Alexis Soyer's Part 1: Breakfasts
Welcome to Celtnet's Alexis Soyer's Part 21 (Desserts, Compotes and Cakes) Page — Here you will find the full text from the twenty-first Desserts, Compotes and Cakes: Soufflées of Alexis Soyer's Modern Housewife or Ménagère As well as the full text this page also provides links out to the overall index of the book and links to modern redactions of each and every recipe (where practicable). This site builds a complete library of Eliza Acton recipes, allowing the modern cook to make them at home today. Enjoy...
DESSERT.
LETTER No. XVII.
Ma Chere Eloise,—Remembering your admiration of the small dessert I put on the table at my last birth-day party, you will, I am confident, feel interested in the description of desserts in general, and I will give you a few more hints and receipts, which will tend both to economise as well as gratify the palate and sight; and very different in style from some of our visitors, who, though they spend their money freely enough when they give their Christmas party, still keep up the old style of covering their table with dry sweet stuff, and, in the way of fruits, display oranges in their original golden skin, Ribston pippins in their mournful ones, American apples with their Vermillion cheeks, large winter pears in their substantial state, the whole ornamented and crowned with laurel, no doubt to signify their immortality, being present upon almost every table from year to year, especially the unsociable pear, which no teeth can ever injure, but, on the contrary, it may injure the teeth. A very comical friend assured us, as a fact, that he had met one of the before-mentioned pears in three different parties in less than a week, having, for curiosity's sake, engraved his initial with a penknife upon one he was served with at the first party. "And, talk about pineapples," said he, "many times I have had the pleasure of meeting with the same, and even as often as twice in less than twelve hours, quite in a different direction, that is, on a dinner-table in the west-end about eight in the evening, and, at midnight, on the supper-table of a civic ball; at dinner being perched on an elevated stand in the centre of a large wide table, so much out of reach that it would almost require a small ladder to get at it; and I must say that every guest present paid due respect to his high position, and never made an assault, or even an attempt to disturb, much less to uncrown his fruity majesty, though, now and then, one of the fair guests, as a compliment, would remark to the Amphitryon, that she never saw in her life a finer pine-apple. 'Very fine, very fine, indeed, madam! will you allow me to offer you part of an orange?' 'Not any more, I thank you, sir,' being the reply."
On the supper table this aristocratic and inaccessible pine still holds its kingly rank, and is still proudly perched on the top of a sideboard, surrounded by Portugal or Rhenish grapes, and to prevent its dethronement by removing the grapes the intelligent waiter has carefully tied it to the ornament that supports it. Our friend, who is a literary gentleman, has promised to write a small brochure, to be called the 'Memoirs of a Pineapple in London,' which, I am confident, will not fail of being very interesting, having had the advantage of mixing in so many different societies. For the last few years an abundance of the natural ones from the West Indies has in some respects injured the high estimation bestowed on this delicious fruit, but still a good and large English pine, like the one I have mentioned above, will always maintain its dignity and price.
I know, dearest, what will be your feeling after the perusal of the above, that I have given vent to a little scandal; but it is the truth, and of almost daily occurrence, so that there is no mystery about it. I do not mean that it is very general, but is certainly often practised; for my part, you know my style: I never attempt to astonish my guests with extensive wonders of nature and art in any shape of eatable, but simply follow the middle prices by which I always can procure the best quality of article in comestibles; and nothing pleases me more when I give a party than that every dish on. the table should be partaken of, and still more so when entirely eaten. I do not approve of meanness; though a great economist, I abhor it as much as I do extravagance; and we never, I assure you, give a single party without being perfectly satisfied that it does not interfere with our daily comforts, that is, as regards financial matters. For dessert in summer I confine it entirely to fresh fruit, compotes, ices, and a few almond cakes, and Savoy biscuits. Fruits, preserves, oranges, compotes, and biscuits in winter.
The list of names I here inclose to you consists of moderately-priced articles, and will enable you to make a good appearance for your dessert, and at a trifling expense.
The first thing I wish you to be initiated in is, what is called in France 'compote,' which may be made almost from any kind of fruits, especially apples, pears, apricots, plums, greengages, peaches, cherries, gooseberry, oranges, &c. It was on my second visit to Havre that I took lessons in confectionery; I paid as much as ten shillings per lesson to M. Bombe Glacé, that being the 'nom de guerre' of the first confectioner there; but you know, dearest, how quick I am at learning, especially anything in the way of cookery. I really must say I do love cooking, so you may fancy that the clever artist, Monsieur le Oonfiseur, had not very many of our demi-souvereign, as he called them, from us; my Mr. B. thought at the time that it was quite ridiculous and extravagant to pay so much for a trifle like that; but let me tell you, dear, he had not then tasted them; but now all the wall and treefruits from our garden, if I were to follow entirely his taste, would be converted into compote, he being so remarkably fond of it.
Compote.
Procure a very clean tin stewpan or a small sugar-pan, like M. Bombe Glacé used; it is also from him that I bought mine, which I showed you when you were here; it being more preferable for boiling sugar, why I cannot tell, never having asked the reason, being so anxious to know other things which I thought more serviceable; but there must be some cause for him to have used it so continually, as he is such a very clean and precise man in all his manipulations, even to the making of a sugar stick. Since, I have tried it in a common stewpan, which has answered very well; and knowing by experience that your culinary laboratory is still in its innocent infancy, you might be prevented from making an immediate experiment by waiting till you could get one; so you may use that three-pint size stewpan, which I lent you for a pattern about three weeks ago, and after which I shall feel extremely gratified by its reappearance on my kitchen shelf at No. 5, being out of the middle of the row, for every time I enter my kitchen it puts me in mind of a very pretty woman minus one of her front teeth.
Excuse me if I claim it of you, but I wish to teach you punctuality as well as economy.
878. COMPOTE OF WINTER PEARS, like the one our comical friend had.—To put an end to its long and hard existence, I would cut it into six or eight pieces lengthwise, peel and cut out the cores, giving them a nice shape; then put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, a gill of port wine, the thin rind of a lemon, a little cinnamon, and half a pint of water; let them simmer gently about an hour or until tender; when done, put them into a basin, reduce the syrup until thickish if required, and pour over; when cold they are ready to serve.
A little prepared cochineal mixed with the syrup very much improves their appearance. A dish composed half of these and half of the white has a very pretty appearance. By placing a layer of marmalade among them, at the bottom of the dish, you may dish them in crown, or any shape you like.
879. COMPOTE OF PEACHES.—Put half a pound of lump sugar (broken into small pieces) into a stewpan, with a quarter of pint of water, which set upon the fire to boil until forming a thickish syrup; have previously cut four ripe peaches in halves, lay them carefully in the boiling syrup to simmer a couple of minutes, then carefully remove them with a colander-spoon on to a hair sieve to drain, remove the skins, and dress the peaches neatly upon your dessert-dish; reduce the syrup until of a good consistency, and when cold pour it over, and they are ready to serve.
880. COMPOTE OF APPLES.—Procure six nice ripe apples, but not too large, which peel, cut in halves, and cut out the cores, rub each piece over with a little lemon, and put them into boiling syrup made as last directed, but with the juice of a lemon, and the rind cut into small fillets added; let the apple stew until tender, but not broken, drain them upon a sieve, reduce the syrup; and when both are cold, dress the apple neatly upon your dish, and pour the syrup over. A little green angelique, cut in various shapes, will make a pretty ornament on any white compote.
881. COMPOTE OF SMALL APPLES, SERVED WHOLE.—Select nine small golden pippins, each as nearly as possible of an equal size, and with a long round vegetable cutter, of the size of a sixpenny piece, cut out the cores, then peel them very thin and smooth, rub their surface with lemon juice, and throw them into a basin of spring water; have ready boiling half a pint of syrup, made as before directed; to which add the rind of a lemon (cut into thin strips), and the juice; lay in the apples, which let simmer very gently until quite tender, drain them upon a hair sieve, and reduce the syrup until thickish; when quite cold, dress the apples upon your dish, five at the bottom, three upon them, and one upon the top; when ready to serve, pour the syrup over.
882. COMPOTE OF GREEN APRICOTS.—Have a pottle of green apricots, from which pick off all the stalks, and throw them into a stewpan containing a quart of boiling water, and let them boil very fast for ten minutes, and drain them upon a sieve; have ready half a pint of syrup made as before directed, in which boil them until tender, but not to break, and thicken the syrup, pour the whole into a basin until quite cold; should the syrup then be too thin, strain it off into the stewpan to reduce to a proper consistency, pouring it again over the apricots when quite cold. Dish tastefully.
883. COMPOTE OF GREENGAGES.—Procure twelve greengages, not quite ripe, each of which cut into halves, take out the stones, have ready boiling half a pint of syrup, as before directed, into which put half the fruit, let it simmer a couple of minutes, then remove them with a colander-spoon, draining them upon a sieve; then put in the remainder, with which proceed in the same manner; remove the skins, put the fruit into a basin, reduce the syrup until thickish, and when cold, pour it over the fruit, which is then ready to serve.
Any description of plums may be dressed in precisely the same method.
884. COMPOTE OF APRICOTS.—Procure six very fine ripe apricots, which divide into halves; take out the stones, have ready half a pint of boiling syrup reduced quite thick, in which let them simmer about a minute, when pour the whole into a basin until cold; should the fruit not be quite ripe, they would require longer time to simmer. I frequently break the stones and blanch the kernels to add to the compote; they are a great improvement, also, to cherries and plums.
885. COMPOTE OF CHERRIES.—Take a pound of fine cherries, not too ripe, and cut away half the stalks with a pair of scissors; have half a pint of syrup, which boil until very thick, when add half of the cherries, and boil them two or three minutes, take them out with a colander-spoon, drain them upon a sieve, and proceed the same with the remaining half; reduce the syrup until very thick, dress the cherries pyramidically upon your dish, stalks uppermost, and when the syrup is cold, pour it over, and serve.
886. COMPOTE OF ORANGES.—Make a pint of syrup as before; have six fine oranges, which skin carefully, scraping off as much of the pith as possible; divide each orange into eight entire pieces, without breaking the delicate skin with which they are divided; when the syrup is very thick, put in the pieces of oranges, which simmer gently for five minutes, take them out with a colander-spoon, and drain them upon a sieve; reduce the syrup very quickly until thickish, and when cold, pour it over the oranges, which will be then ready to serve. Half the rind of the oranges, free from pith, cut into small fillets, are a great improvement boiled in the syrup.
887. COMPOTE OF FRENCH PLUMS—Put half a pound of French plums into a stewpan, with a gill of water, the same of wine, the rind of half a lemon cut thin, two cloves, and a good spoonful of sugar, let them simmer about twenty minutes, and when cold take out the lemon and cloves, and they are ready to serve.
COMPOTES OF FRUIT SIMPLIFIED.
As I usually make them when alone, or for a very homely dinner-party. The whole of the following must be done over a very slow fire.
888. PEARS.—Cut six ripe middling-sized pears in halves, peel neatly, cut out the cores, and put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, the juice of a lemon, the thin rind cut into strips, and a very little drop of water; set them upon the fire, stewing them until tender; they will form their own syrup; put them in a basin until cold, when they are ready to serve.
889. RIBSTON PIPPINS.—Peel and cut four apples into quarters, take out the cores, and stew them as directed for pears, but using the rind of an orange instead of the rind of a lemon.
890. ORANGES.—Prepare four oranges as directed (No. 886), which put into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and the juice of another orange; set them upon the fire, and when the syrup becomes sufficiently thick to adhere to the pieces of orange, they are done; when cold, dress them in a circle upon your dish, with strips of angelica between each.
891. APRICOTS.—Cut eight unripe apricots into quarters, which put into a stewpan, with four ounces of sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a drop of sherry, set them upon the fire, shaking the stewpan round occasionally, until the apricots are tender, but not broken; a very few minutes would be sufficient to stew them, and when cold, they are ready to serve.
For Peaches, proceed exactly the same; but if too ripe, they must be done as directed for compote of peaches.
892. GREENGAGES AND OTHER PLUMS.—Put twelve into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of sugar, the juice of a lemon and a little drop of water, set them over the fire, shaking the stewpan round occasionally until the fruit is tender, but not mashed; when cold, dress them in pyramid, and pour the syrup over.
893. CHERRIES.—Cut the stalks of a pound of Kentish cherries rather short, and put the fruit into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of sugar and the juice of a lemon; place them over the fire (occasionally shaking the pan round), letting them simmer about two minutes, when take them out with a colander-spoon, and put them into a basin until cold, reduce the syrup, to which add sufficient isinglass to set it as a jelly, and pour it upon a large plate until set, when dress the cherries pyramidically, just dip the bottom of the plate containing the syrup into warm water, and turn it as a jelly over the cherries.
894. GREEN GOOSEBERRIES.—Put a pint of green gooseberries into a stewpan with two ounces of sugar and a little sherry, place them over a sharp fire, as the quicker they cook the better colour they will keep; when tender but not broken, pour them into a basin, and when cold they are ready to serve.
895. RED RHUBARB.—The small forced rhubarb (Mitchell's Royal Albert) is by far the best. Cut about half a pound of it into pieces half an inch in length, which put into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and a wineglassful of water; set it over a sharp fire, occasionally shaking the stewpan round, and when quite tender pour it into a basin until cold; when it is ready to serve, should the syrup be too thin, add sufficient isinglass to set it, and when cold dress it pyramidically upon your dish.
896. CURRANTS AND RASPBERRIES- Pick the Stalks from a pint of currants, which put into a stewpan with half a pint of raspberries and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar; set them upon the fire, shaking the stewpan round occasionally until boiling, when pour them into a basin to cooL Should the syrup be too thin, which would be the case if the fruit is too ripe, drain the fruit from it, reduce it by boiling, and when cold, pour it again over the fruit, which will be then ready to serve.
897. ROYAL ICING FOR CARES.—Have ready a pound of the best white sugar, which pound well and sift through a silk sieve, put it into a basin with the whites of three eggs, beat well together with a wooden spoon, adding the juice of half a lemon, keep beating well until it becomes very ' light and hangs in flakes from the spoon (if it should be rather too stiff in mixing, add a little more white of egg, if, on the contrary, too soft, a little more sugar), it is then ready for use where required.
898. CHOCOLATE ICEING FOR CAKES is made similar to the last, but when finished have ready a piece of the common chocolate, which melt in a stewpan over the fire, keeping it stirred; when quite melted stir some of it in with the iceing until you have obtained the colour required, moistening the icing with a little more white of egg, and use where directed.
899. SUGAR IN GRAINS is made by pounding a quantity of sugar in a mortar, and sifting off all the fine through a hair sieve, then again what remains in the sieve put into a rather coarse wire sieve, and that which passes through is what is meant by the above term.
900. HOW TO GIVE COLOUR TO SUGAR.—Prepare about half a pound of the sugar as in the last, which, put upon a baking-sheet; have a spoonful of the essence of spinach, which stir in with the sugar until every grain is strained, then put them in a warmish place to dry, but not too hot: to colour them red, use a little prepared cochineal or liquid carmine, instead of the spinach, and proceed exactly the same: sugar may be made of other colours by the use of indigo, rouge, saffron, &c; but not being partial to such a variety of colouring, I have merely given the red and the green, which, with the white, I consider to be sufficient for any of the purposes for which they are used.
901. SUGAR OF VANILLA.—Chop a stick of well-frosted vanilla very small, and put it into a mortar, with half a pound of lump sugar, pound the whole well together in a mortar, sift through a hair sieve, and put by in a bottle or jar, corking it up tight, and using where required.
902. SUGAR OF LEMON.—Rub the rind of some fresh lemons upon a large piece of sugar, and as it discolours the part upon which it is rubbed scrape it off with a knife; when you have obtained a sufficient quantity, dry a little in the screen, and bottle for use where required. Orange sugar may be made in the same manner, substituting very red oranges for the lemons.
903. HOW TO MAKE CLEAR SUGAR.—Break three pounds of fine white sugar, the hardest and closest grained is the best, put it into a sugar-pan, with three pints of clear spring water, set over a sharp fire, and when beginning to boil place it at the corner to simmer, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, skim well and reduce to two thirds, it is then ready to use for jellies.
If not able to obtain the best quality of sugar, it would be necessary to use white of eggs as an assistance in the clarification, by putting the white of one egg in a basin and whipping it well with a pint of cold water; add half of it to the sugar, whipping it well in, let simmer, adding the remainder by degrees whilst simmering, and passing it through a fine cloth into a basin. The boiling of sugar is divided into seven different degrees, which may be ascertained by the following directions:—
The first degree is known by dipping a copper skimmer into it whilst boiling, turning it over two or three times; if the sugar falls from it in sheets it has attained the first degree.
The second is known by boiling your sugar rather longer, dipping your finger and thumb into cold water, then your finger into the boiling sugar, putting your finger and thumb together, and again opening them, it will form a kind of thread; if it is too weak boil a little longer; this is the most useful degree for fruit or water ices.
The third degree is attained by boiling it a little longer, and trying it in the same manner; upon the thread breaking, should it form a kind of pearl, it has attained the above degree; the sugar in boiling would also be covered with a quantity of small bubbles resembling pearls.
The fourth degree is attained by boiling it still longer; dip a skimmer into it, turn, take out, and blow it hard, when the sugar will form little bladders and float in the air; this degree is called the soufflé.
For the fifth degree boil still longer, trying it in the same manner, but blowing harder; the bladders will be larger and adhere together, forming feathers; this degree is called la plume, or the feather.
The sixth is called le petit casée, and is obtained by boiling the sugar a little longer: to know this degree, have a pint of cold water in a basin, into which you have put a piece of ice, dip your finger into it, then into the boiling sugar, and then into the water again, take the piece which adheres to the finger and bite, if rather crisp, but sticking to the teeth, it has attained that degree.
The seventh and last requires great attention: to attain it, boil rather longer, dip your finger in as before, if it cracks and does not at all adhere to the teeth in biting, it is done, take from the fire, and it is ready for use for making any kind of sugar ornament.
When intended for such purposes, however, add a little tartaric acid when it arrives to the degree la plume, and pour it into a smaller sugar-pan, allowing it to reach the rims, it will be then, unable to burn round the sides as if in a larger pan; if such a thing should, however, happen in a larger pan, wipe the interior of the pan round with a sponge previously dipped in cold water, or it would discolour the sugar.
Ornaments of spun sugar I have a very great dislike to for a dinner; but, if required, the sugar must be boiled to the last degree. Should the sugar grain, it may be brought back by adding more water, and when dissolved, boiling over again; in spinning sugar you must keep the bulk of it in a warm temperature, having a little in a smaller pan for use, which keep in a melted state, by placing it in a bain-marie of hot water, or in a hot closet.
904. SILK THREAD, or SPUN SUGAR.— Having boiled your sugar to the seventh degree, as in the last, oil the handle of a wooden spoon, tie two forks together, the prongs turned outwards, dip them lightly into the sugar, take out and shake them to and fro, the sugar running from them over the spoon forming fine silken threads, proceeding thus until you have as much as you require, take it from the spoon and form it with your hands into whatever may be directed for the garnishing of any dish, not, however, too thick, or it would look heavy. An experienced hand would prefer doing it from the lip of the sugar-pan.
Other kinds of ornaments from sugar are made in a similar manner by oiling a mould or shape and running threads of the sugar from the lip of the pan over it as tastefully as possible, but as I have not referred to it in this work I will not enter into its details. These are more fit for suppers than dinners.
905. VANILLA ICE CREAM.—Put the yolks of twelve eggs in a stewpan, with half a pound of sugar, beat well together with a wooden spoon, in another stewpan have a quart of milk, and when boiling throw in two sticks of vanilla, draw it from the fire, place on the lid, and let remain until partly cold, pour it over the eggs and sugar in the other stewpan, mix well, and place it over the fire (keeping it stirred) until it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon," when pass it through a tammy into a basin, let remain until cold, then have ready a pewter freezing-pot in an ice-pail well surrounded with ice and salt;* put the above preparation into it, place on the lid, which must fit rather tightly, and commence twisting the pot round sharply, keeping it turned for about ten minutes, when take off the lid, and with your spatula clear the sides of the interior of the pot, place the lid on again, turn the pot ten minutes longer, when again clear the sides and beat the whole well together until smooth, it being then about half frozen, then add four glasses of noyeau or marasquino and a pint and a half of cream well whipped, beat the whole well together, place the lid upon the top, keep twisting it round a quarter of an hour, clear well from the sides, beat again well together, proceeding thus until the whole is frozen into a stiff but smooth and mellow substance; should you require to keep it some time before serving, pour the water which has run from the ice out of the pail, and add fresh ice and salt; when ready to serve work it up smoothly with your spatula, fill the mould, and proceed as No. 847.
906. COFFEE ICE CKEAM.—Proceed exactly as in the last, but omitting the noyeau or marasquino, and making an infusion with coffee as directed (No. 43) instead of vanilla.
907. ICE OF CHOCOLATE is made similar to the vanilla ice-cream, but omitting the vanilla and liqueur, in the room of which scrape a quarter of a pound of chocolate, place it in a stewpan over the fire, and keep stirring until melted, then have ready boiling a quart of milk, which mix with the chocolate by degrees, finish with eggs and sugar, and freeze as before. 908. ICE OF PINEAPPLE.—Procure a rather small pineapple, take off the rind, which reserve, and cut the apple into pieces an inch in length and about the thickness of a quill, place them in a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, set it upon the fire and reduce to a rather thickish syrup, have ready a pint and a half of milk upon the fire, into which, when boiling, throw the rind of the pineapple, cover it over and let infuse ten minutes; in another stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs, to which add the milk by degrees (previously straining it), place over the fire, keeping it stirred until adhering to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammy into a basin, add the syrup and pineapple, and freeze it as in the last, adding a pint and a half of whipped cream; when half frozen, use where directed.
909. LEMON ICE CREAM.—Take the rind from six lemons as thin as possible and free from pith, squeeze the juice of the lemons into a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, place it upon the fire and reduce until rather a thickish syrup, have a pint and a half of milk upon the fire, into which, when boiling, throw the rind of the lemons, cover over and let remain until half cold; in another stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs (to which you have added an ounce of sugar), with which mix the milk by degrees, and stir over the fire till it adheres to the back of the spoon, when stir in the syrup and pass it through a tammy; when cold, freeze as directed (No. 905) adding a pint of whipped cream when half frozen.
910. ORANGE ICE CREAM.—Proceed precisely as in the last, but using the juice and rind of ten oranges instead of lemons as there directed.
911. APRICOT ICE CREAM.—Procure a dozen and a half of fine ripe apricots, which cut in halves, take out the stones, which break, extracting the kernels, which blanch in very hot water, and skin, then put them with the apricots into a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a glassful of water, let them boil until almost forming a marmalade, when put them by in a basin; have the yolks of twelve eggs in a stewpan, with which mix by degrees a pint and a half of milk, set over the fire, keeping it stirred until thick enough to adhere to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammy into a basin, add the syrup and apricots, and, when cold, three glasses of noyeau, freeze as in No. 905, and, when half frozen, add a pint of good whipped cream.
912. STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM.—Procure about two pounds of fine ripe strawberries, which pick and rub through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon, obtaining all the juice and pulp of the strawberries, with which mix half a pound of powdered sugar, and put it by in a basin; in a stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs, with which mix by degrees a pint and a half of milk, stir over the fire until it becomes thickish, adhering to the back of the spoon, pass it through a .tammy, and when cold add the juice from the strawberries, and three glasses of maraschino; freeze it as directed (No. 905), adding a pint of whipped cream when half frozen and sufficiently prepared; cochineal, to give it a strawberry colour, if approved of.
913. MARMALADE OF APPLE.—Peel and cut thirty apples in slices, taking out the cores, and, if for preserving, to every pound of fruit put three-quarters of a pound of broken sugar (but, if for immediate use, half a pound would be quite sufficient), place the whole in a large preserving-pan, with half a spoonful of powdered cinnamon and the rind of a lemon chopped very fine, set the pan over a sharp fire, stirring it occasionally until boiling, when keep stirring until becoming rather thick; it is then done: if for immediate use, a smaller quantity would be sufficient, which put by in a basin until cold; but if to keep any time, put it in jars, which cover over with paper, and tie down until wanted.
914. MARMALADE OF APRICOTS.—Stone about eight pounds of ripe fleshy apricots, break the stones, and blanch and skin the kernels, which with the apricots put into a preserving-pan, add six pounds of sugar and place it over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally until boiling, when keep stirring until becoming rather thick, take it off, put it in jars, and when cold tie paper over, and put by until ready for use.
915. QUINCE JAM PURÉE.—Procure a sieve of fine ripe quinces, which peel and cut in four, taking out the cores, place them in a large preserving-pan and cover with cold water; set upon the fire, and when boiling and tender to the touch, place them in a large sieve to drain one hour, pass them through a tammy, then have ready a corresponding weight of sugar boiled to the sixth degree (No. 903) in the preserving-pan, to which add the puree of quinces, keep stirring over the fire till forming thin sheets, drop a little upon the cover of a stewpan, if it sets quickly take it from the fire, put it in small jars, and let remain a day until quite cold, when tie them down, and put^by until wanted.
916. APRICOT MARMALADE JAM.—Procure a quantity of very ripe apricots, each of which cut into four or six pieces, break the stones and blanch the kernels, put the apricots in a preserving-pan with a small quantity of water, boil them until quite tender, when pass them through a sieve; to every pound of fruit have three-quarters of a pound of sugar (in a preserving-pan) boiled to the sixth degree (No. 903), add the apricots with their kernels, and keep stirring over the fire until forming thin transparent sheets, try when done as in the last, and put away in pots. The marmalade would be still more transparent if you were to peel the apricots first, but then you would lose some of their delicious flavour.
917. MARMALADE OF CHERRIES.—Procure a sieve of bright Kentish cherries, pull out the stalks and stones, and put the fruit in a preserving-pan, place over the fire, keeping it stirred until reduced to two-thirds; have in another preserving-pan, to every pound of fruit, half a pound of sugar boiled to the sixth degree (No. 903), into which pour the fruit when boiling hot, let reduce, keep stirring until you can just see the bottom of the pan, when take it from the fire, and fill your jars as before.
A plainer way is to take off the stalks and stone the fruit, place them in a pan over a sharp fire, and to every pound of fruit add nearly a pound of sugar, keep stirring until reduced as above, and let it get partly cold in the pan before filling the jars.
918. STRAWBERRY JAM.—Pick twelve pounds of very red ripe strawberries, which put into a preserving-pan, with ten pounds of sugar (broken into smallish pieces), place over a sharp fire, keep continually stirring, boiling it until the surface is covered with clearish bubbles; try a little upon a cover, if it sets, fill the jars as before.
919. RASPBERRY JAM.—Pick twelve pounds of raspberries, and pass them through a fine sieve to extract the seeds, boil as many pounds of sugar as you had pounds of fruit to the sixth degree (No. 903), when add the pulp of the fruit, keep stirring over the fire, reducing it until you can just see the bottom of the pan, take it from the fire, and put it into jars as before.
920. JELLY OF APPLE.—Cut six dozen of sound rennet apples in quarters, take out all the pips, put them into a sugar-pan, just cover them with cold water, and place over the fire, let boil until the apples become quite pulpy, when drain them upon a sieve, catching the liquor in a basin, which afterwards pass through a new and very clean jelly-bag; to every pint of liquor have one pound of sugar, which boil to the sixth degree as directed (No. 903); when, whilst hot, mix in the liquor from the apple with a very clean skimmer; to prevent it boiling over keep it skimmed, lift the skimmer occasionally from the pan, and when the jelly falls from it in thin sheets, take it up and fill the pots as before; the smaller pots are the best adapted for jellies.
921. JELLY OF QUINCE.—Proceed exactly as directed in the last, but using quinces instead of apples.
922. SWEETMEAT OF CURRANT JELLY.—Put half a sieve of fine red currants in a large stewpan, with a gallon of white currants and a gallon of raspberries, add a quart of water, place over the fire, keep stirring, to prevent them sticking to the bottom, and let boil about ten minutes, pour them into a sieve to drain, catching the juice in a basin and draining the currants quite dry, pass the juice whilst hot through a clean jelly-bag, have a pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and proceed precisely as directed for apple jelly. Should you have time to pick the currants from the stalks previous to boiling, you would lose that bitter flavour, and have less difficulty in making your jelly clear.
923. CURRANT JELLY is made precisely as in the last, omitting the raspberries, the difference being in the use; the last being adapted for the garnishing of pastry, and this to use for sauces, or to serve with hares, venison, or any other meat, where required.
A more simple method of making currant jelly is to rub the fruit through a sieve, and afterwards squeeze it through a fine linen cloth, put it into a preserving-pan with, to every pint of juice, three quarters of a pound of white sugar; place over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally with a skimmer, keeping it well skimmed; it is done when dropping in sheets as before from the skimmer. For my own part, I prefer this last simple method, being quicker done, and retaining more of the full freshness of the fruit.
It is not my intention to give a description of the various methods of preserving fruits, which belong to the confectionery department; that I shall do in the Letters from the Farm; I have, however, given the few foregoing receipts, they being required for reference from various parts of our work, and being all that are required for the garnishing of dishes for the second-course ; many other fruits may, however, be made into marmalades and jellies by following these few simple directions.
SALADS OF VARIOUS FRUITS.
You will perceive, my dear Eloise, that there is no end to the variation of dishing fruits for deserts; I send the following as being more simple than any, and within the reach of almost every individual.
924. SALAD OF ORANGE S—Select four good oranges, the thinnest rind ones are preferable; cut them crosswise into slices double the thickness of a crown-piece, dress them round upon your dish, one piece resting half way upon the other; shake one ounce of sifted sugar over, pour over a good tablespoonful of brandy, and it is ready; to serve it out, put two pieces upon the plate of each guest, with a spoonful of the syrup. Slices of red Malta oranges, dressed alternately with the other, have a pleasing effect. Any kind of liquor may be used, as also might whisky, rum, or that white cream or blue devil commonly called g—; dear me, I quite forget the name.
925. SALAD OF STRAWBERRIES.—Pick the stalks from a pottle of very fine strawberries, which put into a basin with half a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, two glasses of brandy, and an ounce of sifted sugar, toss them lightly over, and dress them in pyramid upon your dish, pouring the syrup over; these should only be dressed a few minutes before serving; the brandy might be omitted. If handy, a glass of maraschino, substituted for brandy, makes them delicious. The small wild strawberry is the best for this dish.
926. SALAD OF PEACHES.—Procure four ripe peaches, which peel and cut into quarters; put them into a basin with two ounces of sugar and a glass of sherry, toss them lightly over, dress upon your dish and serve. Apricots, greengages, and other plums, are dressed in salads in the same manner, leaving their skins on.
927. SALAD OF CURRANTS AND RASPBERRIES. —Put an equal quantity of each, making rather more than a pint, into a basin, with two ounces of powdered sugar-candy, and a little powdered cinnamon, toss them over lightly, and they are ready to serve.
923. PINE APPLES.—I have tried several experiments with the West Indian pine-apples, many of which being rather stale when they arrive here, would make an unsightly appearance whole upon the table, but made into a compote or salad, they are really very excellent, having also the advantage of being very cheap.
For a compote, peel one rather thickly, to leave no black spots upon it, make a syrup with half a pound of sugar, as directed (No. 903), cut your pine-apple into round slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, which put into the syrup, boiling them ten minutes; take them out with a colander-spoon, reduce the syrup until thickish, and pour it over the pine-apple; when cold it is ready to serve.
For a salad, peel and cut a pine-apple into small square dice, which put into a basin with two ounces of sugar-candy (powdered) and a glass of noyeau, toss all well together and serve.
For marmalade, pare and cut into small pieces several small pine-apples, and to every quart thus cut up add one pound of tine sugar, boil for half an hour, and put in a pot.
CAKES.
929. CAKE OF SAVOY IN MOULD.—Have ready a large high mould lightly buttered (with a soft brush, and clarified butter), turn the mould up to drain, and when the butter is quite set throw some finely-sifted sugar into it; move the mould round until the sugar has adhered to every part, after which turn out the superfluous sugar, tie a band of buttered paper round at the top, and place it in a cool place until the mixture is ready. Place the yolks of fourteen eggs in a basin, with one pound of sugar (upon which you have rubbed the rind of two lemons previous to pounding), beat well together with a wooden spoon until nearly white, then whip the whites of the eggs very stiff, add them to the yolks and sugar, with six ounces of flour and six ounces of potato-flour; mix the whole lightly, but well together, and fill the mould rather more than three parts full, place it in a very moderate oven one hour, keeping the oven-door shut; then try when done, as directed in No. 931; if done, takeoff the paper, and turn it out upon a sieve until quite cold. The above mixture, being more delicate than No. 931, would not do so well for removes, but may be used for that purpose by being made three or four days before it is required.
930. SAVOY CAKES, OR LADIES' FINGERS.—Have the weight of nine eggs of sugar in a bowl, which put into a bain-marie of hot water, weigh the same weight of flour, which sift through a wire sieve upon paper, break the eggs into a bowl, and proceed as directed for sponge-cake; then with a paper funnel or bag, with a tin pipe made for that purpose, lay it out upon papers into biscuits three inches in length and the thickness of your little finger, sift sugar over, shaking off all that does not adhere to them; place them upon baking-sheets, and bake in rather a warm oven of a brownish-yellow colour, when done and cold, detach them from the paper by wetting it at the back, place them a short time to dry, and they are ready for use for charlotte russe, or wherever directed.
931. SPONGE CAKE.—Put one pound of powdered sugar in a good-sized bowl, which stand in a bain-marie of hot water; gift one pound of flour upon a sheet of paper, then break twelve eggs into the bowl with the sugar, which whisk rather quickly until they become a little warm and rather thickish, then take the bowl from the bain-marie, and continue whisking until nearly or quite cold; then add the chopped rind of a lemon and the flour, which mix lightly with a wooden spoon; have ready your mould or baking-dish lightly buttered, into which you have put a little flour, knocking out all that does not adhere to the butter, pour in the mixture and place it one hour in a moderate oven, it may require longer or not so long, but that will depend entirely upon the compass you have it in; if done, it will feel firm to the touch, but the surest method is to run a thin wooden skewer into the centre; if it comes out clean, the cake is done, but if not some of the mixture would adhere to it; care should be taken not to disturb it until quite set, or it would sink in the centre, and never properly bake; when done, turn it out upon a sieve to cool. Serve where indicated.
932. SMALL SPONGE CAKES.—Put six whole eggs into an earthen pan with half a pound of sugar, upon which you have previously rubbed the rind of a lemon, stand the pan in very hot water, keeping its contents well mixed until becoming rather warm, when take it from the water, continuing to whisk until quite cold and thickish, stir in gently half a pound of sifted flour, have ready buttered, and dusted with sugar, about a dozen small sponge-cake tins, put a tablespoonful of the mixture into each, shake sugar over, and bake them in a moderate oven.
933. POUND CAKES.—Put one pound of butter into an earthen pan with a pound of powdered sugar, and a little grated nutmeg, beat them well together with the hand until forming a smooth lightish cream, when add by degrees eight eggs, beating it for ten minutes after, then add a pound and a quarter of sifted flour, stir it in lightly, and put the mixture into hoops to bake.
934. QUEEN'S CAKES.—Weigh of butter the weight of six eggs, and nine of powdered sugar, which put together in an earthen pan, beat well with the hand until forming a smooth cream, when add by degrees nine eggs, and when well beat, stir in the weight of nine eggs of flour and half a pound of currants; have ready buttered about a dozen little round cake pans, fill each one rather better than three parts full with the mixture, shake sugar over, and bake them in a moderate oven. If no cake pans, drop the mixture upon paper in pieces half the size of a walnut, and an inch and a half apart, shake sugar over, bake in a warm oven, and, when done, remove them from the papers.
935. ALMOND CAKES.—Procure one pound of ground almonds, to which add two pounds of powdered sugar, mixing the whole with the whites of nine eggs, beating the mixture well with a wooden spoon for about ten minutes, lay them out upon wafer paper of an oval shape with a tablespoon, put three or four strips of almonds upon the top of each, and bake them in a slow oven; when done, break away all the wafer paper but that which adheres to the bottom of the cake, and, when cold, they are ready for use.
936. COCOA-NUT BISCUITS, -Scrape four cocoa-nuts, to which add the same weight of powdered sugar, mix with whites of eggs, beating with a wooden spoon until forming a softish but thick paste; lay the mixture out upon wafer-paper in small drops, baking them as directed in the last.
937. MOSS BISCUITS.—Weigh half a pound of flour, to which add an ounce and a half of butter and five ounces of sugar, rub them well together, and mix with one whole and one white of egg and a teaspoonful of milk; then add two ounces of ground almonds, which rub well into the paste; afterwards rub the whole through a gauze wire sieve, taking it off in small pieces, which lay upon a lightly buttered baking-sheet, and bake them in a moderate oven.
938. ROUT CAKES.—Procure one pound of ground almonds, to which add one pound of powdered sugar, mixing them together with yolks of eggs until forming a stiffish but flexible paste, when form it into small biscuits of the shapes of coronets, bunches of filberts, birds' nests, or any other shapes your fancy may dictate; let them remain five or six hours, or all night, upon the baking-sheet, and bake them in a warm oven.
939. ROUT BISCUITS.—Boil a pound and a quarter of lump sugar, upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon, in half a pint of milk; when cold, rub half a pound of butter with two pounds of flour, make a hole in the centre, pour in the milk with as much carbonate of soda as would he upon a sixpence, and a couple of eggs, mix the whole into a smooth paste, lay it out upon your baking-sheet in whatever flat shapes you please, and bake them in a very warm oven.
The proper way to shape these biscuits is by wooden blocks having leaves, pine-apples, and other devices carved upon them.
940. CREAM BISCUITS.—Rub one pound of fresh butter into one pound of flour, make a hole in the centre, into which put half a pound of powdered sugar, upon which the rind of a lemon was rubbed previously to pounding, and three whole eggs; mix the eggs well with the sugar, and then mix altogether, forming a flexible paste; cut it into round pieces each nearly as large as a walnut, stamp them flat with a butter-stamp of the size of a crown-piece, and bake them in a slack oven.
941. SHREWSBURY CAKES—Weigh one pound of flour, into which rub half a pound of butter and six ounces of sugar, make a hole in the centre, into which break a couple of eggs, and add sufficient milk to form a flexible paste, which roll out to the thickness of a penny-piece, and cut it into small cakes with a round cutter; bake them in a moderate oven.
Ginger Cakes are made precisely as the above, but adding half an ounce of ground ginger before mixing; and Cinnamon Cakes, by rubbing in an ounce and a half of ground cinnamon after the paste is mixed.
942. MACAROONS.—Blanch and skin half a pound of sweet almonds, dry them well in your screen, then put them into a mortar with a pound and a half of lump sugar, pound well together, and pass the whole through a wire sieve; put it again into a mortar, with the whites of two eggs, mix well together with the pestle, then add the white of another egg, proceeding thus until you have used the whites of about eight eggs and made a softish paste, when lay them out at equal distances apart, upon wafer-paper, in pieces nearly the size of walnuts, place some strips of almonds upon the top, sift sugar over, and bake in a slow oven of a yellowish brown colour; they are done when set quite firm through.
943. RATAFIAS.—Ratafias are made similar to the above, but deducting two ounces of sweet, and adding two ounces of bitter almonds; they are laid out in much smaller cakes upon common paper, and baked in a much warmer oven; when cold, they may be taken off the paper with the greatest ease.
These cases are very serviceable in making a great many second-course dishes.
944. ITALIAN DROPS.—Have a mixture similar to the above, with merely a liqueur glassful of best noyeau, lay it in round drops upon paper, and bake in a hot oven without sifting any sugar over; when taken from the papers, dry them a little in the screen, and they are ready to serve.
The bottoms may be spread over with apricot marmalade, and two stuck together just previous to being served, if approved of.
945. BOLA D'AMOUR—LOVE CAKE.—Take the yolks of eggs, as many as are required for the dish (about twelve), and beat them up in a pan with an equal weight of sugar, the same as sponge cakes, using any kind of liquor or essence for flavouring. When the mixture is beaten up light and got thick, have ready some clarified butter in a stewpan, made hot enough for frying. Pour the mixture into a funnel having a small bore or pipe, and let it run into the hot butter, turning the hand while it is running, so that it may be formed into threads all over the surface of the pan. In about two minutes it will be done, when it should be taken out with a skimmer, and be placed on the dish for serving, garnishing it with any kind of preserve, and serve cold.
Another way is, to beat up the eggs with some liquor, and run it into some boiling syrup at the blow.
946. THE QUEEN VICTORIA'S CAKE.—To three-quarters of a pound of flour, add half an ounce of German yeast, mixed with warm water until forming a stiff paste, and place it in a stewpan, and let it stand by the fire or oven until well risen, during which time the butter must be well worked until soft, adding fl quarter of a pound of flour more and five eggs gradually, and beat them well together; when done, if the leaven is well risen, add to it one and a-half pound of raisins, with a little salt and sugar; let it stand in the mould for a short time, and bake it in a slow oven.
947. COTTAGE CAKE.—Procure from a baker half a quartern of dough, which put into an earthen pan; melt in a stewpan half a pound of either fresh or salt butter; mix both well with the hand, adding half a pound of sugar; add to it half a pound of currants well washed, one and a-half pound of plums, and a teaspoonful of mixed spice; when well mixed, place it in a hoop or pan before the fire; let it rise for one hour, and send it to be baked; it will take about one hour in a slow oven.
948. WEST INDIAN CAKE.—Proceed as above for the ingredients; then add a quarter of a pound of preserved West Indian ginger, cut in small dice, and four spoonfuls of brandy, and two teaspoonfuls of dry grated ginger; bake as above.
949. ELETHERIAN PINE APPLE CAKE. —Take three-quarters of a pound of pine apple, not over ripe, peel it; place half a pound of white sugar in a pan, with half a pint of water, boil till a thick syrup; cut the pine in small dice of a quarter of an inch, and pour the syrup over; and, when nearly cold, add to it the dough, which has previously been mixed with three-quarters of a pound of butter and two eggs; let it rise in a hoop as above, and bake in the same way: a glass of rum may be added.
LETTER No. XVIII.
Royal St. James's Cake.
950. ST. JAMES'S CAKE.—Put one pound of very fresh butter in a good-size kitchen basin, and with the right hand work it up well till it forms quite a white cream; then add one pound powdered sugar, mix well, add ten eggs by degrees; put to dry a pound and a quarter of flour, which mix as lightly as possible with it; branch and cut in slices two ounces of pistachios, two ditto of green preserved angelica, add two liqueur glasses of noyeau, two drops of essence of vanilla; whip a gill and a half of cream till very thick, mix lightly with a wooden spoon, have a mould made the shape of the drawing, put it in, and send to the baker; it will take about one hour and a quarter to bake; ornament as represented in the subjoined cut:
ST. JAMES'S CAKE.
You will perceive, my dear, that my ideas are more extravagant in my sleep than when awake, but pray consider who was to partake of it.' > In case you do not succeed at first, I intend to give the receipt to Mr. Purcell, of Cornhill, who will make it to perfection for you.
LETTER No. XIX.
THE DINNER-TABLE.
My Dear Eloise,—I thank you for your kind compliment, but I have always been of opinion that the arrangements and serving of a dinner table have as much to do with the happiness and pleasure of a party as the viands which are placed upon it; this I had a practical proof of last week. Mr. B. and myself were invited to dine with Mr. D., a city friend, at Balham Hill; I had before met Mrs. D. at an evening party at his partner's, at Hackney, and knew but little of her.
Dinner was served pretty punctually, only half an hour after time. On my entrance in the room my first glance at the table showed me that there was a want of savoir-faire in its management; the plate, very abundant and splendid, was of so yellow a cast that it looked as if it were plated, and the cut glass was exceedingly dim. My first surprise was that there were no napkins, the next the soup plates were quite cold, which I have found often the case in other houses ; after being served with fish, and waiting until it was cold for the sauce to eat with it, I was rather sceptical how the rest of the dinner would progress. After the first, the second course made its appearance, which was heavy and too abundant; the plain things were well done, but there was only one servant in the room for the whole party of fourteen, and from the strict formality of the table, it would have been a sacrilege to have handed your plate for any vegetables, or anything else you might require. There were four saltcellars, certainly very massive silver ones, at each corner of the table, and a beautiful cruet-frame in the centre; the hot dishes of this course, like the previous one, became cold and tasteless before being eaten, and during the time the servant was serving the champagne all the plates were empty; in fact it was a good dinner spoilt. The wine drank with less gout than usual, and the long pauses between the courses made the formality appear still greater than it really was, and made you wish for the time to arrive for the cloth to be removed, which was not done, only the slips, a most awkward undertaking for one servant, and should never be practised unless having at least two.
About half an hour after the cloth was removed, and just as the conversation was being thawed from the freezing it received at the dinner table, Mrs. D. and the ladies withdrew, and for an hour and a half we had to bear the insipid conversation of the drawing-room, the hissing urn on the tea-table bearing a prominent part. Several messages were sent from time to time to the dining-room that coffee was ready; and when at last the gentlemen came, two had had quite wine enough, which caused them to receive sundry angry looks from their wives who were present, and who were glad to get them into their carriages which were waiting, and right glad indeed was I when ours was announced.
This all happened, my dear Eloise, not from meanness; for if money could have purchased it nothing would have been wanting, but solely from want of management; and every one should think before they invite their friends to partake of their hospitality if they know how to entertain them. Money of course will provide delicacies of all kinds, but to know how to dispose of those delicacies to the best advantage that your friends may appreciate them, is what is sadly wanting in more than one house I visit.
A very excellent remark is made in this week's Punch* by Mr. Brown, in his Letters to a Young Man about town on the subject of great and little dinners. He says: "Properly considered, the quality of the dinner is twice blest; it blesses him that gives, and him that takes; a dinner with friendliness is the best of all friendly meetings—a pompous entertainment, where no love is, is the least satisfactory."
Our dinner on which you compliment me so much, we sat down twelve, for although the room and table would accommodate more, yet as my service of plate is for that number, and the arrangements of the kitchen are limited, that is the number I prefer, besides beyond which the conversation becomes partial, which is the bane of a dinner-table. You know we have no regular man-servant, but for these occasions I hire two, and place one on each side the table, and they each have their own side table with a change of everything that is required. The first thing to be looked to is the lights: these ought to be so placed as not to intercept the view of any person at the table, but at the same time they ought to be enough to show everything off to advantage; I prefer removing some of the lights from the table to the sideboard when the cloth is removed, as the light after dinner ought to be more subdued. In laying the cloth, we place it over the baize and remove it after dinner, as Mr. B. says he likes to see the mahogany, for when he asks a City friend to come and put his feet under his mahogany, it looks rather foolish if he never sees it. I have, as you know, my table rather wide, that is, six feet, and I generally place a vase of flowers in the centre, as I think their freshness and odour add greatly to the appearance of the table, and admit a flanc on each side. We prefer the old English plan of taking the top and bottom of the table instead of I and Mr. B. being together at the side.
The cloth being laid with its proper side uppermost, I order a napkin, two knives, two prongs, two tablespoons, and two wine glasses to be placed to each person, a saltcellar between every other, that being a condiment which every one uses, though often wrongly; the cruet-frames and other requisites are kept on the sideboards. I then have the fish and soup served together, the potatoes and sauce on the sideboard; I serving the soup, and Mr. E. the fish, and often a little dish of fried fish, such as smelts, &c., to remove the soups. This gives me an opportunity of seeing that my guests are properly attended to, and also leisure of taking wine with any gentleman who challenges me. During the time this course has been progressing, the cook has had time to dish up the removes nice and hot, and get all up close to the door, as I like as little time as possible to intervene in changing the dishes; and these consist generally of variously dressed chickens, which I have before me, as this gives an opportunity for the gentleman on my right to display his gallantry; but, thanks to Soyer's separator, this is an easy task: it also affords me still further leisure to pay attention to my guests. Mr. B., who is a capital carver, either has a saddle or a haunch of mutton, or a quarter of lamb before him, the rest of the dishes consisting of a tongue and entrees. I select those most easy to carve, and also easy for the cook to prepare. This is a period of dinner where a great deal depends upon the attendants; they should know almost by the look what this lady or that gentleman require, and what kind of vegetables to hand them; a first-rate butler should be able to judge by the physiognomy to whom he should offer mint sauce with the lamb, and who prefers cayenne; on their attention and hot plates depends the success of the substantial part of the dinner.
As soon as I see that all are served, and words are few in consequence of the organs which utters them being employed in another way, I give a look to the two servants which they understand, and immediately two reports are heard—they are from two bottles of champagne, opened at the same time by the attendants, who have each a salver with six glasses on it; this takes but a short time to serve, and prepares the palate for the entrees, which generally get praised; indeed, my cook would think something was wrong if two of the dishes did not go down empty. By having the champagne thus, I find it goes much further than if only one bottle was opened at the time, there being sufficient left in the bottles for a gentleman to challenge a lady to take champagne with him. If I have game I remove the top and bottom dishes with them, and make the sweets a separate course, taking care to have cold plates for the jelly, and having the liquors handed round when the sweets are on the table; one cheese I place opposite Mr. B., and macaroni opposite myself. Objections have been made to the use of napkins, as being of no service at an English dinner-table, and only a copy of the dirty manners of our neighbours. If we are more cleanly at the table than they are, (which I question), there is no reason why we should not use that which would make us still more so; but Mr. B. is so pleased with the rose water which he has at the court dinners of his company, that he made me a present of those two beautiful dishes which you admired so much. The outside compartment holds rose water, and the inner one a little eau-de-cologne; these are placed on salvers, and passed down each side of the table, the corner of each napkin being dipped into it. They seem to be absolutely required, and I must say they form a delightful adjunct to the dinner-table.
Mr. B.* has also introduced at our table, but only at Christmas, another city custom, which the gentlemen seem very much to like,—I cannot say so for the ladies; it is what he calls the loving cup; he has it placed before him when the cheese is put on; and after filling the glass of the lady on each side of him, he rises and drinks to their health and the rest of the company, and then passes it to the gentleman on the left, who in like manner, fills the glass of the lady on his left, rises, drinks to her health and the company, and thus it goes round the table. Your husband, my dear Eloise, thought that the contents were exceedingly good; or, as he expressed it, nectar fit for the gods, and would like to have the receipt—here it is as Mr. B. prepares it:—
Loving Cup.—The cup holds two quarts: he places in it half a teacupful of capillaire; if he has none he uses dissolved lump sugar, with a few drops of orange-flower water in it, one pint of brown sherry, one bottle of good Edinburgh ale, mixing these together, and a minute before placing on the table, adding one bottle of soda water,† stirring it well up till it froths, he then grates some nutmeg on the froth, and places a piece of toast in it, and sends it to the table with a napkin through the handle of the cup. I must say, since we have had this, it has produced some most interesting conversation as regarded the antiquity of the custom, &c. In addition, Mr. B. bought the cup at a sale, and it is stated to have been drunk out of by Henry the Eighth: this of itself is a subject of conversation, and draws out the talents and conversational powers of our guests, and one in which ladies can join, as there is hardly one of our sex who has not read Miss Strickland's "Queens of England." You have often made the remark, that the time always appears short whilst we are at table ; this is, no doubt, from the animated conversation which is kept up, for that is the real motive of meeting together, to enjoy the conversation of one another, to gain and impart information, and amuse ourselves with the wit and talent of those around us, and not for the sake of eating and drinking; yet without the assistance of both of these, the most sparkling wit would be as heavy as a bad souffle, and the brightest talent as dull as my looking-glass on a foggy day.
In order to prolong the time, and to enjoy the gentleman's society as much as possible, I do not have the dessert placed on the table until ten or twenty minutes after the cloth is removed; this gives an opportunity for my guests to admire the beautiful Sevres dessert plates, containing views of different French chateaux; this of course gives a subject for conversation to those who have visited them. In the dessert I generally introduce some new importation, such as bananas, sugar-cane, American lady apples, prickly pears, &C. ; these also give a subject for the gentlemen to talk about when the ladies have left, as free trade, colonial policy, &c. About half an hour after the dessert is on the table, and when I see that the conversation is becoming less general, I retire to the drawing-room; the servants then remove the used glass and plates, and Mr. B. introduces some of his choice Claret or Burgundy in ice coolers.
You know, my dear Eloise, I allow very little more than half an hour for us to talk about the last new fashions, or of Mrs. A. and B.'s cap, and the young ones about their partners at the last ball, and other nothings, when the tea and coffee are brought up on salvers; it is always made down stairs, and sent up in cups to the drawing-room, although Mr. B. had a very handsome silver service presented to him just after we were married, for serving as an honorary secretary to some grand masonic festival, yet the milk ewer and sugar basin are all I allow in the room. This does away with the formality of the tea-table and the hissing of the tea-urn; it allows some young gentleman with a Byron collar and a little down under his chin to turn over the pages of a music-book for a young lady at the piano, and take his coffee at the same time; it allows my dear mamma and Mr. P. to make up their whist table, and have their tea whilst playing; or if we make up a quadrille, to have a few turns of a waltz or polka, the coffee is serving during the time; whilst this is going on the hand of the clock advances, and half past ten soon arrives, and with it Mrs. C.'s fly; Dr. D.'s brougham is at the door; the party breaks up, delighted with the evening they have passed in each other's society: and this you see done with trifling management.
LETTER No. XX.
Dearest Eloise,—You are right in your remark, that there is a great difference as to the manner and way in which evening parties or soirees are given in different houses, although being frequented by the same party or circle. I must say I have my own ideas on this subject, and I think the French understand this matter much better than we do, and that we could not do better than imitate them. We English are a plodding, matter-of-fact people, and carry our notions into every concern in life: our dinners and entertainments are given with an ulterior object, and with a view of what may be gained from it, even from the charitable dinner at the London Tavern to the man who asks another to partake a crust of bread and cheese and a pint of beer with him at a public-house. It is this feeling, together with the ostentation, which is the bane of society, by bringing together people of incongruity of ideas, and destroying that free exchange of thought which constitutes the true pleasure of social reunions. We are also naturally of a reserved and cautious disposition: hence the reason why the pleasures of a Soiree are not felt until after supper. For these I am a great advocate, though not to the extravagant and outre manner so many are given at the present day. Of course in the way most ladies are now educated, they would rather be attending to the adornment of their persons for the occasion than to the entertainment and amusement of their guests. Those who can afford it, are quite right to patronise a first-rate confectioner, and thus save themselves the trouble; but how many that cannot afford to do the same thing, and make a bargain for a bad supper, by which they gain but little, and cause the guests great disgust, instead of preparing it at home, and ordering a few good things which would look and eat well. There are a variety of drinks which could be made at a moderate expense, good and wholesome; and infinitely better than bad Marsala, which you are often obliged to partake of. I will enclose you a few receipts for them, and some bills of fare for suppers for small soirees, not such as described in Mr. Pips his Diary a few weeks since.
Desserts, Compotes and Cakes.
Ma Chere Eloise,—Remembering your admiration of the small dessert I put on the table at my last birth-day party, you will, I am confident, feel interested in the description of desserts in general, and I will give you a few more hints and receipts, which will tend both to economise as well as gratify the palate and sight; and very different in style from some of our visitors, who, though they spend their money freely enough when they give their Christmas party, still keep up the old style of covering their table with dry sweet stuff, and, in the way of fruits, display oranges in their original golden skin, Ribston pippins in their mournful ones, American apples with their Vermillion cheeks, large winter pears in their substantial state, the whole ornamented and crowned with laurel, no doubt to signify their immortality, being present upon almost every table from year to year, especially the unsociable pear, which no teeth can ever injure, but, on the contrary, it may injure the teeth. A very comical friend assured us, as a fact, that he had met one of the before-mentioned pears in three different parties in less than a week, having, for curiosity's sake, engraved his initial with a penknife upon one he was served with at the first party. "And, talk about pineapples," said he, "many times I have had the pleasure of meeting with the same, and even as often as twice in less than twelve hours, quite in a different direction, that is, on a dinner-table in the west-end about eight in the evening, and, at midnight, on the supper-table of a civic ball; at dinner being perched on an elevated stand in the centre of a large wide table, so much out of reach that it would almost require a small ladder to get at it; and I must say that every guest present paid due respect to his high position, and never made an assault, or even an attempt to disturb, much less to uncrown his fruity majesty, though, now and then, one of the fair guests, as a compliment, would remark to the Amphitryon, that she never saw in her life a finer pine-apple. 'Very fine, very fine, indeed, madam! will you allow me to offer you part of an orange?' 'Not any more, I thank you, sir,' being the reply."
On the supper table this aristocratic and inaccessible pine still holds its kingly rank, and is still proudly perched on the top of a sideboard, surrounded by Portugal or Rhenish grapes, and to prevent its dethronement by removing the grapes the intelligent waiter has carefully tied it to the ornament that supports it. Our friend, who is a literary gentleman, has promised to write a small brochure, to be called the 'Memoirs of a Pineapple in London,' which, I am confident, will not fail of being very interesting, having had the advantage of mixing in so many different societies. For the last few years an abundance of the natural ones from the West Indies has in some respects injured the high estimation bestowed on this delicious fruit, but still a good and large English pine, like the one I have mentioned above, will always maintain its dignity and price.
I know, dearest, what will be your feeling after the perusal of the above, that I have given vent to a little scandal; but it is the truth, and of almost daily occurrence, so that there is no mystery about it. I do not mean that it is very general, but is certainly often practised; for my part, you know my style: I never attempt to astonish my guests with extensive wonders of nature and art in any shape of eatable, but simply follow the middle prices by which I always can procure the best quality of article in comestibles; and nothing pleases me more when I give a party than that every dish on. the table should be partaken of, and still more so when entirely eaten. I do not approve of meanness; though a great economist, I abhor it as much as I do extravagance; and we never, I assure you, give a single party without being perfectly satisfied that it does not interfere with our daily comforts, that is, as regards financial matters. For dessert in summer I confine it entirely to fresh fruit, compotes, ices, and a few almond cakes, and Savoy biscuits. Fruits, preserves, oranges, compotes, and biscuits in winter.
The list of names I here inclose to you consists of moderately-priced articles, and will enable you to make a good appearance for your dessert, and at a trifling expense.
The first thing I wish you to be initiated in is, what is called in France 'compote,' which may be made almost from any kind of fruits, especially apples, pears, apricots, plums, greengages, peaches, cherries, gooseberry, oranges, &c. It was on my second visit to Havre that I took lessons in confectionery; I paid as much as ten shillings per lesson to M. Bombe Glacé, that being the 'nom de guerre' of the first confectioner there; but you know, dearest, how quick I am at learning, especially anything in the way of cookery. I really must say I do love cooking, so you may fancy that the clever artist, Monsieur le Oonfiseur, had not very many of our demi-souvereign, as he called them, from us; my Mr. B. thought at the time that it was quite ridiculous and extravagant to pay so much for a trifle like that; but let me tell you, dear, he had not then tasted them; but now all the wall and treefruits from our garden, if I were to follow entirely his taste, would be converted into compote, he being so remarkably fond of it.
Procure a very clean tin stewpan or a small sugar-pan, like M. Bombe Glacé used; it is also from him that I bought mine, which I showed you when you were here; it being more preferable for boiling sugar, why I cannot tell, never having asked the reason, being so anxious to know other things which I thought more serviceable; but there must be some cause for him to have used it so continually, as he is such a very clean and precise man in all his manipulations, even to the making of a sugar stick. Since, I have tried it in a common stewpan, which has answered very well; and knowing by experience that your culinary laboratory is still in its innocent infancy, you might be prevented from making an immediate experiment by waiting till you could get one; so you may use that three-pint size stewpan, which I lent you for a pattern about three weeks ago, and after which I shall feel extremely gratified by its reappearance on my kitchen shelf at No. 5, being out of the middle of the row, for every time I enter my kitchen it puts me in mind of a very pretty woman minus one of her front teeth.
Excuse me if I claim it of you, but I wish to teach you punctuality as well as economy.
878. COMPOTE OF WINTER PEARS, like the one our comical friend had.—To put an end to its long and hard existence, I would cut it into six or eight pieces lengthwise, peel and cut out the cores, giving them a nice shape; then put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, a gill of port wine, the thin rind of a lemon, a little cinnamon, and half a pint of water; let them simmer gently about an hour or until tender; when done, put them into a basin, reduce the syrup until thickish if required, and pour over; when cold they are ready to serve.
A little prepared cochineal mixed with the syrup very much improves their appearance. A dish composed half of these and half of the white has a very pretty appearance. By placing a layer of marmalade among them, at the bottom of the dish, you may dish them in crown, or any shape you like.
879. COMPOTE OF PEACHES.—Put half a pound of lump sugar (broken into small pieces) into a stewpan, with a quarter of pint of water, which set upon the fire to boil until forming a thickish syrup; have previously cut four ripe peaches in halves, lay them carefully in the boiling syrup to simmer a couple of minutes, then carefully remove them with a colander-spoon on to a hair sieve to drain, remove the skins, and dress the peaches neatly upon your dessert-dish; reduce the syrup until of a good consistency, and when cold pour it over, and they are ready to serve.
880. COMPOTE OF APPLES.—Procure six nice ripe apples, but not too large, which peel, cut in halves, and cut out the cores, rub each piece over with a little lemon, and put them into boiling syrup made as last directed, but with the juice of a lemon, and the rind cut into small fillets added; let the apple stew until tender, but not broken, drain them upon a sieve, reduce the syrup; and when both are cold, dress the apple neatly upon your dish, and pour the syrup over. A little green angelique, cut in various shapes, will make a pretty ornament on any white compote.
881. COMPOTE OF SMALL APPLES, SERVED WHOLE.—Select nine small golden pippins, each as nearly as possible of an equal size, and with a long round vegetable cutter, of the size of a sixpenny piece, cut out the cores, then peel them very thin and smooth, rub their surface with lemon juice, and throw them into a basin of spring water; have ready boiling half a pint of syrup, made as before directed; to which add the rind of a lemon (cut into thin strips), and the juice; lay in the apples, which let simmer very gently until quite tender, drain them upon a hair sieve, and reduce the syrup until thickish; when quite cold, dress the apples upon your dish, five at the bottom, three upon them, and one upon the top; when ready to serve, pour the syrup over.
882. COMPOTE OF GREEN APRICOTS.—Have a pottle of green apricots, from which pick off all the stalks, and throw them into a stewpan containing a quart of boiling water, and let them boil very fast for ten minutes, and drain them upon a sieve; have ready half a pint of syrup made as before directed, in which boil them until tender, but not to break, and thicken the syrup, pour the whole into a basin until quite cold; should the syrup then be too thin, strain it off into the stewpan to reduce to a proper consistency, pouring it again over the apricots when quite cold. Dish tastefully.
883. COMPOTE OF GREENGAGES.—Procure twelve greengages, not quite ripe, each of which cut into halves, take out the stones, have ready boiling half a pint of syrup, as before directed, into which put half the fruit, let it simmer a couple of minutes, then remove them with a colander-spoon, draining them upon a sieve; then put in the remainder, with which proceed in the same manner; remove the skins, put the fruit into a basin, reduce the syrup until thickish, and when cold, pour it over the fruit, which is then ready to serve.
Any description of plums may be dressed in precisely the same method.
884. COMPOTE OF APRICOTS.—Procure six very fine ripe apricots, which divide into halves; take out the stones, have ready half a pint of boiling syrup reduced quite thick, in which let them simmer about a minute, when pour the whole into a basin until cold; should the fruit not be quite ripe, they would require longer time to simmer. I frequently break the stones and blanch the kernels to add to the compote; they are a great improvement, also, to cherries and plums.
885. COMPOTE OF CHERRIES.—Take a pound of fine cherries, not too ripe, and cut away half the stalks with a pair of scissors; have half a pint of syrup, which boil until very thick, when add half of the cherries, and boil them two or three minutes, take them out with a colander-spoon, drain them upon a sieve, and proceed the same with the remaining half; reduce the syrup until very thick, dress the cherries pyramidically upon your dish, stalks uppermost, and when the syrup is cold, pour it over, and serve.
886. COMPOTE OF ORANGES.—Make a pint of syrup as before; have six fine oranges, which skin carefully, scraping off as much of the pith as possible; divide each orange into eight entire pieces, without breaking the delicate skin with which they are divided; when the syrup is very thick, put in the pieces of oranges, which simmer gently for five minutes, take them out with a colander-spoon, and drain them upon a sieve; reduce the syrup very quickly until thickish, and when cold, pour it over the oranges, which will be then ready to serve. Half the rind of the oranges, free from pith, cut into small fillets, are a great improvement boiled in the syrup.
887. COMPOTE OF FRENCH PLUMS—Put half a pound of French plums into a stewpan, with a gill of water, the same of wine, the rind of half a lemon cut thin, two cloves, and a good spoonful of sugar, let them simmer about twenty minutes, and when cold take out the lemon and cloves, and they are ready to serve.
As I usually make them when alone, or for a very homely dinner-party. The whole of the following must be done over a very slow fire.
888. PEARS.—Cut six ripe middling-sized pears in halves, peel neatly, cut out the cores, and put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, the juice of a lemon, the thin rind cut into strips, and a very little drop of water; set them upon the fire, stewing them until tender; they will form their own syrup; put them in a basin until cold, when they are ready to serve.
889. RIBSTON PIPPINS.—Peel and cut four apples into quarters, take out the cores, and stew them as directed for pears, but using the rind of an orange instead of the rind of a lemon.
890. ORANGES.—Prepare four oranges as directed (No. 886), which put into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and the juice of another orange; set them upon the fire, and when the syrup becomes sufficiently thick to adhere to the pieces of orange, they are done; when cold, dress them in a circle upon your dish, with strips of angelica between each.
891. APRICOTS.—Cut eight unripe apricots into quarters, which put into a stewpan, with four ounces of sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a drop of sherry, set them upon the fire, shaking the stewpan round occasionally, until the apricots are tender, but not broken; a very few minutes would be sufficient to stew them, and when cold, they are ready to serve.
For Peaches, proceed exactly the same; but if too ripe, they must be done as directed for compote of peaches.
892. GREENGAGES AND OTHER PLUMS.—Put twelve into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of sugar, the juice of a lemon and a little drop of water, set them over the fire, shaking the stewpan round occasionally until the fruit is tender, but not mashed; when cold, dress them in pyramid, and pour the syrup over.
893. CHERRIES.—Cut the stalks of a pound of Kentish cherries rather short, and put the fruit into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of sugar and the juice of a lemon; place them over the fire (occasionally shaking the pan round), letting them simmer about two minutes, when take them out with a colander-spoon, and put them into a basin until cold, reduce the syrup, to which add sufficient isinglass to set it as a jelly, and pour it upon a large plate until set, when dress the cherries pyramidically, just dip the bottom of the plate containing the syrup into warm water, and turn it as a jelly over the cherries.
894. GREEN GOOSEBERRIES.—Put a pint of green gooseberries into a stewpan with two ounces of sugar and a little sherry, place them over a sharp fire, as the quicker they cook the better colour they will keep; when tender but not broken, pour them into a basin, and when cold they are ready to serve.
895. RED RHUBARB.—The small forced rhubarb (Mitchell's Royal Albert) is by far the best. Cut about half a pound of it into pieces half an inch in length, which put into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and a wineglassful of water; set it over a sharp fire, occasionally shaking the stewpan round, and when quite tender pour it into a basin until cold; when it is ready to serve, should the syrup be too thin, add sufficient isinglass to set it, and when cold dress it pyramidically upon your dish.
896. CURRANTS AND RASPBERRIES- Pick the Stalks from a pint of currants, which put into a stewpan with half a pint of raspberries and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar; set them upon the fire, shaking the stewpan round occasionally until boiling, when pour them into a basin to cooL Should the syrup be too thin, which would be the case if the fruit is too ripe, drain the fruit from it, reduce it by boiling, and when cold, pour it again over the fruit, which will be then ready to serve.
897. ROYAL ICING FOR CARES.—Have ready a pound of the best white sugar, which pound well and sift through a silk sieve, put it into a basin with the whites of three eggs, beat well together with a wooden spoon, adding the juice of half a lemon, keep beating well until it becomes very ' light and hangs in flakes from the spoon (if it should be rather too stiff in mixing, add a little more white of egg, if, on the contrary, too soft, a little more sugar), it is then ready for use where required.
898. CHOCOLATE ICEING FOR CAKES is made similar to the last, but when finished have ready a piece of the common chocolate, which melt in a stewpan over the fire, keeping it stirred; when quite melted stir some of it in with the iceing until you have obtained the colour required, moistening the icing with a little more white of egg, and use where directed.
899. SUGAR IN GRAINS is made by pounding a quantity of sugar in a mortar, and sifting off all the fine through a hair sieve, then again what remains in the sieve put into a rather coarse wire sieve, and that which passes through is what is meant by the above term.
900. HOW TO GIVE COLOUR TO SUGAR.—Prepare about half a pound of the sugar as in the last, which, put upon a baking-sheet; have a spoonful of the essence of spinach, which stir in with the sugar until every grain is strained, then put them in a warmish place to dry, but not too hot: to colour them red, use a little prepared cochineal or liquid carmine, instead of the spinach, and proceed exactly the same: sugar may be made of other colours by the use of indigo, rouge, saffron, &c; but not being partial to such a variety of colouring, I have merely given the red and the green, which, with the white, I consider to be sufficient for any of the purposes for which they are used.
901. SUGAR OF VANILLA.—Chop a stick of well-frosted vanilla very small, and put it into a mortar, with half a pound of lump sugar, pound the whole well together in a mortar, sift through a hair sieve, and put by in a bottle or jar, corking it up tight, and using where required.
902. SUGAR OF LEMON.—Rub the rind of some fresh lemons upon a large piece of sugar, and as it discolours the part upon which it is rubbed scrape it off with a knife; when you have obtained a sufficient quantity, dry a little in the screen, and bottle for use where required. Orange sugar may be made in the same manner, substituting very red oranges for the lemons.
903. HOW TO MAKE CLEAR SUGAR.—Break three pounds of fine white sugar, the hardest and closest grained is the best, put it into a sugar-pan, with three pints of clear spring water, set over a sharp fire, and when beginning to boil place it at the corner to simmer, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, skim well and reduce to two thirds, it is then ready to use for jellies.
If not able to obtain the best quality of sugar, it would be necessary to use white of eggs as an assistance in the clarification, by putting the white of one egg in a basin and whipping it well with a pint of cold water; add half of it to the sugar, whipping it well in, let simmer, adding the remainder by degrees whilst simmering, and passing it through a fine cloth into a basin. The boiling of sugar is divided into seven different degrees, which may be ascertained by the following directions:—
The first degree is known by dipping a copper skimmer into it whilst boiling, turning it over two or three times; if the sugar falls from it in sheets it has attained the first degree.
The second is known by boiling your sugar rather longer, dipping your finger and thumb into cold water, then your finger into the boiling sugar, putting your finger and thumb together, and again opening them, it will form a kind of thread; if it is too weak boil a little longer; this is the most useful degree for fruit or water ices.
The third degree is attained by boiling it a little longer, and trying it in the same manner; upon the thread breaking, should it form a kind of pearl, it has attained the above degree; the sugar in boiling would also be covered with a quantity of small bubbles resembling pearls.
The fourth degree is attained by boiling it still longer; dip a skimmer into it, turn, take out, and blow it hard, when the sugar will form little bladders and float in the air; this degree is called the soufflé.
For the fifth degree boil still longer, trying it in the same manner, but blowing harder; the bladders will be larger and adhere together, forming feathers; this degree is called la plume, or the feather.
The sixth is called le petit casée, and is obtained by boiling the sugar a little longer: to know this degree, have a pint of cold water in a basin, into which you have put a piece of ice, dip your finger into it, then into the boiling sugar, and then into the water again, take the piece which adheres to the finger and bite, if rather crisp, but sticking to the teeth, it has attained that degree.
The seventh and last requires great attention: to attain it, boil rather longer, dip your finger in as before, if it cracks and does not at all adhere to the teeth in biting, it is done, take from the fire, and it is ready for use for making any kind of sugar ornament.
When intended for such purposes, however, add a little tartaric acid when it arrives to the degree la plume, and pour it into a smaller sugar-pan, allowing it to reach the rims, it will be then, unable to burn round the sides as if in a larger pan; if such a thing should, however, happen in a larger pan, wipe the interior of the pan round with a sponge previously dipped in cold water, or it would discolour the sugar.
Ornaments of spun sugar I have a very great dislike to for a dinner; but, if required, the sugar must be boiled to the last degree. Should the sugar grain, it may be brought back by adding more water, and when dissolved, boiling over again; in spinning sugar you must keep the bulk of it in a warm temperature, having a little in a smaller pan for use, which keep in a melted state, by placing it in a bain-marie of hot water, or in a hot closet.
904. SILK THREAD, or SPUN SUGAR.— Having boiled your sugar to the seventh degree, as in the last, oil the handle of a wooden spoon, tie two forks together, the prongs turned outwards, dip them lightly into the sugar, take out and shake them to and fro, the sugar running from them over the spoon forming fine silken threads, proceeding thus until you have as much as you require, take it from the spoon and form it with your hands into whatever may be directed for the garnishing of any dish, not, however, too thick, or it would look heavy. An experienced hand would prefer doing it from the lip of the sugar-pan.
Other kinds of ornaments from sugar are made in a similar manner by oiling a mould or shape and running threads of the sugar from the lip of the pan over it as tastefully as possible, but as I have not referred to it in this work I will not enter into its details. These are more fit for suppers than dinners.
905. VANILLA ICE CREAM.—Put the yolks of twelve eggs in a stewpan, with half a pound of sugar, beat well together with a wooden spoon, in another stewpan have a quart of milk, and when boiling throw in two sticks of vanilla, draw it from the fire, place on the lid, and let remain until partly cold, pour it over the eggs and sugar in the other stewpan, mix well, and place it over the fire (keeping it stirred) until it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon," when pass it through a tammy into a basin, let remain until cold, then have ready a pewter freezing-pot in an ice-pail well surrounded with ice and salt;* put the above preparation into it, place on the lid, which must fit rather tightly, and commence twisting the pot round sharply, keeping it turned for about ten minutes, when take off the lid, and with your spatula clear the sides of the interior of the pot, place the lid on again, turn the pot ten minutes longer, when again clear the sides and beat the whole well together until smooth, it being then about half frozen, then add four glasses of noyeau or marasquino and a pint and a half of cream well whipped, beat the whole well together, place the lid upon the top, keep twisting it round a quarter of an hour, clear well from the sides, beat again well together, proceeding thus until the whole is frozen into a stiff but smooth and mellow substance; should you require to keep it some time before serving, pour the water which has run from the ice out of the pail, and add fresh ice and salt; when ready to serve work it up smoothly with your spatula, fill the mould, and proceed as No. 847.
906. COFFEE ICE CKEAM.—Proceed exactly as in the last, but omitting the noyeau or marasquino, and making an infusion with coffee as directed (No. 43) instead of vanilla.
907. ICE OF CHOCOLATE is made similar to the vanilla ice-cream, but omitting the vanilla and liqueur, in the room of which scrape a quarter of a pound of chocolate, place it in a stewpan over the fire, and keep stirring until melted, then have ready boiling a quart of milk, which mix with the chocolate by degrees, finish with eggs and sugar, and freeze as before. 908. ICE OF PINEAPPLE.—Procure a rather small pineapple, take off the rind, which reserve, and cut the apple into pieces an inch in length and about the thickness of a quill, place them in a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, set it upon the fire and reduce to a rather thickish syrup, have ready a pint and a half of milk upon the fire, into which, when boiling, throw the rind of the pineapple, cover it over and let infuse ten minutes; in another stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs, to which add the milk by degrees (previously straining it), place over the fire, keeping it stirred until adhering to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammy into a basin, add the syrup and pineapple, and freeze it as in the last, adding a pint and a half of whipped cream; when half frozen, use where directed.
909. LEMON ICE CREAM.—Take the rind from six lemons as thin as possible and free from pith, squeeze the juice of the lemons into a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, place it upon the fire and reduce until rather a thickish syrup, have a pint and a half of milk upon the fire, into which, when boiling, throw the rind of the lemons, cover over and let remain until half cold; in another stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs (to which you have added an ounce of sugar), with which mix the milk by degrees, and stir over the fire till it adheres to the back of the spoon, when stir in the syrup and pass it through a tammy; when cold, freeze as directed (No. 905) adding a pint of whipped cream when half frozen.
910. ORANGE ICE CREAM.—Proceed precisely as in the last, but using the juice and rind of ten oranges instead of lemons as there directed.
911. APRICOT ICE CREAM.—Procure a dozen and a half of fine ripe apricots, which cut in halves, take out the stones, which break, extracting the kernels, which blanch in very hot water, and skin, then put them with the apricots into a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a glassful of water, let them boil until almost forming a marmalade, when put them by in a basin; have the yolks of twelve eggs in a stewpan, with which mix by degrees a pint and a half of milk, set over the fire, keeping it stirred until thick enough to adhere to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammy into a basin, add the syrup and apricots, and, when cold, three glasses of noyeau, freeze as in No. 905, and, when half frozen, add a pint of good whipped cream.
912. STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM.—Procure about two pounds of fine ripe strawberries, which pick and rub through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon, obtaining all the juice and pulp of the strawberries, with which mix half a pound of powdered sugar, and put it by in a basin; in a stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs, with which mix by degrees a pint and a half of milk, stir over the fire until it becomes thickish, adhering to the back of the spoon, pass it through a .tammy, and when cold add the juice from the strawberries, and three glasses of maraschino; freeze it as directed (No. 905), adding a pint of whipped cream when half frozen and sufficiently prepared; cochineal, to give it a strawberry colour, if approved of.
913. MARMALADE OF APPLE.—Peel and cut thirty apples in slices, taking out the cores, and, if for preserving, to every pound of fruit put three-quarters of a pound of broken sugar (but, if for immediate use, half a pound would be quite sufficient), place the whole in a large preserving-pan, with half a spoonful of powdered cinnamon and the rind of a lemon chopped very fine, set the pan over a sharp fire, stirring it occasionally until boiling, when keep stirring until becoming rather thick; it is then done: if for immediate use, a smaller quantity would be sufficient, which put by in a basin until cold; but if to keep any time, put it in jars, which cover over with paper, and tie down until wanted.
914. MARMALADE OF APRICOTS.—Stone about eight pounds of ripe fleshy apricots, break the stones, and blanch and skin the kernels, which with the apricots put into a preserving-pan, add six pounds of sugar and place it over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally until boiling, when keep stirring until becoming rather thick, take it off, put it in jars, and when cold tie paper over, and put by until ready for use.
915. QUINCE JAM PURÉE.—Procure a sieve of fine ripe quinces, which peel and cut in four, taking out the cores, place them in a large preserving-pan and cover with cold water; set upon the fire, and when boiling and tender to the touch, place them in a large sieve to drain one hour, pass them through a tammy, then have ready a corresponding weight of sugar boiled to the sixth degree (No. 903) in the preserving-pan, to which add the puree of quinces, keep stirring over the fire till forming thin sheets, drop a little upon the cover of a stewpan, if it sets quickly take it from the fire, put it in small jars, and let remain a day until quite cold, when tie them down, and put^by until wanted.
916. APRICOT MARMALADE JAM.—Procure a quantity of very ripe apricots, each of which cut into four or six pieces, break the stones and blanch the kernels, put the apricots in a preserving-pan with a small quantity of water, boil them until quite tender, when pass them through a sieve; to every pound of fruit have three-quarters of a pound of sugar (in a preserving-pan) boiled to the sixth degree (No. 903), add the apricots with their kernels, and keep stirring over the fire until forming thin transparent sheets, try when done as in the last, and put away in pots. The marmalade would be still more transparent if you were to peel the apricots first, but then you would lose some of their delicious flavour.
917. MARMALADE OF CHERRIES.—Procure a sieve of bright Kentish cherries, pull out the stalks and stones, and put the fruit in a preserving-pan, place over the fire, keeping it stirred until reduced to two-thirds; have in another preserving-pan, to every pound of fruit, half a pound of sugar boiled to the sixth degree (No. 903), into which pour the fruit when boiling hot, let reduce, keep stirring until you can just see the bottom of the pan, when take it from the fire, and fill your jars as before.
A plainer way is to take off the stalks and stone the fruit, place them in a pan over a sharp fire, and to every pound of fruit add nearly a pound of sugar, keep stirring until reduced as above, and let it get partly cold in the pan before filling the jars.
918. STRAWBERRY JAM.—Pick twelve pounds of very red ripe strawberries, which put into a preserving-pan, with ten pounds of sugar (broken into smallish pieces), place over a sharp fire, keep continually stirring, boiling it until the surface is covered with clearish bubbles; try a little upon a cover, if it sets, fill the jars as before.
919. RASPBERRY JAM.—Pick twelve pounds of raspberries, and pass them through a fine sieve to extract the seeds, boil as many pounds of sugar as you had pounds of fruit to the sixth degree (No. 903), when add the pulp of the fruit, keep stirring over the fire, reducing it until you can just see the bottom of the pan, take it from the fire, and put it into jars as before.
920. JELLY OF APPLE.—Cut six dozen of sound rennet apples in quarters, take out all the pips, put them into a sugar-pan, just cover them with cold water, and place over the fire, let boil until the apples become quite pulpy, when drain them upon a sieve, catching the liquor in a basin, which afterwards pass through a new and very clean jelly-bag; to every pint of liquor have one pound of sugar, which boil to the sixth degree as directed (No. 903); when, whilst hot, mix in the liquor from the apple with a very clean skimmer; to prevent it boiling over keep it skimmed, lift the skimmer occasionally from the pan, and when the jelly falls from it in thin sheets, take it up and fill the pots as before; the smaller pots are the best adapted for jellies.
921. JELLY OF QUINCE.—Proceed exactly as directed in the last, but using quinces instead of apples.
922. SWEETMEAT OF CURRANT JELLY.—Put half a sieve of fine red currants in a large stewpan, with a gallon of white currants and a gallon of raspberries, add a quart of water, place over the fire, keep stirring, to prevent them sticking to the bottom, and let boil about ten minutes, pour them into a sieve to drain, catching the juice in a basin and draining the currants quite dry, pass the juice whilst hot through a clean jelly-bag, have a pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and proceed precisely as directed for apple jelly. Should you have time to pick the currants from the stalks previous to boiling, you would lose that bitter flavour, and have less difficulty in making your jelly clear.
923. CURRANT JELLY is made precisely as in the last, omitting the raspberries, the difference being in the use; the last being adapted for the garnishing of pastry, and this to use for sauces, or to serve with hares, venison, or any other meat, where required.
A more simple method of making currant jelly is to rub the fruit through a sieve, and afterwards squeeze it through a fine linen cloth, put it into a preserving-pan with, to every pint of juice, three quarters of a pound of white sugar; place over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally with a skimmer, keeping it well skimmed; it is done when dropping in sheets as before from the skimmer. For my own part, I prefer this last simple method, being quicker done, and retaining more of the full freshness of the fruit.
It is not my intention to give a description of the various methods of preserving fruits, which belong to the confectionery department; that I shall do in the Letters from the Farm; I have, however, given the few foregoing receipts, they being required for reference from various parts of our work, and being all that are required for the garnishing of dishes for the second-course ; many other fruits may, however, be made into marmalades and jellies by following these few simple directions.
You will perceive, my dear Eloise, that there is no end to the variation of dishing fruits for deserts; I send the following as being more simple than any, and within the reach of almost every individual.
924. SALAD OF ORANGE S—Select four good oranges, the thinnest rind ones are preferable; cut them crosswise into slices double the thickness of a crown-piece, dress them round upon your dish, one piece resting half way upon the other; shake one ounce of sifted sugar over, pour over a good tablespoonful of brandy, and it is ready; to serve it out, put two pieces upon the plate of each guest, with a spoonful of the syrup. Slices of red Malta oranges, dressed alternately with the other, have a pleasing effect. Any kind of liquor may be used, as also might whisky, rum, or that white cream or blue devil commonly called g—; dear me, I quite forget the name.
925. SALAD OF STRAWBERRIES.—Pick the stalks from a pottle of very fine strawberries, which put into a basin with half a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, two glasses of brandy, and an ounce of sifted sugar, toss them lightly over, and dress them in pyramid upon your dish, pouring the syrup over; these should only be dressed a few minutes before serving; the brandy might be omitted. If handy, a glass of maraschino, substituted for brandy, makes them delicious. The small wild strawberry is the best for this dish.
926. SALAD OF PEACHES.—Procure four ripe peaches, which peel and cut into quarters; put them into a basin with two ounces of sugar and a glass of sherry, toss them lightly over, dress upon your dish and serve. Apricots, greengages, and other plums, are dressed in salads in the same manner, leaving their skins on.
927. SALAD OF CURRANTS AND RASPBERRIES. —Put an equal quantity of each, making rather more than a pint, into a basin, with two ounces of powdered sugar-candy, and a little powdered cinnamon, toss them over lightly, and they are ready to serve.
923. PINE APPLES.—I have tried several experiments with the West Indian pine-apples, many of which being rather stale when they arrive here, would make an unsightly appearance whole upon the table, but made into a compote or salad, they are really very excellent, having also the advantage of being very cheap.
For a compote, peel one rather thickly, to leave no black spots upon it, make a syrup with half a pound of sugar, as directed (No. 903), cut your pine-apple into round slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, which put into the syrup, boiling them ten minutes; take them out with a colander-spoon, reduce the syrup until thickish, and pour it over the pine-apple; when cold it is ready to serve.
For a salad, peel and cut a pine-apple into small square dice, which put into a basin with two ounces of sugar-candy (powdered) and a glass of noyeau, toss all well together and serve.
For marmalade, pare and cut into small pieces several small pine-apples, and to every quart thus cut up add one pound of tine sugar, boil for half an hour, and put in a pot.
929. CAKE OF SAVOY IN MOULD.—Have ready a large high mould lightly buttered (with a soft brush, and clarified butter), turn the mould up to drain, and when the butter is quite set throw some finely-sifted sugar into it; move the mould round until the sugar has adhered to every part, after which turn out the superfluous sugar, tie a band of buttered paper round at the top, and place it in a cool place until the mixture is ready. Place the yolks of fourteen eggs in a basin, with one pound of sugar (upon which you have rubbed the rind of two lemons previous to pounding), beat well together with a wooden spoon until nearly white, then whip the whites of the eggs very stiff, add them to the yolks and sugar, with six ounces of flour and six ounces of potato-flour; mix the whole lightly, but well together, and fill the mould rather more than three parts full, place it in a very moderate oven one hour, keeping the oven-door shut; then try when done, as directed in No. 931; if done, takeoff the paper, and turn it out upon a sieve until quite cold. The above mixture, being more delicate than No. 931, would not do so well for removes, but may be used for that purpose by being made three or four days before it is required.
930. SAVOY CAKES, OR LADIES' FINGERS.—Have the weight of nine eggs of sugar in a bowl, which put into a bain-marie of hot water, weigh the same weight of flour, which sift through a wire sieve upon paper, break the eggs into a bowl, and proceed as directed for sponge-cake; then with a paper funnel or bag, with a tin pipe made for that purpose, lay it out upon papers into biscuits three inches in length and the thickness of your little finger, sift sugar over, shaking off all that does not adhere to them; place them upon baking-sheets, and bake in rather a warm oven of a brownish-yellow colour, when done and cold, detach them from the paper by wetting it at the back, place them a short time to dry, and they are ready for use for charlotte russe, or wherever directed.
931. SPONGE CAKE.—Put one pound of powdered sugar in a good-sized bowl, which stand in a bain-marie of hot water; gift one pound of flour upon a sheet of paper, then break twelve eggs into the bowl with the sugar, which whisk rather quickly until they become a little warm and rather thickish, then take the bowl from the bain-marie, and continue whisking until nearly or quite cold; then add the chopped rind of a lemon and the flour, which mix lightly with a wooden spoon; have ready your mould or baking-dish lightly buttered, into which you have put a little flour, knocking out all that does not adhere to the butter, pour in the mixture and place it one hour in a moderate oven, it may require longer or not so long, but that will depend entirely upon the compass you have it in; if done, it will feel firm to the touch, but the surest method is to run a thin wooden skewer into the centre; if it comes out clean, the cake is done, but if not some of the mixture would adhere to it; care should be taken not to disturb it until quite set, or it would sink in the centre, and never properly bake; when done, turn it out upon a sieve to cool. Serve where indicated.
932. SMALL SPONGE CAKES.—Put six whole eggs into an earthen pan with half a pound of sugar, upon which you have previously rubbed the rind of a lemon, stand the pan in very hot water, keeping its contents well mixed until becoming rather warm, when take it from the water, continuing to whisk until quite cold and thickish, stir in gently half a pound of sifted flour, have ready buttered, and dusted with sugar, about a dozen small sponge-cake tins, put a tablespoonful of the mixture into each, shake sugar over, and bake them in a moderate oven.
933. POUND CAKES.—Put one pound of butter into an earthen pan with a pound of powdered sugar, and a little grated nutmeg, beat them well together with the hand until forming a smooth lightish cream, when add by degrees eight eggs, beating it for ten minutes after, then add a pound and a quarter of sifted flour, stir it in lightly, and put the mixture into hoops to bake.
934. QUEEN'S CAKES.—Weigh of butter the weight of six eggs, and nine of powdered sugar, which put together in an earthen pan, beat well with the hand until forming a smooth cream, when add by degrees nine eggs, and when well beat, stir in the weight of nine eggs of flour and half a pound of currants; have ready buttered about a dozen little round cake pans, fill each one rather better than three parts full with the mixture, shake sugar over, and bake them in a moderate oven. If no cake pans, drop the mixture upon paper in pieces half the size of a walnut, and an inch and a half apart, shake sugar over, bake in a warm oven, and, when done, remove them from the papers.
935. ALMOND CAKES.—Procure one pound of ground almonds, to which add two pounds of powdered sugar, mixing the whole with the whites of nine eggs, beating the mixture well with a wooden spoon for about ten minutes, lay them out upon wafer paper of an oval shape with a tablespoon, put three or four strips of almonds upon the top of each, and bake them in a slow oven; when done, break away all the wafer paper but that which adheres to the bottom of the cake, and, when cold, they are ready for use.
936. COCOA-NUT BISCUITS, -Scrape four cocoa-nuts, to which add the same weight of powdered sugar, mix with whites of eggs, beating with a wooden spoon until forming a softish but thick paste; lay the mixture out upon wafer-paper in small drops, baking them as directed in the last.
937. MOSS BISCUITS.—Weigh half a pound of flour, to which add an ounce and a half of butter and five ounces of sugar, rub them well together, and mix with one whole and one white of egg and a teaspoonful of milk; then add two ounces of ground almonds, which rub well into the paste; afterwards rub the whole through a gauze wire sieve, taking it off in small pieces, which lay upon a lightly buttered baking-sheet, and bake them in a moderate oven.
938. ROUT CAKES.—Procure one pound of ground almonds, to which add one pound of powdered sugar, mixing them together with yolks of eggs until forming a stiffish but flexible paste, when form it into small biscuits of the shapes of coronets, bunches of filberts, birds' nests, or any other shapes your fancy may dictate; let them remain five or six hours, or all night, upon the baking-sheet, and bake them in a warm oven.
939. ROUT BISCUITS.—Boil a pound and a quarter of lump sugar, upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon, in half a pint of milk; when cold, rub half a pound of butter with two pounds of flour, make a hole in the centre, pour in the milk with as much carbonate of soda as would he upon a sixpence, and a couple of eggs, mix the whole into a smooth paste, lay it out upon your baking-sheet in whatever flat shapes you please, and bake them in a very warm oven.
The proper way to shape these biscuits is by wooden blocks having leaves, pine-apples, and other devices carved upon them.
940. CREAM BISCUITS.—Rub one pound of fresh butter into one pound of flour, make a hole in the centre, into which put half a pound of powdered sugar, upon which the rind of a lemon was rubbed previously to pounding, and three whole eggs; mix the eggs well with the sugar, and then mix altogether, forming a flexible paste; cut it into round pieces each nearly as large as a walnut, stamp them flat with a butter-stamp of the size of a crown-piece, and bake them in a slack oven.
941. SHREWSBURY CAKES—Weigh one pound of flour, into which rub half a pound of butter and six ounces of sugar, make a hole in the centre, into which break a couple of eggs, and add sufficient milk to form a flexible paste, which roll out to the thickness of a penny-piece, and cut it into small cakes with a round cutter; bake them in a moderate oven.
Ginger Cakes are made precisely as the above, but adding half an ounce of ground ginger before mixing; and Cinnamon Cakes, by rubbing in an ounce and a half of ground cinnamon after the paste is mixed.
942. MACAROONS.—Blanch and skin half a pound of sweet almonds, dry them well in your screen, then put them into a mortar with a pound and a half of lump sugar, pound well together, and pass the whole through a wire sieve; put it again into a mortar, with the whites of two eggs, mix well together with the pestle, then add the white of another egg, proceeding thus until you have used the whites of about eight eggs and made a softish paste, when lay them out at equal distances apart, upon wafer-paper, in pieces nearly the size of walnuts, place some strips of almonds upon the top, sift sugar over, and bake in a slow oven of a yellowish brown colour; they are done when set quite firm through.
943. RATAFIAS.—Ratafias are made similar to the above, but deducting two ounces of sweet, and adding two ounces of bitter almonds; they are laid out in much smaller cakes upon common paper, and baked in a much warmer oven; when cold, they may be taken off the paper with the greatest ease.
These cases are very serviceable in making a great many second-course dishes.
944. ITALIAN DROPS.—Have a mixture similar to the above, with merely a liqueur glassful of best noyeau, lay it in round drops upon paper, and bake in a hot oven without sifting any sugar over; when taken from the papers, dry them a little in the screen, and they are ready to serve.
The bottoms may be spread over with apricot marmalade, and two stuck together just previous to being served, if approved of.
945. BOLA D'AMOUR—LOVE CAKE.—Take the yolks of eggs, as many as are required for the dish (about twelve), and beat them up in a pan with an equal weight of sugar, the same as sponge cakes, using any kind of liquor or essence for flavouring. When the mixture is beaten up light and got thick, have ready some clarified butter in a stewpan, made hot enough for frying. Pour the mixture into a funnel having a small bore or pipe, and let it run into the hot butter, turning the hand while it is running, so that it may be formed into threads all over the surface of the pan. In about two minutes it will be done, when it should be taken out with a skimmer, and be placed on the dish for serving, garnishing it with any kind of preserve, and serve cold.
Another way is, to beat up the eggs with some liquor, and run it into some boiling syrup at the blow.
946. THE QUEEN VICTORIA'S CAKE.—To three-quarters of a pound of flour, add half an ounce of German yeast, mixed with warm water until forming a stiff paste, and place it in a stewpan, and let it stand by the fire or oven until well risen, during which time the butter must be well worked until soft, adding fl quarter of a pound of flour more and five eggs gradually, and beat them well together; when done, if the leaven is well risen, add to it one and a-half pound of raisins, with a little salt and sugar; let it stand in the mould for a short time, and bake it in a slow oven.
947. COTTAGE CAKE.—Procure from a baker half a quartern of dough, which put into an earthen pan; melt in a stewpan half a pound of either fresh or salt butter; mix both well with the hand, adding half a pound of sugar; add to it half a pound of currants well washed, one and a-half pound of plums, and a teaspoonful of mixed spice; when well mixed, place it in a hoop or pan before the fire; let it rise for one hour, and send it to be baked; it will take about one hour in a slow oven.
948. WEST INDIAN CAKE.—Proceed as above for the ingredients; then add a quarter of a pound of preserved West Indian ginger, cut in small dice, and four spoonfuls of brandy, and two teaspoonfuls of dry grated ginger; bake as above.
949. ELETHERIAN PINE APPLE CAKE. —Take three-quarters of a pound of pine apple, not over ripe, peel it; place half a pound of white sugar in a pan, with half a pint of water, boil till a thick syrup; cut the pine in small dice of a quarter of an inch, and pour the syrup over; and, when nearly cold, add to it the dough, which has previously been mixed with three-quarters of a pound of butter and two eggs; let it rise in a hoop as above, and bake in the same way: a glass of rum may be added.
Royal St. James's Cake.
June 16, 1849.
My Dear Eloise,—Though you did not expect to hear from me again today, after the manuscript I forwarded to you, it is quite an unexpected circumstance that makes me write now, therefore you must know, dear, that, through very great interest, I had this day the honour and pleasure to witness one of the most interesting sights which England alone, at the present time, can boast of. Not to tantalize your womanly curiosity, I shall, without delay, tell you that it was a juvenile entertainment, given by the liberal and indefatigable manager of the St. James's Theatre, Mr. Mitchell, under the roof of which house he had the honour of entertaining the Crown of Great Britain, the blooming buds of the Royal Family, supported by the rising branches of the aristocracy, all with elegant bouquets, and possessing joyful faces, caused by the excellent entertainment the intelligent proprietor provided to gratify their infantine ideas. Nearly three hundred in number seemed to join their happiness with that of the Prince of Wales, Prince Alfred, the Princess Royal, and the Princess Alice, under the superintendence of her Most Gracious Majesty, and their august father, Prince Albert, who, in a homely and happy family manner, seemed, for the time, to have forgotten their mortal grandeur in joining the youthful happiness of those lovely children, who, in time, will be the ornament and pride of England. Knowing, by study, that pleasure, and satisfaction of mind, in any state of life, increase or create appetite, especially upon children, on arriving at home, feeling rather tired, I lay down on a couch, and took a short repose; but being full of the pleasing sight I had just witnessed, and my imagination lately so involved with gastronomy, it caused me to dream that, by special order, I was to make a monster cake for the luncheon of those lovely children, which they were to partake of after their terpiscolyridramacomic festivity; to my ephemeral ideas, the cake was made, and the table laid in a vast room, where gradations of chairs and tables were erected in a demi-circle, at the top of which the branches of the royal family were gracefully sitting, and surrounded, according to rank, by the other juveniles; the banqueting-hall seemed to me like the theatre, decorated all over with festoons of natural flowers; the different tables were surcharged with every description of delicacy; fruit, ices, effervescent refreshment of all kinds were provided; every child seemed to be waited on by their noble parents, her Majesty leading them to follow her maternal affection, When grace was invoked, I was appointed to cut and distribute the monster cake, which, to my present recollection, was no less than four feet in height, three wide, and most beautifully ornamented with all kinds of bon-bons, small-fruits, pistaches, &c. Having reached the centre platform, where that supposed chef-d'oeuvre of cake was exhibited and gazed at by the widely-opened eyes of the youthful multitude, I was just in the act of raising the knife which was placed there for me to cut it with, when my hand all at once was seized as if by magic, to prevent me from doing so. After a deep sigh, I awoke, and perceived it was my younger boy Raphael pulling me by the arm, saying, "Mamma, the dinner is ready!" Though much annoyed with the sudden disappearance of such a fairy scene, I could not find it in my heart to scold him for his innocent interference with my enchanted illusion; but, as far as recollection serves me from a dream, I perfectly recollect all the delicate ingredients which I supposed I had put in it; therefore, if you want to make a small one, proceed as follows:950. ST. JAMES'S CAKE.—Put one pound of very fresh butter in a good-size kitchen basin, and with the right hand work it up well till it forms quite a white cream; then add one pound powdered sugar, mix well, add ten eggs by degrees; put to dry a pound and a quarter of flour, which mix as lightly as possible with it; branch and cut in slices two ounces of pistachios, two ditto of green preserved angelica, add two liqueur glasses of noyeau, two drops of essence of vanilla; whip a gill and a half of cream till very thick, mix lightly with a wooden spoon, have a mould made the shape of the drawing, put it in, and send to the baker; it will take about one hour and a quarter to bake; ornament as represented in the subjoined cut:
ST. JAMES'S CAKE.
You will perceive, my dear, that my ideas are more extravagant in my sleep than when awake, but pray consider who was to partake of it.' > In case you do not succeed at first, I intend to give the receipt to Mr. Purcell, of Cornhill, who will make it to perfection for you.
THE DINNER-TABLE.
My Dear Eloise,—I thank you for your kind compliment, but I have always been of opinion that the arrangements and serving of a dinner table have as much to do with the happiness and pleasure of a party as the viands which are placed upon it; this I had a practical proof of last week. Mr. B. and myself were invited to dine with Mr. D., a city friend, at Balham Hill; I had before met Mrs. D. at an evening party at his partner's, at Hackney, and knew but little of her.
Dinner was served pretty punctually, only half an hour after time. On my entrance in the room my first glance at the table showed me that there was a want of savoir-faire in its management; the plate, very abundant and splendid, was of so yellow a cast that it looked as if it were plated, and the cut glass was exceedingly dim. My first surprise was that there were no napkins, the next the soup plates were quite cold, which I have found often the case in other houses ; after being served with fish, and waiting until it was cold for the sauce to eat with it, I was rather sceptical how the rest of the dinner would progress. After the first, the second course made its appearance, which was heavy and too abundant; the plain things were well done, but there was only one servant in the room for the whole party of fourteen, and from the strict formality of the table, it would have been a sacrilege to have handed your plate for any vegetables, or anything else you might require. There were four saltcellars, certainly very massive silver ones, at each corner of the table, and a beautiful cruet-frame in the centre; the hot dishes of this course, like the previous one, became cold and tasteless before being eaten, and during the time the servant was serving the champagne all the plates were empty; in fact it was a good dinner spoilt. The wine drank with less gout than usual, and the long pauses between the courses made the formality appear still greater than it really was, and made you wish for the time to arrive for the cloth to be removed, which was not done, only the slips, a most awkward undertaking for one servant, and should never be practised unless having at least two.
About half an hour after the cloth was removed, and just as the conversation was being thawed from the freezing it received at the dinner table, Mrs. D. and the ladies withdrew, and for an hour and a half we had to bear the insipid conversation of the drawing-room, the hissing urn on the tea-table bearing a prominent part. Several messages were sent from time to time to the dining-room that coffee was ready; and when at last the gentlemen came, two had had quite wine enough, which caused them to receive sundry angry looks from their wives who were present, and who were glad to get them into their carriages which were waiting, and right glad indeed was I when ours was announced.
This all happened, my dear Eloise, not from meanness; for if money could have purchased it nothing would have been wanting, but solely from want of management; and every one should think before they invite their friends to partake of their hospitality if they know how to entertain them. Money of course will provide delicacies of all kinds, but to know how to dispose of those delicacies to the best advantage that your friends may appreciate them, is what is sadly wanting in more than one house I visit.
A very excellent remark is made in this week's Punch* by Mr. Brown, in his Letters to a Young Man about town on the subject of great and little dinners. He says: "Properly considered, the quality of the dinner is twice blest; it blesses him that gives, and him that takes; a dinner with friendliness is the best of all friendly meetings—a pompous entertainment, where no love is, is the least satisfactory."
Our dinner on which you compliment me so much, we sat down twelve, for although the room and table would accommodate more, yet as my service of plate is for that number, and the arrangements of the kitchen are limited, that is the number I prefer, besides beyond which the conversation becomes partial, which is the bane of a dinner-table. You know we have no regular man-servant, but for these occasions I hire two, and place one on each side the table, and they each have their own side table with a change of everything that is required. The first thing to be looked to is the lights: these ought to be so placed as not to intercept the view of any person at the table, but at the same time they ought to be enough to show everything off to advantage; I prefer removing some of the lights from the table to the sideboard when the cloth is removed, as the light after dinner ought to be more subdued. In laying the cloth, we place it over the baize and remove it after dinner, as Mr. B. says he likes to see the mahogany, for when he asks a City friend to come and put his feet under his mahogany, it looks rather foolish if he never sees it. I have, as you know, my table rather wide, that is, six feet, and I generally place a vase of flowers in the centre, as I think their freshness and odour add greatly to the appearance of the table, and admit a flanc on each side. We prefer the old English plan of taking the top and bottom of the table instead of I and Mr. B. being together at the side.
The cloth being laid with its proper side uppermost, I order a napkin, two knives, two prongs, two tablespoons, and two wine glasses to be placed to each person, a saltcellar between every other, that being a condiment which every one uses, though often wrongly; the cruet-frames and other requisites are kept on the sideboards. I then have the fish and soup served together, the potatoes and sauce on the sideboard; I serving the soup, and Mr. E. the fish, and often a little dish of fried fish, such as smelts, &c., to remove the soups. This gives me an opportunity of seeing that my guests are properly attended to, and also leisure of taking wine with any gentleman who challenges me. During the time this course has been progressing, the cook has had time to dish up the removes nice and hot, and get all up close to the door, as I like as little time as possible to intervene in changing the dishes; and these consist generally of variously dressed chickens, which I have before me, as this gives an opportunity for the gentleman on my right to display his gallantry; but, thanks to Soyer's separator, this is an easy task: it also affords me still further leisure to pay attention to my guests. Mr. B., who is a capital carver, either has a saddle or a haunch of mutton, or a quarter of lamb before him, the rest of the dishes consisting of a tongue and entrees. I select those most easy to carve, and also easy for the cook to prepare. This is a period of dinner where a great deal depends upon the attendants; they should know almost by the look what this lady or that gentleman require, and what kind of vegetables to hand them; a first-rate butler should be able to judge by the physiognomy to whom he should offer mint sauce with the lamb, and who prefers cayenne; on their attention and hot plates depends the success of the substantial part of the dinner.
As soon as I see that all are served, and words are few in consequence of the organs which utters them being employed in another way, I give a look to the two servants which they understand, and immediately two reports are heard—they are from two bottles of champagne, opened at the same time by the attendants, who have each a salver with six glasses on it; this takes but a short time to serve, and prepares the palate for the entrees, which generally get praised; indeed, my cook would think something was wrong if two of the dishes did not go down empty. By having the champagne thus, I find it goes much further than if only one bottle was opened at the time, there being sufficient left in the bottles for a gentleman to challenge a lady to take champagne with him. If I have game I remove the top and bottom dishes with them, and make the sweets a separate course, taking care to have cold plates for the jelly, and having the liquors handed round when the sweets are on the table; one cheese I place opposite Mr. B., and macaroni opposite myself. Objections have been made to the use of napkins, as being of no service at an English dinner-table, and only a copy of the dirty manners of our neighbours. If we are more cleanly at the table than they are, (which I question), there is no reason why we should not use that which would make us still more so; but Mr. B. is so pleased with the rose water which he has at the court dinners of his company, that he made me a present of those two beautiful dishes which you admired so much. The outside compartment holds rose water, and the inner one a little eau-de-cologne; these are placed on salvers, and passed down each side of the table, the corner of each napkin being dipped into it. They seem to be absolutely required, and I must say they form a delightful adjunct to the dinner-table.
Mr. B.* has also introduced at our table, but only at Christmas, another city custom, which the gentlemen seem very much to like,—I cannot say so for the ladies; it is what he calls the loving cup; he has it placed before him when the cheese is put on; and after filling the glass of the lady on each side of him, he rises and drinks to their health and the rest of the company, and then passes it to the gentleman on the left, who in like manner, fills the glass of the lady on his left, rises, drinks to her health and the company, and thus it goes round the table. Your husband, my dear Eloise, thought that the contents were exceedingly good; or, as he expressed it, nectar fit for the gods, and would like to have the receipt—here it is as Mr. B. prepares it:—
Loving Cup.—The cup holds two quarts: he places in it half a teacupful of capillaire; if he has none he uses dissolved lump sugar, with a few drops of orange-flower water in it, one pint of brown sherry, one bottle of good Edinburgh ale, mixing these together, and a minute before placing on the table, adding one bottle of soda water,† stirring it well up till it froths, he then grates some nutmeg on the froth, and places a piece of toast in it, and sends it to the table with a napkin through the handle of the cup. I must say, since we have had this, it has produced some most interesting conversation as regarded the antiquity of the custom, &c. In addition, Mr. B. bought the cup at a sale, and it is stated to have been drunk out of by Henry the Eighth: this of itself is a subject of conversation, and draws out the talents and conversational powers of our guests, and one in which ladies can join, as there is hardly one of our sex who has not read Miss Strickland's "Queens of England." You have often made the remark, that the time always appears short whilst we are at table ; this is, no doubt, from the animated conversation which is kept up, for that is the real motive of meeting together, to enjoy the conversation of one another, to gain and impart information, and amuse ourselves with the wit and talent of those around us, and not for the sake of eating and drinking; yet without the assistance of both of these, the most sparkling wit would be as heavy as a bad souffle, and the brightest talent as dull as my looking-glass on a foggy day.
In order to prolong the time, and to enjoy the gentleman's society as much as possible, I do not have the dessert placed on the table until ten or twenty minutes after the cloth is removed; this gives an opportunity for my guests to admire the beautiful Sevres dessert plates, containing views of different French chateaux; this of course gives a subject for conversation to those who have visited them. In the dessert I generally introduce some new importation, such as bananas, sugar-cane, American lady apples, prickly pears, &C. ; these also give a subject for the gentlemen to talk about when the ladies have left, as free trade, colonial policy, &c. About half an hour after the dessert is on the table, and when I see that the conversation is becoming less general, I retire to the drawing-room; the servants then remove the used glass and plates, and Mr. B. introduces some of his choice Claret or Burgundy in ice coolers.
You know, my dear Eloise, I allow very little more than half an hour for us to talk about the last new fashions, or of Mrs. A. and B.'s cap, and the young ones about their partners at the last ball, and other nothings, when the tea and coffee are brought up on salvers; it is always made down stairs, and sent up in cups to the drawing-room, although Mr. B. had a very handsome silver service presented to him just after we were married, for serving as an honorary secretary to some grand masonic festival, yet the milk ewer and sugar basin are all I allow in the room. This does away with the formality of the tea-table and the hissing of the tea-urn; it allows some young gentleman with a Byron collar and a little down under his chin to turn over the pages of a music-book for a young lady at the piano, and take his coffee at the same time; it allows my dear mamma and Mr. P. to make up their whist table, and have their tea whilst playing; or if we make up a quadrille, to have a few turns of a waltz or polka, the coffee is serving during the time; whilst this is going on the hand of the clock advances, and half past ten soon arrives, and with it Mrs. C.'s fly; Dr. D.'s brougham is at the door; the party breaks up, delighted with the evening they have passed in each other's society: and this you see done with trifling management.
Dearest Eloise,—You are right in your remark, that there is a great difference as to the manner and way in which evening parties or soirees are given in different houses, although being frequented by the same party or circle. I must say I have my own ideas on this subject, and I think the French understand this matter much better than we do, and that we could not do better than imitate them. We English are a plodding, matter-of-fact people, and carry our notions into every concern in life: our dinners and entertainments are given with an ulterior object, and with a view of what may be gained from it, even from the charitable dinner at the London Tavern to the man who asks another to partake a crust of bread and cheese and a pint of beer with him at a public-house. It is this feeling, together with the ostentation, which is the bane of society, by bringing together people of incongruity of ideas, and destroying that free exchange of thought which constitutes the true pleasure of social reunions. We are also naturally of a reserved and cautious disposition: hence the reason why the pleasures of a Soiree are not felt until after supper. For these I am a great advocate, though not to the extravagant and outre manner so many are given at the present day. Of course in the way most ladies are now educated, they would rather be attending to the adornment of their persons for the occasion than to the entertainment and amusement of their guests. Those who can afford it, are quite right to patronise a first-rate confectioner, and thus save themselves the trouble; but how many that cannot afford to do the same thing, and make a bargain for a bad supper, by which they gain but little, and cause the guests great disgust, instead of preparing it at home, and ordering a few good things which would look and eat well. There are a variety of drinks which could be made at a moderate expense, good and wholesome; and infinitely better than bad Marsala, which you are often obliged to partake of. I will enclose you a few receipts for them, and some bills of fare for suppers for small soirees, not such as described in Mr. Pips his Diary a few weeks since.
Notes:
[*] To freeze quickly any description of ice, the freezing-pot must be well set; place it in the centre of the pail, which must be large enough to give a space of four inches all round, break up small twelve pounds of ice, which put round at the bottom six inches in depth, over which put two pounds of salt, beat down tight with a rolling-pin, then more ice, then salt, proceeding thus until within three inches of the top of your freezing-pot; saltpetre mixed with the salt will facilitate it in freezing.
[*] July, 1849
[*] With regard to the wine, that is a matter I leave entirely to Mr. B., but his maxim is, that "the best is the cheapest."
[†] Soyer's nectar, instead of soda water, is an improvement.