Alexis Soyer's Part 12: Second-course Roasts
Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Alexis Soyer's Part 12 (Second-course Roasts) Page — Here you will find the full text from the twelfth section: Second-course Roasts of Alexis Soyer's Modern Housewife or Ménagère As well as the full text this page also provides links out to the overall index of the book and links to modern redactions of each and every recipe (where practicable). This site builds a complete library of Eliza Acton recipes, allowing the modern cook to make them at home today. Enjoy...
ROASTS—SECOND COURSE.
These dishes consist almost always of game, which require to be sent up immediately they are taken from the fire, and require great care and attention in cooking them. In the following pages will be found many which are scarce and rarely seen in London, and never mentioned in our various cookery books; but considering that many of our friends reside in the country, I have written it for them.
606. TURKEY POULTS—Turkey poults, so called from being used when about the size of a large pullet, are always roasted and trussed with the legs turned at the first joint, and the feet pressing upon the thighs, the neck is skinned, and the head fixed under the wing; roast them the same as directed for turkeys, about twenty-five minutes or half an hour, according to their size, and in the same modes, but they are usually served, one larded and the other barded, with gravy and water-cresses in the dish.
607. ROAST CAPON WITH CRESSES.—Roast and serve a capon in any of the ways directed for turkeys, roast of a nice gold colour, and serve with water-cresses round; a capon weighing five pounds requires about three quarters of an hour to roast. Poularde au cresson exactly as above.
608. ROAST PULLET.—For a dinner of four entrées you would require two fowls, but not too large; truss and roast them as directed for a turkey, judging the time required according to their size, and serve with gravy and water-cresses; they may be larded, barded, or served in any way mentioned in the foregoing receipts. A fowl weighing two pounds and a half would require half an hour roasting, or three quarters of an hour if larger.
609. SPRING CHICKENS are served like fowls, generally plain roasted, but they may be larded as the poularde. Be particular in tying the legs upon paper to the spit, as directed for the turkey, as it so improves their appearance when roasted. About twenty minutes would be sufficient to roast them.
610. GOSLINGS.—A green goose roasted plain and served with a little gravy is generally sent up for second courses; but if the larger ones are used they must be stuffed with sage and onions, but very few would choose such a thing for a roast second course, whilst green geese in their season are great favourites; truss them by cutting off the leg at the first joint, and the wing at the first pinion, fixing them at the side with skewers to throw the breast up; a full grown goose will take one hour to roast, but a green one not more than half an hour.
611. DUCKLINGS make a very favourite roast in the London season; they must have good fillets, white and plump, and require to be a little more underdone than any other description of poultry; if too much done, the fat catches, and gives a rank flavour to the flesh, besides causing the fillets to eat dry. They are usually served plain roasted for a second course, yet I have served them differently on some occasions for the sake of variety, but it must be with a very thin sauce and one that invigorates the palate, although they never can be better than when served plain roasted. Truss them by twisting the legs at the first joint and resting the feet upon the thighs, cut the wing off at the pinion, and run a skewer through the bird, fixing the pinion and legs with it, place them upon a spit, and roast twenty minutes.
612. GUINEA FOWLS.—These birds must be very young, for, being naturally very dry, they are not eatable if more than twelve months old; they are generally larded or barded, and served plain roasted, rather well done; they are trussed like the common fowls, and require nearly three quarters of an hour to roast.
613. PEA FOWLS.—These magnificent birds make a noble roast, and when young are very excellent; they are larded, or plain roasted, and served with the tail feathers which have been preserved, stuck into the bird, the head, with its feathers on, being left folded up in paper, and tucked under the wing; roast about an hour and a half, take the paper from the head and neck, dress it upon your dish with water-cresses, and the gravy and bread-sauce separate in a boat.
GAME (CHOICE OF).—There is no article of food that is so deceiving in appearance to know if it is young, tender, and good, or not, as game; to any one residing in London, and dealing with a respectable tradesman, it matters little, as old or bad game is rarely sent to London, it not being worth the carriage; but to a person living in the country, where a member of the family has shot them in his day's sport or have been received as presents, a knowledge how to distinguish them is requisite. Young birds may be distinguished by the softness of their quills; females will eat better than males, they are more tender and juicy. Old pheasants are known by the length and sharpness of their spurs, in young ones they are short and blunt.—Old partridges before Christmas have light blue legs, instead of yellow-brown.—Wild fowl may be known to be old from their bills and the stiffness of the sinews of the legs, those that have the finest plumage are the worst eating.—Hares and rabbits: try if the ear will easily tear and the jaw-bone break between the finger and the thumb, if not they are only fit for soup or jugging.—On receiving birds of all kinds, put in their mouths three or four peppercorns bruised and one clove of garlic, and pepper the place where shot. In case you receive many, tie a piece of paper to them with the date on which they were received.
614. PHEASANTS.—At the present day there are great varieties of these birds, which differ as much in their flavour as their plumage. There are also a large quantity of hybrids sold in the London market as a genuine pheasant, and it is impossible to know them when plucked. The flavour of the bird will depend in a great measure on the nature of the country where it is killed.
Have them prepared and trussed: put them about eighteen inches from the fire for five minutes, then draw them close, and roast as quickly as possible, rubbing them all over with an ounce of butter pressed in a wooden spoon, serve up with bread sauce separate, and good gravy under. They are also good larded, or one larded and the other barded.
615. PARTRIDGES.— The red-legged in this country are not so fine in flavour as the gray; they are dressed like the pheasant, but all the time at a very quick fire, and served very hot from the spit; it is better to wait a minute or two for it than to have it wait for you; dish it up with a little made gravy with it, and bread-sauces, as above.
616. GROUSE.—We have three kinds in this country; namely, black, red, and white. The first, the Black Grouse, is called the Black Cock (le Coq de Bruyere). The female in the north is called the Gray Hen, but in the south of England male and female are called Heath Poults.
These birds should be well kept, trussed like a fowl for roasting, and served with brown gravy under, or may be dressed as follows: truss as before, covering the breast with vine leaves and fat bacon, which tie on; roast from half to three quarters of an hour according to size, and serve with toast under, and melted butter over.
617. RED GROUSE, GORCOCK, or MOORCOCK (the common Moor Gamel'Attagas).—Trussed like a fowl for roasting, which cook quick before a sharp fire, serve with toasted bread under.
618. WHITE GROUSE or PTARMIGAN (le Lagopède).—The birds are perfectly white; they now arrive in the London market from February to May; from Sweden and Norway, packed in ice: they have rather a strong flavour of the pine; but when young and tender, are good eating. They are to be trussed like the above, and plain roasted, and served with toast under and fried bread-crumbs, separate, or dressed as follows :—Put two spoonfuls of currant jelly in a stewpan, with the juice of a lemon and a little salt dissolved in it; when melted, pour over and serve.
There is another sort of grouse, known as the Wood Grouse or Capercailzie; these are rare in this country; I have occasionally received a few from Scotland. These are to be plain roasted, and served as the above.
619. WILD DUCKS (Canard Sauvage).—The male is called the Mallard, and the young one Flapper. Under the above title a great many birds are sold.
They should all be cooked alike; they must be kept two or three days before they are dressed; they are trussed by twisting each leg at the knuckle, and resting the claws on each side of the breast, fixing them with a skewer run through the thighs and pinions of the wings; rub the liver over the breast, roast them before a quick fire from fifteen to twenty minutes, baste with butter, not basting them when first put down will keep the gravy in; one should be better done than the other, in order to suit the taste of those at table; serve with made gravy under, and a lemon separate.
620. CANVAS BACK DUCK.—A friend of mine gave me some of these delicate birds from America, but which were already cooked and preserved in tins. I could not speak very highly of them, being to my fancy too much done; but I believe they now arrive in England packed in ice. They have a gray plumage.
They should be cooked like wild duck, but nearer the fire, the fat being so delicate that it requires to be cooked quickly; good plain gravy is all that is required to make them perfect.
The following is a list of those ducks fit to be eaten :—Golden Eye Duck (le Garrot, or Piedcurre); Gray Duck (le Chipeau); Morillon, or Gurgling Curries; in Scotland, Douckers (le Morillon); Pintailed Duck or Winter Duck, Sea Pheasant or Cracker (le Canard a longue queue); Scaup Duck, Gray-back Curre and Teal Drake (le Vignons); Shoveller, or Kertlutock, or Broadbilled Duck on the east coast, Becks and Scopper-bills (le Souchet). There is also a variety called the Red-breasted Shoveller, which we receive in London from Holland about Christmas; the flesh of this bird is superior to that of the common wild duck, the wing can be eaten with the breast; Tufted Duck, or Blue-billed Curries and Dowers (le petit Morillon): there are other birds of this species, but not fit to be eaten, as the Black Duck or Scoter (la Macreuse); Burrough Duck or Sheldrake (le Tadorne); the young ones may be eaten; Eider Duck, St. Cuthbert's, or Great Black and White Duck (l'Eider); Long-tailed Duck or Swallow-tailed Sheldrake (Canard de Miclon); Velvet Duck, Great Black Duck or Double Scoter (le grande Macreuse).
621. WIDGEON, WHEWER, OR WHIM (le Canard Siffleur).—These should be eaten fresher than a wild duck, trussed, dressed, and served the same; fifteen minutes is sufficient before a good fire.
622. DUNBIRD, POCHARD, OR GREAT-HEADED WIDGEON (Pénélope, le Millouin). — In some parts Red Heads, Parkers, or Half Birds. These are dressed as above, but not so good as the Widgeon.
623. TEAL (la petite Sarcelle).—This is a delicious bird when fat, which they generally are after a frost. They must be trussed with care like ducklings; they will take about eight minutes to roast; serve with gravy, water-cresses, and lemon, separate, about six on a dish; or with sauces Nos. 146, 148.
624. GARGANEY (la Sarcelle).—These are called Summer Teal, resemble it in shape, and are dressed the same way.
625. PLOVER.—Of these there are several sorts, all of which are good to eat at certain seasons. They are, the Great Plover, or Norfolk Plover, or Thick-kneed Bustard, or Stone Curlew (le grand Pluvier). The young of these are the best eating in September' —Bastard Plover, or Lapwing, or Peewit (le Vanneau). This one we get the eggs from; they are good in the winter. We get them from the South Downs, but they are much finer in France, where there is a proverb—" Qui n'a pas mange de vanneau, ne sait pas ce que gibier vaut."—Golden Plover (le Pluvier dore); Gray Plover (le Vanneau Pluvier); Dotterel (le Guignard); Ring Dotterel, Ring Plover, or Sea Lark (le petit Pluvier a collier); Long-legged Plover or Longshanks, or Sanderling (l'Echasse). The Golden and Large Dotterel are the best to eat.
They should be well kept, but not too long, trussed gently, but not drawn, and put on a skewer, place them a little distance from a sharp fire, with a bit of toast under to catch the trail, baste with a little good butter, ten minutes is sufficient; dress them with toast under, and serve with gravy separate. They may also be served barded with vine leaves and very thin bacon. 626. WOODCOCK (la Bécasse).—This is a most delicious bird when well cooked; they must not be kept too long; they are fit for cooking when they become black between the legs, and the feathers are rather loose; truss them with the legs twisted at the knuckles, and the feet pressing upon the thighs, bring the pinion of the wing to the thigh, having previously skinned the neck and head; bring the beak round under the wing, which pass through the pinions of the wings and thighs. Place four on a skewer, tie them on a spit, and roast before a sharp fire from ten to fifteen minutes, placing toast under to catch the trail; when done, serve on the toast and a very little gravy: they may also be barded with thin slices of bacon over the breast, and served with a sauce fumet de gibier.
627. SNIPES.—Of these we have the Great or Solitary Snipe, (la grande Bécassine); the Common Snipe, Snite, or Heather Bleater, (la Bécassine); the Jack Snipe, Judcock, Jetcock, or Gid, (la petite Bécassine). The last is the best eating, and the hen better than the cock, although that is generally sent as a present from its beautiful plumage. They are dressed in every respect like Woodcocks; and from seven to ten minutes is sufficient. They may likewise be fried in plenty of oil, and served with sauces Nos. 136, 148.
628. LARKS (l'Alouette).—They are best in winter, when very fat; they are roasted plain, or with a thin slice of bacon and a leaf of celery tied over them; they require about eight minutes, and served with a little gravy and bread-crumbs; they are also used in pies (see Pigeon Pie); and may be dressed like snipes.
629. QUAIL (la Caille).—Should be killed at least forty-eight hours before they are wanted; they should then be plucked, singed, drawn, and trussed by cutting off the wings at the first pinion, leaving the feet, and fixing the pinion and the wings with a very small skewer; cover the breast with vine leaves and a slice of fat bacon, and run a skewer through the pinions and thighs of each: tie on a spit and roast for ten to twelve minutes before a sharp fire. They should be served a nice gold colour in a dish with a little gravy; they may also be trussed as above, and put into a pig's caul, and roasted, and served with either sauces Nos. 146, 181.
630. KNOT, KNUTE, Or KNOUT (le Canut).—This little bird is of the snipe kind, and is generally caught in nets; they are best in autumn, when they are fat; they leave this country as soon as frost sets in. They are said to take their name from Canute, a Danish king, celebrated in English history for his reproof to his courtiers, who, it is reported, was exceedingly fond of them. They should be cooked like Snipes or Woodcocks.
631. RUFFES AND REEVES (le Combattant) The first is the male, the latter the female; they are best at the latter end of May. They are caught in nets, and then kept in boxes, and fed on the following food:—two tablespoonfuls of wheat, one penny roll, one teaspoonful of hemp-seed, and a tablespoonful of sugar, boiled together in a pint of milk. Cook like Woodcocks.
632. LANDRAIL, CORNCRAKE, or DAKERHEN ().—This is a very nice bird about the latter end of August and September, when they are very fat; they are best caught in nets and fed; in cooking, proceed as for Larks.
633. WATER-RAIL, SPOTTED GALLINULE, OR WATERCRAKE.—This bird differs altogether from the former, and is a distinct species of itself; the heart is most delicious eating; it should be dressed and served like the Widgeon.
634. FIELDFARE (la Tourdelle).—In season in autumn, until the middle of December.
635. RED WING, WIND THRUSH, SWINE-PIPE (le Mauvis).—These two birds should be caught alive, either in net or by bird-lime, and fed for some days previous to killing; their food should consist of juniper berries, pounded figs, and bread; when fat and fed thus, they are excellent, and should be cooked like the Quail. These birds are the Turdi of the Romans.
636. THRUSH (Greve).—These should be eaten twentyfour hours after being killed. Pluck and take out entrails, leave the liver, cover with two vine leaves and a slice of bacon or pickled pork, and put in an oven or toast before the fire for ten minutes. These are not much in use in England, but are thought a delicacy by our neighbours on the Continent.
637. CURLEW (le Courlis).—The little Curlew, Curlew Jack, or Whimbrel (le petit Courlis).—These birds are most in season in April. I have had them from Kent and Sussex of most excellent eating; they should be cooked like Teal.
638. WILD GEESE, the common gray leg (l'Oie Sauvage).—Bean Goose; Barnacle Treegoose or Clakis (la Bernaole); Brent Goose (le Cravant); Egyptian Goose, Gander, or Gambo, or Spur-winged (l'Oie d'Egypte); Red-breasted Goosiander, or Siberian Goose; White-fronted or Laughing Goose (l'Oie Rieuse.)—These birds, although being of the same species, differ very widely in flavour, depending much upon the place they last fed on previous to being killed; for although we have Barnacles in various parts of the kingdom, none are so fine as those taken at Wexford and Tralee in Ireland. The Brent and Whitefronted are by far the best eating, although at times some of the common gray jay are found very fine. They should be dressed like wild duck, only rubbing the breast well with a lemon, and sprinkle half a teaspoonful of red pepper over previous to spitting.
639. GANNET, GAN, Or SOLAN GOOSE (le Fou de Bassan).—This is a very different bird from the other wild geese. The best part to eat is the breast, which may be cut away after it has been plucked, for the feathers are valuable, and then salted for six hours, and dried or smoked; place them in a dry place and they will keep for some months. They should be cooked as follows:
Soak them in water twenty-four hours, having added a teaspoonful of culinary alkali, rub the breast with oil, cover with oiled paper the same as for " Cutlets en papillote;" broil gently for full thirty minutes, and serve in the paper or without with orange sauce.
The young ones can be roasted whole, like wild ducks.
640. TERNES, OR SEA-SWALLOWS, are good eating in autumn, dressed like the widgeon. These birds, in some places, are called Kipps, and their eggs are sold as plovers'.
641. GULLS, GREBES, DIVERS of all kinds, including the Dobchicks, are only fit to make into soups, although I am of opinion that if the young gull was taken and fattened for table, it would make a delicious bird.
642. COOT, THE GREAT, (le grande Foulque, or, la Macroule.)—, (la Foulque, or Morrelle.— This bird, if properly dressed, is not so bad as may be supposed. They should be skinned, trussed, and well soaked in several waters for twenty-four hours, and then filled with B goose stuffing, and allowed to remain forty-eight hours; then cover its breast with slices of fat bacon, and roast it gently: serve with a fumet de gibier, or make it into pies, puddings, or soup.
643. BITTERN, THE COMMON, OR BOGBUMPER, BITTERBUM, BUTTERBUMP, MIREDRTUM (le Bator).—Bittern (the little) (le Blongios).—Many cooks confound this with the heron, but they are as different as possible, not only in appearance, although of the same species, but in flavour. When fat, about October and November, this bird is exceedingly fine eating; it should be kept for three or four days, then covered with a slice of bacon, and roasted, and served with a sauce (Nos. 148, 181).
644. STARLINGS, OR STARE {l'Etourneau).—These are obtained, at times, in large quantities, by persons resident in the country. When killed, their heads should be immediately pulled off, and as soon as plucked and trussed, put into a little vinegar and water, which will get rid of their bitter taste: cook like Larks.
Cormorants and Herons are unfit to be sent to table; also the Rock Birds, or Penguin species.
645. OX-BIRD, PURRE, OR STINT (l'Alouette de Mer).—It is from this bird that the receipt (No. 531) of sea-pie arose; it being a bird of passage, and often surrounding a vessel at sea in thousands; when we get them in London, they have generally been shot, which ought not to have been; but taken in nets and kept alive, and fed like quails, or on bread and milk, hemp-seed and boiled wheat, and two days before they are wanted add sugar, which makes them amazingly fat. When young, their legs are, smooth; the contrary when old. In cooking, proceed as for a lark, draw them or not, as may be preferred. With this bird may be classed the following, and cook in the same way :—Knots, Knute, Knout (le Canut); Thrush (Greve); Gambet or Gambetta, by some called the Greenshank; Redshank, Spotted Redshank (Chevalier Rouge) ; Godwits of all colours very much resemble and equal the flavour of a woodcock—the hens are the best; Dotterels, in spring the most delicious eating; Dotterel-sea or Turnstone, not so fine; Sandpiper or Sanderling, fine in summer; Wheatear, White Tail, or Fallowfinch, good in August and September.
646. BUSTARD, GREAT OR LITTLE (l'Outarde, or la petite Outarde).—This is a bird which is now seldom sent to table, its flavour depends much upon the country where it feeds; it should be stuffed and cooked like a turkey.
647. BLACKBIRDS.—They are eatable when young, and are best at the end of the year; they should be cooked like larks.
648. RABBITS.—There are two sorts, the tame and wild; the wild or gray inhabits the mountainous districts; has the finest flavour, or on those places where it can feed on thyme, geneva, or other aromatic herbs, or on the sea coast, where he gets the lichen or wild moss. It has a much darker colour than the tame. The tame rabbit, if properly fed 21 days before killing, may be made a very delicate article of nourishment; it should be kept from two to four days. When killed, it should be removed to a cold place as quick as possible, that the fat may set.
If old, the claws will be long and rough, the coat rough, and gray hairs mixed with it. If young, the claws and wool smooth. If stale, the flesh will be slimy and a bluish colour; if fresh, it will be stiff, and the flesh white and dry.
649. RABBITS, TO SKIN, &C.— Cut round the skin at the first joint of the hind legs, and pull the skin up a little, then run the knife between the sinew and the bone of the leg, so as to make a hole to hang it on a nail in a wall, with the head downwards; run a knife along the skin inside the thigh as far as the tail, so as to cut it, then run the hand under the skin, and it will easily separate from the body; pull it down towards the head, taking care not to tear the belly; when you have arrived as far as the head, pull up the fore legs, cutting the feet off at the first joint, then pull up the ears by running a skewer between the skin and the head, and pull the skin off, cutting the nose and lips; remove it from the nail, cut off the hind feet at the first joint; cut open the body, remove the inside, reserve the liver, heart, and kidneys, and throw away the remainder; wash out the inside. If for roasting, make the following stuffing: take the liver, heart, and kidneys, blanch them, put them into a fryingpan with a little fat and one small onion chopped up; saute a little, then remove and chop them up with two ounces of pork fat or bacon, a little parsley, and mixed with breadcrumbs and the yolk of an egg; stuff and sew up the belly. Truss as follows: bring the hind and fore legs close to the body towards the head, run a skewer through each, then run a skewer in at the mouth and through the neck to keep it upright; it should be exactly as if it was sitting. Put a string round the body from skewer to skewer, and it is ready.
650. HARES.—One is sufficient for a roast, skin and truss it nicely, as for the Rabbit, stuff the interior with a good veal stuffing, sew it up, then put it on the spit, rub butter over the back and shake flour over it, roast it about forty minutes before a sharp fire, but that depends upon the size, of course; serve them with plain gravy in the dish and current jelly separate. They are also served with a sauce poiverade, or sweet sauce; they may also be larded.
651. LEVERETS are plain roasted, and do not require stuffing, not so long roasting, being smaller; they are usually served with plain gravy, but may be served with either of the sauces mentioned in the last; you require two for a roast. They will take from twenty-five to thirty minutes roasting. They may be larded, for a change.
Second-course Roasts.
These dishes consist almost always of game, which require to be sent up immediately they are taken from the fire, and require great care and attention in cooking them. In the following pages will be found many which are scarce and rarely seen in London, and never mentioned in our various cookery books; but considering that many of our friends reside in the country, I have written it for them.
606. TURKEY POULTS—Turkey poults, so called from being used when about the size of a large pullet, are always roasted and trussed with the legs turned at the first joint, and the feet pressing upon the thighs, the neck is skinned, and the head fixed under the wing; roast them the same as directed for turkeys, about twenty-five minutes or half an hour, according to their size, and in the same modes, but they are usually served, one larded and the other barded, with gravy and water-cresses in the dish.
607. ROAST CAPON WITH CRESSES.—Roast and serve a capon in any of the ways directed for turkeys, roast of a nice gold colour, and serve with water-cresses round; a capon weighing five pounds requires about three quarters of an hour to roast. Poularde au cresson exactly as above.
608. ROAST PULLET.—For a dinner of four entrées you would require two fowls, but not too large; truss and roast them as directed for a turkey, judging the time required according to their size, and serve with gravy and water-cresses; they may be larded, barded, or served in any way mentioned in the foregoing receipts. A fowl weighing two pounds and a half would require half an hour roasting, or three quarters of an hour if larger.
609. SPRING CHICKENS are served like fowls, generally plain roasted, but they may be larded as the poularde. Be particular in tying the legs upon paper to the spit, as directed for the turkey, as it so improves their appearance when roasted. About twenty minutes would be sufficient to roast them.
610. GOSLINGS.—A green goose roasted plain and served with a little gravy is generally sent up for second courses; but if the larger ones are used they must be stuffed with sage and onions, but very few would choose such a thing for a roast second course, whilst green geese in their season are great favourites; truss them by cutting off the leg at the first joint, and the wing at the first pinion, fixing them at the side with skewers to throw the breast up; a full grown goose will take one hour to roast, but a green one not more than half an hour.
611. DUCKLINGS make a very favourite roast in the London season; they must have good fillets, white and plump, and require to be a little more underdone than any other description of poultry; if too much done, the fat catches, and gives a rank flavour to the flesh, besides causing the fillets to eat dry. They are usually served plain roasted for a second course, yet I have served them differently on some occasions for the sake of variety, but it must be with a very thin sauce and one that invigorates the palate, although they never can be better than when served plain roasted. Truss them by twisting the legs at the first joint and resting the feet upon the thighs, cut the wing off at the pinion, and run a skewer through the bird, fixing the pinion and legs with it, place them upon a spit, and roast twenty minutes.
612. GUINEA FOWLS.—These birds must be very young, for, being naturally very dry, they are not eatable if more than twelve months old; they are generally larded or barded, and served plain roasted, rather well done; they are trussed like the common fowls, and require nearly three quarters of an hour to roast.
613. PEA FOWLS.—These magnificent birds make a noble roast, and when young are very excellent; they are larded, or plain roasted, and served with the tail feathers which have been preserved, stuck into the bird, the head, with its feathers on, being left folded up in paper, and tucked under the wing; roast about an hour and a half, take the paper from the head and neck, dress it upon your dish with water-cresses, and the gravy and bread-sauce separate in a boat.
GAME (CHOICE OF).—There is no article of food that is so deceiving in appearance to know if it is young, tender, and good, or not, as game; to any one residing in London, and dealing with a respectable tradesman, it matters little, as old or bad game is rarely sent to London, it not being worth the carriage; but to a person living in the country, where a member of the family has shot them in his day's sport or have been received as presents, a knowledge how to distinguish them is requisite. Young birds may be distinguished by the softness of their quills; females will eat better than males, they are more tender and juicy. Old pheasants are known by the length and sharpness of their spurs, in young ones they are short and blunt.—Old partridges before Christmas have light blue legs, instead of yellow-brown.—Wild fowl may be known to be old from their bills and the stiffness of the sinews of the legs, those that have the finest plumage are the worst eating.—Hares and rabbits: try if the ear will easily tear and the jaw-bone break between the finger and the thumb, if not they are only fit for soup or jugging.—On receiving birds of all kinds, put in their mouths three or four peppercorns bruised and one clove of garlic, and pepper the place where shot. In case you receive many, tie a piece of paper to them with the date on which they were received.
614. PHEASANTS.—At the present day there are great varieties of these birds, which differ as much in their flavour as their plumage. There are also a large quantity of hybrids sold in the London market as a genuine pheasant, and it is impossible to know them when plucked. The flavour of the bird will depend in a great measure on the nature of the country where it is killed.
Have them prepared and trussed: put them about eighteen inches from the fire for five minutes, then draw them close, and roast as quickly as possible, rubbing them all over with an ounce of butter pressed in a wooden spoon, serve up with bread sauce separate, and good gravy under. They are also good larded, or one larded and the other barded.
615. PARTRIDGES.— The red-legged in this country are not so fine in flavour as the gray; they are dressed like the pheasant, but all the time at a very quick fire, and served very hot from the spit; it is better to wait a minute or two for it than to have it wait for you; dish it up with a little made gravy with it, and bread-sauces, as above.
616. GROUSE.—We have three kinds in this country; namely, black, red, and white. The first, the Black Grouse, is called the Black Cock (le Coq de Bruyere). The female in the north is called the Gray Hen, but in the south of England male and female are called Heath Poults.
These birds should be well kept, trussed like a fowl for roasting, and served with brown gravy under, or may be dressed as follows: truss as before, covering the breast with vine leaves and fat bacon, which tie on; roast from half to three quarters of an hour according to size, and serve with toast under, and melted butter over.
617. RED GROUSE, GORCOCK, or MOORCOCK (the common Moor Gamel'Attagas).—Trussed like a fowl for roasting, which cook quick before a sharp fire, serve with toasted bread under.
618. WHITE GROUSE or PTARMIGAN (le Lagopède).—The birds are perfectly white; they now arrive in the London market from February to May; from Sweden and Norway, packed in ice: they have rather a strong flavour of the pine; but when young and tender, are good eating. They are to be trussed like the above, and plain roasted, and served with toast under and fried bread-crumbs, separate, or dressed as follows :—Put two spoonfuls of currant jelly in a stewpan, with the juice of a lemon and a little salt dissolved in it; when melted, pour over and serve.
There is another sort of grouse, known as the Wood Grouse or Capercailzie; these are rare in this country; I have occasionally received a few from Scotland. These are to be plain roasted, and served as the above.
619. WILD DUCKS (Canard Sauvage).—The male is called the Mallard, and the young one Flapper. Under the above title a great many birds are sold.
They should all be cooked alike; they must be kept two or three days before they are dressed; they are trussed by twisting each leg at the knuckle, and resting the claws on each side of the breast, fixing them with a skewer run through the thighs and pinions of the wings; rub the liver over the breast, roast them before a quick fire from fifteen to twenty minutes, baste with butter, not basting them when first put down will keep the gravy in; one should be better done than the other, in order to suit the taste of those at table; serve with made gravy under, and a lemon separate.
620. CANVAS BACK DUCK.—A friend of mine gave me some of these delicate birds from America, but which were already cooked and preserved in tins. I could not speak very highly of them, being to my fancy too much done; but I believe they now arrive in England packed in ice. They have a gray plumage.
They should be cooked like wild duck, but nearer the fire, the fat being so delicate that it requires to be cooked quickly; good plain gravy is all that is required to make them perfect.
The following is a list of those ducks fit to be eaten :—Golden Eye Duck (le Garrot, or Piedcurre); Gray Duck (le Chipeau); Morillon, or Gurgling Curries; in Scotland, Douckers (le Morillon); Pintailed Duck or Winter Duck, Sea Pheasant or Cracker (le Canard a longue queue); Scaup Duck, Gray-back Curre and Teal Drake (le Vignons); Shoveller, or Kertlutock, or Broadbilled Duck on the east coast, Becks and Scopper-bills (le Souchet). There is also a variety called the Red-breasted Shoveller, which we receive in London from Holland about Christmas; the flesh of this bird is superior to that of the common wild duck, the wing can be eaten with the breast; Tufted Duck, or Blue-billed Curries and Dowers (le petit Morillon): there are other birds of this species, but not fit to be eaten, as the Black Duck or Scoter (la Macreuse); Burrough Duck or Sheldrake (le Tadorne); the young ones may be eaten; Eider Duck, St. Cuthbert's, or Great Black and White Duck (l'Eider); Long-tailed Duck or Swallow-tailed Sheldrake (Canard de Miclon); Velvet Duck, Great Black Duck or Double Scoter (le grande Macreuse).
621. WIDGEON, WHEWER, OR WHIM (le Canard Siffleur).—These should be eaten fresher than a wild duck, trussed, dressed, and served the same; fifteen minutes is sufficient before a good fire.
622. DUNBIRD, POCHARD, OR GREAT-HEADED WIDGEON (Pénélope, le Millouin). — In some parts Red Heads, Parkers, or Half Birds. These are dressed as above, but not so good as the Widgeon.
623. TEAL (la petite Sarcelle).—This is a delicious bird when fat, which they generally are after a frost. They must be trussed with care like ducklings; they will take about eight minutes to roast; serve with gravy, water-cresses, and lemon, separate, about six on a dish; or with sauces Nos. 146, 148.
624. GARGANEY (la Sarcelle).—These are called Summer Teal, resemble it in shape, and are dressed the same way.
625. PLOVER.—Of these there are several sorts, all of which are good to eat at certain seasons. They are, the Great Plover, or Norfolk Plover, or Thick-kneed Bustard, or Stone Curlew (le grand Pluvier). The young of these are the best eating in September' —Bastard Plover, or Lapwing, or Peewit (le Vanneau). This one we get the eggs from; they are good in the winter. We get them from the South Downs, but they are much finer in France, where there is a proverb—" Qui n'a pas mange de vanneau, ne sait pas ce que gibier vaut."—Golden Plover (le Pluvier dore); Gray Plover (le Vanneau Pluvier); Dotterel (le Guignard); Ring Dotterel, Ring Plover, or Sea Lark (le petit Pluvier a collier); Long-legged Plover or Longshanks, or Sanderling (l'Echasse). The Golden and Large Dotterel are the best to eat.
They should be well kept, but not too long, trussed gently, but not drawn, and put on a skewer, place them a little distance from a sharp fire, with a bit of toast under to catch the trail, baste with a little good butter, ten minutes is sufficient; dress them with toast under, and serve with gravy separate. They may also be served barded with vine leaves and very thin bacon. 626. WOODCOCK (la Bécasse).—This is a most delicious bird when well cooked; they must not be kept too long; they are fit for cooking when they become black between the legs, and the feathers are rather loose; truss them with the legs twisted at the knuckles, and the feet pressing upon the thighs, bring the pinion of the wing to the thigh, having previously skinned the neck and head; bring the beak round under the wing, which pass through the pinions of the wings and thighs. Place four on a skewer, tie them on a spit, and roast before a sharp fire from ten to fifteen minutes, placing toast under to catch the trail; when done, serve on the toast and a very little gravy: they may also be barded with thin slices of bacon over the breast, and served with a sauce fumet de gibier.
627. SNIPES.—Of these we have the Great or Solitary Snipe, (la grande Bécassine); the Common Snipe, Snite, or Heather Bleater, (la Bécassine); the Jack Snipe, Judcock, Jetcock, or Gid, (la petite Bécassine). The last is the best eating, and the hen better than the cock, although that is generally sent as a present from its beautiful plumage. They are dressed in every respect like Woodcocks; and from seven to ten minutes is sufficient. They may likewise be fried in plenty of oil, and served with sauces Nos. 136, 148.
628. LARKS (l'Alouette).—They are best in winter, when very fat; they are roasted plain, or with a thin slice of bacon and a leaf of celery tied over them; they require about eight minutes, and served with a little gravy and bread-crumbs; they are also used in pies (see Pigeon Pie); and may be dressed like snipes.
629. QUAIL (la Caille).—Should be killed at least forty-eight hours before they are wanted; they should then be plucked, singed, drawn, and trussed by cutting off the wings at the first pinion, leaving the feet, and fixing the pinion and the wings with a very small skewer; cover the breast with vine leaves and a slice of fat bacon, and run a skewer through the pinions and thighs of each: tie on a spit and roast for ten to twelve minutes before a sharp fire. They should be served a nice gold colour in a dish with a little gravy; they may also be trussed as above, and put into a pig's caul, and roasted, and served with either sauces Nos. 146, 181.
630. KNOT, KNUTE, Or KNOUT (le Canut).—This little bird is of the snipe kind, and is generally caught in nets; they are best in autumn, when they are fat; they leave this country as soon as frost sets in. They are said to take their name from Canute, a Danish king, celebrated in English history for his reproof to his courtiers, who, it is reported, was exceedingly fond of them. They should be cooked like Snipes or Woodcocks.
631. RUFFES AND REEVES (le Combattant) The first is the male, the latter the female; they are best at the latter end of May. They are caught in nets, and then kept in boxes, and fed on the following food:—two tablespoonfuls of wheat, one penny roll, one teaspoonful of hemp-seed, and a tablespoonful of sugar, boiled together in a pint of milk. Cook like Woodcocks.
632. LANDRAIL, CORNCRAKE, or DAKERHEN (
633. WATER-RAIL, SPOTTED GALLINULE, OR WATERCRAKE.—This bird differs altogether from the former, and is a distinct species of itself; the heart is most delicious eating; it should be dressed and served like the Widgeon.
634. FIELDFARE (la Tourdelle).—In season in autumn, until the middle of December.
635. RED WING, WIND THRUSH, SWINE-PIPE (le Mauvis).—These two birds should be caught alive, either in net or by bird-lime, and fed for some days previous to killing; their food should consist of juniper berries, pounded figs, and bread; when fat and fed thus, they are excellent, and should be cooked like the Quail. These birds are the Turdi of the Romans.
636. THRUSH (Greve).—These should be eaten twentyfour hours after being killed. Pluck and take out entrails, leave the liver, cover with two vine leaves and a slice of bacon or pickled pork, and put in an oven or toast before the fire for ten minutes. These are not much in use in England, but are thought a delicacy by our neighbours on the Continent.
637. CURLEW (le Courlis).—The little Curlew, Curlew Jack, or Whimbrel (le petit Courlis).—These birds are most in season in April. I have had them from Kent and Sussex of most excellent eating; they should be cooked like Teal.
638. WILD GEESE, the common gray leg (l'Oie Sauvage).—Bean Goose; Barnacle Treegoose or Clakis (la Bernaole); Brent Goose (le Cravant); Egyptian Goose, Gander, or Gambo, or Spur-winged (l'Oie d'Egypte); Red-breasted Goosiander, or Siberian Goose; White-fronted or Laughing Goose (l'Oie Rieuse.)—These birds, although being of the same species, differ very widely in flavour, depending much upon the place they last fed on previous to being killed; for although we have Barnacles in various parts of the kingdom, none are so fine as those taken at Wexford and Tralee in Ireland. The Brent and Whitefronted are by far the best eating, although at times some of the common gray jay are found very fine. They should be dressed like wild duck, only rubbing the breast well with a lemon, and sprinkle half a teaspoonful of red pepper over previous to spitting.
639. GANNET, GAN, Or SOLAN GOOSE (le Fou de Bassan).—This is a very different bird from the other wild geese. The best part to eat is the breast, which may be cut away after it has been plucked, for the feathers are valuable, and then salted for six hours, and dried or smoked; place them in a dry place and they will keep for some months. They should be cooked as follows:
Soak them in water twenty-four hours, having added a teaspoonful of culinary alkali, rub the breast with oil, cover with oiled paper the same as for " Cutlets en papillote;" broil gently for full thirty minutes, and serve in the paper or without with orange sauce.
The young ones can be roasted whole, like wild ducks.
640. TERNES, OR SEA-SWALLOWS, are good eating in autumn, dressed like the widgeon. These birds, in some places, are called Kipps, and their eggs are sold as plovers'.
641. GULLS, GREBES, DIVERS of all kinds, including the Dobchicks, are only fit to make into soups, although I am of opinion that if the young gull was taken and fattened for table, it would make a delicious bird.
642. COOT, THE GREAT, (le grande Foulque, or, la Macroule.)—
643. BITTERN, THE COMMON, OR BOGBUMPER, BITTERBUM, BUTTERBUMP, MIREDRTUM (le Bator).—Bittern (the little) (le Blongios).—Many cooks confound this with the heron, but they are as different as possible, not only in appearance, although of the same species, but in flavour. When fat, about October and November, this bird is exceedingly fine eating; it should be kept for three or four days, then covered with a slice of bacon, and roasted, and served with a sauce (Nos. 148, 181).
644. STARLINGS, OR STARE {l'Etourneau).—These are obtained, at times, in large quantities, by persons resident in the country. When killed, their heads should be immediately pulled off, and as soon as plucked and trussed, put into a little vinegar and water, which will get rid of their bitter taste: cook like Larks.
Cormorants and Herons are unfit to be sent to table; also the Rock Birds, or Penguin species.
645. OX-BIRD, PURRE, OR STINT (l'Alouette de Mer).—It is from this bird that the receipt (No. 531) of sea-pie arose; it being a bird of passage, and often surrounding a vessel at sea in thousands; when we get them in London, they have generally been shot, which ought not to have been; but taken in nets and kept alive, and fed like quails, or on bread and milk, hemp-seed and boiled wheat, and two days before they are wanted add sugar, which makes them amazingly fat. When young, their legs are, smooth; the contrary when old. In cooking, proceed as for a lark, draw them or not, as may be preferred. With this bird may be classed the following, and cook in the same way :—Knots, Knute, Knout (le Canut); Thrush (Greve); Gambet or Gambetta, by some called the Greenshank; Redshank, Spotted Redshank (Chevalier Rouge) ; Godwits of all colours very much resemble and equal the flavour of a woodcock—the hens are the best; Dotterels, in spring the most delicious eating; Dotterel-sea or Turnstone, not so fine; Sandpiper or Sanderling, fine in summer; Wheatear, White Tail, or Fallowfinch, good in August and September.
646. BUSTARD, GREAT OR LITTLE (l'Outarde, or la petite Outarde).—This is a bird which is now seldom sent to table, its flavour depends much upon the country where it feeds; it should be stuffed and cooked like a turkey.
647. BLACKBIRDS.—They are eatable when young, and are best at the end of the year; they should be cooked like larks.
648. RABBITS.—There are two sorts, the tame and wild; the wild or gray inhabits the mountainous districts; has the finest flavour, or on those places where it can feed on thyme, geneva, or other aromatic herbs, or on the sea coast, where he gets the lichen or wild moss. It has a much darker colour than the tame. The tame rabbit, if properly fed 21 days before killing, may be made a very delicate article of nourishment; it should be kept from two to four days. When killed, it should be removed to a cold place as quick as possible, that the fat may set.
If old, the claws will be long and rough, the coat rough, and gray hairs mixed with it. If young, the claws and wool smooth. If stale, the flesh will be slimy and a bluish colour; if fresh, it will be stiff, and the flesh white and dry.
649. RABBITS, TO SKIN, &C.— Cut round the skin at the first joint of the hind legs, and pull the skin up a little, then run the knife between the sinew and the bone of the leg, so as to make a hole to hang it on a nail in a wall, with the head downwards; run a knife along the skin inside the thigh as far as the tail, so as to cut it, then run the hand under the skin, and it will easily separate from the body; pull it down towards the head, taking care not to tear the belly; when you have arrived as far as the head, pull up the fore legs, cutting the feet off at the first joint, then pull up the ears by running a skewer between the skin and the head, and pull the skin off, cutting the nose and lips; remove it from the nail, cut off the hind feet at the first joint; cut open the body, remove the inside, reserve the liver, heart, and kidneys, and throw away the remainder; wash out the inside. If for roasting, make the following stuffing: take the liver, heart, and kidneys, blanch them, put them into a fryingpan with a little fat and one small onion chopped up; saute a little, then remove and chop them up with two ounces of pork fat or bacon, a little parsley, and mixed with breadcrumbs and the yolk of an egg; stuff and sew up the belly. Truss as follows: bring the hind and fore legs close to the body towards the head, run a skewer through each, then run a skewer in at the mouth and through the neck to keep it upright; it should be exactly as if it was sitting. Put a string round the body from skewer to skewer, and it is ready.
650. HARES.—One is sufficient for a roast, skin and truss it nicely, as for the Rabbit, stuff the interior with a good veal stuffing, sew it up, then put it on the spit, rub butter over the back and shake flour over it, roast it about forty minutes before a sharp fire, but that depends upon the size, of course; serve them with plain gravy in the dish and current jelly separate. They are also served with a sauce poiverade, or sweet sauce; they may also be larded.
651. LEVERETS are plain roasted, and do not require stuffing, not so long roasting, being smaller; they are usually served with plain gravy, but may be served with either of the sauces mentioned in the last; you require two for a roast. They will take from twenty-five to thirty minutes roasting. They may be larded, for a change.
Notes: