Alexis Soyer's Part 6: Roasting and Oven Baking
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ON ROASTING.
My Dear Eloise,—My last letter you must have misunderstood. I did not mean that roasting before the fire should he entirely done away with, but that, on the score of economy, it should not be practised in the cottage, but that my new plan of semi-roasting should be followed. I was the more particularly led to these remarks, from having, last Sunday, immediately after church, visited several colliers' cottages belonging to a Mr. Pope, close to this place. My motive for doing so was to see the economy of the cottage, as well as the kind of food they had for dinner. The first I went into had a piece of the belly or flap of beef, just taken down from a dangle, having been roasted. It was lying in the dripping pan, and was a great deal over done; in fact, dried. Noticing, in the course of conversation, that the fire was spoiling it still more, I took a plate from the table, and placed it against it, so that it should not burn. The old lady noticed my proceeding, and asked me if I was going to have a bit of dinner with them?" No, thank you, my dear madam," replied I. "Then let me take away the plate, as it will spoil our dinner." "How do you make that out?" I asked. "Well, the fat is not yet half out of the meat, and my Thomas will not eat fat, unless it is dripping in the crust of pies or puddings." I then perceived that the meat was, in their estimation, a second consideration, and that they paid the price of beef for the fat, paying eightpence per pound for the meat, when they could get the fat at fivepence. There was scarcely any nutriment left in the meat—that which weighed five pounds before roasting, weighing hardly three pounds when done. There were seven to dine off it—the grandmother, the two parents, and four children. There was, besides, a few potatoes galloping on the fire—no other vegetable, and no puddings or sweets for the children, but excellent home-made bread, and not bad small beer. You may now perceive that some little improvement in this style of cookery would be an immense saving to these cottagers, and out of the three shillings and fourpence they paid for the beef, if done in the pan, with a pudding and potatoes under, and the meat not quite so fat, they would have got a good dinner and plenty for the next day, either hot or cold. If they wanted dripping, they could get fat at four or fivepence, instead of eightpence, and prepare it as No. 464c. It will keep for a long time, without turning sour.
I visited, immediately after, several other of the cottages, in which. I found steaks cooked dry, indeed, some half burnt, chumps of mutton half done, half legs of mutton neither boiled or baked; in one a sheep's head baked, and very nicely done, with potatoes round it, which was very inviting; there was also suet dumplings for the children, with treacle over. This cottage was cleaner than any of the others, and the children were neatly dressed, and about to change their costume, in order to do full justice to the treacle dumplings. In giving those rosy-cheeked urchins a few pence, I retired much gratified by my visit to these antediluvian workmen, who pass one-third of their life in the bowels of the earth.
You will perceive from what I have said, that to the artisan, labourer, and even the small tradesman, the old mode of roasting, which comes to us from Homeric ages and primitive times, is an extravagant and wasteful mode of cooking, and the sooner it is reformed the better. Though it is preferable to meat done in a baker's oven, if well attended to.
But first let me add one more remark on the experience of that day. Returning to the Normanton Hotel to dinner, we had a beautiful dish of greens; and what do you think those greens were? Green young nettles, which I had asked the gardener to gather for me the day previous, and in less than half an hour we had a basket full. I picked them with gloves, but he made a grasp at a large quantity, and I found that they did not prick him. He got them as fast as a monkey could get chestnuts out of hot cinders. The cook dressed them, according to my directions, exactly like spinach, and most who ate of them thought they were spinach, only rather too hot of pepper, which is their peculiar nature.
I found that they are known in this part of the country as being good and wholesome in the spring; but because the people can have them for nothing, they will not partake of them; like the watercresses, that rot in every clear stream in the neighbourhood. I intend to make another trial or so on the nettles, which I will forward to you.
HOW TO ROAST.
Having, thus far, given you some of my experience as regards roasting, I will, in as few words as possible, describe the simple plan of roasting before the fire, which, I must again repeat, is far from being economical. The artisan requires as much nourishment as possible, and should not pay extravagantly for fancy joints, or those called the best, because most in vogue for roasting. Let the wealthy pay for their taste, as they do for their Raphaels, Rubens, and Murillos; it is no reason, because they do so, that a labouring man should imitate them, and because one has a leg of mutton, the other should likewise have one. This very day I have seen, in Nottingham market, all the best joints sold by the butchers, and nothing but the necks of mutton and the coarse pieces of beef left, which, they tell me, hang for days and days, lessening both quality and quantity, and then are sold at twopence or threepence per pound. This causes the joints most in vogue to be dear, whilst there is quite as much nourishment in proportion in those sold at half the price when cooked fresh.
I must here, however, describe the proper system of roasting either before the fire or by gas (see note). And as an invariable rule, all dark meats, such as beef and mutton, should be put down to a sharp fire for at least fifteen minutes, until the outside has a coating of osmazome or gravy, then remove it back, and let it do gently. Lamb, veal, and pork, if young and tender, should be done at a moderate fire. Veal even should be covered with paper.
Very rich meat, if covered with paper, does not require basting Fowls, &c., should be placed close to the fire, to set the skin, and in about ten minutes rubbed over with a small piece of butter, pressed in a spoon. Roast meats should be dredged with flour, just at the time when the gravy begins to appear; the flour absorbs it, and forms a coating which prevents any more coming out. Hares and small game the same.
COTTAGE BOASTING.
In the first place, the fire must be made up, and cleared from ashes. Place before it the dripping-pan, and from above the fire, suspend from a hook a piece of worsted thread, sufficiently strong to bear the joint, aud a hook suspended at the end. Have a piece of stick forked at one end, which place against the mantle-piece, so that it keeps the thread at a sufficient distance from the fire. By having two pieces of stick, the distances can be easily managed. Twist the worsted; put on the joint; give it a sufficient distance from the fire. This is quite equal to either a smoke or bottle-jack for cottage use.
Every cottage should have a moveable piece of iron or steel screwed on the mantel-piece, with teeth fixed in it, so as to be able to hang the joint at any distance from the fire. See Appendix, at end of book.
Note.
ON THE COMFORT AND ECONOMY OF ROASTING BY GAS, WHERE IT CAN BE PROCURED.
Experiment made at the Moyal Naval School, Greenwich Hospital, by M. Soyer.
Two interesting trials have taken place at the above establishment with an apparatus manufactured by Messrs. Smith and Phillips, patentees, of Skinner-street, Snow-hill, under the superintendence of M. Soyer, which in their results finally determine the question on the merits and economy of roasting by gas.
The result of the first trial, which took place on the 8th inst., was, that 36 legs of mutton, weighing 288 lbs., were roasted at a cost of 1s. 2d.
In order to arrive at more positive results in regard to its economy a second trial was deemed requisite, which took place on the 11th inst., when equal weights of mutton were cooked. Twenty-three joints, weighing 184 lbs., were roasted by gas, at a cost of 10 1/2d., with gas supplied at 4s. per 1000 feet. When cooked, the above weight of meat was found to weigh 145 lbs., dripping 19 lbs., and gravy, or osmazome, 2 1/2 lbs., thus showing the actual loss to be 18 3/4 lbs. Twenty-three joints of mutton were cooked in the usual way, as adopted at the institution, namely, in one of Count Romford's ovens, hitherto considered the most economical way of roasting. When put in they weighed 184 lbs., when done 132 lbs., dripping 18 lbs., gravy none, thus showing a loss of 34 lbs. The coke consumed in this oven was 102 lbs., coal 30 lbs., thus proving the great economy of gas over the oven by a saving of 13 lbs. of meat, 1 lb. of dripping, 2 3/4 lbs. of gravy. The value of the saving is as follows:— Meat at 6d. per lb., 6s. 6d.; dripping at 5d. per lb., 5d., and gravy at 1s. 6d. per lb., 4s. 1 1/2d., making a total of 11s. 0 1/2 d.
The experiments took place before the governor, Sir C. Adam, and lady, Sir J. Liddle, M.D., Lieut. Rouse, general superintendent, Lieut. Monk, Messrs. Lee and Seville, inspector of works, who expressed their admiration at the cleanliness and simplicity of the apparatus.
In order to show the advantage of the system in all its branches, a rump steak was broiled by M. Soyer, before the company present, who partook of it, and who declared it was perfection, and free from all odour.—Mechanics' Magazine.
TIME TABLE FOR ROASTING.
228. Ten pounds of beef will take from two hours to two hours and a half roasting, eighteen inches from a good fire. Six pounds one hour and a quarter to one hour and a half, fourteen inches from the fire.
Three ribs of beef, boned and rolled (see No. 207), well tied round with paper, will take two hours and a half, eighteen inches from the fire, and only baste once.
If beef is very fat, it does not require basting; if very lean, tie it up in greasy paper, and baste well.
229. Eight pounds of veal will take from one hour and a half to two hours, eighteen inches from the fire: if stuffed, at least two hours.
Chump, or loin and kidneys, of four pounds, will take one hour and a quarter; baste well.
Six pounds of breast one hour, twelves inches from the fire.
Six pounds of the shoulder or neck the same.
Calf s heart, stuffed and tied up in paper, three quarters of an hour.
230. Mutton (leg of eight pounds), will take one hour and a half, eighteen inches from the fire.
Saddle, ten pounds, one hour and a quarter to one hour and a half, eighteen inches, measuring from the flat surface.
Shoulder, one hour and a half.
Loin, one hour and a half.
Breast, three quarters of an hour.
Neck, one hour.
231. Lamb, according to size, hut in the same proportion less than mutton, hut ought always to he well done, and placed nearer the fire; if a good fire about fifteen inches from it.
Pork should be well done.
Leg of six pounds, with skin over, two hours, eighteen inches from the fire.
Loin of the same, one hour.
Neck, the same weight, one hour and three-quarters.
Pork rubbed with salt the night previous, and then scraped before roasting, improves the flavour.
In roasting of beef, mutton, lamb, pork, and poultry, place a dripping-pan under the meat, with a little clear dripping or fat, which should be very hot when the meat is basted. A quarter of an hour before serving add half a pint of water to the fat in the dripping-pan; dredge the meat with flour and salt. When the meat is dished up, pour the contents of the pan into a basin, straining it through a gauze sieve kept on purpose; remove all the fat, add a little colouring and salt to the gravy, and pour it into the dish under the meat.
Veal and poultry should have half the quantity of water put in the pan, and that, when strained, added to half a pint of thick melted butter, adding two teaspoonfuls of any sauce for flavour, as Harvey's, Soyer's, or ketchup, &c.
Sage and onions to be served with pork.
Mint sauce with lamb.
Currant-jelly with mutton.
232. Roasting of Poultry.—I proceed thus: Hang it up with worsted, about ten inches from the fire, let it hang for ten minutes to set the skin, then press into a wooden spoon a piece of butter or hard dripping; when the skin is very hot rub it over with the fat in the spoon until all is melted, then draw it back to about twelve inches: a good sized fowl will take three quarters of an hour, chicken twenty minutes, middle-sized goose one hour, turkey, fourteen pounds, two hours and a half hare, large, one hour and a half, if very young three quarters of an hour. Never baste them, but dredge all, after having well rubbed them over with butter, as for fowls.
Small game should be placed nearer the fire.
I always stuff both poultry and game with stuffing No. 464, and make the gravy as for the joints.
Apple sauce with goose.
Currant jelly for hare.
Fried bread-crumbs with grouse.
Bread sauce with partridge and pheasant.
ON MEAT IN BAKER'S OVEN.
Though this system of cooking meat is far from receiving my approbation, especially on the score of economy, still, it would be very ridiculous on our part, Eloise, to think that we should be able entirely to reform this semi-barbarian method of spoiling food. No; it must be a work of time that will prevent small folk from running to the baker's on Sunday with either their legs or shoulders under their arms. The reason why they have recourse to such a process is at once simple and easily explained: first of all, it gives them no trouble, and hardly any of them study economy, so long as the dinner will cook itself, though in company with a score or two or other joints, perhaps no two being of the same size or quality.
How can a baker, even one of the most conscientious of that useful class of individuals, be answerable for the proper cooking of this awkward squad, if such we may term it. How also can he prevent the potatoes galavanting from one dish to another, or even joints changing dishes, and by mistake, going to the wrong home—impossible! Is he to be answerable if an eel crawls out of Mrs. Armstrong's pie (having been put in whole), and, after cooking, being found reposing under one of Mrs. Smith's ribs? or can he prevent Mrs. Jenkins's cod's head staring a neighbouring pig's face out of countenance? No more would he be able to obviate the above evils, than he could disentangle the fragrance which emanates from each homely volcano, forming, as it does, an aerial coating of osmazome under the same roof.
Moral. Is it not more easy for a mother to nurse her own child, than having to take charge of the whole of her neighbours' children? therefore, if every housewife would cook her little family dinner at home, instead of entrusting it to the nursing care of a baker's oven, Bhe would, by so doing, though at the sacrifice of a little time, save both nutriment and money.
A FEW NEW AND USEFUL HINTS ON BAKING MEAT.
If we, Eloise, cannot entirely reform the evils caused by the above-described system, I feel myself in duty bound to give a few hints on the subject of ameliorating this wasteful method of cooking, which will tend both to economize and vary the flavour, as well as the substance, of any dish that might be doomed to undergo this ordeal. First of all, I would refer you to such receipts on semi-roasting joints, such as beef, veal, mutton, pork, and lamb, done in the baking-stewing-pan, and proceed in this instance precisely the same. In respect to vegetables, puddings, rice, &c. &c., being anxious that every person should partake of a portion of vegetation with their daily food, independent of potatoes, I have tried all the following receipts, which I beg to forward you, feeling confident they will prove agreeable to our readers' palate, as well as conducive to their health.
AN IMPROVED BAKING-DISH.
(For drawing of which see Appendix at end of book.)
I Beg to inform you that I have had made, at a very trifling expense, an improved baking-dish. Its principles are as follows: on the rim of the dish, I have attached a moveable false grating of wire, to the middle of which is fixed a trivet, three inches in height. I then put the pudding at the bottom of the dish, then put in the grating, on which I place the potatoes; then on the trivet I put the meat. By this means the surplus fat, which would otherwise fall in the pudding and prevent its setting, descends on the potatoes, making them delicate and crisp. This is applicable to any joint, and the meat being more elevated than usual when placed in the oven, causes it to partake more of the flavour of a roast joint than it does when put immediately over the pudding or potatoes, the vapours arising from which soddens the meat, instead of leaving it brown and well carbonized.
A SERIES OF RECEIPTS ON BAKED MEATS.
Ribs of Beef baked.—Take three long ribs of beef, bone, season, stuff, and roll as for semi-roasting, No. 207; put either Yorkshire pudding or any kind of vegetable in the bottom of the dish, then put on the grating, on which put your potatoes; then fix on the trivet at about three inches above the grating; when done, pour on a hot dish half a pint of boiling water, quarter of a teaspoonful of salt; pour this under your joint, turn it over; when hot, turn over twice, and carve; it will make a rich gravy. Serve the potatoes round, or separate; the pudding to be served on a hot dish.
By chopping the bone small, good broth and soup may be made. If the oven happens to be too hot, cover the joint with a piece or two of plain paper, well greased.
A piece of meat weighing about eight pounds, will take from one hour and twenty to thirty minutes, giving always as a rule from ten to twelve minutes to every pound of meat, for joints of from six to twelve pounds.
Any other piece of beef of an inferior part, requires to be baked slowly, allowing fifteen minutes to every pound, and if too lean, may be larded, as No. 459.
2. For a Leg of Pork.—Peel six apples, six onions, and twelve potatoes; put the apples and onions at the bottom of the dish, adding half a pint of coloured water, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, half one of pepper; lay the potatoes on the grating, the meat over; give fifteen minutes to every pound of meat. Half a pint of sage and onion sauce may be poured over the apples and onions previous to baking. Any joint of pork may be stuffed with sage and onions.
3. Fillet of Veal.—I have also tried the following:—Prepare a fillet, which stuff; oil a sheet or two of clean paper; cut in slices four ounces of bacon, two onions, one carrot, one turnip, a little celery, if handy, a little thyme and bay leaf; wrap up the veal and the above in the paper, and bake for two hours; when done, take out the veal and serve with vegetables round it. It will be delicious; pray let me know your opinion.
Any part of veal may be done the same. Fried bacon may be served with it.
Also half a pint of melted butter, one tablespoonful of ketchup, two of Harvey's sauce, well mixed; pour round and serve.
4. To bake Mutton.—Proceed as for beef, time according to size, putting under a Yorkshire pudding, or some rice boiled with curry in it, or boiled French haricot beans, which I have used for a change now and then. I also put a piece of pudding-paste, half way up the knuckle of a leg of mutton, which prevents it getting dry, that being so much thinner than the other part.
Loin and shoulder the same; if a piece happens to be lean and dry, butter it over, cover it with paste, and bake as usual. The shoulder, baked, like the leg of pork, is good with apples, potatoes, and onions.
5. Lamb, being very delicate, allow only ten minutes per pound for the ribs, the same for the shoulder, twelve minutes for the leg. Spinach, peas, asparagus, and sprouts, are best with lamb.
All kinds of poultry may be done the same, though roast them by all means if you can; but if wrapped up in paper, as for fillet of veal, No. 3. in this series, it will be excellent baked.
6. Vegetables with baked Meat.—My new plan of cooking vegetables with baked meat is as follows:—Scrape, wash, and cut in pieces two pounds of carrots, boil them in salt and water till three parts done, drain them in cullender, then put them at the bottom of your dish, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, add half a pint of coloured water, then place the potatoes on the grating, the meat on the trevet, and bake as above.*
Any such joints as sirloin, skirt, edgebone, or any other piece of beef, weighing from eight to ten pounds, should have a teaspoonful of salt sprinkled over, rubbing on also a little fat or butter; roast as above, dish, it up with the gravy, taking off the fat, if any, serving the carrots and potatoes with it or separate.
7. Another Way.—If an ordinary dish, put the potatoes over the carrots, also a few onions sliced, and the beef on trevet, as usual. When the meat has been too lean, put a piece of fat on the top, and cover the beef with a coating of pudding-paste, No. 319. When done remove the paste, and brown the meat with a shovel, like you would do venison; both meat and paste are excellent, the meat being full of gravy.
Roasting and Oven Baking.
My Dear Eloise,—My last letter you must have misunderstood. I did not mean that roasting before the fire should he entirely done away with, but that, on the score of economy, it should not be practised in the cottage, but that my new plan of semi-roasting should be followed. I was the more particularly led to these remarks, from having, last Sunday, immediately after church, visited several colliers' cottages belonging to a Mr. Pope, close to this place. My motive for doing so was to see the economy of the cottage, as well as the kind of food they had for dinner. The first I went into had a piece of the belly or flap of beef, just taken down from a dangle, having been roasted. It was lying in the dripping pan, and was a great deal over done; in fact, dried. Noticing, in the course of conversation, that the fire was spoiling it still more, I took a plate from the table, and placed it against it, so that it should not burn. The old lady noticed my proceeding, and asked me if I was going to have a bit of dinner with them?" No, thank you, my dear madam," replied I. "Then let me take away the plate, as it will spoil our dinner." "How do you make that out?" I asked. "Well, the fat is not yet half out of the meat, and my Thomas will not eat fat, unless it is dripping in the crust of pies or puddings." I then perceived that the meat was, in their estimation, a second consideration, and that they paid the price of beef for the fat, paying eightpence per pound for the meat, when they could get the fat at fivepence. There was scarcely any nutriment left in the meat—that which weighed five pounds before roasting, weighing hardly three pounds when done. There were seven to dine off it—the grandmother, the two parents, and four children. There was, besides, a few potatoes galloping on the fire—no other vegetable, and no puddings or sweets for the children, but excellent home-made bread, and not bad small beer. You may now perceive that some little improvement in this style of cookery would be an immense saving to these cottagers, and out of the three shillings and fourpence they paid for the beef, if done in the pan, with a pudding and potatoes under, and the meat not quite so fat, they would have got a good dinner and plenty for the next day, either hot or cold. If they wanted dripping, they could get fat at four or fivepence, instead of eightpence, and prepare it as No. 464c. It will keep for a long time, without turning sour.
I visited, immediately after, several other of the cottages, in which. I found steaks cooked dry, indeed, some half burnt, chumps of mutton half done, half legs of mutton neither boiled or baked; in one a sheep's head baked, and very nicely done, with potatoes round it, which was very inviting; there was also suet dumplings for the children, with treacle over. This cottage was cleaner than any of the others, and the children were neatly dressed, and about to change their costume, in order to do full justice to the treacle dumplings. In giving those rosy-cheeked urchins a few pence, I retired much gratified by my visit to these antediluvian workmen, who pass one-third of their life in the bowels of the earth.
You will perceive from what I have said, that to the artisan, labourer, and even the small tradesman, the old mode of roasting, which comes to us from Homeric ages and primitive times, is an extravagant and wasteful mode of cooking, and the sooner it is reformed the better. Though it is preferable to meat done in a baker's oven, if well attended to.
But first let me add one more remark on the experience of that day. Returning to the Normanton Hotel to dinner, we had a beautiful dish of greens; and what do you think those greens were? Green young nettles, which I had asked the gardener to gather for me the day previous, and in less than half an hour we had a basket full. I picked them with gloves, but he made a grasp at a large quantity, and I found that they did not prick him. He got them as fast as a monkey could get chestnuts out of hot cinders. The cook dressed them, according to my directions, exactly like spinach, and most who ate of them thought they were spinach, only rather too hot of pepper, which is their peculiar nature.
I found that they are known in this part of the country as being good and wholesome in the spring; but because the people can have them for nothing, they will not partake of them; like the watercresses, that rot in every clear stream in the neighbourhood. I intend to make another trial or so on the nettles, which I will forward to you.
Having, thus far, given you some of my experience as regards roasting, I will, in as few words as possible, describe the simple plan of roasting before the fire, which, I must again repeat, is far from being economical. The artisan requires as much nourishment as possible, and should not pay extravagantly for fancy joints, or those called the best, because most in vogue for roasting. Let the wealthy pay for their taste, as they do for their Raphaels, Rubens, and Murillos; it is no reason, because they do so, that a labouring man should imitate them, and because one has a leg of mutton, the other should likewise have one. This very day I have seen, in Nottingham market, all the best joints sold by the butchers, and nothing but the necks of mutton and the coarse pieces of beef left, which, they tell me, hang for days and days, lessening both quality and quantity, and then are sold at twopence or threepence per pound. This causes the joints most in vogue to be dear, whilst there is quite as much nourishment in proportion in those sold at half the price when cooked fresh.
I must here, however, describe the proper system of roasting either before the fire or by gas (see note). And as an invariable rule, all dark meats, such as beef and mutton, should be put down to a sharp fire for at least fifteen minutes, until the outside has a coating of osmazome or gravy, then remove it back, and let it do gently. Lamb, veal, and pork, if young and tender, should be done at a moderate fire. Veal even should be covered with paper.
Very rich meat, if covered with paper, does not require basting Fowls, &c., should be placed close to the fire, to set the skin, and in about ten minutes rubbed over with a small piece of butter, pressed in a spoon. Roast meats should be dredged with flour, just at the time when the gravy begins to appear; the flour absorbs it, and forms a coating which prevents any more coming out. Hares and small game the same.
In the first place, the fire must be made up, and cleared from ashes. Place before it the dripping-pan, and from above the fire, suspend from a hook a piece of worsted thread, sufficiently strong to bear the joint, aud a hook suspended at the end. Have a piece of stick forked at one end, which place against the mantle-piece, so that it keeps the thread at a sufficient distance from the fire. By having two pieces of stick, the distances can be easily managed. Twist the worsted; put on the joint; give it a sufficient distance from the fire. This is quite equal to either a smoke or bottle-jack for cottage use.
Every cottage should have a moveable piece of iron or steel screwed on the mantel-piece, with teeth fixed in it, so as to be able to hang the joint at any distance from the fire. See Appendix, at end of book.
Note.
ON THE COMFORT AND ECONOMY OF ROASTING BY GAS, WHERE IT CAN BE PROCURED.
Experiment made at the Moyal Naval School, Greenwich Hospital, by M. Soyer.
Two interesting trials have taken place at the above establishment with an apparatus manufactured by Messrs. Smith and Phillips, patentees, of Skinner-street, Snow-hill, under the superintendence of M. Soyer, which in their results finally determine the question on the merits and economy of roasting by gas.
The result of the first trial, which took place on the 8th inst., was, that 36 legs of mutton, weighing 288 lbs., were roasted at a cost of 1s. 2d.
In order to arrive at more positive results in regard to its economy a second trial was deemed requisite, which took place on the 11th inst., when equal weights of mutton were cooked. Twenty-three joints, weighing 184 lbs., were roasted by gas, at a cost of 10 1/2d., with gas supplied at 4s. per 1000 feet. When cooked, the above weight of meat was found to weigh 145 lbs., dripping 19 lbs., and gravy, or osmazome, 2 1/2 lbs., thus showing the actual loss to be 18 3/4 lbs. Twenty-three joints of mutton were cooked in the usual way, as adopted at the institution, namely, in one of Count Romford's ovens, hitherto considered the most economical way of roasting. When put in they weighed 184 lbs., when done 132 lbs., dripping 18 lbs., gravy none, thus showing a loss of 34 lbs. The coke consumed in this oven was 102 lbs., coal 30 lbs., thus proving the great economy of gas over the oven by a saving of 13 lbs. of meat, 1 lb. of dripping, 2 3/4 lbs. of gravy. The value of the saving is as follows:— Meat at 6d. per lb., 6s. 6d.; dripping at 5d. per lb., 5d., and gravy at 1s. 6d. per lb., 4s. 1 1/2d., making a total of 11s. 0 1/2 d.
The experiments took place before the governor, Sir C. Adam, and lady, Sir J. Liddle, M.D., Lieut. Rouse, general superintendent, Lieut. Monk, Messrs. Lee and Seville, inspector of works, who expressed their admiration at the cleanliness and simplicity of the apparatus.
In order to show the advantage of the system in all its branches, a rump steak was broiled by M. Soyer, before the company present, who partook of it, and who declared it was perfection, and free from all odour.—Mechanics' Magazine.
228. Ten pounds of beef will take from two hours to two hours and a half roasting, eighteen inches from a good fire. Six pounds one hour and a quarter to one hour and a half, fourteen inches from the fire.
Three ribs of beef, boned and rolled (see No. 207), well tied round with paper, will take two hours and a half, eighteen inches from the fire, and only baste once.
If beef is very fat, it does not require basting; if very lean, tie it up in greasy paper, and baste well.
229. Eight pounds of veal will take from one hour and a half to two hours, eighteen inches from the fire: if stuffed, at least two hours.
Chump, or loin and kidneys, of four pounds, will take one hour and a quarter; baste well.
Six pounds of breast one hour, twelves inches from the fire.
Six pounds of the shoulder or neck the same.
Calf s heart, stuffed and tied up in paper, three quarters of an hour.
230. Mutton (leg of eight pounds), will take one hour and a half, eighteen inches from the fire.
Saddle, ten pounds, one hour and a quarter to one hour and a half, eighteen inches, measuring from the flat surface.
Shoulder, one hour and a half.
Loin, one hour and a half.
Breast, three quarters of an hour.
Neck, one hour.
231. Lamb, according to size, hut in the same proportion less than mutton, hut ought always to he well done, and placed nearer the fire; if a good fire about fifteen inches from it.
Pork should be well done.
Leg of six pounds, with skin over, two hours, eighteen inches from the fire.
Loin of the same, one hour.
Neck, the same weight, one hour and three-quarters.
Pork rubbed with salt the night previous, and then scraped before roasting, improves the flavour.
In roasting of beef, mutton, lamb, pork, and poultry, place a dripping-pan under the meat, with a little clear dripping or fat, which should be very hot when the meat is basted. A quarter of an hour before serving add half a pint of water to the fat in the dripping-pan; dredge the meat with flour and salt. When the meat is dished up, pour the contents of the pan into a basin, straining it through a gauze sieve kept on purpose; remove all the fat, add a little colouring and salt to the gravy, and pour it into the dish under the meat.
Veal and poultry should have half the quantity of water put in the pan, and that, when strained, added to half a pint of thick melted butter, adding two teaspoonfuls of any sauce for flavour, as Harvey's, Soyer's, or ketchup, &c.
Sage and onions to be served with pork.
Mint sauce with lamb.
Currant-jelly with mutton.
232. Roasting of Poultry.—I proceed thus: Hang it up with worsted, about ten inches from the fire, let it hang for ten minutes to set the skin, then press into a wooden spoon a piece of butter or hard dripping; when the skin is very hot rub it over with the fat in the spoon until all is melted, then draw it back to about twelve inches: a good sized fowl will take three quarters of an hour, chicken twenty minutes, middle-sized goose one hour, turkey, fourteen pounds, two hours and a half hare, large, one hour and a half, if very young three quarters of an hour. Never baste them, but dredge all, after having well rubbed them over with butter, as for fowls.
Small game should be placed nearer the fire.
I always stuff both poultry and game with stuffing No. 464, and make the gravy as for the joints.
Apple sauce with goose.
Currant jelly for hare.
Fried bread-crumbs with grouse.
Bread sauce with partridge and pheasant.
Though this system of cooking meat is far from receiving my approbation, especially on the score of economy, still, it would be very ridiculous on our part, Eloise, to think that we should be able entirely to reform this semi-barbarian method of spoiling food. No; it must be a work of time that will prevent small folk from running to the baker's on Sunday with either their legs or shoulders under their arms. The reason why they have recourse to such a process is at once simple and easily explained: first of all, it gives them no trouble, and hardly any of them study economy, so long as the dinner will cook itself, though in company with a score or two or other joints, perhaps no two being of the same size or quality.
How can a baker, even one of the most conscientious of that useful class of individuals, be answerable for the proper cooking of this awkward squad, if such we may term it. How also can he prevent the potatoes galavanting from one dish to another, or even joints changing dishes, and by mistake, going to the wrong home—impossible! Is he to be answerable if an eel crawls out of Mrs. Armstrong's pie (having been put in whole), and, after cooking, being found reposing under one of Mrs. Smith's ribs? or can he prevent Mrs. Jenkins's cod's head staring a neighbouring pig's face out of countenance? No more would he be able to obviate the above evils, than he could disentangle the fragrance which emanates from each homely volcano, forming, as it does, an aerial coating of osmazome under the same roof.
Moral. Is it not more easy for a mother to nurse her own child, than having to take charge of the whole of her neighbours' children? therefore, if every housewife would cook her little family dinner at home, instead of entrusting it to the nursing care of a baker's oven, Bhe would, by so doing, though at the sacrifice of a little time, save both nutriment and money.
If we, Eloise, cannot entirely reform the evils caused by the above-described system, I feel myself in duty bound to give a few hints on the subject of ameliorating this wasteful method of cooking, which will tend both to economize and vary the flavour, as well as the substance, of any dish that might be doomed to undergo this ordeal. First of all, I would refer you to such receipts on semi-roasting joints, such as beef, veal, mutton, pork, and lamb, done in the baking-stewing-pan, and proceed in this instance precisely the same. In respect to vegetables, puddings, rice, &c. &c., being anxious that every person should partake of a portion of vegetation with their daily food, independent of potatoes, I have tried all the following receipts, which I beg to forward you, feeling confident they will prove agreeable to our readers' palate, as well as conducive to their health.
(For drawing of which see Appendix at end of book.)
I Beg to inform you that I have had made, at a very trifling expense, an improved baking-dish. Its principles are as follows: on the rim of the dish, I have attached a moveable false grating of wire, to the middle of which is fixed a trivet, three inches in height. I then put the pudding at the bottom of the dish, then put in the grating, on which I place the potatoes; then on the trivet I put the meat. By this means the surplus fat, which would otherwise fall in the pudding and prevent its setting, descends on the potatoes, making them delicate and crisp. This is applicable to any joint, and the meat being more elevated than usual when placed in the oven, causes it to partake more of the flavour of a roast joint than it does when put immediately over the pudding or potatoes, the vapours arising from which soddens the meat, instead of leaving it brown and well carbonized.
Ribs of Beef baked.—Take three long ribs of beef, bone, season, stuff, and roll as for semi-roasting, No. 207; put either Yorkshire pudding or any kind of vegetable in the bottom of the dish, then put on the grating, on which put your potatoes; then fix on the trivet at about three inches above the grating; when done, pour on a hot dish half a pint of boiling water, quarter of a teaspoonful of salt; pour this under your joint, turn it over; when hot, turn over twice, and carve; it will make a rich gravy. Serve the potatoes round, or separate; the pudding to be served on a hot dish.
By chopping the bone small, good broth and soup may be made. If the oven happens to be too hot, cover the joint with a piece or two of plain paper, well greased.
A piece of meat weighing about eight pounds, will take from one hour and twenty to thirty minutes, giving always as a rule from ten to twelve minutes to every pound of meat, for joints of from six to twelve pounds.
Any other piece of beef of an inferior part, requires to be baked slowly, allowing fifteen minutes to every pound, and if too lean, may be larded, as No. 459.
2. For a Leg of Pork.—Peel six apples, six onions, and twelve potatoes; put the apples and onions at the bottom of the dish, adding half a pint of coloured water, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, half one of pepper; lay the potatoes on the grating, the meat over; give fifteen minutes to every pound of meat. Half a pint of sage and onion sauce may be poured over the apples and onions previous to baking. Any joint of pork may be stuffed with sage and onions.
3. Fillet of Veal.—I have also tried the following:—Prepare a fillet, which stuff; oil a sheet or two of clean paper; cut in slices four ounces of bacon, two onions, one carrot, one turnip, a little celery, if handy, a little thyme and bay leaf; wrap up the veal and the above in the paper, and bake for two hours; when done, take out the veal and serve with vegetables round it. It will be delicious; pray let me know your opinion.
Any part of veal may be done the same. Fried bacon may be served with it.
Also half a pint of melted butter, one tablespoonful of ketchup, two of Harvey's sauce, well mixed; pour round and serve.
4. To bake Mutton.—Proceed as for beef, time according to size, putting under a Yorkshire pudding, or some rice boiled with curry in it, or boiled French haricot beans, which I have used for a change now and then. I also put a piece of pudding-paste, half way up the knuckle of a leg of mutton, which prevents it getting dry, that being so much thinner than the other part.
Loin and shoulder the same; if a piece happens to be lean and dry, butter it over, cover it with paste, and bake as usual. The shoulder, baked, like the leg of pork, is good with apples, potatoes, and onions.
5. Lamb, being very delicate, allow only ten minutes per pound for the ribs, the same for the shoulder, twelve minutes for the leg. Spinach, peas, asparagus, and sprouts, are best with lamb.
All kinds of poultry may be done the same, though roast them by all means if you can; but if wrapped up in paper, as for fillet of veal, No. 3. in this series, it will be excellent baked.
6. Vegetables with baked Meat.—My new plan of cooking vegetables with baked meat is as follows:—Scrape, wash, and cut in pieces two pounds of carrots, boil them in salt and water till three parts done, drain them in cullender, then put them at the bottom of your dish, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, add half a pint of coloured water, then place the potatoes on the grating, the meat on the trevet, and bake as above.*
Any such joints as sirloin, skirt, edgebone, or any other piece of beef, weighing from eight to ten pounds, should have a teaspoonful of salt sprinkled over, rubbing on also a little fat or butter; roast as above, dish, it up with the gravy, taking off the fat, if any, serving the carrots and potatoes with it or separate.
7. Another Way.—If an ordinary dish, put the potatoes over the carrots, also a few onions sliced, and the beef on trevet, as usual. When the meat has been too lean, put a piece of fat on the top, and cover the beef with a coating of pudding-paste, No. 319. When done remove the paste, and brown the meat with a shovel, like you would do venison; both meat and paste are excellent, the meat being full of gravy.
Notes:
[*] In the way of vegetables for beef, I have tried turnips, Jerusalem artichokes, parsnips, &c. Also for veal, lamb, and mutton, spinach, greens, Cauliflowers, Brussels sprouts, all parboiled and well drained. A pint of second class batter, added to either the parsnips, artichokes, turnips, carrots, peas, asparagus, &c., using only one pound instead of two, but quite boiled, and omitting the gravy, either of these will turn out like a pudding.