Alexis Soyer's Part 15: Miscellanea, Pickles and Drinks
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Culinary Miscellanea.
449. How to chop Onions.—Pew persons know how to chop onions properly. In the first place, all the dry skin must be removed, then a thin slice off the top and bottom, or they will be bitter, then cut them into thin slices, dividing the onion, and cut crossways to form dice. If a very slight flavour is required, and the onion is strong, like in the north of England, for i1 must be remembered that the further north you go, the stronger the flavour of the root, and if French receipt books are exactly copied, it is no wonder that complaints are made of the preponderance of the flavour of the onion; in which case, when chopped, put them in the corner of a napkin or cloth, wash them in water, squeeze them dry, then put them back on the board, and chop finer; or sometimes only rubbing the pan or the meat with the onion is quite sufficient.
450. Larding.—The word larding has very often occurred it our receipts; it may be thought to belong to a style of cookery too good for the cottage. On the contrary, it is an economical process, and will make lean meat go much farther than without it.
Get what is called a larding needle, that is, a piece of steel from six to nine inches long, pointed at one end, and having four slits at the other, which will hold a small strip of bacon when put between them. They will perhaps cost tenpence. Cut the pieces of bacon two or three inches long and a quarter to half an inch square, put each one after the other in the pin, insert it in the meat, and leave only half an inch out; eight pieces to each pound.
451. Bunch of Sweet Herbs.—In many of the receipts is mentioned a bunch of sweet herbs, which consists, for some stews and soups, of a small bunch of parsley, two sprigs of thyme, and one bayleaf; if no parsley, four sprigs of winter savory, six of thyme, and one bayleaf.
452. Bread Crumbs.—Take a piece of the crumb of stale bread not too hard, bruise it with your hand, than pass it through a coarse sieve or cullender, or in cloth; use where required.
453. Browning for Sauces.—Put half a pound of brown sugar into an iron saucepan, and melt it over a moderate fine for about twenty-five minutes, stirring it continually, until quite black, but it must become so by degrees, or too sudden a heat will make it bitter, then add two quarts of water, and in ten minutes the sugar will be dissolved. Bottle for use.
453A. Coloured Water.—Put in a basin a pint of water and two teaspoonfuls of the above sugar browning; mix well; use where indicated, either for stews, gravies, or sauces.
454 Pease Pudding.—Put a pint of split peas into a cloth, leave room for their swelling, boil in a gallon of soft water; if good, they will take an hour, but leave them till tender; pass them through a sieve or cullender, then add a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, two ounces of butter, and two eggs, which, if scarce, can be omitted; heat up, tie again in cloth, boil for one hour, and serve with boiled pork. Or when plain boiled, and the peas are done, open the cloth, season, mix well, butter a basin, shape in, and serve.
455. How to Boil Rice.—Put one quart of water in a pot, boil it, wash half a pound of rice, and throw it into the boiling water; boil for ten minutes, or until each grain is rather soft, but separate; drain it in a colander, put it back in a pot which you have slightly greased with butter, let it swell slowly near the fire, or in the oven, until wanted. A little butter may be added; each grain will then swell up, and be well separated.
456. Veal Stuffing.—Chop half a pound of suet, put it in a basin with three quarters of a pound of bread crumbs, a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, a little thyme, or lemon peel chopped, three whole eggs, mix well, and use where directed. A pound of bread crumbs and one more egg may be used: it will make it cut simmer.
457. Liver Stuffing.—To the above quantity of stuffing, chop fine four ounces of the liver of either calf, pig, sheep, or lamb, poultry, or game; mix well and use, adding a little more seasoning.
These stuffings are varied by the mixture of a little cooked ham, anchovies, olives, capers, pickles, or even red herring. In fact, a variety of ways, according to fancy, for any dish you please.
453. Biscuit Balls.—Put in a basin half a pound of suet, three teaspoonfuls of onions chopped fine, one of parsley, half of salt, quarter of pepper, ten tablespoonfuls of biscuit powder, two passover biscuits soaked in milk or water a few hours before using; two eggs to be added. These are excellent in any thick soups or ragouts, and stews of all sorts: make them in balls the size of a walnut, stew with meat, or boil gently twenty minutes, and use where liked.
459. Cod Liver Stuffing.—Half a pound of raw chopped liver, three quarters of a pound of bread crumb or biscuit powder, salt, pepper, and parsley; mix with two whole eggs. Use as stuffing for any kind of fish.
460. Cod Liver Balls.—One pound of liver chopped fine, put into a basin with a pound of fine bread crumbs, two teaspoonfuls of chopped onions, two of parsley, two of salt, hah one of pepper, a pinch of ground ginger, three eggs; mix all well, make into balls, roll them in flour, use them with any kind of stewed fish; they will take about thirty minutes to cook slowly.
461. Toad-in-the-Hole Batter.—Tut into a pan six tablespoonfuls of flour, four eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper; mix well with a pint of milk; mix very smooth, and use where directed. More milk may be used if liked.
A little nutmeg may be used in it. This is as good as pancake batter.
462. A Common Batter.—Put in a basin six good tablespoonfuls of flour, which dilute very slowly with one pint of milk, add one spoonful of salt, quarter that of pepper, beat an egg well in it, if used for a toad-in-the-hole. A little parsley, chopped onions, or a little spice, makes an agreeable change; it will also make nice puddings, if baked alone, or under a joint in a well-greased tin.
A Commoner Sort.—For toad-in-the-hole use water, if you have no milk or eggs handy; a little suet, or fat chopped fine, is an improvement.
463. How to Boil and Dress Macaroni.—Put in an iron pot or stew-pan two quarts of water; let it boil; add two teaspoonfuls of salt, one ounce of butter; then add one pound of macaroni, boil till tender; let it be rather firm to the touch; it is then ready for use, either for soup, pudding, or to be dressed with cheese. Drain it in a cullender; put it back in the pan, add four ounces of cheese or more, a little butter, salt, and pepper; toss it well together and serve. It will be found light and nutritious, and well worthy the notice of vegetarians.
464. How to Toast Bread.—Procure a nice square loaf that has been baked one or two days previously, then with a sharp knife cut off the bottom crust evenly, and then as many slices as you require, about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Contrive to have a clear fire: place a slice of the bread upon a toasting-fork, about an inch from one of the sides, hold it a minute before the fire, then turn it, hold it another minute, by which time the bread will be thoroughly hot, then begin to move it gradually to and fro until the whole surface has assumed a yellowish-brown colour, then turn it again, toasting the other side in the same manner; lay it then upon a hot plate, have some fresh or salt butter, (which must not be too hard, as pressing it upon the toast would make it heavy,) spread a piece, rather less than an ounce, over, and cut the toast into four or six pieces; should you require six such slices for a numerous family, about a quarter of a pound of butter would suffice for the whole. You will then have toast made to perfection.
464a. Jam of all kinds.—Almost all small farmers and cottagers have generally some kind of fruit to spare at the end of the season, any of which can be made into jam. Thus, for strawberry jam, pick one pound of strawberries, put them in a pan with three quarters of a pound of white powdered sugar; put the whole on the fire, stir with a wooden spoon, and boil till rather thick; or try a little on a plate, if it sets. When cold, fill your preserve jars, cover over with strong white paper, and let them remain in a rather cold place.
Raspberries and green gooseberries will require a little more boiling, and more sugar. Cranberries, mulberries, cherries, and currants, can all be done the same way.
464b. Currant Jelly.—Put in a pan half a sieve of fresh gathered currants, with the stalks; add to it a gill of water, put on the fire, and boil till every currant has opened; then pass the juice through a sieve or cullender, and to every quart put one pound of white sugar; boil fast and skim, and when the preserve begins to stick to the spoon, and is quite clear, fill your preserve pots, and cover over when cold; but, to be sure, try some on a plate before potting. If it sets well it is done; a few raspberries added is an improvement.
PICKLES.
465. Red Cabbage.—I perceive in most cottages the garden possesses a few of these exceedingly useful productions; at some seasons they grow larger than others, when they should be pickled thus:—Cut them into thin slices, remove the hard stalk, lay them on a slab, cover with salt for twelve hours, turning them now and then, clean off all the salt, and place them in stone jars; boil some vinegar, and to every quart add one ounce of black pepper, and seven button onions, or two large ones sliced, boil for five minutes, and pour over cabbage; cover the jar, and let it remain three weeks before using.
Onions may be omitted, and only cold vinegar used, but I do not approve of it, being hard and indigestible. A bunch of sweet herbs boiled in the vinegar is an improvement.
I send you no other receipts, as mixed pickles can now be bought cheaper than they can be made at home.
A FEW ORIGINAL HINTS ON COFFEE, TEA, &c.
466. Simplified Mode of Making Coffee.—Put one ounce of ground coffee in a pan, which place over the fire; keep stirring it until quite hot, but take care it does not bum; then pour over quickly a quart of boiling water, close it immediately, keep it not far from the fire, but not to simmer; then fill your cup without shaking it; or pass it through a cloth into a coffee pot, or it may be made some time previous, and warmed again. The grounds can be kept, and boiled for making the coffee of the next day, by which at least a quarter of an ounce is saved. In country places, where milk is good and cheap, I recommend that half boiled milk should be used with the coffee. The idea of warming coffee is my own, and the economy is full ten per cent.
The following is the result of some of my experiments with this system. But I must first tell you that my exertions in the fashionable quarter of St. Giles's gave great satisfaction to my septuagenarian pupil, whom I taught to cook the ox cheek, and she and several of her neighbours clubbed together to give a fashionable "tea," which of course my vanity made me immediately accept. Having but little confidence in what they would provide, I bought a quarter of a pound of ground coffee, intending giving them a lesson how to make coffee. On my arrival, I was received like a princess in a fairy land; the little parlour was not only clean, but ornamented, at the cost of a few pence, with wall flowers from the neighbouring garden (the best in the world, Covent Garden), generously dispensing their perfume over pyramids of muffins and crumpets. Having cordially shaken hands with my host, I set cheerfully to work, and got hold of an old pitcher, but clean; in it I put the coffee, and placed it close before the fire, begging the old lady to keep turning it round, and stirring it till the powder was hot. I then poured three quarts of boiling water, allowed it to stand for ten minutes, and then poured it out into the cups, with the best milk that could be got, and sugar. The coffee being partaken of, I put into each cup a good teaspoonful of canister cocoa, with half a teaspoonful of sugar, holding the kettle in one hand and a spoon in the other. I poured on the water, and kept stirring all the time, adding a little milk. In the meantime I had put one ounce of tea into a large teapot, which I had placed by the side of the fire, in order that the leaves should get hot, so that when the water was poured on them, that they should immediately give forth their aroma. By the time the cocoa had been partaken of, the tea was ready, and it was declared by all the old dames present that they never had had such a cup of tea, although they bought it at the same shop, and paid the same price; and they could not account for such "legerdemain," but would endeavour to imitate it. I was greatly thanked on my departure, and received the compliment of an old shoe being thrown after me; not a French dancing shoe, but a genuine British bit of solid work, the sole having a very uneven appearance, being studded with several dozen of iron nails.
Thus terminated the entertainment given to me by these poor but grateful people of the black back street of St. Giles's.
I made the cocoa thus, not having sufficient utensils; but I have found it an economical plan to make the ground cocoa hot, adding a little water, and mixing it smooth with either cold milk or water, it gives it a richness which is not got by the usual system. Place it on the fire, keep stirring, and when just on the point of boiling, serve. Chocolate can be made the same way, only stirring it more, with a spoon, ii you have no chocolate pot.
In the way of coffee, in my opinion, nothing can he more pure than what I bought the other day from the canister, when walking by chance in the Borough, at the shop of Messrs. White and Fairchild; and I must, while on this subject, be allowed to state that, in my opinion, a good cup of coffee cannot be made without the introduction of a little chicory, although I am aware that some dealers imposed on the public by selling an article composed of chicory at a coffee price. I cannot but admire Messrs. White's plan, which is on no account to sell any ground coffee mixed with chicory, but to sell it to their customers the one separate from the other. They then recommended to me some canister coffee, patented and prepared only by them. On opening the canister the aroma was very refreshing. On asking how it was roasted (rather a bold question on my part, I admit), he very civilly asked mo to follow him to the back of the premises, where some very extensive rooms are fitted up for the purpose of roasting; he then put some coffee-berries into a cylinder six feet in length and twenty inches in circumference; then put them in a furnace which roasted the berries in a most scientific manner, being turned during the while by the aid of steam power. When sufficiently roasted, the coffee was, while hot, put in a steam mill and ground, being forced from the mill into the canisters and sealed up as soon as possible, and put into stock. I beg to forward you one of the four quarter of a pound packets I bought. On testing it I found that an ounce made one quart of excellent coffee.
BEVERAGES.
As far as the food of man goes, I believe, dearest, that onr duty is almost at an end; but here is one important item which supports the vitality of man as much as food does, I mean beverages; in fact, one is inseparable from the other: to drink without eating, or to eat without drinking, would soon send us to an early grave. True, if too much is taken of one or the other, it upsets the digestive organs, and materially affects the functions of that most important part of the human frame, the stomach, which, acting in accordance with the wonderful works of nature, refuses any food or drink that does not accord with its functions. True, bad food and beverages of all kinds are sometimes forced on it; but then,' if it does not disturb its functions immediately, it acts on it gradually, and in course of time entirely destroys its coating or toilette. Is it not, then, important, that great care should be taken in what we eat or drink? The best of food is often spoilt by drinking bad beverages. Amongst the higher orders of society, the pride of an "epicure" is to select the best of wines, which he considers one of his greatest treasures, scientifically classing them to the various courses of his dinner.
You probably will again remark, that I am deviating from the purport of our present little work, by alluding to the higher class of living in its pages, while in reality it is intended for the million, and not for the wealthy few. My excuse is, that if a rich gourmet take so much care in selecting his beverages, why should not a poor housewife be as particular in choosing her more humble drinks? Is it not more desirable for the artizan, who cannot afford to drink much beer, to have with his meal a sound clear glass of pure water, full of health and life, than to have a muddy one? For I nave actually seen people drink the drainings as they drip from the roof of a house—the simple idea of letting it rest for a minute never entering their heads; or better still, to clarify it by passing it through a clean cloth, or giving it a boil, and letting it get cold before drinking, for any doubtful water will improve and get soft by boiling.
For those in middling circumstances, who can afford their malt liquor at their meals, pale ale, or light table-beer, or ale, is preferable to any heavy stout, as they facilitate digestion.
Since my return from France, there is nothing I miss so much as that light and cooling drink called by our allies "Vin ordinaire," though I was in hopes that after the great exertions made by several members of parliament, a reduction of the duty on these simple but generous wines would take place, though probably they would not be partaken of to any great extent by the masses, who would not understand their properties, although there is not one Englishman out of twenty who visits France, but who in time takes a liking to these really harmless wines.
I do not want to deprive you of your sherry or port before or after dinner; however, recollect that nothing assists digestion and refreshes the palate more than a good glass of light wine; and therefore it would be a great boon to the public if they could be imported free of duty.
To our friend Dr. King I am much indebted, after having had a conversation on the above subject, for his sending, to me the other day a case of pure French wine, having, as he stated in his letter, been present while it was drawn from the rough French cask. I was more astonished when he informed me that its price was only twenty-eight shillings per dozen, and was purchased from the famous house of Campbell, of Regent Street, London. It appears that this gentleman pays an annual visit to the different vintages and villages which encompass the banks of the Garonne, and purchases largely from the peasantry, remaining there all the brewing season, and personally superintending its make. The principal wines are called "La Rose," " St. Julien," "Vin do Grave," "Sauterne," "Barsac," and numerous other kinds, all of which are highly recommended by the faculty. Light Amontillado, Rhenish wine, and Bucellas, are also commendable at meal-times.
For those who cannot afford to buy malt liquors or wines, I have teen led to try the following receipts, which will be found extremely useful for people in small circumstances.
A SERIES OF NEW AND CHEAP DRINKS.
467. Put a gallon of water on to boil, cut up one pound of apples, each one into quarters, put them in the water, and boil them until they can be pulped, pass the liquor through a cullender, boil it up again with half a pound of brown sugar, scum, and bottle for use, taking care not to cork the bottle, and keep it in a cool place: the apples may be eaten with sugar.
Another way.—Bake the apples first, then put them in a gallon pan, add the sugar, and pour boiling water over, let it get cold, pass the liquor as above, and bottle.
468. Apple Toast and Water.—A piece of bread, slowly toasted till it gets quite black, and added to the above, makes a very nice and refreshing drink for invalids.
469. Apple Barley Water.—A quarter of a pound of pearl barley instead of toast added to the above, and boil for one hour, is also a very nice drink.
470. Apple Rice Water.—Half a pound of rice, boiled in the above until in pulp, passed through a cullender, and drunk when cold.
All kinds of fruits may be done the same way.
Figs and French plums are excellent; also raisins.
A little ginger, if approved of, may be used.
471. For Spring Drink.—Rhubarb, in the same quantities, and done in the same way as apples, adding more sugar, is very cooling.
Also green gooseberries.
471a. Lemonade.—Cut in very thin slices three lemons, put them in a basin, add half a pound of sugar, either white or brown; bruise altogether, add a gallon of water, and stir well. It is then ready.
472. For Summer Drink.—One pound of red currants, bruised with some raspberry, half a pound of sugar added to a gallon of cold water, well stirred, allowed to settle, and bottled.
473. Mulberry.—The same, adding a little lemon-peel.
A little cream of tartar or citric acid added to these renders them more cooling in summer and spring.
Miscellanea, Pickles and Drinks.
449. How to chop Onions.—Pew persons know how to chop onions properly. In the first place, all the dry skin must be removed, then a thin slice off the top and bottom, or they will be bitter, then cut them into thin slices, dividing the onion, and cut crossways to form dice. If a very slight flavour is required, and the onion is strong, like in the north of England, for i1 must be remembered that the further north you go, the stronger the flavour of the root, and if French receipt books are exactly copied, it is no wonder that complaints are made of the preponderance of the flavour of the onion; in which case, when chopped, put them in the corner of a napkin or cloth, wash them in water, squeeze them dry, then put them back on the board, and chop finer; or sometimes only rubbing the pan or the meat with the onion is quite sufficient.
450. Larding.—The word larding has very often occurred it our receipts; it may be thought to belong to a style of cookery too good for the cottage. On the contrary, it is an economical process, and will make lean meat go much farther than without it.
Get what is called a larding needle, that is, a piece of steel from six to nine inches long, pointed at one end, and having four slits at the other, which will hold a small strip of bacon when put between them. They will perhaps cost tenpence. Cut the pieces of bacon two or three inches long and a quarter to half an inch square, put each one after the other in the pin, insert it in the meat, and leave only half an inch out; eight pieces to each pound.
451. Bunch of Sweet Herbs.—In many of the receipts is mentioned a bunch of sweet herbs, which consists, for some stews and soups, of a small bunch of parsley, two sprigs of thyme, and one bayleaf; if no parsley, four sprigs of winter savory, six of thyme, and one bayleaf.
452. Bread Crumbs.—Take a piece of the crumb of stale bread not too hard, bruise it with your hand, than pass it through a coarse sieve or cullender, or in cloth; use where required.
453. Browning for Sauces.—Put half a pound of brown sugar into an iron saucepan, and melt it over a moderate fine for about twenty-five minutes, stirring it continually, until quite black, but it must become so by degrees, or too sudden a heat will make it bitter, then add two quarts of water, and in ten minutes the sugar will be dissolved. Bottle for use.
453A. Coloured Water.—Put in a basin a pint of water and two teaspoonfuls of the above sugar browning; mix well; use where indicated, either for stews, gravies, or sauces.
454 Pease Pudding.—Put a pint of split peas into a cloth, leave room for their swelling, boil in a gallon of soft water; if good, they will take an hour, but leave them till tender; pass them through a sieve or cullender, then add a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, two ounces of butter, and two eggs, which, if scarce, can be omitted; heat up, tie again in cloth, boil for one hour, and serve with boiled pork. Or when plain boiled, and the peas are done, open the cloth, season, mix well, butter a basin, shape in, and serve.
455. How to Boil Rice.—Put one quart of water in a pot, boil it, wash half a pound of rice, and throw it into the boiling water; boil for ten minutes, or until each grain is rather soft, but separate; drain it in a colander, put it back in a pot which you have slightly greased with butter, let it swell slowly near the fire, or in the oven, until wanted. A little butter may be added; each grain will then swell up, and be well separated.
456. Veal Stuffing.—Chop half a pound of suet, put it in a basin with three quarters of a pound of bread crumbs, a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, a little thyme, or lemon peel chopped, three whole eggs, mix well, and use where directed. A pound of bread crumbs and one more egg may be used: it will make it cut simmer.
457. Liver Stuffing.—To the above quantity of stuffing, chop fine four ounces of the liver of either calf, pig, sheep, or lamb, poultry, or game; mix well and use, adding a little more seasoning.
These stuffings are varied by the mixture of a little cooked ham, anchovies, olives, capers, pickles, or even red herring. In fact, a variety of ways, according to fancy, for any dish you please.
453. Biscuit Balls.—Put in a basin half a pound of suet, three teaspoonfuls of onions chopped fine, one of parsley, half of salt, quarter of pepper, ten tablespoonfuls of biscuit powder, two passover biscuits soaked in milk or water a few hours before using; two eggs to be added. These are excellent in any thick soups or ragouts, and stews of all sorts: make them in balls the size of a walnut, stew with meat, or boil gently twenty minutes, and use where liked.
459. Cod Liver Stuffing.—Half a pound of raw chopped liver, three quarters of a pound of bread crumb or biscuit powder, salt, pepper, and parsley; mix with two whole eggs. Use as stuffing for any kind of fish.
460. Cod Liver Balls.—One pound of liver chopped fine, put into a basin with a pound of fine bread crumbs, two teaspoonfuls of chopped onions, two of parsley, two of salt, hah one of pepper, a pinch of ground ginger, three eggs; mix all well, make into balls, roll them in flour, use them with any kind of stewed fish; they will take about thirty minutes to cook slowly.
461. Toad-in-the-Hole Batter.—Tut into a pan six tablespoonfuls of flour, four eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper; mix well with a pint of milk; mix very smooth, and use where directed. More milk may be used if liked.
A little nutmeg may be used in it. This is as good as pancake batter.
462. A Common Batter.—Put in a basin six good tablespoonfuls of flour, which dilute very slowly with one pint of milk, add one spoonful of salt, quarter that of pepper, beat an egg well in it, if used for a toad-in-the-hole. A little parsley, chopped onions, or a little spice, makes an agreeable change; it will also make nice puddings, if baked alone, or under a joint in a well-greased tin.
A Commoner Sort.—For toad-in-the-hole use water, if you have no milk or eggs handy; a little suet, or fat chopped fine, is an improvement.
463. How to Boil and Dress Macaroni.—Put in an iron pot or stew-pan two quarts of water; let it boil; add two teaspoonfuls of salt, one ounce of butter; then add one pound of macaroni, boil till tender; let it be rather firm to the touch; it is then ready for use, either for soup, pudding, or to be dressed with cheese. Drain it in a cullender; put it back in the pan, add four ounces of cheese or more, a little butter, salt, and pepper; toss it well together and serve. It will be found light and nutritious, and well worthy the notice of vegetarians.
464. How to Toast Bread.—Procure a nice square loaf that has been baked one or two days previously, then with a sharp knife cut off the bottom crust evenly, and then as many slices as you require, about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Contrive to have a clear fire: place a slice of the bread upon a toasting-fork, about an inch from one of the sides, hold it a minute before the fire, then turn it, hold it another minute, by which time the bread will be thoroughly hot, then begin to move it gradually to and fro until the whole surface has assumed a yellowish-brown colour, then turn it again, toasting the other side in the same manner; lay it then upon a hot plate, have some fresh or salt butter, (which must not be too hard, as pressing it upon the toast would make it heavy,) spread a piece, rather less than an ounce, over, and cut the toast into four or six pieces; should you require six such slices for a numerous family, about a quarter of a pound of butter would suffice for the whole. You will then have toast made to perfection.
464a. Jam of all kinds.—Almost all small farmers and cottagers have generally some kind of fruit to spare at the end of the season, any of which can be made into jam. Thus, for strawberry jam, pick one pound of strawberries, put them in a pan with three quarters of a pound of white powdered sugar; put the whole on the fire, stir with a wooden spoon, and boil till rather thick; or try a little on a plate, if it sets. When cold, fill your preserve jars, cover over with strong white paper, and let them remain in a rather cold place.
Raspberries and green gooseberries will require a little more boiling, and more sugar. Cranberries, mulberries, cherries, and currants, can all be done the same way.
464b. Currant Jelly.—Put in a pan half a sieve of fresh gathered currants, with the stalks; add to it a gill of water, put on the fire, and boil till every currant has opened; then pass the juice through a sieve or cullender, and to every quart put one pound of white sugar; boil fast and skim, and when the preserve begins to stick to the spoon, and is quite clear, fill your preserve pots, and cover over when cold; but, to be sure, try some on a plate before potting. If it sets well it is done; a few raspberries added is an improvement.
465. Red Cabbage.—I perceive in most cottages the garden possesses a few of these exceedingly useful productions; at some seasons they grow larger than others, when they should be pickled thus:—Cut them into thin slices, remove the hard stalk, lay them on a slab, cover with salt for twelve hours, turning them now and then, clean off all the salt, and place them in stone jars; boil some vinegar, and to every quart add one ounce of black pepper, and seven button onions, or two large ones sliced, boil for five minutes, and pour over cabbage; cover the jar, and let it remain three weeks before using.
Onions may be omitted, and only cold vinegar used, but I do not approve of it, being hard and indigestible. A bunch of sweet herbs boiled in the vinegar is an improvement.
I send you no other receipts, as mixed pickles can now be bought cheaper than they can be made at home.
466. Simplified Mode of Making Coffee.—Put one ounce of ground coffee in a pan, which place over the fire; keep stirring it until quite hot, but take care it does not bum; then pour over quickly a quart of boiling water, close it immediately, keep it not far from the fire, but not to simmer; then fill your cup without shaking it; or pass it through a cloth into a coffee pot, or it may be made some time previous, and warmed again. The grounds can be kept, and boiled for making the coffee of the next day, by which at least a quarter of an ounce is saved. In country places, where milk is good and cheap, I recommend that half boiled milk should be used with the coffee. The idea of warming coffee is my own, and the economy is full ten per cent.
The following is the result of some of my experiments with this system. But I must first tell you that my exertions in the fashionable quarter of St. Giles's gave great satisfaction to my septuagenarian pupil, whom I taught to cook the ox cheek, and she and several of her neighbours clubbed together to give a fashionable "tea," which of course my vanity made me immediately accept. Having but little confidence in what they would provide, I bought a quarter of a pound of ground coffee, intending giving them a lesson how to make coffee. On my arrival, I was received like a princess in a fairy land; the little parlour was not only clean, but ornamented, at the cost of a few pence, with wall flowers from the neighbouring garden (the best in the world, Covent Garden), generously dispensing their perfume over pyramids of muffins and crumpets. Having cordially shaken hands with my host, I set cheerfully to work, and got hold of an old pitcher, but clean; in it I put the coffee, and placed it close before the fire, begging the old lady to keep turning it round, and stirring it till the powder was hot. I then poured three quarts of boiling water, allowed it to stand for ten minutes, and then poured it out into the cups, with the best milk that could be got, and sugar. The coffee being partaken of, I put into each cup a good teaspoonful of canister cocoa, with half a teaspoonful of sugar, holding the kettle in one hand and a spoon in the other. I poured on the water, and kept stirring all the time, adding a little milk. In the meantime I had put one ounce of tea into a large teapot, which I had placed by the side of the fire, in order that the leaves should get hot, so that when the water was poured on them, that they should immediately give forth their aroma. By the time the cocoa had been partaken of, the tea was ready, and it was declared by all the old dames present that they never had had such a cup of tea, although they bought it at the same shop, and paid the same price; and they could not account for such "legerdemain," but would endeavour to imitate it. I was greatly thanked on my departure, and received the compliment of an old shoe being thrown after me; not a French dancing shoe, but a genuine British bit of solid work, the sole having a very uneven appearance, being studded with several dozen of iron nails.
Thus terminated the entertainment given to me by these poor but grateful people of the black back street of St. Giles's.
I made the cocoa thus, not having sufficient utensils; but I have found it an economical plan to make the ground cocoa hot, adding a little water, and mixing it smooth with either cold milk or water, it gives it a richness which is not got by the usual system. Place it on the fire, keep stirring, and when just on the point of boiling, serve. Chocolate can be made the same way, only stirring it more, with a spoon, ii you have no chocolate pot.
In the way of coffee, in my opinion, nothing can he more pure than what I bought the other day from the canister, when walking by chance in the Borough, at the shop of Messrs. White and Fairchild; and I must, while on this subject, be allowed to state that, in my opinion, a good cup of coffee cannot be made without the introduction of a little chicory, although I am aware that some dealers imposed on the public by selling an article composed of chicory at a coffee price. I cannot but admire Messrs. White's plan, which is on no account to sell any ground coffee mixed with chicory, but to sell it to their customers the one separate from the other. They then recommended to me some canister coffee, patented and prepared only by them. On opening the canister the aroma was very refreshing. On asking how it was roasted (rather a bold question on my part, I admit), he very civilly asked mo to follow him to the back of the premises, where some very extensive rooms are fitted up for the purpose of roasting; he then put some coffee-berries into a cylinder six feet in length and twenty inches in circumference; then put them in a furnace which roasted the berries in a most scientific manner, being turned during the while by the aid of steam power. When sufficiently roasted, the coffee was, while hot, put in a steam mill and ground, being forced from the mill into the canisters and sealed up as soon as possible, and put into stock. I beg to forward you one of the four quarter of a pound packets I bought. On testing it I found that an ounce made one quart of excellent coffee.
As far as the food of man goes, I believe, dearest, that onr duty is almost at an end; but here is one important item which supports the vitality of man as much as food does, I mean beverages; in fact, one is inseparable from the other: to drink without eating, or to eat without drinking, would soon send us to an early grave. True, if too much is taken of one or the other, it upsets the digestive organs, and materially affects the functions of that most important part of the human frame, the stomach, which, acting in accordance with the wonderful works of nature, refuses any food or drink that does not accord with its functions. True, bad food and beverages of all kinds are sometimes forced on it; but then,' if it does not disturb its functions immediately, it acts on it gradually, and in course of time entirely destroys its coating or toilette. Is it not, then, important, that great care should be taken in what we eat or drink? The best of food is often spoilt by drinking bad beverages. Amongst the higher orders of society, the pride of an "epicure" is to select the best of wines, which he considers one of his greatest treasures, scientifically classing them to the various courses of his dinner.
You probably will again remark, that I am deviating from the purport of our present little work, by alluding to the higher class of living in its pages, while in reality it is intended for the million, and not for the wealthy few. My excuse is, that if a rich gourmet take so much care in selecting his beverages, why should not a poor housewife be as particular in choosing her more humble drinks? Is it not more desirable for the artizan, who cannot afford to drink much beer, to have with his meal a sound clear glass of pure water, full of health and life, than to have a muddy one? For I nave actually seen people drink the drainings as they drip from the roof of a house—the simple idea of letting it rest for a minute never entering their heads; or better still, to clarify it by passing it through a clean cloth, or giving it a boil, and letting it get cold before drinking, for any doubtful water will improve and get soft by boiling.
For those in middling circumstances, who can afford their malt liquor at their meals, pale ale, or light table-beer, or ale, is preferable to any heavy stout, as they facilitate digestion.
Since my return from France, there is nothing I miss so much as that light and cooling drink called by our allies "Vin ordinaire," though I was in hopes that after the great exertions made by several members of parliament, a reduction of the duty on these simple but generous wines would take place, though probably they would not be partaken of to any great extent by the masses, who would not understand their properties, although there is not one Englishman out of twenty who visits France, but who in time takes a liking to these really harmless wines.
I do not want to deprive you of your sherry or port before or after dinner; however, recollect that nothing assists digestion and refreshes the palate more than a good glass of light wine; and therefore it would be a great boon to the public if they could be imported free of duty.
To our friend Dr. King I am much indebted, after having had a conversation on the above subject, for his sending, to me the other day a case of pure French wine, having, as he stated in his letter, been present while it was drawn from the rough French cask. I was more astonished when he informed me that its price was only twenty-eight shillings per dozen, and was purchased from the famous house of Campbell, of Regent Street, London. It appears that this gentleman pays an annual visit to the different vintages and villages which encompass the banks of the Garonne, and purchases largely from the peasantry, remaining there all the brewing season, and personally superintending its make. The principal wines are called "La Rose," " St. Julien," "Vin do Grave," "Sauterne," "Barsac," and numerous other kinds, all of which are highly recommended by the faculty. Light Amontillado, Rhenish wine, and Bucellas, are also commendable at meal-times.
For those who cannot afford to buy malt liquors or wines, I have teen led to try the following receipts, which will be found extremely useful for people in small circumstances.
467. Put a gallon of water on to boil, cut up one pound of apples, each one into quarters, put them in the water, and boil them until they can be pulped, pass the liquor through a cullender, boil it up again with half a pound of brown sugar, scum, and bottle for use, taking care not to cork the bottle, and keep it in a cool place: the apples may be eaten with sugar.
Another way.—Bake the apples first, then put them in a gallon pan, add the sugar, and pour boiling water over, let it get cold, pass the liquor as above, and bottle.
468. Apple Toast and Water.—A piece of bread, slowly toasted till it gets quite black, and added to the above, makes a very nice and refreshing drink for invalids.
469. Apple Barley Water.—A quarter of a pound of pearl barley instead of toast added to the above, and boil for one hour, is also a very nice drink.
470. Apple Rice Water.—Half a pound of rice, boiled in the above until in pulp, passed through a cullender, and drunk when cold.
All kinds of fruits may be done the same way.
Figs and French plums are excellent; also raisins.
A little ginger, if approved of, may be used.
471. For Spring Drink.—Rhubarb, in the same quantities, and done in the same way as apples, adding more sugar, is very cooling.
Also green gooseberries.
471a. Lemonade.—Cut in very thin slices three lemons, put them in a basin, add half a pound of sugar, either white or brown; bruise altogether, add a gallon of water, and stir well. It is then ready.
472. For Summer Drink.—One pound of red currants, bruised with some raspberry, half a pound of sugar added to a gallon of cold water, well stirred, allowed to settle, and bottled.
473. Mulberry.—The same, adding a little lemon-peel.
A little cream of tartar or citric acid added to these renders them more cooling in summer and spring.
Notes: