Alexis Soyer's Part 5: The Baking Stew-pan
Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Alexis Soyer's Part 5 (The Baking Stew-pan) Page — Here you will find the full text from the fifth section: The Baking Stew-pan; of Alexis Soyer's A Shilling Cookery Book for the People As well as the full text this page also provides links out to the overall index of the book and links to modern redactions of each and every recipe (where practicable). This site builds a complete library of Eliza Acton recipes, allowing the modern cook to make them at home today. Enjoy...
INTRODUCTION TO BAKING STEW-PAN.
My Dear Eloise,—In some of my former letters, I have stated that the principal art of cookery consists in knowing the exact time each object requires to be subjected to the action of the fire; whether it he direct, or by the assistance of either roasting, frying, baking, or boiling. Large quantities of food may be treated in such a manner, that no more nutriment shall be obtained than by smaller quantities j but to learn this requires practice and attention, more than those to whom we wish to dedicate these letters can probably give.
I have been thinking in what way we could obviate the present loss, which either ascends the chimney to disperse in thin air, or pervades the apartments of the house to the inconvenience of its inmates.
I am the more particularly led to the consideration of this subject from having, in my rambles, entered a cottage, the other day, from which an odour proceeded, as if something more than ordinary cookery was going on, when I found a large pot of a kind of Irish stew boiling away on the fire, and the fragrance of the vegetables and meat dispersed over the apartment. Entering into conversation with the occupant, whom I found to be the wife of a carpenter on the adjoining estate, and who was preparing the table for six persons to dine, I soon found she had no mean opinion of her abilities in cooking. I remonstrated with her on the waste she was making, and at once took up a plate, and held it over the pot, so as to intercept the steam, when it was shortly covered by condensed steam and small particles of flbrine, which I convinced her would be much better used in giving nutriment to her family than in mingling with the soot in the chimney.
In our superior kitchens there may be plenty of means and utensils to prevent a part of this evil; but in the cottage, the abode of the labourer, whose stock of kitchen utensils consists of an iron pot, frying-pan, and gridiron, these kind of stews could not be done without great waste and difficulty. I have therefore invented a new and' simple baking stew-pan, by which all the nutriment and flavour of the various ingredients placed in it are preserved. In order that you may understand it, I will give you a drawing and description of it, feeling confident it will be useful to the million. (See appendix at the end of book.)
It has, likewise, one great advantage over the old method of boiling or stewing, namely, that it gives hardly any trouble in making, retains all the nutriment, cooks in one-third less the time taken by the usual way, and there is not a part of any beast, such as mutton, lamb, beef, pork, veal, or fish, however tough, that may not be cooked tender by this pan. Let whatever you cook in it be sweet, you may, by using this pan and the following receipts, make delicious dishes of fish, flesh, or vegetables; moreover, food prepared in this way will keep much longer than if dressed another way, and must consequently facilitate the way of cooking for a large family, as you can do enough food at once to last for several meals, which you must admit will save an immense deal of time.
This modest pan, as you must perceive, will concentrate all the nutriment and aroma created by any kind of food placed in it; is to prevent any person raising the lid while cooking, as by so doing the best part of the flavour would immediately escape.
It is so constructed that it may be hung over the fire, or placed on the hob, or steamed or boiled in a stewpan (as you would a pudding boiled in a basin), or in a cottage or baker's oven.
You must agree, my excellent friend, that I have hitherto done all n my power to simplify and economize the food partaken of by the larger part of the people of this country, who, I am sorry to say, are much behind their continental neighbours in the art of cookery, though possessing the best kind of food, and certain I am that huge mountains might be erected with the food daily and hourly wasted, even at the doors of the poor.*
Is it possible, that in a country where the science of political economy has made such progress, that such men as Jeremy Bentham and others have written volumes to benefit their fellow men, and yet never have given one word on that science which would materially increase the food partaken of by all classes of society!
Now that I have explained to you my new method of cookery, you must try the following receipts, and then you will find my assertion to be correct.
171. Beef-steak in Baking Pan. First Lesson.—Take two pounds of beef steak, which cut in pieces the size of walnuts, but only half an inch thick; peel two pounds of potatoes, cut in slices a quarter of an inch thick, two middling-sized onions sliced; mix two teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper.
Then lay five or six slices of potatoes on the bottom of the pan, season them, then add some pieces of beef; season again, then potatoes and onions, then beef, until the pan is full, potatoes on the top, seasoning each time; pour three quarters of a pint of water, .ock the lid, put in your oven, or send to the baker's, for one hour and a half; when done shake the pot gently, that the gravy may mix with the potatoes and onions, and form a nice thick sauce. Skirt or any other part of beef is excellent done thus.
Observe, Eloise, that this is the plain foundation of every receipt which I am going to send you, on that simple and effective style of cookery. I have omitted all seasoning but salt and pepper; if onions are an objection omit them; therefore take this as a guide for all kinds of meat, poultry, and even fish, which are very good done in this way.
172. Another variety may be made, which gives a change; this is, to mix a quarter of a pound of flour with a little chopped suet, a little salt, a gill of water, to form a paste; roll it out to cover the meat, so that it fits to the sides of the pan; then put the cover on as usual, and bake. A little dripping will do for the paste.
You have often reproached me of liking to give varieties of seasoning; in the above it is according to your own heart; but having done so, let me give one according to my own liking, and though you say the majority of people are not fond of savoury cookery, and do not like any predominant flavour; but I am certain they only require to try it two or three times, and they will like it.
173. —The variation of seasoning is very slight, to the above add only two onions; four will give it a stronger flavour, and six for those fond of onions. These may be varied by the judicious use of the following spices—either two cloves, or one blade of mace, or six peppercorns, or a teaspoonful of powdered ginger. Or with the herbs, two small bay-leaves, two sprigs of fresh thyme, or some winter savory, or lemon thyme; if dried, a little more should be used; two teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley may be employed. A little celery seed is also very good. All these are to be increased in proportion to the size and contents of the pan.
174 Leg of Beef.—Take two pounds of the leg—that part which is full of sinew—cut as above, and season the same way; add a pint of water, and give another hour in the oven: meat without bone is preferable; any part of the beef will do for this receipt.
Or, instead of cutting the leg or any other part of the beast, the cheek may be put in whole, letting it weigh about four pounds. This process of cooking will make it very palatable and tender; to vary it, the meat may be larded, and a bunch of herbs (No. 460) added, also cloves, nutmeg, mace, or a little garlic.
175. Beef with Vegetables.—Peel two carrots, two turnips, two onions, cut in pieces, put some vegetables at the bottom, then the meat in centre; season, and cover over with remaining vegetables; add a few cloves, a pint of water, or half ale and half water; put in slow oven for three hours, take off the fat, and serve. Four pounds of any inferior part of beef will eat tender done thus.
176. Ox Tail.—Cut them at the joint, although I prefer them sawed through the piece; have ready some chopped onions and a little herbs; roll each piece in flour, place them carefully in the pan, with some of the onions and seasoning; add a pint of water, bake three hours, take off the fat, and serve.
177. Ox Heart and Kidneys.—The heart does not enjoy a very high reputation. I mean not only with the wealthy, but with the laborious part of the population, in consequence of the difficulty experienced in cooking it properly. It is thus generally left on the hands of the butcher, and consequently sold cheap; but I trust these receipts will occasion a change, and induce them to purchase those provisions which are now despised.
178. —Wash an ox heart in several waters, cut it in six pieces lengthways, like steak, lay a few slices of potatoes at the bottom of the pan, then a few slices of bacon, then the heart, then bacon again, and then potatoes over all; a few slices of beef suet, instead of the bacon, if none handy; it should be cut thin; season as you fill up, add half a pint of water, bake one hour, and serve.
179. —If a small heart, buy half an ox kidney, cut out the hard part, and divide it into small pieces, and mix it with the heart; if you can get a cow-heel already boiled, which is the case in large towns, it may be added in pieces, omitting the bone.
180. Calves', Sheep's, Pig's, or Ox Heart, stewed whole.—Fill a heart, as for roasting, with stuffing, No. 456a. Put in a, four quart pan a piece of fat bacon half an inch thick, and on it the heart, the thick part downwards; cut into slices some potatoes, carrots, turnips, and onions, and a piece of bacon cut in dice; season it with three teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper: fill up round the heart until the pan is full, put in a pint of water, and bake for two hours. A teaspoonful of sugar and three of browning may be added.
181.—Tongues, brains, and liver, ought to be set before putting in the pot. The tongue should be boiled for ten minutes, and then skinned. These may be done in the same way as the preceding.
182.—But supposing you have all these, and you wish to mix them together, then cut them into thin slices, leaving out the brain; put them on a dish, and for every pound of meat season with one teaspoonful of salt and a quarter ditto of pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of flour; then have one onion and half a pound of potatoes cut in slices to each pound of meat, and place in the pot as before, mixing the brain cut in pieces; add half a pint of water to each pound of meat; bake according to size.
Layers of suet pudding may be used instead of potatoes, and cover it with paste.
183. Good Plain Family Irish Stew. — Take about two pounds of scrag or neck of mutton; divide it into ten pieces, lay them in the pan; cut eight large potatoes and four onions in slices, season with one teaspoonful and a half of pepper, and three of salt; cover all with water; put it into a slow oven for two hours, then stir it all up well, and dish up in deep dishes. If you add a little more water at the commencement, you can take out when half done, a nice cup of broth.
The same simplified.—Put in a pan two pounds of meat as before, which lay at the bottom; cover them with eight whole onions, and these with twelve whole potatoes; season as before; cover over with water, and send to the oven for two hours. Almost any part of the sheep can be used for Irish stew. A gallon pan is required for this and the preceding receipt.
184. Ox Tongue, Potted and Braized.—I send you this receipt as a bonne bouche, it being a dish worthy a first-class picnic or the race-course. Take a tongue from the pickle, and wash it clean; cut off a part of the rough pieces of the root, put a thick slice of bacon at the bottom of the pan, and over that a pound of lean beefsteak or veal, and then the tongue turned round to fit the pan; have a cow-heel, parboiled and ready boned, place it on the tongue, and cover it with another slice of bacon, and a slice of beef or veal; season with two teaspoonfuls of pepper, a little powdered ginger and cloves, one bay-leaf, one carrot sliced, and two onions sliced; add two wineglassfuls of brandy or sherry, four of old ale, and one quart of water; cover well over, and put in a slow oven for three hours, take off the cover, and put a piece of board with a weight on the top until cold, then the next day turn it out of the pan, which you can do by placing the pan in hot water. But should you wish to use the tongue hot for dinner, take it out, and when done with it, put the remains in and press, as before described. The vegetables may be also pressed in with the meat or served hot round the tongue.
The remains of pickled ox tongues are very nice, intermixed and placed in a pan, and pressed, when they will turn out like collared head. A tongue boiled in plain water will take about two hours.
185. Ox Tongues, Fresh and Pickled.—Put in the pan, as above, add two carrots, four turnips, four cloves, ten small dumplings, (see No. 349,) fill the pan with water, add either a little bay-leaf, thyme, or winter savory; stew in an oven for three hours, trim and dish up with vegetables, and dumplings found, making soup of the broth. For fresh ox tongue, proceed as above, adding three teaspoonfuls of salt.
186. Veal.—Take two pounds of the leg of veal, or meat from the shoulder, or the neck or breast, in fact any part, cut in pieces; season it with one teaspoonful and a half of salt, and a half ot pepper, and add a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in slices. To vary the seasoning, use herbs, (No. 460 A). It will also be very good with some suet pudding, previously boiled in small calls, if you omit either potatoes or stuffing. The pieces of veal should be rolled in flour; add half a pint of water, if with potatoes, and more, if pudding or stuffing; bake one hour and a half, and serve. Mushrooms may be added.
187. Purchase six calves' tails, and after having had them washed, cut them about two inches in length, and cook them as above, with the addition of more vegetables, as carrots, turnips, &c. They are excellent and nutritious thus.
188. —Brown Ragout of Veal.—Take two pounds of the breast, cut it into rather small pieces, about the size of an egg, roll them well in flour, put some fat in the frying-pan, fry the meatwntil a nice brown, take it out, and then fry four onions, two turnips cut in large dice, and one carrot the same; when brown take them out, put the veal and vegetables into pan, season with two teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, add a pint of water, to which has been added four teaspoonfuls of browning; put into oven for one hour, skim the fat, shake the pan, and serve. A few herbs and a little ham or bacon is an improvement. Beef, mutton, lamb, and pork may be done the same way. A teaspoonful of sugar is an improvement.
189. Fillet of Veal for an Extra Dinner.—A small fillet of veal, boned and stuff with No. 456; tie it up tight, put some fat into a fryingpan, about an inch deep; put in the fillet, fry gently until one side is brown, and then put in the other side until brown; fry in the same pan some large button onions whole, some turnips and carrots, cut in pieces the size of eggs; put the fillet into a pan, with a piece of fat bacon at the bottom; fill up round it with the vegetables; put another piece of bacon on the top, add some seasoning to the vegetables, and a pint of water; put on the cover, so that the steam does not escape; put it into a slow oven, giving a quarter of an hour for each pound weight. When served take out the fillet, put the gravy into a small basin, and skim off the fat; pour the gravy over the veal, and either serve the vegetables round the fillet or separate. A little browning is an improvement.
190. The following is another favourite dish of mine:—It is to lard a calf's liver with about twenty pieces of bacon (see No. 459), put about a quarter of a pound of fat or dripping into a frying pan, fry for twenty minutes until of a nice brown colour, place it in the baking stew-pan, also fry a quarter cf a pound of bacon cut in dice, twenty large button onions, twenty pieces of carrot, twenty of turnip; when a nice colour throw two ounces of flour over them, and stir; three teaspoonfuls of salt, and a small one of pepper, two of sugar; put all this into the pan, add three pints of hot coloured water No. 462 A, and a bunch of sweet herbs; shake the pan well, and place in oven for two hours; skim the fat and serve. These preparations are for a large sized liver. Pig's, lamb's, and sheep's liver, is excellent done thus. You may place all the above ingredients in the baking pan without frying any; it will be very good, though not so savoury in flavour.
191. Beef-à-la-Mode.—Take a piece of the thick part of the rump of beef, about four pounds, not too fat; take half a pound of fat bacon and a calf's foot; cut the bacon into pieces about two inches long and half an inch square, lard the beef through with the bacon (see No. 459), place the beef in the pan, and also the foot, divided in two, and a bunch of sweet herbs, two middle-sized carrots, cut into squares, and twenty button onions, or four or six large ones, cut into slices; add half a quartern of brandy, a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, one pint of water, put the cover on the pan, to prevent the steam escaping, and send it to the baker's for three hours; should it be done at home, turn the pan so that the heat is equal on all sides; when done remove the fat from the top, put the beef in a dish, with the foot on each side, and the carrots and onions round; throw the gravy over; take away the herbs. This, you may perceive, is a most exquisite dish, will keep good many days in winter, and five or six in summer. It is good cold.
192. The same plainer.—Proceed as above, adding half a pint of old ale instead of the brandy, or a wineglass of vinegar and an ox-foot instead of a calf's-foot. Any piece of the fleshy part of the ox is good done so.
193. The same, to be eaten cold.—Cut the beef into square pieces, of a quarter of a pound each, cut ten pieces of lean, bacon three inches long, have a cowheel already boiled in about two quarts of water, with two onions, pepper and salt, and a little vinegar; take the cowheel and remove all the bones, and place it, with the meat and bacon, in the pan, with the liquor in which the heel was boiled, two carrots cut into small dice, ten gherkins cut into slices, and sent to the oven for three hours; take off the cover, and place a flat piece of board on the top of the meat, with a heavy weight, so as to make it firm; and when cold use it. It is very good for breakfast. To remove it from the pan place the pan in hot water for a few minutes, and turn it over; it will come out easily, and cut like brawn, or it may be cut from the pan.
194. Leg, Breast, Scrag, and Head of Lamb.—These may all be done as follows:—Put it into a gallon pan, with one carrot, two turnips, one leek, cut in thick slices, thirty young button onions whole, three teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, cover with water, and set it on the fire, or in your oven for one hour; at the end of one hour put in one pint of peas, a little green mint, and a teaspoonful of sugar; set it by the side of the fire or in the oven for half an hour longer, and serve. This is for a leg or joint of five pounds weight; for a larger one take a little longer time. A bunch of parsley and sweet-herbs may be added, but should be removed when served. The flavour is exquisite, an^l may be served with vegetable or without, as liked, but then the broth should be strained, and the vegetables served separate, or the broth made into spring or other soups.
195. Pork.—Any part, not too fat, is exceedingly good done in this way: Cut two pounds in slices, rather large and thin, season with salt and pepper, then add a few slices of fat, then some slices of potatoes, then pork and then potatoes, until all is in; add half a pint of water. Bake one hour and a half.
196. Another way with Apple.—Cut the pork in thick pieces, peel two baking apples, four onions, and eight potatoes, cut them in slices, season with pepper and salt, and, if liked, a little powdered sage, intermix the vegetables, lay the slices and the vegetables together, half a pint of water, or enough to cover it. Bake two hours and serve.
197. Another, simpler.—When in a great hurry proceed thus:—Put in a dish two pounds of pork in slices, one onion, one pound of potatoes, also sliced; two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of pepper, one of flour; mix all well together, put it in the pan with half a pint of water. Bake one hour and a half. A little bone may be used with the meat.
198. Salt Pork with Peas.—Take two pounds of the belly of pork, cut into large dice, wash half a pint of split peas, put them into a three-quart pan, with some pepper, and half a carrot cut in small pieces, fill it up with cold water, send it to the oven for two hours, stir up the peas well before serving. A few vegetables may be introduced. Rice may be used instead of peas.
199. Salt Pork may be used thus: Take a four-quart pan, cut up the pork and some greens, remove the stalk, slice them, and also add four onions sliced, four cloves, and one teaspoonful of pepper; press it well down; put over it a quarter of a pound of dripping, add a pint of water, and stew for three hours; a little salt may be added if the pork is not salt enough; it will make an excellent soup if filled up with water half an hour previous to using.
Red cabbage may also be used, but first boiled for ten minutes in plain water; then add half a pint of vinegar and twelve peppercorns, if handy.
200. Green Peas and Pork.—Put a piece of salt pork, about two pounds, into pan, with a quart of peas; fill up with water, add two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, one of sugar, two onions; bake for three hours. Salt beef is also good; a little mint may be added. Three pints of large peas alone, with a little dripping, is good as above.
201. Cabbage and Pork.—Cut two good Savoy cabbages in thin slices, wash them, put half in pan, then a piece of pork about two pounds, or either ham, bacon, or salt beef; season as foregoing receipt, add the remainder of the cabbage; season again; add, if you have it, four cloves, or pepper corns, four onions, and a bunch of sweet herbs: do not fill it with water to the brim, or it will boil over. Red cabbage may be used the same way, only adding half a pint of vinegar, and if beef, two ounces of dripping.
202. Haricot beans and other pulse may be done precisely the same way. In fact, all dried pulse may be here used, and I cannot too strongly recommend both the dried haricot beans and lentils. I have also latterly tried the dried green pea, well soaked for twenty hours, and dressed as haricots and lentils. I find that one pint absorbs two quarts of water. It makes an agreeable as well as economical food.
203. Beef and Pork.—Semi-Carthusian Fashion.—Sausages, cervelas, saveloys, beef sausages, knuckles of ham, and salted pig^s feet and tongue, which are daily to be obtained in London, may be dressed in this way: Buy two good savoys or white cabbages, cut them in four, take out the hard stalk, and boil them for ten minutes in water; place them in a dish to drain; cut the quarters again into four, lay some at the bottom of the pan, then a few sausages and saveloys, season with salt and pepper, and the.i fill up the pan; then add two ounces of dripping or suet, half a pint of water, bake one hour and a half, and serve with cabbage under, and sausages on the top.
Red cabbage with saveloys are preferable; then add one gill of vinegar, a few peppercorns; stew them longer, and serve as above. I have tried with raw cabbage; it is not bad, and saves time.
Two or three onions sliced may be added, or one large Spanish onion.
This receipt will do for pig's feet, knuckles of ham, trimmings of ham or pork, a piece of cooked brisket of beef, which is generally sold underdone, in which case the cabbage should be done first. Sheeps' and pigs' tongues are very good done in this way, and they make a cheap and wholesome meal.
204. Large Dutch Rabbits.—Put into a one gallon pan a rabbit, cut into about eighteen or twenty pieces; peel eight onions, twenty potatoes cut into thin slices; also half a pound of bacon cut into dice, season with salt and pepper, then place the meat and potatoes in layers, add nearly a pint of water; cover over and bake two hours; shake the pan round and serve.
205. Curry Rabbits.—Proceed as above; only add to the water two teaspoonfuls of curry powder; let it well mix, or season with it at the same time as the other seasoning.
The same may be done with rice instead of potatoes, but use two quarts of water to every pound of rice. One pound of good rice ought to weigh five pounds when boiled.
206. Plain Rabbit, Chickens, or Pigeons for Invalids.— The rabbit should be cut into nice pieces; the chicken in quarters; the pigeons into halves; place it in a two-quart pan> with a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in dice, a little salt and pepper; a few sprigs of parsley, and half a pint of water, if the pan is not quite full; fill up with some small pieces of veal; put a plain paste over all, No. 317; put cover close over, and bake one hour. Skim the fat off, and serve.
HOW TO USE THE PAN FOR SEMI-ROASTING.
The deep tin dish at the bottom of the pan is to contain either pudding, gravy, or vegetables, the grating above is to lay any meat, poultry, fish, or game on, you wish to cook by this process.
207. Ribs of Beef semi-roasted.—Purchase two ribs of beef, bone them, then season the interior of the meat with salt and pepper; roll the meat round like a cheese, using a piece of string or a skewer to keep it in that position; make a quart of batter, as No. 462 i put it in your pan, which previously well grease; put the grating over, and lay your meat on it, surrounding it with potatoes either whole or cut; allowing from twelve to fifteen minutes for each pound of meat, according to the state of the oven. Dish up the beef with the potatoes round, and serve the pudding in the tin, or turn it out on a dish. The beef may be stuffed with stuffing, No. 464.
Nothing is more objectionable to me than to see salt put on the top of a roast joint, and water poured over to make the gravy. The only way to remedy this is to put a gill of boiling water and a little salt on the hot dish you intend putting the meat on, turning the joint in it once during the interval of a minute; and, whilst carving, the juice from the meat will mingle with it and make a good gravy. Half a teaspoonful of colouring, much improves its appearance. This is applicable to all roasted or semi-roasted joints.
For large ribs of beef or sirloins, you can put the salt on the bones at the back of the joint, and pour half a pint of boiling water over; not however disturbing the meat.
Brown gravy, No. 2, or broth, No. 1, will be found preferable to either of the above.
208. Mutton semi-roasted.—Half a leg of mutton, about iOur pounds, potatoes and pudding, if liked, under, will take about one hour. Shoulder the same.
209. Pork semi-roasted.—Place in the bottom four apples, peeled, four onions sliced, and potatoes, and over that a joint of pork, rubbed with salt and pepper; sprinkle a little sage; add half a pint of water in the pan: hake for two hours.
For a change, pork should be purchased the day before using, covering it all over with salt; and then scrape it well before cooking it, makes it eat short and savoury.
210. Lamb semi-roasted.—Boil some spinach in salt and water, drain it well, and chop it up; put it in the pan, seasoned with salt and pepper; put potatoes over the grating, and then the joint of lamb; small ribs or shoulder will take an hour; leg, one hour and thirty minutes. Dish it up with the spinach separate, the fat having been removed from it. Greens of any kind may be done in the same manner, particularly the young leaf of the white beet, which is an excellent substitute for spinach, or even chopped nettles: these are also good under pork, veal, or beef, as also is a Yorkshire pudding, as at ribs of beef, No. 176.
211. Poultry semi-roasted.—Almost any kind of vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, onions, potatoes, celery, or mushrooms, may be put raw in the pan and cooked under poultry, as well as cabbage, spinach, or greens, previously boiled and chopped.
1st Lesson.—Pluck, draw, and stuff a middle-sized fowl; peel and cut in middling-sized pieces about half a pound of carrots, the same of turnips; place them in the pan with half a pint of water, half a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, and half of pepper; put the grating over, placing the fowl on it, surrounding it with peeled potatoes, season a little more, bake for an hour, and serve; also rub a little butter or fat over the breast, or cover it with a few slices of bacon; a little colouring may be added to the gravy.
This receipt is applicable to all kinds of birds, game, or poultry, allowing about ten minutes baking to every pound of large poultry or game, and the smaller ones in proportion.
212. Rabbits, stuffed, put sliced onions in the bottom of the pan, if liked, or boiled rice, previously seasoned, and a bit of butter, &c.; put half a pint of water; hake thirty-five or fifty minutes, according to size, and serve.
If any joint happens to be too fat, it will not do to put a Yorkshire pudding under, as the fat would prevent it setting but if either greens, boiled rice, or potatoes, are added, you will be able to press the fat off with the back of a spoon, or a plate, or the vegetable presser, (see Appendix,) and serve separately.
To semi-roast a Joint with gravy only.—Put in the pan half a pint of water, together with half a teaspoonful of salt, hall that of pepper. When done, take off the fat, add a little colouring, pour under the joint, and serve.
USEFUL HINTS ON THE PIG.
Once or twice a year every cottager ought to kill a pig. If a pig is washed and kept clean, it softens the skin and allows it to expand; in fact, a pig thus treated comes much quicker round; it is proved that a pig at fourteen months, kept clean, is equal to one at eighteen which is not attended to. The same day some of the liver may he fried, but the rest can be used in the pan as follows :—
213. Cut it into large dice; put two ounces of fat or dripping into frying-pan, cut up a quarter of a pound of bacon into small dice, fry them for five minutes, and then shake over a teaspoonful of flour, put in the liver, with one teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, fry it for five minutes, add a gill of water, keep stirring, and put it into pan, with a pound of turnips cut in small dice, four onions cut in four, and half a pint of boiling water; put into a slow oven for fifty minutes, and then serve with toasted sippets round the dish. A hunch of herbs, No. 460, may he added.
Veal, sheeps', lamhs', and ox liver, and kidneys, may all be done the same way; less time for lamb and more for ox; any other vegetables may he used, and particularly mushrooms.
214. Veal.—Take six pounds of veal usually used for roasting, rub it with salt, put half a pint of water in the tin, and potatoes above, and then the veal; it will take two hours. When it is served, take off the fat from the gravy in the pan, and pour over the veal, reserving the fat for puddings. A piece of bacon and greens should he boiled at home, or a small piece of bacon may he placed with the potatoes; dish the veal with the potatoes, and bacon round it or separate; add a little colouring to gravy.
A piece of veal stuffed may he roasted thus. Or, for gravy, make melted butter No. 410, with four teaspoonfuls of Harvey sauce, or ketchup, and pour it over.
215. Toad in the Hole.—No. 1.—May he made in either a baking-dish, pie-dish, or tin. Get about two pounds of trimmings if either beef, mutton, veal, or lamb, not too fat, and cut them into pieces, each about the size of a small egg; season with salt and pepper, make about two quarts of batter, second class; grease the pan well, put in the meat and batter, and place in a slow oven for nearly two hours, and serve hot.
No. 2, with Potatoes.—Proceed as before. When the pan is ready put about two pounds of previously boiled potatoes, cut in slices, and bake as before.
No. 3, with Peas.—Proceed as before, only adding about one quart of good green peas, previously boiled; broad beans may be used the same way.
No. 4.—Remains of cooked meat may be done the same way, but it will take less time to cook.
No. 5. — Calves', or any brains, previously parboiled in water, and the skin removed, well seasoned with pepper and salt, and a few slices of bacon added to the batter, make a very delicate dish.
No. 6.—Six larks or twelve sparrows, with a slice of bacon skewered round each, with the batter, and put into the oven for two hours.
No. 7.—Ox cheek and sheeps' heads, previously cooked and nicely seasoned, with the addition of a little chopped onions added to the batter, is an economical dish. A few slices of cooked potatoes may be added.
No. 8.—Truss a rabbit for roasting, make a stuffing with the liver, &c., chopped up, bread-crumbs, beef-suet, and seasoning; stuff the rabbit; lay on the bottom of the pan a thick slice of fat bacon, and over that a slice, one inch thick, of beefsteak, and then the rabbit, to which add two quarts of batter; place in the oven for two hours, and serve hot. This is enough for a large family. The rabbit may be cut in pieces; boiled cauliflower may be added.
No. 9.—Remains of previously cooked hare may be done in the same way, with some currant-jelly in the stuffing.
No. 10.—A blade-bone of pork, two onions, cut in slices, and four potatoes sliced, pepper and salt, and one quart of batter put over them; place in the oven one hour, and serve hot. No. 11.—Remains of salt pork, or any roast meat, may all be done in this way, and varied according to the taste of the partaker.
Remains of any kind of fish may also be done thus, with previously boiled potatoes.
216. Jugged Mare.—Cut a small hare into pieces about the size of eggs, cut half a pound of bacon into dice not too small, lay both on a dish, mix together three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four of flour, three of chopped onions, one of powdered thyme and bay-leaf, four cloves, and a quarter of a nutmeg, grated; rub the hare and bacon with these; place them in the pan. Having saved the blood, chop up the liver and mix with it, add to it a wineglass of brandy, or two of port or sherry, or one of vinegar, or half a pint of ale, stout, or porter, and a pint of water; put this in the pan, and cover over with pudding-paste No. 319; put on the cover; shake the whole well to make it mix; and bake for three hours, if an old hare; if a young one two hours. It is equally as good cold as hot. If eaten hot, a little currant-jelly should be served with it.
Some stuffing No. 456, made into little balls, can be added with advantage, or even a few suet balls, and two tablespoonfuls of colouring; mix with the water. It can be done plainer, with salt and pepper and water only; or twenty small onions and eight potatoes, cut in slices, may be added, or even mushrooms may be put in.
217. Jugged Hare, Marinaded.—It should be cut as above, and put into a bowl, with half water and half vinegar to cover it; four teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, four of brown sugar, two onions cut in slices, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, cloves, peppercorns; turn them now and then for four days, and cook as above, with the marinade in.
218. How to cook all kinds of Fish in Baking Stew-pan.—Take six pounds of any fish, cut it crossways, two inches thick, put them in the pan, with salt, pepper, chopped onions; fill it up; well intermix the seasoning; when full, put in a basin four ounces of flour, which mix with a quart of water, which pour over, shake the pot, well cover it, bake two hours in rather a hot oven; seasoning to be four teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, two onions, and chopped parsley; onions may be omitted, but use herbs and mixed spice.
Halibut, hake, ling, conger, cod, pike, carp, tench, perch, and piper may be done the same way.
Rice may be added in the following way:—A pound of previously boiled rice, two quarts of milk, a little sugar and salt, two ounces of butter, a squeeze of lemon, and put into the pan with the fish.
The addition of a few spoonfuls of fish sauce will greatly vary this dish. When done serve, without breaking the piece, if possible.
219. Pieces of Fish.—For a two-quart pan, cut four mackerel in three pieces each, which roll in flour, place them in rows in the pan, two teaspoonfuls of salt and a half pepper, two teaspoonfuls of chopped onions; fennel or parsley may be added; put in two gills of water, place cover over, bake one hour in a hot oven, and serve, having first taken off the oil from the top. 220. To Pickle Mackerel and Herrings in the Baking-pan.—When these fish are plentiful they may be done ;is follows, and will be found to keep and eat admirably well:—
Cut the mackerel into three pieces, enough to fill the one-gallon pan, lay some at the bottom and season, and continue thus until full; the seasoning should be four teaspoonfuls of salt, two of pepper, ten peppercorns, four onions sliced, a handful of parsley, chopped; add over all one quart of vinegar and a pint of water; place the cover over, and bake slowly for two hours; some sweet herbs or a bay-leaf may be added.
221. Herrings, pilchards, and sprats can be done as above, only a little variation to the seasoning and the time of cooking, according to the size; when quite cold pour some oil or lard on the top; put the cover on, and keep out the air as much as possible, and they will keep a long time.
222. Halibut, hake, ling, conger eel, plaice, gurnet, codlings, sturgeons, and haddock, may all be pickled as above. Cut halibut one inch thick and three inches in length; place them at the bottom of the pan; season over as before, and one teaspoonful of ground ginger and sweet herbs.
223. Baked Eels.—Cut several eels in pieces of three inches long, roll them in flour,put them in the two-quart pan, season with salt, pepper, chopped onions, a little thyme; continue until full, add a glass of sherry, half a pint of water, cover over with some crust, either pie or pudding, put on the lid, and bake one hour.
Seasoning, two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of pepper, and two of chopped onions. Take the oil off, and serve.
224. A Piece of Beef stewed in Baking Pan.—Get three wing ribs of beef, hone them, season with salt and pepper on. each side; to vary the flavour, chopped parsley and a little spice may he added, or even chopped onions; roll it round, and fasten it with string; rub more salt on it, and place it in the pan; send it to the baker's; four pounds will take one hour. This is the best part to bone, but most other pieces may be used. Stuff by making an incision in the lean part, and binding it up with string.
225. —If you wish a Yorkshire pudding and potatoes to be baked at the same time, they may be placed in it, and when it comes home all will be found excellent. Instead of the gratings in the pan, it may be divided in two, one for pudding and the other for potatoes.
All joints may be done the same way.
226. To Boil Meat in Pan.—Spice Beef.—Take four pounds of the thick ribs of beef, or any part, put in the pan, with a pint of water, a teaspoonful of allspice, two of salt, two bayleaves, two eschalots, or a little garlic; stew three hours, either in oven or on the fire, keeping the cover well closed; half an hour before being done add a teacupful of the raspings of bread, half a pint of vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, simmer, dish up, and sauce over.
227. Salt Meat.—To plain-boil this in the oven, which can be done when no fire is required at home, put six pounds of salt beef into a six-quart pan, with four whole parsnips, two large carrots, and six dumplings; send them to the oven for two hours; dish up the meat with the vegetables, and dumplings round. The liquor can be saved and made into soup; the vegetables can be cut in two.
All kinds of salt meat can be done the same. If the broth be too salt add some water, and use for pea-soup.
INTRODUCTION TO BAKING STEW-PAN.
My Dear Eloise,—In some of my former letters, I have stated that the principal art of cookery consists in knowing the exact time each object requires to be subjected to the action of the fire; whether it he direct, or by the assistance of either roasting, frying, baking, or boiling. Large quantities of food may be treated in such a manner, that no more nutriment shall be obtained than by smaller quantities j but to learn this requires practice and attention, more than those to whom we wish to dedicate these letters can probably give.
I have been thinking in what way we could obviate the present loss, which either ascends the chimney to disperse in thin air, or pervades the apartments of the house to the inconvenience of its inmates.
I am the more particularly led to the consideration of this subject from having, in my rambles, entered a cottage, the other day, from which an odour proceeded, as if something more than ordinary cookery was going on, when I found a large pot of a kind of Irish stew boiling away on the fire, and the fragrance of the vegetables and meat dispersed over the apartment. Entering into conversation with the occupant, whom I found to be the wife of a carpenter on the adjoining estate, and who was preparing the table for six persons to dine, I soon found she had no mean opinion of her abilities in cooking. I remonstrated with her on the waste she was making, and at once took up a plate, and held it over the pot, so as to intercept the steam, when it was shortly covered by condensed steam and small particles of flbrine, which I convinced her would be much better used in giving nutriment to her family than in mingling with the soot in the chimney.
In our superior kitchens there may be plenty of means and utensils to prevent a part of this evil; but in the cottage, the abode of the labourer, whose stock of kitchen utensils consists of an iron pot, frying-pan, and gridiron, these kind of stews could not be done without great waste and difficulty. I have therefore invented a new and' simple baking stew-pan, by which all the nutriment and flavour of the various ingredients placed in it are preserved. In order that you may understand it, I will give you a drawing and description of it, feeling confident it will be useful to the million. (See appendix at the end of book.)
It has, likewise, one great advantage over the old method of boiling or stewing, namely, that it gives hardly any trouble in making, retains all the nutriment, cooks in one-third less the time taken by the usual way, and there is not a part of any beast, such as mutton, lamb, beef, pork, veal, or fish, however tough, that may not be cooked tender by this pan. Let whatever you cook in it be sweet, you may, by using this pan and the following receipts, make delicious dishes of fish, flesh, or vegetables; moreover, food prepared in this way will keep much longer than if dressed another way, and must consequently facilitate the way of cooking for a large family, as you can do enough food at once to last for several meals, which you must admit will save an immense deal of time.
This modest pan, as you must perceive, will concentrate all the nutriment and aroma created by any kind of food placed in it; is to prevent any person raising the lid while cooking, as by so doing the best part of the flavour would immediately escape.
It is so constructed that it may be hung over the fire, or placed on the hob, or steamed or boiled in a stewpan (as you would a pudding boiled in a basin), or in a cottage or baker's oven.
You must agree, my excellent friend, that I have hitherto done all n my power to simplify and economize the food partaken of by the larger part of the people of this country, who, I am sorry to say, are much behind their continental neighbours in the art of cookery, though possessing the best kind of food, and certain I am that huge mountains might be erected with the food daily and hourly wasted, even at the doors of the poor.*
Is it possible, that in a country where the science of political economy has made such progress, that such men as Jeremy Bentham and others have written volumes to benefit their fellow men, and yet never have given one word on that science which would materially increase the food partaken of by all classes of society!
Now that I have explained to you my new method of cookery, you must try the following receipts, and then you will find my assertion to be correct.
171. Beef-steak in Baking Pan. First Lesson.—Take two pounds of beef steak, which cut in pieces the size of walnuts, but only half an inch thick; peel two pounds of potatoes, cut in slices a quarter of an inch thick, two middling-sized onions sliced; mix two teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper.
Then lay five or six slices of potatoes on the bottom of the pan, season them, then add some pieces of beef; season again, then potatoes and onions, then beef, until the pan is full, potatoes on the top, seasoning each time; pour three quarters of a pint of water, .ock the lid, put in your oven, or send to the baker's, for one hour and a half; when done shake the pot gently, that the gravy may mix with the potatoes and onions, and form a nice thick sauce. Skirt or any other part of beef is excellent done thus.
Observe, Eloise, that this is the plain foundation of every receipt which I am going to send you, on that simple and effective style of cookery. I have omitted all seasoning but salt and pepper; if onions are an objection omit them; therefore take this as a guide for all kinds of meat, poultry, and even fish, which are very good done in this way.
172. Another variety may be made, which gives a change; this is, to mix a quarter of a pound of flour with a little chopped suet, a little salt, a gill of water, to form a paste; roll it out to cover the meat, so that it fits to the sides of the pan; then put the cover on as usual, and bake. A little dripping will do for the paste.
You have often reproached me of liking to give varieties of seasoning; in the above it is according to your own heart; but having done so, let me give one according to my own liking, and though you say the majority of people are not fond of savoury cookery, and do not like any predominant flavour; but I am certain they only require to try it two or three times, and they will like it.
173. —The variation of seasoning is very slight, to the above add only two onions; four will give it a stronger flavour, and six for those fond of onions. These may be varied by the judicious use of the following spices—either two cloves, or one blade of mace, or six peppercorns, or a teaspoonful of powdered ginger. Or with the herbs, two small bay-leaves, two sprigs of fresh thyme, or some winter savory, or lemon thyme; if dried, a little more should be used; two teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley may be employed. A little celery seed is also very good. All these are to be increased in proportion to the size and contents of the pan.
174 Leg of Beef.—Take two pounds of the leg—that part which is full of sinew—cut as above, and season the same way; add a pint of water, and give another hour in the oven: meat without bone is preferable; any part of the beef will do for this receipt.
Or, instead of cutting the leg or any other part of the beast, the cheek may be put in whole, letting it weigh about four pounds. This process of cooking will make it very palatable and tender; to vary it, the meat may be larded, and a bunch of herbs (No. 460) added, also cloves, nutmeg, mace, or a little garlic.
175. Beef with Vegetables.—Peel two carrots, two turnips, two onions, cut in pieces, put some vegetables at the bottom, then the meat in centre; season, and cover over with remaining vegetables; add a few cloves, a pint of water, or half ale and half water; put in slow oven for three hours, take off the fat, and serve. Four pounds of any inferior part of beef will eat tender done thus.
176. Ox Tail.—Cut them at the joint, although I prefer them sawed through the piece; have ready some chopped onions and a little herbs; roll each piece in flour, place them carefully in the pan, with some of the onions and seasoning; add a pint of water, bake three hours, take off the fat, and serve.
177. Ox Heart and Kidneys.—The heart does not enjoy a very high reputation. I mean not only with the wealthy, but with the laborious part of the population, in consequence of the difficulty experienced in cooking it properly. It is thus generally left on the hands of the butcher, and consequently sold cheap; but I trust these receipts will occasion a change, and induce them to purchase those provisions which are now despised.
178. —Wash an ox heart in several waters, cut it in six pieces lengthways, like steak, lay a few slices of potatoes at the bottom of the pan, then a few slices of bacon, then the heart, then bacon again, and then potatoes over all; a few slices of beef suet, instead of the bacon, if none handy; it should be cut thin; season as you fill up, add half a pint of water, bake one hour, and serve.
179. —If a small heart, buy half an ox kidney, cut out the hard part, and divide it into small pieces, and mix it with the heart; if you can get a cow-heel already boiled, which is the case in large towns, it may be added in pieces, omitting the bone.
180. Calves', Sheep's, Pig's, or Ox Heart, stewed whole.—Fill a heart, as for roasting, with stuffing, No. 456a. Put in a, four quart pan a piece of fat bacon half an inch thick, and on it the heart, the thick part downwards; cut into slices some potatoes, carrots, turnips, and onions, and a piece of bacon cut in dice; season it with three teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper: fill up round the heart until the pan is full, put in a pint of water, and bake for two hours. A teaspoonful of sugar and three of browning may be added.
181.—Tongues, brains, and liver, ought to be set before putting in the pot. The tongue should be boiled for ten minutes, and then skinned. These may be done in the same way as the preceding.
182.—But supposing you have all these, and you wish to mix them together, then cut them into thin slices, leaving out the brain; put them on a dish, and for every pound of meat season with one teaspoonful of salt and a quarter ditto of pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of flour; then have one onion and half a pound of potatoes cut in slices to each pound of meat, and place in the pot as before, mixing the brain cut in pieces; add half a pint of water to each pound of meat; bake according to size.
Layers of suet pudding may be used instead of potatoes, and cover it with paste.
183. Good Plain Family Irish Stew. — Take about two pounds of scrag or neck of mutton; divide it into ten pieces, lay them in the pan; cut eight large potatoes and four onions in slices, season with one teaspoonful and a half of pepper, and three of salt; cover all with water; put it into a slow oven for two hours, then stir it all up well, and dish up in deep dishes. If you add a little more water at the commencement, you can take out when half done, a nice cup of broth.
The same simplified.—Put in a pan two pounds of meat as before, which lay at the bottom; cover them with eight whole onions, and these with twelve whole potatoes; season as before; cover over with water, and send to the oven for two hours. Almost any part of the sheep can be used for Irish stew. A gallon pan is required for this and the preceding receipt.
184. Ox Tongue, Potted and Braized.—I send you this receipt as a bonne bouche, it being a dish worthy a first-class picnic or the race-course. Take a tongue from the pickle, and wash it clean; cut off a part of the rough pieces of the root, put a thick slice of bacon at the bottom of the pan, and over that a pound of lean beefsteak or veal, and then the tongue turned round to fit the pan; have a cow-heel, parboiled and ready boned, place it on the tongue, and cover it with another slice of bacon, and a slice of beef or veal; season with two teaspoonfuls of pepper, a little powdered ginger and cloves, one bay-leaf, one carrot sliced, and two onions sliced; add two wineglassfuls of brandy or sherry, four of old ale, and one quart of water; cover well over, and put in a slow oven for three hours, take off the cover, and put a piece of board with a weight on the top until cold, then the next day turn it out of the pan, which you can do by placing the pan in hot water. But should you wish to use the tongue hot for dinner, take it out, and when done with it, put the remains in and press, as before described. The vegetables may be also pressed in with the meat or served hot round the tongue.
The remains of pickled ox tongues are very nice, intermixed and placed in a pan, and pressed, when they will turn out like collared head. A tongue boiled in plain water will take about two hours.
185. Ox Tongues, Fresh and Pickled.—Put in the pan, as above, add two carrots, four turnips, four cloves, ten small dumplings, (see No. 349,) fill the pan with water, add either a little bay-leaf, thyme, or winter savory; stew in an oven for three hours, trim and dish up with vegetables, and dumplings found, making soup of the broth. For fresh ox tongue, proceed as above, adding three teaspoonfuls of salt.
186. Veal.—Take two pounds of the leg of veal, or meat from the shoulder, or the neck or breast, in fact any part, cut in pieces; season it with one teaspoonful and a half of salt, and a half ot pepper, and add a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in slices. To vary the seasoning, use herbs, (No. 460 A). It will also be very good with some suet pudding, previously boiled in small calls, if you omit either potatoes or stuffing. The pieces of veal should be rolled in flour; add half a pint of water, if with potatoes, and more, if pudding or stuffing; bake one hour and a half, and serve. Mushrooms may be added.
187. Purchase six calves' tails, and after having had them washed, cut them about two inches in length, and cook them as above, with the addition of more vegetables, as carrots, turnips, &c. They are excellent and nutritious thus.
188. —Brown Ragout of Veal.—Take two pounds of the breast, cut it into rather small pieces, about the size of an egg, roll them well in flour, put some fat in the frying-pan, fry the meatwntil a nice brown, take it out, and then fry four onions, two turnips cut in large dice, and one carrot the same; when brown take them out, put the veal and vegetables into pan, season with two teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, add a pint of water, to which has been added four teaspoonfuls of browning; put into oven for one hour, skim the fat, shake the pan, and serve. A few herbs and a little ham or bacon is an improvement. Beef, mutton, lamb, and pork may be done the same way. A teaspoonful of sugar is an improvement.
189. Fillet of Veal for an Extra Dinner.—A small fillet of veal, boned and stuff with No. 456; tie it up tight, put some fat into a fryingpan, about an inch deep; put in the fillet, fry gently until one side is brown, and then put in the other side until brown; fry in the same pan some large button onions whole, some turnips and carrots, cut in pieces the size of eggs; put the fillet into a pan, with a piece of fat bacon at the bottom; fill up round it with the vegetables; put another piece of bacon on the top, add some seasoning to the vegetables, and a pint of water; put on the cover, so that the steam does not escape; put it into a slow oven, giving a quarter of an hour for each pound weight. When served take out the fillet, put the gravy into a small basin, and skim off the fat; pour the gravy over the veal, and either serve the vegetables round the fillet or separate. A little browning is an improvement.
190. The following is another favourite dish of mine:—It is to lard a calf's liver with about twenty pieces of bacon (see No. 459), put about a quarter of a pound of fat or dripping into a frying pan, fry for twenty minutes until of a nice brown colour, place it in the baking stew-pan, also fry a quarter cf a pound of bacon cut in dice, twenty large button onions, twenty pieces of carrot, twenty of turnip; when a nice colour throw two ounces of flour over them, and stir; three teaspoonfuls of salt, and a small one of pepper, two of sugar; put all this into the pan, add three pints of hot coloured water No. 462 A, and a bunch of sweet herbs; shake the pan well, and place in oven for two hours; skim the fat and serve. These preparations are for a large sized liver. Pig's, lamb's, and sheep's liver, is excellent done thus. You may place all the above ingredients in the baking pan without frying any; it will be very good, though not so savoury in flavour.
191. Beef-à-la-Mode.—Take a piece of the thick part of the rump of beef, about four pounds, not too fat; take half a pound of fat bacon and a calf's foot; cut the bacon into pieces about two inches long and half an inch square, lard the beef through with the bacon (see No. 459), place the beef in the pan, and also the foot, divided in two, and a bunch of sweet herbs, two middle-sized carrots, cut into squares, and twenty button onions, or four or six large ones, cut into slices; add half a quartern of brandy, a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, one pint of water, put the cover on the pan, to prevent the steam escaping, and send it to the baker's for three hours; should it be done at home, turn the pan so that the heat is equal on all sides; when done remove the fat from the top, put the beef in a dish, with the foot on each side, and the carrots and onions round; throw the gravy over; take away the herbs. This, you may perceive, is a most exquisite dish, will keep good many days in winter, and five or six in summer. It is good cold.
192. The same plainer.—Proceed as above, adding half a pint of old ale instead of the brandy, or a wineglass of vinegar and an ox-foot instead of a calf's-foot. Any piece of the fleshy part of the ox is good done so.
193. The same, to be eaten cold.—Cut the beef into square pieces, of a quarter of a pound each, cut ten pieces of lean, bacon three inches long, have a cowheel already boiled in about two quarts of water, with two onions, pepper and salt, and a little vinegar; take the cowheel and remove all the bones, and place it, with the meat and bacon, in the pan, with the liquor in which the heel was boiled, two carrots cut into small dice, ten gherkins cut into slices, and sent to the oven for three hours; take off the cover, and place a flat piece of board on the top of the meat, with a heavy weight, so as to make it firm; and when cold use it. It is very good for breakfast. To remove it from the pan place the pan in hot water for a few minutes, and turn it over; it will come out easily, and cut like brawn, or it may be cut from the pan.
194. Leg, Breast, Scrag, and Head of Lamb.—These may all be done as follows:—Put it into a gallon pan, with one carrot, two turnips, one leek, cut in thick slices, thirty young button onions whole, three teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, cover with water, and set it on the fire, or in your oven for one hour; at the end of one hour put in one pint of peas, a little green mint, and a teaspoonful of sugar; set it by the side of the fire or in the oven for half an hour longer, and serve. This is for a leg or joint of five pounds weight; for a larger one take a little longer time. A bunch of parsley and sweet-herbs may be added, but should be removed when served. The flavour is exquisite, an^l may be served with vegetable or without, as liked, but then the broth should be strained, and the vegetables served separate, or the broth made into spring or other soups.
195. Pork.—Any part, not too fat, is exceedingly good done in this way: Cut two pounds in slices, rather large and thin, season with salt and pepper, then add a few slices of fat, then some slices of potatoes, then pork and then potatoes, until all is in; add half a pint of water. Bake one hour and a half.
196. Another way with Apple.—Cut the pork in thick pieces, peel two baking apples, four onions, and eight potatoes, cut them in slices, season with pepper and salt, and, if liked, a little powdered sage, intermix the vegetables, lay the slices and the vegetables together, half a pint of water, or enough to cover it. Bake two hours and serve.
197. Another, simpler.—When in a great hurry proceed thus:—Put in a dish two pounds of pork in slices, one onion, one pound of potatoes, also sliced; two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of pepper, one of flour; mix all well together, put it in the pan with half a pint of water. Bake one hour and a half. A little bone may be used with the meat.
198. Salt Pork with Peas.—Take two pounds of the belly of pork, cut into large dice, wash half a pint of split peas, put them into a three-quart pan, with some pepper, and half a carrot cut in small pieces, fill it up with cold water, send it to the oven for two hours, stir up the peas well before serving. A few vegetables may be introduced. Rice may be used instead of peas.
199. Salt Pork may be used thus: Take a four-quart pan, cut up the pork and some greens, remove the stalk, slice them, and also add four onions sliced, four cloves, and one teaspoonful of pepper; press it well down; put over it a quarter of a pound of dripping, add a pint of water, and stew for three hours; a little salt may be added if the pork is not salt enough; it will make an excellent soup if filled up with water half an hour previous to using.
Red cabbage may also be used, but first boiled for ten minutes in plain water; then add half a pint of vinegar and twelve peppercorns, if handy.
200. Green Peas and Pork.—Put a piece of salt pork, about two pounds, into pan, with a quart of peas; fill up with water, add two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, one of sugar, two onions; bake for three hours. Salt beef is also good; a little mint may be added. Three pints of large peas alone, with a little dripping, is good as above.
201. Cabbage and Pork.—Cut two good Savoy cabbages in thin slices, wash them, put half in pan, then a piece of pork about two pounds, or either ham, bacon, or salt beef; season as foregoing receipt, add the remainder of the cabbage; season again; add, if you have it, four cloves, or pepper corns, four onions, and a bunch of sweet herbs: do not fill it with water to the brim, or it will boil over. Red cabbage may be used the same way, only adding half a pint of vinegar, and if beef, two ounces of dripping.
202. Haricot beans and other pulse may be done precisely the same way. In fact, all dried pulse may be here used, and I cannot too strongly recommend both the dried haricot beans and lentils. I have also latterly tried the dried green pea, well soaked for twenty hours, and dressed as haricots and lentils. I find that one pint absorbs two quarts of water. It makes an agreeable as well as economical food.
203. Beef and Pork.—Semi-Carthusian Fashion.—Sausages, cervelas, saveloys, beef sausages, knuckles of ham, and salted pig^s feet and tongue, which are daily to be obtained in London, may be dressed in this way: Buy two good savoys or white cabbages, cut them in four, take out the hard stalk, and boil them for ten minutes in water; place them in a dish to drain; cut the quarters again into four, lay some at the bottom of the pan, then a few sausages and saveloys, season with salt and pepper, and the.i fill up the pan; then add two ounces of dripping or suet, half a pint of water, bake one hour and a half, and serve with cabbage under, and sausages on the top.
Red cabbage with saveloys are preferable; then add one gill of vinegar, a few peppercorns; stew them longer, and serve as above. I have tried with raw cabbage; it is not bad, and saves time.
Two or three onions sliced may be added, or one large Spanish onion.
This receipt will do for pig's feet, knuckles of ham, trimmings of ham or pork, a piece of cooked brisket of beef, which is generally sold underdone, in which case the cabbage should be done first. Sheeps' and pigs' tongues are very good done in this way, and they make a cheap and wholesome meal.
204. Large Dutch Rabbits.—Put into a one gallon pan a rabbit, cut into about eighteen or twenty pieces; peel eight onions, twenty potatoes cut into thin slices; also half a pound of bacon cut into dice, season with salt and pepper, then place the meat and potatoes in layers, add nearly a pint of water; cover over and bake two hours; shake the pan round and serve.
205. Curry Rabbits.—Proceed as above; only add to the water two teaspoonfuls of curry powder; let it well mix, or season with it at the same time as the other seasoning.
The same may be done with rice instead of potatoes, but use two quarts of water to every pound of rice. One pound of good rice ought to weigh five pounds when boiled.
206. Plain Rabbit, Chickens, or Pigeons for Invalids.— The rabbit should be cut into nice pieces; the chicken in quarters; the pigeons into halves; place it in a two-quart pan> with a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in dice, a little salt and pepper; a few sprigs of parsley, and half a pint of water, if the pan is not quite full; fill up with some small pieces of veal; put a plain paste over all, No. 317; put cover close over, and bake one hour. Skim the fat off, and serve.
The deep tin dish at the bottom of the pan is to contain either pudding, gravy, or vegetables, the grating above is to lay any meat, poultry, fish, or game on, you wish to cook by this process.
207. Ribs of Beef semi-roasted.—Purchase two ribs of beef, bone them, then season the interior of the meat with salt and pepper; roll the meat round like a cheese, using a piece of string or a skewer to keep it in that position; make a quart of batter, as No. 462 i put it in your pan, which previously well grease; put the grating over, and lay your meat on it, surrounding it with potatoes either whole or cut; allowing from twelve to fifteen minutes for each pound of meat, according to the state of the oven. Dish up the beef with the potatoes round, and serve the pudding in the tin, or turn it out on a dish. The beef may be stuffed with stuffing, No. 464.
Nothing is more objectionable to me than to see salt put on the top of a roast joint, and water poured over to make the gravy. The only way to remedy this is to put a gill of boiling water and a little salt on the hot dish you intend putting the meat on, turning the joint in it once during the interval of a minute; and, whilst carving, the juice from the meat will mingle with it and make a good gravy. Half a teaspoonful of colouring, much improves its appearance. This is applicable to all roasted or semi-roasted joints.
For large ribs of beef or sirloins, you can put the salt on the bones at the back of the joint, and pour half a pint of boiling water over; not however disturbing the meat.
Brown gravy, No. 2, or broth, No. 1, will be found preferable to either of the above.
208. Mutton semi-roasted.—Half a leg of mutton, about iOur pounds, potatoes and pudding, if liked, under, will take about one hour. Shoulder the same.
209. Pork semi-roasted.—Place in the bottom four apples, peeled, four onions sliced, and potatoes, and over that a joint of pork, rubbed with salt and pepper; sprinkle a little sage; add half a pint of water in the pan: hake for two hours.
For a change, pork should be purchased the day before using, covering it all over with salt; and then scrape it well before cooking it, makes it eat short and savoury.
210. Lamb semi-roasted.—Boil some spinach in salt and water, drain it well, and chop it up; put it in the pan, seasoned with salt and pepper; put potatoes over the grating, and then the joint of lamb; small ribs or shoulder will take an hour; leg, one hour and thirty minutes. Dish it up with the spinach separate, the fat having been removed from it. Greens of any kind may be done in the same manner, particularly the young leaf of the white beet, which is an excellent substitute for spinach, or even chopped nettles: these are also good under pork, veal, or beef, as also is a Yorkshire pudding, as at ribs of beef, No. 176.
211. Poultry semi-roasted.—Almost any kind of vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, onions, potatoes, celery, or mushrooms, may be put raw in the pan and cooked under poultry, as well as cabbage, spinach, or greens, previously boiled and chopped.
1st Lesson.—Pluck, draw, and stuff a middle-sized fowl; peel and cut in middling-sized pieces about half a pound of carrots, the same of turnips; place them in the pan with half a pint of water, half a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, and half of pepper; put the grating over, placing the fowl on it, surrounding it with peeled potatoes, season a little more, bake for an hour, and serve; also rub a little butter or fat over the breast, or cover it with a few slices of bacon; a little colouring may be added to the gravy.
This receipt is applicable to all kinds of birds, game, or poultry, allowing about ten minutes baking to every pound of large poultry or game, and the smaller ones in proportion.
212. Rabbits, stuffed, put sliced onions in the bottom of the pan, if liked, or boiled rice, previously seasoned, and a bit of butter, &c.; put half a pint of water; hake thirty-five or fifty minutes, according to size, and serve.
If any joint happens to be too fat, it will not do to put a Yorkshire pudding under, as the fat would prevent it setting but if either greens, boiled rice, or potatoes, are added, you will be able to press the fat off with the back of a spoon, or a plate, or the vegetable presser, (see Appendix,) and serve separately.
To semi-roast a Joint with gravy only.—Put in the pan half a pint of water, together with half a teaspoonful of salt, hall that of pepper. When done, take off the fat, add a little colouring, pour under the joint, and serve.
Once or twice a year every cottager ought to kill a pig. If a pig is washed and kept clean, it softens the skin and allows it to expand; in fact, a pig thus treated comes much quicker round; it is proved that a pig at fourteen months, kept clean, is equal to one at eighteen which is not attended to. The same day some of the liver may he fried, but the rest can be used in the pan as follows :—
213. Cut it into large dice; put two ounces of fat or dripping into frying-pan, cut up a quarter of a pound of bacon into small dice, fry them for five minutes, and then shake over a teaspoonful of flour, put in the liver, with one teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, fry it for five minutes, add a gill of water, keep stirring, and put it into pan, with a pound of turnips cut in small dice, four onions cut in four, and half a pint of boiling water; put into a slow oven for fifty minutes, and then serve with toasted sippets round the dish. A hunch of herbs, No. 460, may he added.
Veal, sheeps', lamhs', and ox liver, and kidneys, may all be done the same way; less time for lamb and more for ox; any other vegetables may he used, and particularly mushrooms.
214. Veal.—Take six pounds of veal usually used for roasting, rub it with salt, put half a pint of water in the tin, and potatoes above, and then the veal; it will take two hours. When it is served, take off the fat from the gravy in the pan, and pour over the veal, reserving the fat for puddings. A piece of bacon and greens should he boiled at home, or a small piece of bacon may he placed with the potatoes; dish the veal with the potatoes, and bacon round it or separate; add a little colouring to gravy.
A piece of veal stuffed may he roasted thus. Or, for gravy, make melted butter No. 410, with four teaspoonfuls of Harvey sauce, or ketchup, and pour it over.
215. Toad in the Hole.—No. 1.—May he made in either a baking-dish, pie-dish, or tin. Get about two pounds of trimmings if either beef, mutton, veal, or lamb, not too fat, and cut them into pieces, each about the size of a small egg; season with salt and pepper, make about two quarts of batter, second class; grease the pan well, put in the meat and batter, and place in a slow oven for nearly two hours, and serve hot.
No. 2, with Potatoes.—Proceed as before. When the pan is ready put about two pounds of previously boiled potatoes, cut in slices, and bake as before.
No. 3, with Peas.—Proceed as before, only adding about one quart of good green peas, previously boiled; broad beans may be used the same way.
No. 4.—Remains of cooked meat may be done the same way, but it will take less time to cook.
No. 5. — Calves', or any brains, previously parboiled in water, and the skin removed, well seasoned with pepper and salt, and a few slices of bacon added to the batter, make a very delicate dish.
No. 6.—Six larks or twelve sparrows, with a slice of bacon skewered round each, with the batter, and put into the oven for two hours.
No. 7.—Ox cheek and sheeps' heads, previously cooked and nicely seasoned, with the addition of a little chopped onions added to the batter, is an economical dish. A few slices of cooked potatoes may be added.
No. 8.—Truss a rabbit for roasting, make a stuffing with the liver, &c., chopped up, bread-crumbs, beef-suet, and seasoning; stuff the rabbit; lay on the bottom of the pan a thick slice of fat bacon, and over that a slice, one inch thick, of beefsteak, and then the rabbit, to which add two quarts of batter; place in the oven for two hours, and serve hot. This is enough for a large family. The rabbit may be cut in pieces; boiled cauliflower may be added.
No. 9.—Remains of previously cooked hare may be done in the same way, with some currant-jelly in the stuffing.
No. 10.—A blade-bone of pork, two onions, cut in slices, and four potatoes sliced, pepper and salt, and one quart of batter put over them; place in the oven one hour, and serve hot. No. 11.—Remains of salt pork, or any roast meat, may all be done in this way, and varied according to the taste of the partaker.
Remains of any kind of fish may also be done thus, with previously boiled potatoes.
216. Jugged Mare.—Cut a small hare into pieces about the size of eggs, cut half a pound of bacon into dice not too small, lay both on a dish, mix together three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four of flour, three of chopped onions, one of powdered thyme and bay-leaf, four cloves, and a quarter of a nutmeg, grated; rub the hare and bacon with these; place them in the pan. Having saved the blood, chop up the liver and mix with it, add to it a wineglass of brandy, or two of port or sherry, or one of vinegar, or half a pint of ale, stout, or porter, and a pint of water; put this in the pan, and cover over with pudding-paste No. 319; put on the cover; shake the whole well to make it mix; and bake for three hours, if an old hare; if a young one two hours. It is equally as good cold as hot. If eaten hot, a little currant-jelly should be served with it.
Some stuffing No. 456, made into little balls, can be added with advantage, or even a few suet balls, and two tablespoonfuls of colouring; mix with the water. It can be done plainer, with salt and pepper and water only; or twenty small onions and eight potatoes, cut in slices, may be added, or even mushrooms may be put in.
217. Jugged Hare, Marinaded.—It should be cut as above, and put into a bowl, with half water and half vinegar to cover it; four teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, four of brown sugar, two onions cut in slices, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, cloves, peppercorns; turn them now and then for four days, and cook as above, with the marinade in.
218. How to cook all kinds of Fish in Baking Stew-pan.—Take six pounds of any fish, cut it crossways, two inches thick, put them in the pan, with salt, pepper, chopped onions; fill it up; well intermix the seasoning; when full, put in a basin four ounces of flour, which mix with a quart of water, which pour over, shake the pot, well cover it, bake two hours in rather a hot oven; seasoning to be four teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, two onions, and chopped parsley; onions may be omitted, but use herbs and mixed spice.
Halibut, hake, ling, conger, cod, pike, carp, tench, perch, and piper may be done the same way.
Rice may be added in the following way:—A pound of previously boiled rice, two quarts of milk, a little sugar and salt, two ounces of butter, a squeeze of lemon, and put into the pan with the fish.
The addition of a few spoonfuls of fish sauce will greatly vary this dish. When done serve, without breaking the piece, if possible.
219. Pieces of Fish.—For a two-quart pan, cut four mackerel in three pieces each, which roll in flour, place them in rows in the pan, two teaspoonfuls of salt and a half pepper, two teaspoonfuls of chopped onions; fennel or parsley may be added; put in two gills of water, place cover over, bake one hour in a hot oven, and serve, having first taken off the oil from the top. 220. To Pickle Mackerel and Herrings in the Baking-pan.—When these fish are plentiful they may be done ;is follows, and will be found to keep and eat admirably well:—
Cut the mackerel into three pieces, enough to fill the one-gallon pan, lay some at the bottom and season, and continue thus until full; the seasoning should be four teaspoonfuls of salt, two of pepper, ten peppercorns, four onions sliced, a handful of parsley, chopped; add over all one quart of vinegar and a pint of water; place the cover over, and bake slowly for two hours; some sweet herbs or a bay-leaf may be added.
221. Herrings, pilchards, and sprats can be done as above, only a little variation to the seasoning and the time of cooking, according to the size; when quite cold pour some oil or lard on the top; put the cover on, and keep out the air as much as possible, and they will keep a long time.
222. Halibut, hake, ling, conger eel, plaice, gurnet, codlings, sturgeons, and haddock, may all be pickled as above. Cut halibut one inch thick and three inches in length; place them at the bottom of the pan; season over as before, and one teaspoonful of ground ginger and sweet herbs.
223. Baked Eels.—Cut several eels in pieces of three inches long, roll them in flour,put them in the two-quart pan, season with salt, pepper, chopped onions, a little thyme; continue until full, add a glass of sherry, half a pint of water, cover over with some crust, either pie or pudding, put on the lid, and bake one hour.
Seasoning, two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of pepper, and two of chopped onions. Take the oil off, and serve.
224. A Piece of Beef stewed in Baking Pan.—Get three wing ribs of beef, hone them, season with salt and pepper on. each side; to vary the flavour, chopped parsley and a little spice may he added, or even chopped onions; roll it round, and fasten it with string; rub more salt on it, and place it in the pan; send it to the baker's; four pounds will take one hour. This is the best part to bone, but most other pieces may be used. Stuff by making an incision in the lean part, and binding it up with string.
225. —If you wish a Yorkshire pudding and potatoes to be baked at the same time, they may be placed in it, and when it comes home all will be found excellent. Instead of the gratings in the pan, it may be divided in two, one for pudding and the other for potatoes.
All joints may be done the same way.
226. To Boil Meat in Pan.—Spice Beef.—Take four pounds of the thick ribs of beef, or any part, put in the pan, with a pint of water, a teaspoonful of allspice, two of salt, two bayleaves, two eschalots, or a little garlic; stew three hours, either in oven or on the fire, keeping the cover well closed; half an hour before being done add a teacupful of the raspings of bread, half a pint of vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, simmer, dish up, and sauce over.
227. Salt Meat.—To plain-boil this in the oven, which can be done when no fire is required at home, put six pounds of salt beef into a six-quart pan, with four whole parsnips, two large carrots, and six dumplings; send them to the oven for two hours; dish up the meat with the vegetables, and dumplings round. The liquor can be saved and made into soup; the vegetables can be cut in two.
All kinds of salt meat can be done the same. If the broth be too salt add some water, and use for pea-soup.
Notes:
[*] While on my Governmental mission through Ireland, in the year of the famine, 1847, the following conversation took place between Lord Bessborough, then Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, and myself, after my return from visiting the interior of the country:—
"In an interview granted by his excellency, his lordship asked me if I could account for the generality of the people being so poor; when I replied, 'Easily, my lord: why they actually manure the land with gold to reap copper.' 'How do you make that out?' was his excellency's inquiry. 'Why, my lord, they waste tons of good fish on the ground to grow a few potatoes.' 'In your opinion, why do they do it?' 'Why, my lord? Because they know how to cook potatoes to perfection, and are totally ignorant of the way to cook fish.' 'Well, I believe you are' right,' said his lordship; 'but how could the evil be remedied?' 'Easily,' I replied. 'I would first show them how to cook their food, no matter how simple such food might be, and prove to them that the maize, or American flour, now so much in use, if properly prepared, would be a blessing instead of a curse; also the necessity of using with their food other vegetables besides potatoes, as well as instruct them in several plain ways of cooking fish, which could be had in abundance all the year round, at a very cheap rate; it would, at the same time, give employment on the coast to thousands of indolent people, as well as circulate an immense deal of money in the interior of the country, and much improve the condition of these poor wretched beings who only seem to have been born to live between poverty and starvation.
"My plan would be to have public lecturers appointed, whose duty it should be to go round as often as the agricultural lecturer, and teach the people how to cook the food which that person now endeavours to make them cultivate.
"Until this is done, this country will never emerge out of tii semi-barbarous state in which it is at present."
His lordship took a note of the conversation, but sudden illness prevented my ideas being carried out.