alternately, till full, then add the custard. Bake for thirty-five minutes.
823. DEMI-PLUM PUDDING.—Prepare the mould, then add a layer of plum pudding, broken in pieces, that has been left from the previous day, alternately, till full, fill up with custard, and steam or bake for thirty minutes. The remains of any kind of pudding may be used thus.
824. TRIFLE PUDDING.—Prepare the mould and fill with the same ingredients as directed for trifle, taking care that the wine, &c, is well soaked in before adding the custard. Steam or bake thirty minutes. The sides and tops of these puddings may be ornamented with cut angelica, hops, or candied orange or lemon peel, in any fanciful design you please, and they may be served with any kind of wine sauce.
825. CARROT PUDDING.—Mix in a bowl half a pound of flour, half a pound of chopped suet, three quarters of a pound of grated carrot, a quarter of a pound of raisins stoned, a quarter of a pound of currants, and a quarter of a pound of sugar, brown or sifted white; place these in a mould or dish, beat up two whole eggs, the yolks of four in a gill of milk, grate a little nutmeg in it, and add it to the former; bake or steam forty-five minutes.
826. COLLEGE PUDDING, or DUMPLING.—Take two handfuls of bread-crumbs, half a pound of currants, half a pound of beef marrow, or suet, chopped fine, three whole eggs, a little nutmeg and salt, moisten with a little milk and brandy, then roll them up in the shape of an egg, in eggs and bread-crumbs, fry them in clarified fat, serve them on a napkin with wine sauce in a boat. If required in moulds, dilute the mixture with a little more milk, and steam them thirty minutes.
827. BROWN BREAD PUDDING—Brown bread cut in slices and baked in the oven until crisp, then powder it, pass it through a sieve, and soak it with two spoonfuls of rum and brandy; then make a mixture well worked with six yolks of eggs; then add the bread the same as flour, and the whites well whipped, seasoned with a small quantity of cinnamon and cloves, pounded, and citron cut in slices. The mould well buttered, and bread-crumbed, and baked or steamed for one hour. For the sauce, a little port-wine, currants, almonds, and citrons cut in slices.
828. BROWN BREAD PUDDING ANOTHER WAY. —Take two ounces of pounded almonds, mix it with seven yolks of egg flavoured with a little ground spice, add to it four tablespoonfuls of brown bread-crumbs soaked in brandy, butter and bread-crumb the mould; when ready, add the whites of eggs, well beaten, to the mixture, and bake in a slow oven for an hour and a half—on a trivet, if the oven is two hot; the same sauce as above.
829. PRESERVED GINGER PUDDING. — Take six ounces of butter, to which add six ounces of flour, and stir it over a slow fire; have a pint and a half of boiling milk, which mix gradually with the above over the fire, then add the yolks of six eggs and half a pound of preserved ginger, cut fine, whip the whites well, and add them the last thing, place in a mould, and steam for an hour and a half; serve custard sauce with it.
BOILED PUDDINGS.
The principal one, and the most celebrated, is the plum pudding.
830. PLUM PUDDING—Pick and stone one pound of the best Malaga raisins, which put in a basin, with one pound of currants (well washed, dried and picked), a pound and a half of good beef suet (chopped, but not too fine), three quarters of a pound of white or brown sugar, two ounces of candied lemon and orange-peel, two ounces of candied citron, six ounces of flour, and a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, with a little grated nutmeg; mix the whole well together, with eight whole eggs and a little milk; have ready a plain or ornamented pudding-mould, well butter the interior, pour the above mixture into it, cover a sheet of paper over, tie the mould in a cloth, put the pudding into a large stewpan containing boiling water, and let boil quite fast for four hours and a half (or it may be boiled by merely tying it in a pudding-cloth previously well floured, forming the shape by laying the cloth in a round-bottomed basin and pouring the mixture in, it will make no difference in the time required for boiling); when done, take out of the cloth, turn from the mould upon your dish, sprinkle a little powdered sugar over, and serve with the following sauce in a boat:—Put the yolks of three eggs in a stewpan, with a spoonful of powdered sugar, and a gill of milk; mix well together, add a little lemon-peel, and stir over the fire until becoming thickish (but do not let it boil), when add two glasses of brandy, and serve separate.
The above sauce may be served poured over the pudding, if approved of.
An excellent improvement to a plum pudding is to use half a pound of beef marrow cut into small dice, omitting the same quantity of suet.
831. ROWLEY POWLEY.—Roll out about two pounds of paste (No. 746), cover it with any jam or marmalade you like, roll it over and tie it loose in a cloth, well tying each end; boil one hour and serve, or cut it in slices and serve with sauce over.
832. PLUM BOLSTER, OR SPOTTED DICK.—Roll out two pounds of paste (No. 746), have some Smyrna raisins well washed, and place them on it here and there, roll over, tie in a cloth, and boil one hour, and serve with butter and brown sugar.
833. PLAIN BOLSTER.—Roll as above, sift some white or brown sugar over it; the addition of a little powdered cinnamon to the sugar is an improvement; roll over and proceed as before.
834. APPLE DUMPLINGS Peel and cut out the core with a cutter, cover it with paste (No. 746), tie in a cloth, and boil according to size; these are all the better for being boiled and kept in the cloth, hung up for four or six weeks, and rewarmed. They may likewise be baked. These kind of boiled puddings, containing a large quantity of paste, should be made with flour, in which is mixed one saltspoonful of culinary alkali powder to four pounds of flour, which will cause them to be much lighter.
BAKED PUDDINGS.
835. MARROW PUDDING may be made in various ways; it is best with half a pound of ladies' finger cakes, and a quarter of a pound of beef marrow, chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of currants well cleaned, half an ounce of candied lemon-peel, a little nutmeg, a tablespoonful of powdered sugar, a saltspoonful of salt, and half a wineglassful of wine or brandy; put these on a dish, and fill up with custard, having previously put a border of paste on the rim; about half an hour will bake it.
836. CUSTARD PUDDING.—Make a border of paste on the dish, and fill up with custard, grate a little nutmeg on the top.
Any kind of fruit puddings with custard may be made in the same way, by placing them in the custard, and sift some finely-powdered sugar over, before going to the baker's.
837. FRUIT PUDDINGS are best made in a basin, the basin to be buttered and lined with the paste, and then filled with the fruit, which cover with the paste; the paste should be rolled round to the thickness of half an inch, and when the fruit is in, drawn to the centre, and squeezed, and then tied up in a cloth kept on purpose, and boiled in plenty of water; when done, which will be according to the nature of the fruit you put in it, serve it either turned out of the basin or not. The cover should be of the same thickness as the sides. Sugar should be added before being covered.
838. COCOA-NUT PUDDING.—Remove the shell of the cocoa-nut and cut the brown skin away, cut the nut in pieces and place it in cold water, remove it and wipe it dry, grate about a quarter of a pound of a large one, very fine, into a plate. Place in a basin a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar, and three ounces and a half of fresh butter, stir them together until it becomes like cream; add to it a tablespoonful of brandy, and about four drops of either essence of vanille, or any other essence whose flavour may be preferred. Place the white of six eggs into a bowl, and beat them well up; then add gradually the butter and sugar, which keep stirring at the same time; add by degrees the cocoa-nut. Cover a pie-dish with puff paste, place the mixture in it, and bake in a moderate oven for about half an hour. Glaze it with powdered sugar and powdered cinnamon mixed.
839. APPLES should be pared, cored, and cut in quarters, and put in with some sugar, a few cloves, and a bit of lemon-peel.
840. WALL FRUIT—as Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, and Plums,—should be cut in half, and the kernels extracted from the stones and added, a little cream, according to the size of the pudding, in which a little grated cinnamon is added, may be put in at the same time as the fruit; use but little sugar.
841. GOOSEBERRY, Rhubarb, Currants, red, white, and black, Raspberry and Cherry, Blackberry, Whorts, Damson, and Greengage—may all be made in a similar way.
842. MINCE MEAT.—Procure four pounds and a half of kidney beef suet, which skin and chop very finely; have also a quarter of a pound of candied lemon and orange-peel; the same of citron, a pound and a half of lean cooked beef, and three pounds and a half of apples, the whole separately chopped very fine, and put into a large pan with four pounds and a half of currants, well washed and picked, two ounces of mixed spice, and two pounds of sugar; mix the whole well together with the juice of eight lemons and a pint of brandy, place it in jars, and tie down until ready for use; a pound and a half of Malaga raisins, well stoned and chopped, may likewise be added to the above. It is ready for use in a few days.
The mince meat as made at Windsor Castle every year, and made one month previous to using, is as follows: 240lbs. raisins; 400lbs. currants; 200lbs. lump sugar; 3lbs. cinnamon; 3lbs. nutmegs; 3lbs. cloves; 3lbs. ground allspice; 2lbs. ginger; 300lbs. beef; 350lbs. suet; 24 bushels of apples; 240 lemons; 30lbs. of cedret; 72 bottles of brandy; 3lbs. mace; 60lbs. lemon-peel; 60lbs. orange-peel.
843. MINCE PIES.—Have a piece of puff-paste, which roll out to the thickness of a penny piece; have also a dozen tartlet-pans, which lightly butter, cut out twelve pieces with a round cutter from the paste, each the size of your tartlet-pans; lay them upon the slab, roll the trimming of the paste again to the former thickness, cut twelve other pieces, with which line the tartlet-pans; put a piece of mince-meat, made as above, in each, wet them round, place on the lids, pricking a hole with a pin in the centre, and close them well at the edges; egg over lightly, and bake about twenty minutes in a moderate oven.
844. FRUIT PIES.—These are made in pie dishes, the top of which is only covered with paste; the edge of the dish should be wetted, and a strip of paste, about one inch wide and a quarter of an inch thick, put on it, then fill the dish with the fruit, wet the paste on the edge, and cover with paste, mark the edge with a roller, or the back of a knife.
845. APPLE PIE.—Pare, cut, and core sufficient apples to fill the dish, put a small cup in the middle or not, as you like, one clove to every three apples, a pinch of pounded cinnamon, a small piece of chopped lemon-peel, and sugar; bake according to size.
846. RHUBARB AND APPLE, or Rhubarb and Gooseberry, Currant and Raspberry, Cherry, Plum, Damson, Pear, Quince, Mulberry, Worthberry, or Whorts and Raspberry, Dewberry and Raspberry, or Cranberry, may all be made in the same way, in winter. A little whipped cream may be placed in the top, for a variety.
Baked and Boiled Puddings.
We have already, in the Comforts for Invalids, given several of the most simple receipts. I prefer using, in these kinds of puddings, as the principal ingredient, stale Savoy cake, or sponge cakes, or ladies' fingers, and, if I cannot get them, crumbs of stale bread; they may be made in a hundred different ways, according to the fancy and taste of the cook; the mould should be buttered and papered; they may be either baked or steamed.
There is hardly any of our sex, from childhood to old age, but loves this truly English mixture, which appears upon bur tables in a hundred different shapes, but always under the same name; and I should riot fancy my labours complete if I did not produce a new one of my own invention; I therefore beg you to accept the dedication, as I intend to call it—
820. PUDDING À LA ELOISE.—It is made as follows: Take half a pound of bread-crumbs, which put in a basin, with two ounces of sago, six ounces of chopped suet, six eggs, five ounces of moist sugar, and a tablespoonful of either orange, lemon, or apricot marmalade; mix all well together, and ornament the bottom of the mould with green angelica in syrup, and Smyrna raisins, and fill up with the mixture. Place the mould in a stewpan containing water to half the height of the mould, and boil gently for two hours; remove it from the mould, and serve with a sauce made of a tablespoonful of either of the marmalades, or of currant or apple jelly and two glasses of sherry poured over. This, I assure you, received great praise from the little party of juveniles that I had the other day.
821. PUDDING À LA REINE.—Butter and paper the mould, fill up with cake or bread-crumbs, when full pour some custard in until it will hold no more; this may be flavoured with any white liquor or essence you please, for instance, citron (then it is called Pudding a la Reine an Citron) or orange; use peel thinly sliced, and so on for any flavour you may give it. Steam or bake for thirty minutes.
822. MINCE-MEAT PUDDING.—Butter and paper the mould, then put a layer of cake and a layer of mince-meat alternately, till full, then add the custard. Bake for thirty-five minutes.
823. DEMI-PLUM PUDDING.—Prepare the mould, then add a layer of plum pudding, broken in pieces, that has been left from the previous day, alternately, till full, fill up with custard, and steam or bake for thirty minutes. The remains of any kind of pudding may be used thus.
824. TRIFLE PUDDING.—Prepare the mould and fill with the same ingredients as directed for trifle, taking care that the wine, &c, is well soaked in before adding the custard. Steam or bake thirty minutes. The sides and tops of these puddings may be ornamented with cut angelica, hops, or candied orange or lemon peel, in any fanciful design you please, and they may be served with any kind of wine sauce.
825. CARROT PUDDING.—Mix in a bowl half a pound of flour, half a pound of chopped suet, three quarters of a pound of grated carrot, a quarter of a pound of raisins stoned, a quarter of a pound of currants, and a quarter of a pound of sugar, brown or sifted white; place these in a mould or dish, beat up two whole eggs, the yolks of four in a gill of milk, grate a little nutmeg in it, and add it to the former; bake or steam forty-five minutes.
826. COLLEGE PUDDING, or DUMPLING.—Take two handfuls of bread-crumbs, half a pound of currants, half a pound of beef marrow, or suet, chopped fine, three whole eggs, a little nutmeg and salt, moisten with a little milk and brandy, then roll them up in the shape of an egg, in eggs and bread-crumbs, fry them in clarified fat, serve them on a napkin with wine sauce in a boat. If required in moulds, dilute the mixture with a little more milk, and steam them thirty minutes.
827. BROWN BREAD PUDDING—Brown bread cut in slices and baked in the oven until crisp, then powder it, pass it through a sieve, and soak it with two spoonfuls of rum and brandy; then make a mixture well worked with six yolks of eggs; then add the bread the same as flour, and the whites well whipped, seasoned with a small quantity of cinnamon and cloves, pounded, and citron cut in slices. The mould well buttered, and bread-crumbed, and baked or steamed for one hour. For the sauce, a little port-wine, currants, almonds, and citrons cut in slices.
828. BROWN BREAD PUDDING ANOTHER WAY. —Take two ounces of pounded almonds, mix it with seven yolks of egg flavoured with a little ground spice, add to it four tablespoonfuls of brown bread-crumbs soaked in brandy, butter and bread-crumb the mould; when ready, add the whites of eggs, well beaten, to the mixture, and bake in a slow oven for an hour and a half—on a trivet, if the oven is two hot; the same sauce as above.
829. PRESERVED GINGER PUDDING. — Take six ounces of butter, to which add six ounces of flour, and stir it over a slow fire; have a pint and a half of boiling milk, which mix gradually with the above over the fire, then add the yolks of six eggs and half a pound of preserved ginger, cut fine, whip the whites well, and add them the last thing, place in a mould, and steam for an hour and a half; serve custard sauce with it.
The principal one, and the most celebrated, is the plum pudding.
830. PLUM PUDDING—Pick and stone one pound of the best Malaga raisins, which put in a basin, with one pound of currants (well washed, dried and picked), a pound and a half of good beef suet (chopped, but not too fine), three quarters of a pound of white or brown sugar, two ounces of candied lemon and orange-peel, two ounces of candied citron, six ounces of flour, and a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, with a little grated nutmeg; mix the whole well together, with eight whole eggs and a little milk; have ready a plain or ornamented pudding-mould, well butter the interior, pour the above mixture into it, cover a sheet of paper over, tie the mould in a cloth, put the pudding into a large stewpan containing boiling water, and let boil quite fast for four hours and a half (or it may be boiled by merely tying it in a pudding-cloth previously well floured, forming the shape by laying the cloth in a round-bottomed basin and pouring the mixture in, it will make no difference in the time required for boiling); when done, take out of the cloth, turn from the mould upon your dish, sprinkle a little powdered sugar over, and serve with the following sauce in a boat:—Put the yolks of three eggs in a stewpan, with a spoonful of powdered sugar, and a gill of milk; mix well together, add a little lemon-peel, and stir over the fire until becoming thickish (but do not let it boil), when add two glasses of brandy, and serve separate.
The above sauce may be served poured over the pudding, if approved of.
An excellent improvement to a plum pudding is to use half a pound of beef marrow cut into small dice, omitting the same quantity of suet.
831. ROWLEY POWLEY.—Roll out about two pounds of paste (No. 746), cover it with any jam or marmalade you like, roll it over and tie it loose in a cloth, well tying each end; boil one hour and serve, or cut it in slices and serve with sauce over.
832. PLUM BOLSTER, OR SPOTTED DICK.—Roll out two pounds of paste (No. 746), have some Smyrna raisins well washed, and place them on it here and there, roll over, tie in a cloth, and boil one hour, and serve with butter and brown sugar.
833. PLAIN BOLSTER.—Roll as above, sift some white or brown sugar over it; the addition of a little powdered cinnamon to the sugar is an improvement; roll over and proceed as before.
834. APPLE DUMPLINGS Peel and cut out the core with a cutter, cover it with paste (No. 746), tie in a cloth, and boil according to size; these are all the better for being boiled and kept in the cloth, hung up for four or six weeks, and rewarmed. They may likewise be baked. These kind of boiled puddings, containing a large quantity of paste, should be made with flour, in which is mixed one saltspoonful of culinary alkali powder to four pounds of flour, which will cause them to be much lighter.
835. MARROW PUDDING may be made in various ways; it is best with half a pound of ladies' finger cakes, and a quarter of a pound of beef marrow, chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of currants well cleaned, half an ounce of candied lemon-peel, a little nutmeg, a tablespoonful of powdered sugar, a saltspoonful of salt, and half a wineglassful of wine or brandy; put these on a dish, and fill up with custard, having previously put a border of paste on the rim; about half an hour will bake it.
836. CUSTARD PUDDING.—Make a border of paste on the dish, and fill up with custard, grate a little nutmeg on the top.
Any kind of fruit puddings with custard may be made in the same way, by placing them in the custard, and sift some finely-powdered sugar over, before going to the baker's.
837. FRUIT PUDDINGS are best made in a basin, the basin to be buttered and lined with the paste, and then filled with the fruit, which cover with the paste; the paste should be rolled round to the thickness of half an inch, and when the fruit is in, drawn to the centre, and squeezed, and then tied up in a cloth kept on purpose, and boiled in plenty of water; when done, which will be according to the nature of the fruit you put in it, serve it either turned out of the basin or not. The cover should be of the same thickness as the sides. Sugar should be added before being covered.
838. COCOA-NUT PUDDING.—Remove the shell of the cocoa-nut and cut the brown skin away, cut the nut in pieces and place it in cold water, remove it and wipe it dry, grate about a quarter of a pound of a large one, very fine, into a plate. Place in a basin a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar, and three ounces and a half of fresh butter, stir them together until it becomes like cream; add to it a tablespoonful of brandy, and about four drops of either essence of vanille, or any other essence whose flavour may be preferred. Place the white of six eggs into a bowl, and beat them well up; then add gradually the butter and sugar, which keep stirring at the same time; add by degrees the cocoa-nut. Cover a pie-dish with puff paste, place the mixture in it, and bake in a moderate oven for about half an hour. Glaze it with powdered sugar and powdered cinnamon mixed.
839. APPLES should be pared, cored, and cut in quarters, and put in with some sugar, a few cloves, and a bit of lemon-peel.
840. WALL FRUIT—as Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, and Plums,—should be cut in half, and the kernels extracted from the stones and added, a little cream, according to the size of the pudding, in which a little grated cinnamon is added, may be put in at the same time as the fruit; use but little sugar.
841. GOOSEBERRY, Rhubarb, Currants, red, white, and black, Raspberry and Cherry, Blackberry, Whorts, Damson, and Greengage—may all be made in a similar way.
842. MINCE MEAT.—Procure four pounds and a half of kidney beef suet, which skin and chop very finely; have also a quarter of a pound of candied lemon and orange-peel; the same of citron, a pound and a half of lean cooked beef, and three pounds and a half of apples, the whole separately chopped very fine, and put into a large pan with four pounds and a half of currants, well washed and picked, two ounces of mixed spice, and two pounds of sugar; mix the whole well together with the juice of eight lemons and a pint of brandy, place it in jars, and tie down until ready for use; a pound and a half of Malaga raisins, well stoned and chopped, may likewise be added to the above. It is ready for use in a few days.
The mince meat as made at Windsor Castle every year, and made one month previous to using, is as follows: 240lbs. raisins; 400lbs. currants; 200lbs. lump sugar; 3lbs. cinnamon; 3lbs. nutmegs; 3lbs. cloves; 3lbs. ground allspice; 2lbs. ginger; 300lbs. beef; 350lbs. suet; 24 bushels of apples; 240 lemons; 30lbs. of cedret; 72 bottles of brandy; 3lbs. mace; 60lbs. lemon-peel; 60lbs. orange-peel.
843. MINCE PIES.—Have a piece of puff-paste, which roll out to the thickness of a penny piece; have also a dozen tartlet-pans, which lightly butter, cut out twelve pieces with a round cutter from the paste, each the size of your tartlet-pans; lay them upon the slab, roll the trimming of the paste again to the former thickness, cut twelve other pieces, with which line the tartlet-pans; put a piece of mince-meat, made as above, in each, wet them round, place on the lids, pricking a hole with a pin in the centre, and close them well at the edges; egg over lightly, and bake about twenty minutes in a moderate oven.
844. FRUIT PIES.—These are made in pie dishes, the top of which is only covered with paste; the edge of the dish should be wetted, and a strip of paste, about one inch wide and a quarter of an inch thick, put on it, then fill the dish with the fruit, wet the paste on the edge, and cover with paste, mark the edge with a roller, or the back of a knife.
845. APPLE PIE.—Pare, cut, and core sufficient apples to fill the dish, put a small cup in the middle or not, as you like, one clove to every three apples, a pinch of pounded cinnamon, a small piece of chopped lemon-peel, and sugar; bake according to size.
846. RHUBARB AND APPLE, or Rhubarb and Gooseberry, Currant and Raspberry, Cherry, Plum, Damson, Pear, Quince, Mulberry, Worthberry, or Whorts and Raspberry, Dewberry and Raspberry, or Cranberry, may all be made in the same way, in winter. A little whipped cream may be placed in the top, for a variety.
Notes: