Alexis Soyer's Part 4: The Gridiron and Frying Pan
Welcome to FabulousFusion's Alexis Soyer's Part 4 (The Gridiron and Frying Pan) Page — Here you will find the full text from the fourth section: The Gridiron and Frying Pan; of Alexis Soyer's A Shilling Cookery Book for the People As well as the full text this page also provides links out to the overall index of the book and links to modern redactions of each and every recipe (where practicable). This site builds a complete library of Eliza Acton recipes, allowing the modern cook to make them at home today. Enjoy...
GENERAL IGNORANCE OF THE POOR IN COOKING.
Ox cheeks may be bought at present, cut from the bone, and very fresh, at about twopence-halfpenny to threepence per pound, in London. It is the most gelatinous food which the ox produces, and contains a large amount of nourishment, as I have already mentioned to you. The only drawback there is to it is the length of time it requires to cook, and the general way in which it is done, being in many cases prejudicial to its use. Frequently on my visits to the abodes of the poor, while in London last winter, I have often seen this article of food completely spoiled. On one occasion, I asked an old lady bow she cooked it. "Sure enough," said she, " by fire." "But, my dear woman," I inquired, "how long do you cook it?" "Ah!" she replied, "sometimes as long as an hour, and boiling like the very deuce all the time, till the water will not stand it any longer." "And pray," I asked, "what do you do with the water?" "Faith, there is no water left, but only black muck at the bottom of the pot, which I throw away," was her reply.
Therefore I am always of the same opinion, dearest Eloise, as regards our long talked of scheme of opening a national school to teach the poor how to cook their food, and make the most of it. Some of the money spent on our new palace prisons would be much better employed for this purpose, and would ultimately decrease the parish rates.
But I am digressing from the conversation I bad with this old dame. When I found she was so ignorant, I asked her if I should come and teach her how to cook, properly, an ox cheek. "No, faith," said she, " I have no money to throw away, not even enough to buy another." Sanguine as I always am upon my favourite theme, I offered to bring one with me, as a present, the following day, and gave her sixpence to buy some sand to clean her iron pot, which I found done on my arrival the following day; she having also purchased two pennyworth of coals out of the money. I then produced the ox cheek, and put it into the pot with four quarts of cold water, and four teaspoonfuls of salt, and some leaves of celery, which articles were given to her by a neighbouring greengrocer. Her fire was made up, and the pot was placed on it, until boiling, and then removed to the side of it, and skimmed. There I left it, and went round to pay my other visits.
At the end of three hours I returned, and, she having a large basin in the room, I put some crusts of bread in it, and poured the liquid from the pot into it, and the meat I placed on a dish, and sat down with the old dame, serving the soup out into cups with a beer jug, having nothing better, and, to her great surprise, cut the cheek easily with a very bad knife, it being so tender. After tasting it, and finding it very good, she said she would show her neighbours how to do it. I told her that, if she would do so, I would give her more like receipts, when she exclaimed, "Bless you, ma'am, do; I will do them as well as you, now I have seen you do it." In anticipation of sending them to her the next day, I was about to retire, wishing her goodbye. "Lor', ma'am," said she, "you would not go without taking a drop of the 'crature.'" To my astonishment, a small bottle was brought out of her pocket, and offered to me. from its strange smell, I was induced to taste it, and I feel confident, if it had been analyzed by the " Lancet," it would have proved to be real Hue ruin, composed, as it was, of a mixture of vitriol, &c.
This opened to me the secret of the emaciated looks of the thousands of the inhabitants of these back alleys, and I could then account for the remainder of my change out of the sixpence. I, however, sent her the following receipts, of course omitting her favourite seasoning—gin.
Having sent her the receipts, as promised, on reconsideration, it occurred to me that the old lady might not be able to read. I was not mistaken, for on calling upon her, I found six elderly matrons and an old man holding council together, and trying to make out the writing. The latter was just sending for his grandson, who, he said, was a scholar, having been three months at a Sunday-school. My arrival set all to rights, at the same time it frightened three of the council away; but I begged the others to stop, and hear the receipts read, which they accordingly did, afterwards giving several copies away.
115. 1st Lesson.—Rub an ox cheek (middle size, or half a large one) with four teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper; put it into the iron pot, with four quarts of cold water; set it on the fire to boil; remove it then to the side, and simmer gently for three hours after it begins to boil. Skim off the fat, which will do for puddings, and, at the expiration of the time, nearly three quarts of very strong gravy, in addition to the meat properly done and tender, Will be found in the pot. A gill of colouring is an improvement to the look of the broth. A head of celery, or some leaves of it, or onions, &c., may be added in boiling. Put the head on a dish, and serve the soup separately, with bread in it.
116. 2nd Lesson.—Or any small quantity of mixed vegetables may be used. They should all be cut into dice, and not peeled, but well cleaned, with the exception of the dried skin of the onion. One pound of rice, at the cost of twopence-halfpenny, when added, is a great improvement; or half-a-pint of split peas, or barley, or a pint of white haricot beans, or a pint of Indian meal soaked the over-night, or a little flour to make the gravy or broth thick. It may be varied in several ways; but the chief point is, when once boiled, simmer slowly till tender, which you may ascertain by piercing it with a fork; if it sticks to it, it is not sufficiently done. Sheep and lamb's head may be done the same way, but will only take one quarter of the time; season accordingly.
This receipt is applicable to all kinds of hard meat.
THE GRIDIRON AND FRYING-PAN.
The Results of their Rivalry in Domestic Cookery.
Your favourite utensil, the frying-pan, Eloise, is, without doubt, the most useful of all kitchen implements, and like a good-natured servant, is often imposed upon, and obliged to do all the work, while its companion, the gridiron, is quietly reposing in the chimney corner.
The following scene was witnessed by those two faithful servants, the other afternoon, in a domestic establishment, where the sly dog of a gridiron often laughs between its bars at the overworked frying-pan.
The husband, who is employed by a railway contractor, and a man who is what the world calls middling well off, and who has risen by his own exertions and abilities from a more humble position, arrives home, and asks his wife what he can have for dinner, the hour of her dinner, and that of the children, having long past. "What would you like to have, my dear?" was her question. "Anything yon have." "Let's see! why—we have nothing, but I can get you a mutton chop, or steak." "Can I have nothing else; I am tired of chops and steaks." "Why, my dear, what can be better than a chop or a steak?" "Well, let me have a steak." "You had that yesterday, my dear: now, let me get you a chop. I always make it my duty to study your comfort; and as I have been reading, not long since, a medical work on diseases of the skin, written by Dr. Erasmus Wilson, in which he says that nothing is so wholesome as a change of food, since which time I have made a point of varying our bill of fare, as they call it in that useful work." "Very well, send for two chops." In about twenty minutes the servant returns, saying she could get no chops, but has got a nice piece of steak. "Very well. That will do as well, will it not, my dear?" to her husband, who is reading a periodical." "Yes; but how long will you keep me here before it is done?" "Not a minute, my love. Now, Jane, do that well on the gridiron." Jane descends, but quickly returns, saying, "Please, ma'am, the fire is not fit for broiling." "Well, fry it," is her answer. The husband, who hears it, exclaims, "Drat the frying-pan, It is always so greasy." "Then, my dear, how would you like to have it." "Not at all," was his reply, throwing down the paper, and exclaiming; "Bother the place, there is no getting any victuals properly cooked here. I must go to the cook-shop and have it." He seizes his hat, and slamming the door, makes his exit in a passion.
The mistress blames Jane, and begins to beat the child for having upset the milk on the toast. Jane kicks the cat, and gives warning. The night comes. There are no candles in the house. Jane is sent out for them, hut does not return in proper time. The husband arrives, and finds all in darkness. They quarrel, and swear they must separate in order to "live comfortably together." Jane comes home, and is ordered to pack up her boxes, in order to be off the first tiling in the morning, by which time, however, their tempers have had time to cool, and Jane is accordingly reinstated in her former position.
Moral (not on fable, but on truth): A man disappointed in something to eat, consoles himself with something to drink. If he has no stimulus in wholesome food, he will have it in pernicious spirit. He is quarrelsome, scolds his wife, beats his children, frequents the dram-shop, and becomes what is called a bad husband. It is not altogether his fault, the dinner was not eatable, and he must have something to support him, which he foolishly finds in spirits; and thus, by the want of attention on the part of the wife, is made what he is. In no country in the world do the annals of police courts show such scenes as arc daily noticed in the public journals of London, which the increase of punishment by a modern law has not yet succeeded In putting down.
Before proceeding with the following receipt, it is advisable to read the introduction of semi-fried steaks, and steaks in pan, page 55, as it would to tautology to repeat it here.
IMPORTANT REMARKS ON STEAK AND RUMP STEAK.
Broiled Steaks and Sump Steak.—Previous to cooking a steak, nurse your fire; it will well repay your trouble, and also remember, in the morning, that you are obliged to dine that very identical day, and no doubt you decide upon having a steak for dinner, which is a very good thing, when the meat is good and well cooked, also fix the hour you intend to dine, and half an hour previous stir up the fire, clear away the ashes, stir all dead cinders from the bottom, and in a few minutes you will have a clear fire, fit for the use of the gridiron; and every article you may submit to that process of cookery stands a chance of being well done. I herewith forward you the following lesson:—
117. First Lesson.—For first quality of steak, the meat ought to be well hung, and if cut nicely off the rump of a Scotch beast will weigh from a pound and a quarter to a pound and a half, that is, being three-quarters of an inch thick; if it should be cut rather thicker in one part than another, beat it even with a chopper; if of the above thickness, it should be placed about five inches above the fire; if thicker, six inches; taking it as an invariable rule, that the thicker the steak, the further in proportion it must be from the fire. The extra piece of fat which accompanies it should be put on a little after the steak, or it will be too much done. Whilst doing, throw over some pepper and salt, and turn it the moment the fat begins to drop: the motive of constantly turning the steak is to keep the gravy in. Never put a fork into it to turn it, but use a pair of tongs; but if you have not any, place the fork in the fat and turn it. When the steak is done, it will feel firm under the pressure of the finger.
Second Lesson.—Sometimes it is impossible to broil over the fire, but easy to use a double gridiron, to broil in front. In such cases, the gridiron should never be opened until the steak is done; then the gravy will not be pressed out. If carefully attended to, this plan is as good as the other, but otherwise, it spoils the best of meat.
The time required for a nice tender rump steak, three-quarters of an inch thick, weighing a pound and a quarter, over or before a nice clear fire, is from twelve to fifteen minutes. If turned four times in that time, the gravy will remain in it, and if served immediately, on a hot dish (not too hot, to dry up the gravy), it will eat tender and juicy, and be fit for a member of the Rump Steak Club.
Third Lesson.—Some persons put a bit of butter on the dish, others ketchup, others sauces of various kinds; all these should be left to the party who partakes of it; it is the duty of the cook to send it up plainly, but properly seasoned with salt and pepper, unless otherwise ordered. Every pound of steak will require one and a half teaspoonfuls of salt, and a half of pepper.
But if required flavoured and seasoned to satisfy a blasé appetite, then the following should be adopted.
118. Rump Steak with Eschalot.—Chop up one eschalot very fine, mix it with a teaspoonful of salt and half of pepper, rub the steak all over with it, and press it in with a knife; place it over the fire as the above, cook and serve. If not required so strong, rub only the gridiron and the dish with eschalot.*
Rump Steak with Eschalot Butter.—Cut up two eschalots very fine, and mix it with half an ounce of butter, which spread over the under part of the steak when dishing up.
Rump Steak with Maitre d'Hôtel Butter.—When your steak is just done, rub it over with an ounce of prepared butter as No. 426.
Devilled Steak.—Mix in a plate two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of cayenne, two of made mustard; place the steak on the fire; after the first turn spread half of the mixture on it, and dredge it with flour; do the same with the other side. Broil as above.
Curry Powder, mixed with mustard, or curry paste alone, can he rubbed over the same way.
119. Wakefield Steak.—Cut a steak one inch thick, score it on each side, crossways. Put into a tart dish two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, one of sugar, a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon, a tablespoonful of Soyer's relish, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar; put the steak in it for six hours; turn it now and then. This seasoning is called marinade. Previous to broiling, dredge it lightly with some flour, while doing, and serve with butter in very small pieces under the steak. At Wakefield they sometimes use the Warncliffe sauce.
Some raw potatoes cut into very thin slices, and nicely fried, served round it, renders it a dish fit for the greatest epicure. This dish proves that the inhabitants of Wakefield have not lost the culinary reputation they formerly possessed, and which they first acquired some four hundred years since, when the French queen and her suite came to reside there, and allowed them to quarter the fleur-de-lis in the arms of the town. Beef skirt and other pieces may be all done in the same way, allowing time to cook according to the quality and hardness of the pieces you dress.
120. Mutton Chops.*—These may all be cooked and flavoured like the steaks, but in many cases garlic is used instead of eschalot, when preferred. Peel a clove of garlick, put it on the end of a fork, and rub both sides of the chop lightly with it. Chopped mushrooms are very good with broiled chops. Any fleshy part of the sheep may be broiled the same way.
121. Mutton Chop.—In my opinion, two chops out of a fine South Down, well hung, cut three quarters of an inch thick, leaving half an inch of fat round them, and broiled over a clear fire for ten minutes, turned four times, sprinkled with salt and pepper, served on a hot plate, one at a time, wi'h a nice mealy potato, is as good, as wholesome, and nutritious a dinner as can be partaken of. One and a half teaspoonful of salt and a half of pepper to a pound of chops, is a good seasoning.
122. Plain Veal Chops are broiled as above. A veal chop, nicely cut from the leg, ought to weigh one pound. I am ot opinion that to broil a veal chop by the direct action of the fire is an act of Vandalism. Of course, if there is no time to do it other ways, it must be done so; but that so delicate a kind of food should be subject to such fierce treatment in order to spoil it, is what I do not approve of. It ought to be wrapped up in a sheet of buttered paper, with pepper and salt on it. The sheet of paper ought to be large, thick foolscap; the chop laid on one half, the other brought over, and the edges folded over so that no gravy escapes. They should be placed eight inches above the fire, and broiled for at least twenty minutes, and served in the paper very hot. A little chopped mushroom or parsley may be placed in the paper, and improves the flavour.
123. Veal Cutlet.—A pound of veal not more than half an inch thick, from the fillet, will make three cutlets, and should be broiled with some bacon. The same objection exists with this as the former; but both veal and bacon wrapped up in paper, and broiled as above, is very excellent; a little chopped chives, eschalots, or onions, may be added.
124. Pork Chops.—These should be cut not quite so thick as mutton, and the skin left on. They will take one third longer to do. Well rubbed with pepper and salt, and an onion, previous to broiling, is an improvement.
These can be served with any sauce, as apple, tomata, horseradish, mustard, sage and onion, &c. &c.
125. Calves' Heart should be cut lengthways, and the pieces not thicker than half an inch; broil with a piece of fat, or bacon, for ten minutes: serve with a little currant jelly and butter in the dish, under the pieces of heart.
It is also excellent (see No. 119) marinaded for a few hours, and the following may be done any way like steak.
Ox, pig's, lamb, and sheep's heart, may be done, like it.
Also the livers of the above, cut the same thickness, and broiled with some bacon, a little melted butter with ketchup in it, is a good sauce for broiled heart and liver. Observe, Eloise, that I shall be obliged to send you many similar receipts to these for frying-pan, but the flavour will be very different.
126. Lamb Chops should be cut not more than half an inch thick, and broiled before the fire very close and quick; they will take from eight to ten minutes. Throw some pepper and salt over, and serve very hot, with fried parsley round them, if handy. Lamb chops might be dressed in paper, the same as veal.
127. Broiled Ham.—A slice of ham a quarter of an inch thick will take seven or eight minutes, over a sharp fire, turning it often.
Bacon about the same.
128. Sausages should be placed high above a slow fire, and done slowly: they will take ten minutes; beef sausages, about eight minutes; prick them first with a fork, or they will burst.
129. Black Puddings.—These are often partaken of cold, after having been boiled, but they are best after broiling: they should be at least eight inches above the fire, and the skins pricked, and will take fifteen minutes doing, turning several times.
130. Cold Meat Broiled.—The remains of cold meat cut into slices a quarter of an inch thick; season with salt and pepper; when hot through, rub with a little butter, turn it often, and serve with a little ketchup in the dish.
This may be varied with any sauce, or chopped herbs.
131. Broiled Bones.—When these have a little meat on them, they should be rubbed over with salt and pepper, and a little butter, broiled some distance above or before the fire, that they may get gradually warm, and should be served very hot, and rather brown.
Remains of poultry, game, &c., should be done the same.
132. Devilled Bone.—The remains of the rib of a sirloin of beef, or the blade-bone of a shoulder of mutton, the legs of fowls, turkeys, &c., should be slightly cut all round with a knife, and well rubbed with cayenne and salt, and a teaspoonful of Chili vinegar, or ketchup, or Relish, and broiled gently until hot through and brown. Serve very hot. 133. Broiled and Devilled Toast.—Toast a round of bread, cut a quarter of an inch thick; mix in a plate one ounce of butter, half a teaspoonful of cayenne, one teaspoonful of mustard, one teaspoonful of Relish, or Sauce; spread it over the toast, and serve very hot. Broiled kidneys or sausages may be served on it.
134. Broiled Kidneys.—Sheep's kidneys should be cut in the middle, so as nearly to divide them, leaving the fat in the middle; run a skewer through them, that they may remain open; broil gently; five minutes for a common size is sufficient. Season with salt and pepper; rub apiece of butter over, and serve. They can be served on toast, or with any sauce.
Lamb's, pig's, calves', and ox kidneys, may be done the same way, but the two latter will take much longer, and should be better done. You may also egg and bread-crumb them.
135. Broiled Fowls, Pigeons, &c.—These, if whole, should be cut in down the back, after being drawn and well skewered to keep them so, or beaten fiat with the chopper. Season well with pepper and salt; well grease a double gridiron, and place them a sufficient distance from a moderate fire; turn often. A fowl, if small, will take from twenty-five to thirty minutes; if large, three quarters of an hour; pigeons about ten minutes. Serve either plain, or with any sauce that is liked. They may be egged and bread crumbed.
FRYING-PAN.—INTRODUCTION.
This useful utensil, which is so much in vogue in all parts of the world, and even for other purposes besides cookery—for I have before me now a letter, written, at the Ovens' diggings, on the back of a frying-pan, for want of a table; but in your letter you suggest the necessity of paving particular attention to it, as it is the utensil most in vogue in a bachelor's residence. I cannot but admire your constant devotion to the bachelors: you are always in fear that this unsociable class of individuals should be uncomfortable. For my part, I do not pity them, and would not give myself the slightest trouble to comfort them, especially after they have passed the first thirty springs of their life. Let them get married, and enjoy the troubles, pleasures, and comforts of matrimony, and have a wife to manage their home, and attend to more manly pursuits than cooking their supper when they get home at night, because the old housekeeper has gone to bed; or lighting the fire when they get up in the morning, because the old dame has a slight touch of lumbago; and should he require something substantial for his breakfast, and want that utensil of all work, the frying-pan, finds it all dirt and fishy, not having been cleaned since he last dined at home.
No, my dear Eloise, I assure you 1 do not feel at all inclined to add to their comforts, though you may do what you like with the following receipts, which are equally as applicable to them, as to the humble abode of the married fraternity.
You will also find, in these receipts, that the usual complaint of food being greasy by frying, is totally remedied, by sautéing the meat in a small quantity of fat, butter, or oil, which has attained a proper degree of heat, instead of placing it in cold fat and letting it soak while melting.
I will, in as few words as possible, having my frying-pan in one hand and a rough cloth in the other, with which to wipe it (considering that cleanliness is the first lesson in cookery), initiate you in the art of producing an innumerable number of dishes, which can be made with it, quickly, economically, relishing, and wholesome. But I must first tell you, that the word fry, in the English language, is a mistake; according to the mode in which all objects are cooked which are called fried, it would answer to the French word sauté, or the old English term frizzle; but to fry any object, it should be immersed in very hot fat, oil, or butter, as I have carefully detailed to you in our "Modern Housewife." To frizzle, sauté", or, as I will now designate it, semi-fry, is to place into the pan any oleaginous substance, so that, when melted, it shall cover the bottom of the pan by about two lines; and, when hot, the article to be cooked shall be placed therein. To do it to perfection requires a little attention, so that the pan shall never get too hot. It should be perfectly clean— a great deal depends on this.
I prefer the pan, for many objects, over the gridiron; that is, if the pan is properly used. As regards economy, it is preferable, securing all the fat and gravy, which is often lost when the gridiron is used.
All the following receipts can be done with this simple batterie de cuisine, equally as well in the cottage as in the palace, or in the bachelor's chamber as in the rooms of the poor.
136. 1st Lesson. To Semi-fry Steak.—Having procured a steak about three quarters of an inch thick, and weighing about one pound, and two ounces of fat, place the pan on the fire, with one ounce of butter or fat; let it remain until the fat is melted, and rather hot; take hold of the steak at one end by a fork, and dip it in the pan, so that one side is covered with fat; then turn the other side in it, and let it remain for two or three minutes, according to the heat of the fire; then turn it: it will take about ten or twelve minutes, and require to be turned on each side three times, taking care that the pan is not too hot, 05 it will burn the gravy, and perhaps the meat, and thus lose all the nutriment; in fact, the pan should never be left, but carefully watched; on this depends the advantages of this style and mode of cookery. If the object is not turned often, it will be noticed that the gravy will come out on the upper surface of the meat, which, when turning over, will go into the pan and be lost, instead of remaining in the meat. Season with a teaspoonful of salt and a quarter of pepper; then feel with the finger that it is done, remove it with a fork, inserted in the fat, and serve very hot.
So much for the first lesson, the details of which must be learnt, as it will then simplify every other receipt.
137. 2nd Lesson.—Remember that the thickness is never to exceed one inch, nor be less than half an inch, and to be as near as possible the same thickness all over. A good housewife will object to one cut in any other way; but if it cannot be avoided, press it out with the blade of the knife, to give it the proper thickness. When done, wipe the pan clean; and place it on a hook against the wall, with the inside of the pan nearest the wall, to prevent the dust getting in.
Now, dear Eloise, you will perhaps say that the foregoing lessons are too long for so simple a thing as a steak, as everybody think themselves capable of cooking it without tuition, but having now given these directions, I hope those who fancy they can cook without learning will know better for the future, and pay a little attention to so important a subject.
138.—The above lesson may be varied by adding to the pan, with the seasoning, a few chopped onions, or eschalots, parsley, mushrooms.pickles, semi-fried at the same time or after.and poured over the steak; or when the steak is dished up, a little butter, or chopped parsley and butter, or two spoonfuls of either Relish, Harvey's, or any other good sauce that may be handy. Pour the fat of the steak into a basin for future use. Some fried potatoes may be served with it, or the following additions made: after the steak is done, slice a quarter of a pound of onions to each pound of steak, and a little more fat; fry quickly, and when brown place round the steak; pour the gravy over.
Some mushrooms, if small, whole, if large, sliced, put in the Jan and fried, are excellent.
Two tablespoonfuls of mixed pickle, put into the pan after the steak is removed, fried a little, then add two tablespoonfuls of the liquor and two of water; when on the point of boiling pour over the steak. The same may be done with pickled walnuts and gherkins, or two ounces of tavern-keepers' butter rubbed over, (see No. 427,) or half a pint of oyster sauce, or mussel sauce, or horseradish sauce; or a little flour dredged over the steak, and a little water added in the pan, when the steak is done, and a little colouring or ketchup, and then poured over the steak.
These receipts can be continued and multiplied to any extent, entirely depending on the taste of the cook.
A steak may first be dipped in flour, and well shook; then, when you have semi-fried your meat, it will have acquired a nice brown; this may also be applied to veal cutlets, pork and mutton chops, poultry and game. 139. Another Way.—When your steak is partly done, dredge both sides over with a spoonful of flour, dish up, pour out the fat, put a gill of water in the pan; let it simmer a few minutes,—it will make a nice thick sauce.
139A. Beefsteak, with Semi-fried Potatoes.—Rub and semi-fry your steak, adding thin slices of potatoes, letting them lie in the pan while the steak is doing; turn them as often as you do the steak, serve round with gravy, to make which pour half a gill of water in the pan under the steak—the moisture of the potatoes will cause some of the gravy to come out of the meat, but it will be found very good.
140. A Series of Lessons how to Semi-fry Chops of all kinds. Lesson 1.—First select your mutton. Let it not be too fat; if it is, cut some off. Always observe that a mutton chop should be one third fat, and of the same thickness throughout. Have them cut from the loin, let them be about an inch in thickness. Very little attention will accomplish this important point; for I feel convinced, Eloise, that an ill-cut chop never can be but ill-cooked; you can always equalize them by beating them out with a chopper. Have your frying-pan very clean; put in an ounce of butter, or, if you like, dripping or lard; let it get rather hot. As soon as it begins to smoke, take your chop with a fork, by the small end, and dip it in the fat for half a minute; then turn it, let it semi-fry for about three minutes, season the uppermost side with a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, and half that quantity of pepper; then turn it, and serve the other side the same way. You may then turn it several times while doing, as that equalizes the cooking, as well as carbonizes the meat. Ten minutes will cook it to perfection, and less, if thinner.
Second Lesson.—If the above directions are properly attended to, the chop will present the appearance of a rich brown colour, and the fat a gold colour, cutting extremely white and light, while the meat will look darkish, and give a strong gravy which will almost stick to the knife, instead of running on the plate and partaking of a watery red colour, as is the case when a chop is slowly and badly cooked. This last sort of gravy is called by some people rich, which I am sure,, my dear, you will find to be a great mistake; though the badly-cooked chop will probably weigh more than the other, from not having lost so much of its substance, yet it will not possess half the nutriment and flavour of a chop well done. The above quantity of seasoning will do for a chop weighing about a quarter of a pound, and would, I may safely say, suit the palate of fifteen persons out of twenty; therefore I hope it will diminish the load of salt and pepper every Englishman piles on his plate, previous to tasting the article of food placed before him. The cook ought to season for the guest, not the guest for the cook.
141. Third Lesson.—When you can thoroughly cook a chop according to the first lesson, it materially simplifies the second, which is thus done:—Get a chop and cook it as above, but to vary the flavour, when half cooked, sprinkle over it a little chopped chives, or eschalots, or onions, spice, or aromatic herbs; or when done, rub both sides of the chop lightly with a clove of peeled garlic, or a piece of fresh or maitre d'hôtel butter. These remarks are applicable to all kinds of semi-fried meat.
The Fourth Lesson is still more simplified, my dear Eloise, namely, cook your chop plainly, as before directed, eat it yourself, and let me know how you relished it.
Chops from the neck, called cutlets, are done in this manner. Pork, veal, and ham chops require the same style of seasoning and cooking. A slow fire is preferable to a sharp one for the above mentioned chops, which, when semi-fried, will take a gold colour, as above-mentioned. You may always ascertain when the chop is done by pressing your finger on the thick part; if the flesh is firm and well set on both sides, it is done and ready to serve. Half a pint of chopped pickled red cabbage put in the pan after the chop is done and warmed through will be found very relishing, especially for pork cutlets.
142. Mutton Cutlets.—The chop from the neck is the best to semi-fry; they should be nicely cut, and the bone at the thick part removed, as it prevents the meat from doing; then beat up the yolk and white of an egg, with a pinch of salt; have ready some bread-crumbs, made from stale bread, and sifted, (this may always be kept ready in a canister); beat out the cutlets with a small chopper, dip them or rub them with a brush with the egg, place some of the bread-crumbs on a plate, and lay the cutlet on them; press them; serve both sides the same, and shake off all loose crumbs; have the fat in the pan quite hot, lay them in it; when nicely browned on one side, turn them over, and do the other side the same; take them out, lay them on a cloth, so that no fat remains; serve with any made sauce. For bread-crumb, see No. 452 A.
143. Veal Cutlets should he cut round, about three inches in diameter, and a quarter of an inch thick, done very quickly.
144. These may all he rubbed previous to bread-crumbing, with either onion or eschalot; by rubbing them there will be no perceptible taste, but a pungent flavour; these can be served with various made sauces, and stewed spinach, greens, peas, and anything, according to taste, remembering that that which pleases the eye will prove agreeable to the palate.
145. Pork Chops, semi-fried, without bread-crumbs, are done as the mutton chops; they will require more time, and should be served with a mustard or sharp sauce.
Mutton, veal, pork, and lamb, all look inviting, and are all equally good, when bread-crumbed and semi-fried, as above.
146. 1st Lesson. Sausages and Kidneys, Semi-fried.—Peel and chop fine about four small onions,put one ounceof butter in the frymg-pan, two ounces of bacon cut in slices, and a tablespoonful of chopped onions; fry for five minutes, stirring it with a spoon; «ut half a pound of sausages in half lengthways, place them in the pan, then cut an ox kidney into thin slices, omitting the hard part; put it in the centre of the pan, season with half a teaspoonful of salt and one saltspoonful of pepper; fry gently for five minutes, turning them. Take care they are not done too much, or they will be hard; throw a teaspoonful of flavour over them, add one quartern of water; simmer two minutes; dish with kidneys in the middle and sausages round. Dripping, lard, or oil, may be used instead of butter, and a few small mushrooms is an improvement.
2nd Lesson. Kidneys alone.—Slice thin an ox kidney, put two ounces of butter into a frying-pan; when hot, add two ounces of bacon, cut in thin dice, and the kidney; fry for five minutes, if over a brisk fire; longer, if over a slow fire; add a teaspoonful of flour, salt, and pepper, moisten with half a pint of water, simmer a few minutes, stir round, and serve with or without crisp toasted bread round it: a little lemon is an improvement.
3rd Lesson. Mutton Kidneys, with Ale Sauce.—Cut six kidneys in two, remove the outer skin, cut them into slices; put two ounces of butter into a frying-pan; when very hot, put in the kidneys, and stir continually for about five minutes; sprinkle over a teaspoonful of flour, a little salt and pepper, and, if handy, a little parsley chopped fine; moisten with a little water and four tablespoonfuls of ale; thus it forms a thickish sauce. Lemon is an improvement, or wine in the place of ale, or a little vinegar, if preferred.
147. Calves' Liver, Semi-fried.—Cut the liver a quarter of an inch thick, the bacon the same, mix in a plate a tablespoonful of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and the same of pepper, dip the liver into it; have ready the frying-pan, with sufficient fat or dripping, quite clear, as much as will cover the bottom of the pan a quarter of an inch; when very hot (which try as before directed for fish), put in the liver and bacon; the bacon will be done first, which remove; the liver must be turned in five minutes; when it is done remove it into a dish, and serve.
148. Another Way.—Take away nearly all the fat, then put in the pan a teaspoonful of chopped onions, the same of flour, stir till brown, then add some salt and pepper, a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a small teacupful of water, a little curry powder, if handy; mix well together, and pour over the liver. Calves' Hearts, as well as pig's and sheep's, &c. &c., may be done like liver, cut in slices, with the exception, that either some currant-jelly, port wine, or a little ale or porter, or ketchup, may be added to the sauce; it is also good bread-crumbed.
149. Lambs' Fry is sometimes to be had for a trifle; you can purchase it from about threepence or fourpence per pound; wash it in cold water; for every pound put a quart of water; put them in it for ten minutes to set; take them out, lay them on a cloth; then put in a frying-pan two ounces of butter or dripping, letting it get hot, then dip each piece of the fry in the following mixture, and put in the pan, and fry gently: break an egg, beat it well, add a teaspoonful of flour, which mix smooth, half a wineglass of either milk or water, a little salt and pepper may be put in this delicate batter. When your fry has obtained a nice gold colour, turn it; when done, season with a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of pepper, to every pound of fry. A few chopped onions put in the pan with the meat is very nice, or a few mushrooms.
Pigs' chitlings, done as above, will be found very good, especially if fried with onions; buy them ready cleaned, then before you fry them let them simmer in a saucepan, in salt and water for thirty minutes, or till tender; drain them, and fry as above. Tripe may also be done the same.
FOWLS.
150. —The motive of semi-frying food is to have it done quickly; therefore, to fry a whole fowl, or even half, is useless, as it could be cooked in a different way in the same time; but to semi-fry a fowl with the object of having it quickly placed on the table, in order to satisfy a good, and perhaps fastidious, appetite, it should be done in a similar way to that practised in Egypt some 3000 years since, and of late years for the great Napoleon—that is, cooked in oil.
In France this dish is called "Poulet à la Marengo." It is related that the great conqueror, after having gained that celebrated victory, eat three small chickens at one meal done in this way, and his appetite and taste was so good, and he approved of them so highly that he desired that they might always be served in the same way during the campaign.
151.—The fowl should be divided thus; if just killed it should be plucked and drawn as quick as possible, or cooked whilst still warm; it will then be tender; if it has been long killed, the joints and pieces should be well beaten with a piece of wood, not to break the skin and bones, but to loosen the sinews. The legs should be first removed, then the wings, going close up to the breast; then cut the belly in two; by this there are eight pieces. They should be seasoned with pepper and salt; for want of oil, one ounce of either butter, fat, or dripping should be put in the pan. If a young fowl, it will take from twelve to fifteen minutes; the pieces should be turned several times; when done serve plain, or put into the fat a glass of wine, some vinegar, or ketchup; for want of wine add a little vinegar; give it a boil up till half reduced; season and pour into the dish, and serve. A few fried mushrooms are excellent with it; or six oysters, with their liquor, or tomata sauce, &c.
If the fowl is preferred to be done whole, then split it down the back, truss it the same as for broiling; beat it flat, put two ounces of oil into the pan, lay in the fowl, season it; it must be done gently, and will take half an hour, if young, but of a good size; if rather an old bird, it will take one third more than the above time.
152. Pigeons, whole, should be cut down the back the same as fowl; cut off the head, the pinions, and feet; season and fry with an ounce of oil or fat. They will take ten minutes.
153. Rabbits.—Cut them in pieces, remove all superfluous bones, beat each piece flat, season them with pepper and salt, place the pan on the fire with two ounces of fat, put in it two onions, sliced, and then the rabbit; they will take twenty minutes or more to do, gently; remove the pieces of rabbit; have the liver, heart, and brains chopped up with a little parsley, and fry with the remaining fat; when done pour off part of the fat; add a gill of water, season it; give it a boil, and pour over the rabbit. A little curry may be added, and boiled rice, served separate.
154. Poultry of all kinds, Devilled.—These are best made by poultry previously cooked. The proper way is to do them with the gridiron, but in case the fire is in that state that they cannot be broiled, and the everlasting frying-pan must be made use of, then prepare them as already described for broiling. Place in the pan one ounce only of butter, and fry gently until hot through. A slight improvement may be made in using the frying-pan; it is to rub the bottom with garlic or eschalot before placing the fat in, frying some onions at the same time. A little bacon can also be fried with it.
CURIOUS EFFECTS OF IMAGINATION.
Here, Eloise, I again discuss a subject about which, some little time since, we had an argument; but you will observe that the topic is treated in quite a different manner, and you must use your own discretion whether you will introduce ox liver or not. I can only say that I and three friends dined off it yesterday, and they all declared, it excellent. I assure you I am not jesting, they thought they were eating calves' liver, and praised the way it was cooked.
Later in the day I put on a very long face, and asked one of them, a cousin of mine, if he felt well, as the cook had made a great mistake in preparing the dinner? He, knowing my mania for experiments, turned very pale, and said, "No! No!" "Do not be frightened, for it is nothing very bad; she used ox liver instead of calves'." The poor fellow was greatly relieved, for he thought himself poisoned; but still the idea of having eaten of the food which is generally given to that domesticated and homely animal, pussy, made him uncomfortable all through the evening.
This is the effect of the imagination, as we have sufficient proofs, in China, France, and elsewhere, that many objects which we detest are considered the greatest luxuries.
A curious incident of the force of imagination occurred some years since at a town not a hundred miles from Leicester. A candidate for the borough, as M.P., a noble lord, having been unsuccessful, his supporters proposed giving him a dinner to console him for his Joss; he, however, could not attend, but sent them a raised pie of game, about the size of a small carriage wheel, which was partaken of by his supporters with great gusto. A few days after a letter arrived to the chairman, as if from the noble lord, stating that he was glad they liked the pie, as he had now got his revenge for their having deceived him in the election—that the pie was composed of polecats, dogs, rats, &c. &c. This letter wasshown to the members of the committee; and it soon got noised about, and although four days had elapsed, there was hardly a person that had partaken of it who was not ill. The noble lord having left that part of the country, it was some days before the hoax was found out.
155. 1st Lesson. New Style of Dressing Liver in Frying pan.—I dressed it thus: take about two pounds of ox liver; remove the sinew and veins, cut it into long slices, half an inch thick, put in two ounces of dripping in pan; when hot put in three pieces at a time of liver until set; cut a quarter of a pound of bacon in small dice, fry in fat, cut up the liver in small dice, add it to the bacon, then add a tablespoonful of chopped onions, the same of parsley, the same of flour, a teaspoonful of salt and half of pepper, stir round, and then add half a pint of water, or a little more if the flour is strong, till it forms a nice thickish. sauce; put all into a dish, cover over with bread-crumbs, put a little fat over, and place in the oven or before the fire for twenty minutes; brown it over with a hot shovel, and serve. A few poached eggs put on the top will give it a nice appearance, and render it more nourishing. Curry may be used.
156. Minced Meat.—The remains of any kind of cooked meat will be found very good; the meat having been previously done will only require mincing. Cut in thin slices about one pound of meat, put on a dish, sprinkle over about a teaspoonful of salt, third ditto of pepper, one of flour, mix well, put in your frying-pan, add half a pint of water, and a drop of colouring, if handy, put on the fire, stir when it commences to boil, then place it on the hob, let it simmer ten minutes, and serve.
N.B.—This is very plain, as you see, and can be made in any pan or iron pot, but I place it here only for those who possess a frying-pan.
Yon may now vary this economical dish in twenty different ways; prepare always your meat, flour, salt, and pepper, as above; you may add a teaspoonful of chopped herbs, such as onion, chives, or parsley, or a tablespoonful of sharp pickles, or made sauce, a little cayenne, spices, wine, or vinegar, may also be used, and served on toast if approved of.
157. Minced Veal.— Any remains of roast veal may be quickly dressed to good advantage, as follows, by the aid of the frying-pan:—Cut all the meat and fat off the joint into small dice; calculate the amount of fat you put with the lean, say three ounces for every pound; when cut put a pound of it on a dish, add to it a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, two spoonfuls of flour, and a chopped onion; put in the pan half a pint of water to boil, two teaspoonfuls of colouring; then put the meat in, stir it, let it simmer gently for twenty minutes, and serve on toast; poached eggs on it are very good; or put the mince into a tin pan, bread-crumb over, drop a little butter or dripping over, then put it in the oven, or before the fire to brown. The mince may be made white by using milk instead of water and colouring.
158. New Way of Mincing Meat.—Cut in small dice one pound of either raw beef, mutton, pork, or veal, flesh and fat in proportion; put in the pan two ounces of butter or dripping; when hot, add the meat, stir it occasionally, and season it with two small teaspoonfuls of salt, a little spice, half one of pepper. When the meat is just set, put in a teaspoonful of flour, half a pint of water; let it simmer twenty minutes, or, if tough, a little longer, adding a gill more water, and serve; a little eschalot, chives, or onions, chopped, may be added. If veal, lamb, or pork, the sauce may be kept white, and milk may be used; if beef or mutton, the sauce ought to be brown, and three teaspoonfuls of colouring added; the juice of a lemon, or a drop of vinegar, is very good with it; ox kidneys may be done the same way. This will make a good curry by the addition of half a teaspoonful of that article.
158 A. Simplified way of Sashing all hinds of Cooked Meat.—Cut a pound of meat, except salted meat, previously cooked, into thin slices, put it on a dish, add to it one teaspoonful of flour, one and a half of salt, half a one of pepper, mixing all together well, then put all in the frying-pan, adding half a pint of cold water; set it on the fire; let it remain there until it has simmered ten minutes; take up, and serve.
2nd Lesson. Proceed as above, but vary flavour with either of the following ingredients: use either a teaspoonful of chopped onions, eschalot, parsley, a few mushrooms, pickles, sauce, or ketchup.
The above can be done in either black pot, iron saucepan, or frying-pan.
159. All the above can be made as curries, and served with rice, by first frying one onion, cut up small, and half a large baking-apple, also cut small; then add the meat, give it a fry, mix with half a pint of water, one teaspoonful of good curry powder, pour it over the meat, give it a simmer for ten minutes, and serve with boiled rice separate.
160. Bubble and Squeak.—Any remains of salt beef or pork may be dressed in this old, but good and economical fashion. Cut your meat, when cold, in thin slices, to the weight of about a pound, including, if possible, from two to three ounces of fat; then take one or two Savoy cabbages, according to size, which, when boiled and chopped, ought to weigh about two pounds; cut each cabbage in four, throw a few of the green outside leaves away, as likewise the stalk; put about a gallon of water in an iron saucepan; when boiling add your cabbage, and let it remain about twenty minutes, or until tender; drain them well, and chop them up rather fine; then add three ounces of either butter or dripping in the frying-pan, which put on the fire; when hot put in your slices of meat, which semi-fry of a nice brownish colour, on both sides; take them out, put them on a dish, keep them warm; then put the cabbage in the pan with the fat, add a teaspoonful of salt, the same quantity of pepper; stir round till hot throughout; put on the dish, lay the meat over, and serve; if no cabbage, any green will do, first boiled, drained, chopped, and fried. Boiled carrots and turnips, previously cooked and chopped, may be added to the cabbage.
161. Fritters of Meat, Poultry, Fish, and Fruits.—The following is thirty receipts in one:—Put a pound of the crumb of bread to soak in cold water, take the same quantity of any kind of boiled or roasted meat, a little fat, which chop in dice rather fine, press the water out of the bread; put in the pan two ounces of butter, lard, or dripping, with two teaspoonfuls of chopped onions, fry two minutes, add the bread, stir with a wooden spoon until rather dry, then add the meat, season with a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, if handy; stir till quite hot; then add two eggs, one at a time, mix very quick, and pour on dish to cool.
Then roll it into the shape of small eggs, then in flour, egg them and bread-crumb, fry (as No. 72) a nice yellow colour; serve plain, or with any sharp or any other sauce you fancy.
162. Innumerable are the receipts that can be made in this way; in fact, from everything that is eatable, and at any season of the year,—from the remains of meat, poultry, game, fish, vegetables, using the same amount of seasoning. Bread soaked in milk is better.
163. The same can be done with chopped dried fruits, and preserved fruits, using a quarter of a pound more bread; fry, and sift powdered sugar and cinnamon over. Cream may be used for fruits or curds.
They may also be fried in batter, like fritters, instead of breadcrumbs.
There is no end to what may be done with these receipts. They may be fried, and when cold put between paste, cut into nice pieces of any shape, and baked. They can be ornamented, and made worthy the table of the greatest epicure, if the bread be soaked in cream, and spirits or liquor introduced in them.
164. Tripe, Lyons fashion.—Boil two pounds of tripe; when done, drain it, dry with a cloth, cut it in pieces about an inch square, put in the pan four ounces of butter, four middling-sized onions cut in slices, fry for a few minutes, then add the tripe, stir them every four minutes for about a quarter of an hour, then put in a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, mixed well, and it will be ready for serving.
Vermicelli, boiled in the water that the tripe has been boiled in, makes good soup. Rice or bread is nice done this way. The addition of a teaspoonful of curry, one spoonful of flour, and half a pint of broth or water, will make a good curry with the tripe.
165. A Fried, Toad in the Hole.—Take a steak of the size required, not less in thickness than what I have before stated, and partly fry on both sides; have ready a pint of second-class batter, as No. 470; remove the steak for a minute, add more fat In the pan, put in the batter when it is beginning to become as thick as paste, place the steak in the middle, raise the frying-pan a sufficient height from the fire on a trivet, so as to cook gently; 'turn it over; or put the pan in the oven; when well set it is done; serve on a dish, the bottom uppermost.
165 A. Tripe Sautéd.—Have the tripe already boiled tender; put into the pan two ounces of fat, with two onions in slices; fry them; when brown add the tripe, which must be dry; when they get a little brown add salt, pepper, a pint of second-class batter, No. 462; proceed as above.
The same Curried.—Proceed as above; add one teaspoonful of the curry powder instead of the vinegar.
The same with Pickle.—Proceed as above; adding piccalilly, or gherkins cut small.
166. The Remains of other kinds of Cold Roast Meats may be done in this way, and, when eggs are cheap, poach half-a-dozen, which put on the top.
167. The Remains of Fish, previously cooked, are very good done in this way. A piece of conger eel or ling, about four inches thick, partly boiled in salt water with onions and parsley, and boned, will make a very economical and also a Lenten dish.
168. Veal or Mutton, cut into pieces, about two inches square, and thin, may be fried and added to the batter.
169. Beef Collops, Fried.—Take a piece of steak, part and cut thin into pieces of about two inches square, let it be free from sinews, have the frying-pan well greased, add the pieces of meat, do them quickly, sprinkle salt, pepper, and a little flour over them whilst doing; and when nearly done add any flavour you like, either of curry, pickles tomato, or a little vinegar. Serve very hot.
170. Veal Cutlets for the Aged.—Cut one pound of veal in eight or ten pieces; season with a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of pepper, little chopped parsley; then take each piece separate, and with the hack of the knife heat them well till nearly in a pulp; give them the shape of cutlets with a knife; egg and bread-crumb; heat them nice and smooth, put two ounces of lard in the frying-pan; when rather hot, fry a nice colour; servo plain, or with sharp sauce, No. 411. These may be done, as a general dish, by adding a little fried bacon and chopped onions in the frying-pan. They are extremely tender and full of gravy.
Beef, mutton, and lamb, may be done the same way. Sausage-meat of beef or pork may be here introduced, shaped and fried the same.
The Gridiron and Frying Pan.
Ox cheeks may be bought at present, cut from the bone, and very fresh, at about twopence-halfpenny to threepence per pound, in London. It is the most gelatinous food which the ox produces, and contains a large amount of nourishment, as I have already mentioned to you. The only drawback there is to it is the length of time it requires to cook, and the general way in which it is done, being in many cases prejudicial to its use. Frequently on my visits to the abodes of the poor, while in London last winter, I have often seen this article of food completely spoiled. On one occasion, I asked an old lady bow she cooked it. "Sure enough," said she, " by fire." "But, my dear woman," I inquired, "how long do you cook it?" "Ah!" she replied, "sometimes as long as an hour, and boiling like the very deuce all the time, till the water will not stand it any longer." "And pray," I asked, "what do you do with the water?" "Faith, there is no water left, but only black muck at the bottom of the pot, which I throw away," was her reply.
Therefore I am always of the same opinion, dearest Eloise, as regards our long talked of scheme of opening a national school to teach the poor how to cook their food, and make the most of it. Some of the money spent on our new palace prisons would be much better employed for this purpose, and would ultimately decrease the parish rates.
But I am digressing from the conversation I bad with this old dame. When I found she was so ignorant, I asked her if I should come and teach her how to cook, properly, an ox cheek. "No, faith," said she, " I have no money to throw away, not even enough to buy another." Sanguine as I always am upon my favourite theme, I offered to bring one with me, as a present, the following day, and gave her sixpence to buy some sand to clean her iron pot, which I found done on my arrival the following day; she having also purchased two pennyworth of coals out of the money. I then produced the ox cheek, and put it into the pot with four quarts of cold water, and four teaspoonfuls of salt, and some leaves of celery, which articles were given to her by a neighbouring greengrocer. Her fire was made up, and the pot was placed on it, until boiling, and then removed to the side of it, and skimmed. There I left it, and went round to pay my other visits.
At the end of three hours I returned, and, she having a large basin in the room, I put some crusts of bread in it, and poured the liquid from the pot into it, and the meat I placed on a dish, and sat down with the old dame, serving the soup out into cups with a beer jug, having nothing better, and, to her great surprise, cut the cheek easily with a very bad knife, it being so tender. After tasting it, and finding it very good, she said she would show her neighbours how to do it. I told her that, if she would do so, I would give her more like receipts, when she exclaimed, "Bless you, ma'am, do; I will do them as well as you, now I have seen you do it." In anticipation of sending them to her the next day, I was about to retire, wishing her goodbye. "Lor', ma'am," said she, "you would not go without taking a drop of the 'crature.'" To my astonishment, a small bottle was brought out of her pocket, and offered to me. from its strange smell, I was induced to taste it, and I feel confident, if it had been analyzed by the " Lancet," it would have proved to be real Hue ruin, composed, as it was, of a mixture of vitriol, &c.
This opened to me the secret of the emaciated looks of the thousands of the inhabitants of these back alleys, and I could then account for the remainder of my change out of the sixpence. I, however, sent her the following receipts, of course omitting her favourite seasoning—gin.
Having sent her the receipts, as promised, on reconsideration, it occurred to me that the old lady might not be able to read. I was not mistaken, for on calling upon her, I found six elderly matrons and an old man holding council together, and trying to make out the writing. The latter was just sending for his grandson, who, he said, was a scholar, having been three months at a Sunday-school. My arrival set all to rights, at the same time it frightened three of the council away; but I begged the others to stop, and hear the receipts read, which they accordingly did, afterwards giving several copies away.
115. 1st Lesson.—Rub an ox cheek (middle size, or half a large one) with four teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper; put it into the iron pot, with four quarts of cold water; set it on the fire to boil; remove it then to the side, and simmer gently for three hours after it begins to boil. Skim off the fat, which will do for puddings, and, at the expiration of the time, nearly three quarts of very strong gravy, in addition to the meat properly done and tender, Will be found in the pot. A gill of colouring is an improvement to the look of the broth. A head of celery, or some leaves of it, or onions, &c., may be added in boiling. Put the head on a dish, and serve the soup separately, with bread in it.
116. 2nd Lesson.—Or any small quantity of mixed vegetables may be used. They should all be cut into dice, and not peeled, but well cleaned, with the exception of the dried skin of the onion. One pound of rice, at the cost of twopence-halfpenny, when added, is a great improvement; or half-a-pint of split peas, or barley, or a pint of white haricot beans, or a pint of Indian meal soaked the over-night, or a little flour to make the gravy or broth thick. It may be varied in several ways; but the chief point is, when once boiled, simmer slowly till tender, which you may ascertain by piercing it with a fork; if it sticks to it, it is not sufficiently done. Sheep and lamb's head may be done the same way, but will only take one quarter of the time; season accordingly.
This receipt is applicable to all kinds of hard meat.
Your favourite utensil, the frying-pan, Eloise, is, without doubt, the most useful of all kitchen implements, and like a good-natured servant, is often imposed upon, and obliged to do all the work, while its companion, the gridiron, is quietly reposing in the chimney corner.
The following scene was witnessed by those two faithful servants, the other afternoon, in a domestic establishment, where the sly dog of a gridiron often laughs between its bars at the overworked frying-pan.
The husband, who is employed by a railway contractor, and a man who is what the world calls middling well off, and who has risen by his own exertions and abilities from a more humble position, arrives home, and asks his wife what he can have for dinner, the hour of her dinner, and that of the children, having long past. "What would you like to have, my dear?" was her question. "Anything yon have." "Let's see! why—we have nothing, but I can get you a mutton chop, or steak." "Can I have nothing else; I am tired of chops and steaks." "Why, my dear, what can be better than a chop or a steak?" "Well, let me have a steak." "You had that yesterday, my dear: now, let me get you a chop. I always make it my duty to study your comfort; and as I have been reading, not long since, a medical work on diseases of the skin, written by Dr. Erasmus Wilson, in which he says that nothing is so wholesome as a change of food, since which time I have made a point of varying our bill of fare, as they call it in that useful work." "Very well, send for two chops." In about twenty minutes the servant returns, saying she could get no chops, but has got a nice piece of steak. "Very well. That will do as well, will it not, my dear?" to her husband, who is reading a periodical." "Yes; but how long will you keep me here before it is done?" "Not a minute, my love. Now, Jane, do that well on the gridiron." Jane descends, but quickly returns, saying, "Please, ma'am, the fire is not fit for broiling." "Well, fry it," is her answer. The husband, who hears it, exclaims, "Drat the frying-pan, It is always so greasy." "Then, my dear, how would you like to have it." "Not at all," was his reply, throwing down the paper, and exclaiming; "Bother the place, there is no getting any victuals properly cooked here. I must go to the cook-shop and have it." He seizes his hat, and slamming the door, makes his exit in a passion.
The mistress blames Jane, and begins to beat the child for having upset the milk on the toast. Jane kicks the cat, and gives warning. The night comes. There are no candles in the house. Jane is sent out for them, hut does not return in proper time. The husband arrives, and finds all in darkness. They quarrel, and swear they must separate in order to "live comfortably together." Jane comes home, and is ordered to pack up her boxes, in order to be off the first tiling in the morning, by which time, however, their tempers have had time to cool, and Jane is accordingly reinstated in her former position.
Moral (not on fable, but on truth): A man disappointed in something to eat, consoles himself with something to drink. If he has no stimulus in wholesome food, he will have it in pernicious spirit. He is quarrelsome, scolds his wife, beats his children, frequents the dram-shop, and becomes what is called a bad husband. It is not altogether his fault, the dinner was not eatable, and he must have something to support him, which he foolishly finds in spirits; and thus, by the want of attention on the part of the wife, is made what he is. In no country in the world do the annals of police courts show such scenes as arc daily noticed in the public journals of London, which the increase of punishment by a modern law has not yet succeeded In putting down.
Before proceeding with the following receipt, it is advisable to read the introduction of semi-fried steaks, and steaks in pan, page 55, as it would to tautology to repeat it here.
Broiled Steaks and Sump Steak.—Previous to cooking a steak, nurse your fire; it will well repay your trouble, and also remember, in the morning, that you are obliged to dine that very identical day, and no doubt you decide upon having a steak for dinner, which is a very good thing, when the meat is good and well cooked, also fix the hour you intend to dine, and half an hour previous stir up the fire, clear away the ashes, stir all dead cinders from the bottom, and in a few minutes you will have a clear fire, fit for the use of the gridiron; and every article you may submit to that process of cookery stands a chance of being well done. I herewith forward you the following lesson:—
117. First Lesson.—For first quality of steak, the meat ought to be well hung, and if cut nicely off the rump of a Scotch beast will weigh from a pound and a quarter to a pound and a half, that is, being three-quarters of an inch thick; if it should be cut rather thicker in one part than another, beat it even with a chopper; if of the above thickness, it should be placed about five inches above the fire; if thicker, six inches; taking it as an invariable rule, that the thicker the steak, the further in proportion it must be from the fire. The extra piece of fat which accompanies it should be put on a little after the steak, or it will be too much done. Whilst doing, throw over some pepper and salt, and turn it the moment the fat begins to drop: the motive of constantly turning the steak is to keep the gravy in. Never put a fork into it to turn it, but use a pair of tongs; but if you have not any, place the fork in the fat and turn it. When the steak is done, it will feel firm under the pressure of the finger.
Second Lesson.—Sometimes it is impossible to broil over the fire, but easy to use a double gridiron, to broil in front. In such cases, the gridiron should never be opened until the steak is done; then the gravy will not be pressed out. If carefully attended to, this plan is as good as the other, but otherwise, it spoils the best of meat.
The time required for a nice tender rump steak, three-quarters of an inch thick, weighing a pound and a quarter, over or before a nice clear fire, is from twelve to fifteen minutes. If turned four times in that time, the gravy will remain in it, and if served immediately, on a hot dish (not too hot, to dry up the gravy), it will eat tender and juicy, and be fit for a member of the Rump Steak Club.
Third Lesson.—Some persons put a bit of butter on the dish, others ketchup, others sauces of various kinds; all these should be left to the party who partakes of it; it is the duty of the cook to send it up plainly, but properly seasoned with salt and pepper, unless otherwise ordered. Every pound of steak will require one and a half teaspoonfuls of salt, and a half of pepper.
But if required flavoured and seasoned to satisfy a blasé appetite, then the following should be adopted.
118. Rump Steak with Eschalot.—Chop up one eschalot very fine, mix it with a teaspoonful of salt and half of pepper, rub the steak all over with it, and press it in with a knife; place it over the fire as the above, cook and serve. If not required so strong, rub only the gridiron and the dish with eschalot.*
Rump Steak with Eschalot Butter.—Cut up two eschalots very fine, and mix it with half an ounce of butter, which spread over the under part of the steak when dishing up.
Rump Steak with Maitre d'Hôtel Butter.—When your steak is just done, rub it over with an ounce of prepared butter as No. 426.
Devilled Steak.—Mix in a plate two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of cayenne, two of made mustard; place the steak on the fire; after the first turn spread half of the mixture on it, and dredge it with flour; do the same with the other side. Broil as above.
Curry Powder, mixed with mustard, or curry paste alone, can he rubbed over the same way.
119. Wakefield Steak.—Cut a steak one inch thick, score it on each side, crossways. Put into a tart dish two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, one of sugar, a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon, a tablespoonful of Soyer's relish, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar; put the steak in it for six hours; turn it now and then. This seasoning is called marinade. Previous to broiling, dredge it lightly with some flour, while doing, and serve with butter in very small pieces under the steak. At Wakefield they sometimes use the Warncliffe sauce.
Some raw potatoes cut into very thin slices, and nicely fried, served round it, renders it a dish fit for the greatest epicure. This dish proves that the inhabitants of Wakefield have not lost the culinary reputation they formerly possessed, and which they first acquired some four hundred years since, when the French queen and her suite came to reside there, and allowed them to quarter the fleur-de-lis in the arms of the town. Beef skirt and other pieces may be all done in the same way, allowing time to cook according to the quality and hardness of the pieces you dress.
120. Mutton Chops.*—These may all be cooked and flavoured like the steaks, but in many cases garlic is used instead of eschalot, when preferred. Peel a clove of garlick, put it on the end of a fork, and rub both sides of the chop lightly with it. Chopped mushrooms are very good with broiled chops. Any fleshy part of the sheep may be broiled the same way.
121. Mutton Chop.—In my opinion, two chops out of a fine South Down, well hung, cut three quarters of an inch thick, leaving half an inch of fat round them, and broiled over a clear fire for ten minutes, turned four times, sprinkled with salt and pepper, served on a hot plate, one at a time, wi'h a nice mealy potato, is as good, as wholesome, and nutritious a dinner as can be partaken of. One and a half teaspoonful of salt and a half of pepper to a pound of chops, is a good seasoning.
122. Plain Veal Chops are broiled as above. A veal chop, nicely cut from the leg, ought to weigh one pound. I am ot opinion that to broil a veal chop by the direct action of the fire is an act of Vandalism. Of course, if there is no time to do it other ways, it must be done so; but that so delicate a kind of food should be subject to such fierce treatment in order to spoil it, is what I do not approve of. It ought to be wrapped up in a sheet of buttered paper, with pepper and salt on it. The sheet of paper ought to be large, thick foolscap; the chop laid on one half, the other brought over, and the edges folded over so that no gravy escapes. They should be placed eight inches above the fire, and broiled for at least twenty minutes, and served in the paper very hot. A little chopped mushroom or parsley may be placed in the paper, and improves the flavour.
123. Veal Cutlet.—A pound of veal not more than half an inch thick, from the fillet, will make three cutlets, and should be broiled with some bacon. The same objection exists with this as the former; but both veal and bacon wrapped up in paper, and broiled as above, is very excellent; a little chopped chives, eschalots, or onions, may be added.
124. Pork Chops.—These should be cut not quite so thick as mutton, and the skin left on. They will take one third longer to do. Well rubbed with pepper and salt, and an onion, previous to broiling, is an improvement.
These can be served with any sauce, as apple, tomata, horseradish, mustard, sage and onion, &c. &c.
125. Calves' Heart should be cut lengthways, and the pieces not thicker than half an inch; broil with a piece of fat, or bacon, for ten minutes: serve with a little currant jelly and butter in the dish, under the pieces of heart.
It is also excellent (see No. 119) marinaded for a few hours, and the following may be done any way like steak.
Ox, pig's, lamb, and sheep's heart, may be done, like it.
Also the livers of the above, cut the same thickness, and broiled with some bacon, a little melted butter with ketchup in it, is a good sauce for broiled heart and liver. Observe, Eloise, that I shall be obliged to send you many similar receipts to these for frying-pan, but the flavour will be very different.
126. Lamb Chops should be cut not more than half an inch thick, and broiled before the fire very close and quick; they will take from eight to ten minutes. Throw some pepper and salt over, and serve very hot, with fried parsley round them, if handy. Lamb chops might be dressed in paper, the same as veal.
127. Broiled Ham.—A slice of ham a quarter of an inch thick will take seven or eight minutes, over a sharp fire, turning it often.
Bacon about the same.
128. Sausages should be placed high above a slow fire, and done slowly: they will take ten minutes; beef sausages, about eight minutes; prick them first with a fork, or they will burst.
129. Black Puddings.—These are often partaken of cold, after having been boiled, but they are best after broiling: they should be at least eight inches above the fire, and the skins pricked, and will take fifteen minutes doing, turning several times.
130. Cold Meat Broiled.—The remains of cold meat cut into slices a quarter of an inch thick; season with salt and pepper; when hot through, rub with a little butter, turn it often, and serve with a little ketchup in the dish.
This may be varied with any sauce, or chopped herbs.
131. Broiled Bones.—When these have a little meat on them, they should be rubbed over with salt and pepper, and a little butter, broiled some distance above or before the fire, that they may get gradually warm, and should be served very hot, and rather brown.
Remains of poultry, game, &c., should be done the same.
132. Devilled Bone.—The remains of the rib of a sirloin of beef, or the blade-bone of a shoulder of mutton, the legs of fowls, turkeys, &c., should be slightly cut all round with a knife, and well rubbed with cayenne and salt, and a teaspoonful of Chili vinegar, or ketchup, or Relish, and broiled gently until hot through and brown. Serve very hot. 133. Broiled and Devilled Toast.—Toast a round of bread, cut a quarter of an inch thick; mix in a plate one ounce of butter, half a teaspoonful of cayenne, one teaspoonful of mustard, one teaspoonful of Relish, or Sauce; spread it over the toast, and serve very hot. Broiled kidneys or sausages may be served on it.
134. Broiled Kidneys.—Sheep's kidneys should be cut in the middle, so as nearly to divide them, leaving the fat in the middle; run a skewer through them, that they may remain open; broil gently; five minutes for a common size is sufficient. Season with salt and pepper; rub apiece of butter over, and serve. They can be served on toast, or with any sauce.
Lamb's, pig's, calves', and ox kidneys, may be done the same way, but the two latter will take much longer, and should be better done. You may also egg and bread-crumb them.
135. Broiled Fowls, Pigeons, &c.—These, if whole, should be cut in down the back, after being drawn and well skewered to keep them so, or beaten fiat with the chopper. Season well with pepper and salt; well grease a double gridiron, and place them a sufficient distance from a moderate fire; turn often. A fowl, if small, will take from twenty-five to thirty minutes; if large, three quarters of an hour; pigeons about ten minutes. Serve either plain, or with any sauce that is liked. They may be egged and bread crumbed.
FRYING-PAN.—INTRODUCTION.
This useful utensil, which is so much in vogue in all parts of the world, and even for other purposes besides cookery—for I have before me now a letter, written, at the Ovens' diggings, on the back of a frying-pan, for want of a table; but in your letter you suggest the necessity of paving particular attention to it, as it is the utensil most in vogue in a bachelor's residence. I cannot but admire your constant devotion to the bachelors: you are always in fear that this unsociable class of individuals should be uncomfortable. For my part, I do not pity them, and would not give myself the slightest trouble to comfort them, especially after they have passed the first thirty springs of their life. Let them get married, and enjoy the troubles, pleasures, and comforts of matrimony, and have a wife to manage their home, and attend to more manly pursuits than cooking their supper when they get home at night, because the old housekeeper has gone to bed; or lighting the fire when they get up in the morning, because the old dame has a slight touch of lumbago; and should he require something substantial for his breakfast, and want that utensil of all work, the frying-pan, finds it all dirt and fishy, not having been cleaned since he last dined at home.
No, my dear Eloise, I assure you 1 do not feel at all inclined to add to their comforts, though you may do what you like with the following receipts, which are equally as applicable to them, as to the humble abode of the married fraternity.
You will also find, in these receipts, that the usual complaint of food being greasy by frying, is totally remedied, by sautéing the meat in a small quantity of fat, butter, or oil, which has attained a proper degree of heat, instead of placing it in cold fat and letting it soak while melting.
I will, in as few words as possible, having my frying-pan in one hand and a rough cloth in the other, with which to wipe it (considering that cleanliness is the first lesson in cookery), initiate you in the art of producing an innumerable number of dishes, which can be made with it, quickly, economically, relishing, and wholesome. But I must first tell you, that the word fry, in the English language, is a mistake; according to the mode in which all objects are cooked which are called fried, it would answer to the French word sauté, or the old English term frizzle; but to fry any object, it should be immersed in very hot fat, oil, or butter, as I have carefully detailed to you in our "Modern Housewife." To frizzle, sauté", or, as I will now designate it, semi-fry, is to place into the pan any oleaginous substance, so that, when melted, it shall cover the bottom of the pan by about two lines; and, when hot, the article to be cooked shall be placed therein. To do it to perfection requires a little attention, so that the pan shall never get too hot. It should be perfectly clean— a great deal depends on this.
I prefer the pan, for many objects, over the gridiron; that is, if the pan is properly used. As regards economy, it is preferable, securing all the fat and gravy, which is often lost when the gridiron is used.
All the following receipts can be done with this simple batterie de cuisine, equally as well in the cottage as in the palace, or in the bachelor's chamber as in the rooms of the poor.
136. 1st Lesson. To Semi-fry Steak.—Having procured a steak about three quarters of an inch thick, and weighing about one pound, and two ounces of fat, place the pan on the fire, with one ounce of butter or fat; let it remain until the fat is melted, and rather hot; take hold of the steak at one end by a fork, and dip it in the pan, so that one side is covered with fat; then turn the other side in it, and let it remain for two or three minutes, according to the heat of the fire; then turn it: it will take about ten or twelve minutes, and require to be turned on each side three times, taking care that the pan is not too hot, 05 it will burn the gravy, and perhaps the meat, and thus lose all the nutriment; in fact, the pan should never be left, but carefully watched; on this depends the advantages of this style and mode of cookery. If the object is not turned often, it will be noticed that the gravy will come out on the upper surface of the meat, which, when turning over, will go into the pan and be lost, instead of remaining in the meat. Season with a teaspoonful of salt and a quarter of pepper; then feel with the finger that it is done, remove it with a fork, inserted in the fat, and serve very hot.
So much for the first lesson, the details of which must be learnt, as it will then simplify every other receipt.
137. 2nd Lesson.—Remember that the thickness is never to exceed one inch, nor be less than half an inch, and to be as near as possible the same thickness all over. A good housewife will object to one cut in any other way; but if it cannot be avoided, press it out with the blade of the knife, to give it the proper thickness. When done, wipe the pan clean; and place it on a hook against the wall, with the inside of the pan nearest the wall, to prevent the dust getting in.
Now, dear Eloise, you will perhaps say that the foregoing lessons are too long for so simple a thing as a steak, as everybody think themselves capable of cooking it without tuition, but having now given these directions, I hope those who fancy they can cook without learning will know better for the future, and pay a little attention to so important a subject.
138.—The above lesson may be varied by adding to the pan, with the seasoning, a few chopped onions, or eschalots, parsley, mushrooms.pickles, semi-fried at the same time or after.and poured over the steak; or when the steak is dished up, a little butter, or chopped parsley and butter, or two spoonfuls of either Relish, Harvey's, or any other good sauce that may be handy. Pour the fat of the steak into a basin for future use. Some fried potatoes may be served with it, or the following additions made: after the steak is done, slice a quarter of a pound of onions to each pound of steak, and a little more fat; fry quickly, and when brown place round the steak; pour the gravy over.
Some mushrooms, if small, whole, if large, sliced, put in the Jan and fried, are excellent.
Two tablespoonfuls of mixed pickle, put into the pan after the steak is removed, fried a little, then add two tablespoonfuls of the liquor and two of water; when on the point of boiling pour over the steak. The same may be done with pickled walnuts and gherkins, or two ounces of tavern-keepers' butter rubbed over, (see No. 427,) or half a pint of oyster sauce, or mussel sauce, or horseradish sauce; or a little flour dredged over the steak, and a little water added in the pan, when the steak is done, and a little colouring or ketchup, and then poured over the steak.
These receipts can be continued and multiplied to any extent, entirely depending on the taste of the cook.
A steak may first be dipped in flour, and well shook; then, when you have semi-fried your meat, it will have acquired a nice brown; this may also be applied to veal cutlets, pork and mutton chops, poultry and game. 139. Another Way.—When your steak is partly done, dredge both sides over with a spoonful of flour, dish up, pour out the fat, put a gill of water in the pan; let it simmer a few minutes,—it will make a nice thick sauce.
139A. Beefsteak, with Semi-fried Potatoes.—Rub and semi-fry your steak, adding thin slices of potatoes, letting them lie in the pan while the steak is doing; turn them as often as you do the steak, serve round with gravy, to make which pour half a gill of water in the pan under the steak—the moisture of the potatoes will cause some of the gravy to come out of the meat, but it will be found very good.
140. A Series of Lessons how to Semi-fry Chops of all kinds. Lesson 1.—First select your mutton. Let it not be too fat; if it is, cut some off. Always observe that a mutton chop should be one third fat, and of the same thickness throughout. Have them cut from the loin, let them be about an inch in thickness. Very little attention will accomplish this important point; for I feel convinced, Eloise, that an ill-cut chop never can be but ill-cooked; you can always equalize them by beating them out with a chopper. Have your frying-pan very clean; put in an ounce of butter, or, if you like, dripping or lard; let it get rather hot. As soon as it begins to smoke, take your chop with a fork, by the small end, and dip it in the fat for half a minute; then turn it, let it semi-fry for about three minutes, season the uppermost side with a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, and half that quantity of pepper; then turn it, and serve the other side the same way. You may then turn it several times while doing, as that equalizes the cooking, as well as carbonizes the meat. Ten minutes will cook it to perfection, and less, if thinner.
Second Lesson.—If the above directions are properly attended to, the chop will present the appearance of a rich brown colour, and the fat a gold colour, cutting extremely white and light, while the meat will look darkish, and give a strong gravy which will almost stick to the knife, instead of running on the plate and partaking of a watery red colour, as is the case when a chop is slowly and badly cooked. This last sort of gravy is called by some people rich, which I am sure,, my dear, you will find to be a great mistake; though the badly-cooked chop will probably weigh more than the other, from not having lost so much of its substance, yet it will not possess half the nutriment and flavour of a chop well done. The above quantity of seasoning will do for a chop weighing about a quarter of a pound, and would, I may safely say, suit the palate of fifteen persons out of twenty; therefore I hope it will diminish the load of salt and pepper every Englishman piles on his plate, previous to tasting the article of food placed before him. The cook ought to season for the guest, not the guest for the cook.
141. Third Lesson.—When you can thoroughly cook a chop according to the first lesson, it materially simplifies the second, which is thus done:—Get a chop and cook it as above, but to vary the flavour, when half cooked, sprinkle over it a little chopped chives, or eschalots, or onions, spice, or aromatic herbs; or when done, rub both sides of the chop lightly with a clove of peeled garlic, or a piece of fresh or maitre d'hôtel butter. These remarks are applicable to all kinds of semi-fried meat.
The Fourth Lesson is still more simplified, my dear Eloise, namely, cook your chop plainly, as before directed, eat it yourself, and let me know how you relished it.
Chops from the neck, called cutlets, are done in this manner. Pork, veal, and ham chops require the same style of seasoning and cooking. A slow fire is preferable to a sharp one for the above mentioned chops, which, when semi-fried, will take a gold colour, as above-mentioned. You may always ascertain when the chop is done by pressing your finger on the thick part; if the flesh is firm and well set on both sides, it is done and ready to serve. Half a pint of chopped pickled red cabbage put in the pan after the chop is done and warmed through will be found very relishing, especially for pork cutlets.
142. Mutton Cutlets.—The chop from the neck is the best to semi-fry; they should be nicely cut, and the bone at the thick part removed, as it prevents the meat from doing; then beat up the yolk and white of an egg, with a pinch of salt; have ready some bread-crumbs, made from stale bread, and sifted, (this may always be kept ready in a canister); beat out the cutlets with a small chopper, dip them or rub them with a brush with the egg, place some of the bread-crumbs on a plate, and lay the cutlet on them; press them; serve both sides the same, and shake off all loose crumbs; have the fat in the pan quite hot, lay them in it; when nicely browned on one side, turn them over, and do the other side the same; take them out, lay them on a cloth, so that no fat remains; serve with any made sauce. For bread-crumb, see No. 452 A.
143. Veal Cutlets should he cut round, about three inches in diameter, and a quarter of an inch thick, done very quickly.
144. These may all he rubbed previous to bread-crumbing, with either onion or eschalot; by rubbing them there will be no perceptible taste, but a pungent flavour; these can be served with various made sauces, and stewed spinach, greens, peas, and anything, according to taste, remembering that that which pleases the eye will prove agreeable to the palate.
145. Pork Chops, semi-fried, without bread-crumbs, are done as the mutton chops; they will require more time, and should be served with a mustard or sharp sauce.
Mutton, veal, pork, and lamb, all look inviting, and are all equally good, when bread-crumbed and semi-fried, as above.
146. 1st Lesson. Sausages and Kidneys, Semi-fried.—Peel and chop fine about four small onions,put one ounceof butter in the frymg-pan, two ounces of bacon cut in slices, and a tablespoonful of chopped onions; fry for five minutes, stirring it with a spoon; «ut half a pound of sausages in half lengthways, place them in the pan, then cut an ox kidney into thin slices, omitting the hard part; put it in the centre of the pan, season with half a teaspoonful of salt and one saltspoonful of pepper; fry gently for five minutes, turning them. Take care they are not done too much, or they will be hard; throw a teaspoonful of flavour over them, add one quartern of water; simmer two minutes; dish with kidneys in the middle and sausages round. Dripping, lard, or oil, may be used instead of butter, and a few small mushrooms is an improvement.
2nd Lesson. Kidneys alone.—Slice thin an ox kidney, put two ounces of butter into a frying-pan; when hot, add two ounces of bacon, cut in thin dice, and the kidney; fry for five minutes, if over a brisk fire; longer, if over a slow fire; add a teaspoonful of flour, salt, and pepper, moisten with half a pint of water, simmer a few minutes, stir round, and serve with or without crisp toasted bread round it: a little lemon is an improvement.
3rd Lesson. Mutton Kidneys, with Ale Sauce.—Cut six kidneys in two, remove the outer skin, cut them into slices; put two ounces of butter into a frying-pan; when very hot, put in the kidneys, and stir continually for about five minutes; sprinkle over a teaspoonful of flour, a little salt and pepper, and, if handy, a little parsley chopped fine; moisten with a little water and four tablespoonfuls of ale; thus it forms a thickish sauce. Lemon is an improvement, or wine in the place of ale, or a little vinegar, if preferred.
147. Calves' Liver, Semi-fried.—Cut the liver a quarter of an inch thick, the bacon the same, mix in a plate a tablespoonful of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and the same of pepper, dip the liver into it; have ready the frying-pan, with sufficient fat or dripping, quite clear, as much as will cover the bottom of the pan a quarter of an inch; when very hot (which try as before directed for fish), put in the liver and bacon; the bacon will be done first, which remove; the liver must be turned in five minutes; when it is done remove it into a dish, and serve.
148. Another Way.—Take away nearly all the fat, then put in the pan a teaspoonful of chopped onions, the same of flour, stir till brown, then add some salt and pepper, a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a small teacupful of water, a little curry powder, if handy; mix well together, and pour over the liver. Calves' Hearts, as well as pig's and sheep's, &c. &c., may be done like liver, cut in slices, with the exception, that either some currant-jelly, port wine, or a little ale or porter, or ketchup, may be added to the sauce; it is also good bread-crumbed.
149. Lambs' Fry is sometimes to be had for a trifle; you can purchase it from about threepence or fourpence per pound; wash it in cold water; for every pound put a quart of water; put them in it for ten minutes to set; take them out, lay them on a cloth; then put in a frying-pan two ounces of butter or dripping, letting it get hot, then dip each piece of the fry in the following mixture, and put in the pan, and fry gently: break an egg, beat it well, add a teaspoonful of flour, which mix smooth, half a wineglass of either milk or water, a little salt and pepper may be put in this delicate batter. When your fry has obtained a nice gold colour, turn it; when done, season with a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of pepper, to every pound of fry. A few chopped onions put in the pan with the meat is very nice, or a few mushrooms.
Pigs' chitlings, done as above, will be found very good, especially if fried with onions; buy them ready cleaned, then before you fry them let them simmer in a saucepan, in salt and water for thirty minutes, or till tender; drain them, and fry as above. Tripe may also be done the same.
150. —The motive of semi-frying food is to have it done quickly; therefore, to fry a whole fowl, or even half, is useless, as it could be cooked in a different way in the same time; but to semi-fry a fowl with the object of having it quickly placed on the table, in order to satisfy a good, and perhaps fastidious, appetite, it should be done in a similar way to that practised in Egypt some 3000 years since, and of late years for the great Napoleon—that is, cooked in oil.
In France this dish is called "Poulet à la Marengo." It is related that the great conqueror, after having gained that celebrated victory, eat three small chickens at one meal done in this way, and his appetite and taste was so good, and he approved of them so highly that he desired that they might always be served in the same way during the campaign.
151.—The fowl should be divided thus; if just killed it should be plucked and drawn as quick as possible, or cooked whilst still warm; it will then be tender; if it has been long killed, the joints and pieces should be well beaten with a piece of wood, not to break the skin and bones, but to loosen the sinews. The legs should be first removed, then the wings, going close up to the breast; then cut the belly in two; by this there are eight pieces. They should be seasoned with pepper and salt; for want of oil, one ounce of either butter, fat, or dripping should be put in the pan. If a young fowl, it will take from twelve to fifteen minutes; the pieces should be turned several times; when done serve plain, or put into the fat a glass of wine, some vinegar, or ketchup; for want of wine add a little vinegar; give it a boil up till half reduced; season and pour into the dish, and serve. A few fried mushrooms are excellent with it; or six oysters, with their liquor, or tomata sauce, &c.
If the fowl is preferred to be done whole, then split it down the back, truss it the same as for broiling; beat it flat, put two ounces of oil into the pan, lay in the fowl, season it; it must be done gently, and will take half an hour, if young, but of a good size; if rather an old bird, it will take one third more than the above time.
152. Pigeons, whole, should be cut down the back the same as fowl; cut off the head, the pinions, and feet; season and fry with an ounce of oil or fat. They will take ten minutes.
153. Rabbits.—Cut them in pieces, remove all superfluous bones, beat each piece flat, season them with pepper and salt, place the pan on the fire with two ounces of fat, put in it two onions, sliced, and then the rabbit; they will take twenty minutes or more to do, gently; remove the pieces of rabbit; have the liver, heart, and brains chopped up with a little parsley, and fry with the remaining fat; when done pour off part of the fat; add a gill of water, season it; give it a boil, and pour over the rabbit. A little curry may be added, and boiled rice, served separate.
154. Poultry of all kinds, Devilled.—These are best made by poultry previously cooked. The proper way is to do them with the gridiron, but in case the fire is in that state that they cannot be broiled, and the everlasting frying-pan must be made use of, then prepare them as already described for broiling. Place in the pan one ounce only of butter, and fry gently until hot through. A slight improvement may be made in using the frying-pan; it is to rub the bottom with garlic or eschalot before placing the fat in, frying some onions at the same time. A little bacon can also be fried with it.
Here, Eloise, I again discuss a subject about which, some little time since, we had an argument; but you will observe that the topic is treated in quite a different manner, and you must use your own discretion whether you will introduce ox liver or not. I can only say that I and three friends dined off it yesterday, and they all declared, it excellent. I assure you I am not jesting, they thought they were eating calves' liver, and praised the way it was cooked.
Later in the day I put on a very long face, and asked one of them, a cousin of mine, if he felt well, as the cook had made a great mistake in preparing the dinner? He, knowing my mania for experiments, turned very pale, and said, "No! No!" "Do not be frightened, for it is nothing very bad; she used ox liver instead of calves'." The poor fellow was greatly relieved, for he thought himself poisoned; but still the idea of having eaten of the food which is generally given to that domesticated and homely animal, pussy, made him uncomfortable all through the evening.
This is the effect of the imagination, as we have sufficient proofs, in China, France, and elsewhere, that many objects which we detest are considered the greatest luxuries.
A curious incident of the force of imagination occurred some years since at a town not a hundred miles from Leicester. A candidate for the borough, as M.P., a noble lord, having been unsuccessful, his supporters proposed giving him a dinner to console him for his Joss; he, however, could not attend, but sent them a raised pie of game, about the size of a small carriage wheel, which was partaken of by his supporters with great gusto. A few days after a letter arrived to the chairman, as if from the noble lord, stating that he was glad they liked the pie, as he had now got his revenge for their having deceived him in the election—that the pie was composed of polecats, dogs, rats, &c. &c. This letter wasshown to the members of the committee; and it soon got noised about, and although four days had elapsed, there was hardly a person that had partaken of it who was not ill. The noble lord having left that part of the country, it was some days before the hoax was found out.
155. 1st Lesson. New Style of Dressing Liver in Frying pan.—I dressed it thus: take about two pounds of ox liver; remove the sinew and veins, cut it into long slices, half an inch thick, put in two ounces of dripping in pan; when hot put in three pieces at a time of liver until set; cut a quarter of a pound of bacon in small dice, fry in fat, cut up the liver in small dice, add it to the bacon, then add a tablespoonful of chopped onions, the same of parsley, the same of flour, a teaspoonful of salt and half of pepper, stir round, and then add half a pint of water, or a little more if the flour is strong, till it forms a nice thickish. sauce; put all into a dish, cover over with bread-crumbs, put a little fat over, and place in the oven or before the fire for twenty minutes; brown it over with a hot shovel, and serve. A few poached eggs put on the top will give it a nice appearance, and render it more nourishing. Curry may be used.
156. Minced Meat.—The remains of any kind of cooked meat will be found very good; the meat having been previously done will only require mincing. Cut in thin slices about one pound of meat, put on a dish, sprinkle over about a teaspoonful of salt, third ditto of pepper, one of flour, mix well, put in your frying-pan, add half a pint of water, and a drop of colouring, if handy, put on the fire, stir when it commences to boil, then place it on the hob, let it simmer ten minutes, and serve.
N.B.—This is very plain, as you see, and can be made in any pan or iron pot, but I place it here only for those who possess a frying-pan.
Yon may now vary this economical dish in twenty different ways; prepare always your meat, flour, salt, and pepper, as above; you may add a teaspoonful of chopped herbs, such as onion, chives, or parsley, or a tablespoonful of sharp pickles, or made sauce, a little cayenne, spices, wine, or vinegar, may also be used, and served on toast if approved of.
157. Minced Veal.— Any remains of roast veal may be quickly dressed to good advantage, as follows, by the aid of the frying-pan:—Cut all the meat and fat off the joint into small dice; calculate the amount of fat you put with the lean, say three ounces for every pound; when cut put a pound of it on a dish, add to it a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, two spoonfuls of flour, and a chopped onion; put in the pan half a pint of water to boil, two teaspoonfuls of colouring; then put the meat in, stir it, let it simmer gently for twenty minutes, and serve on toast; poached eggs on it are very good; or put the mince into a tin pan, bread-crumb over, drop a little butter or dripping over, then put it in the oven, or before the fire to brown. The mince may be made white by using milk instead of water and colouring.
158. New Way of Mincing Meat.—Cut in small dice one pound of either raw beef, mutton, pork, or veal, flesh and fat in proportion; put in the pan two ounces of butter or dripping; when hot, add the meat, stir it occasionally, and season it with two small teaspoonfuls of salt, a little spice, half one of pepper. When the meat is just set, put in a teaspoonful of flour, half a pint of water; let it simmer twenty minutes, or, if tough, a little longer, adding a gill more water, and serve; a little eschalot, chives, or onions, chopped, may be added. If veal, lamb, or pork, the sauce may be kept white, and milk may be used; if beef or mutton, the sauce ought to be brown, and three teaspoonfuls of colouring added; the juice of a lemon, or a drop of vinegar, is very good with it; ox kidneys may be done the same way. This will make a good curry by the addition of half a teaspoonful of that article.
158 A. Simplified way of Sashing all hinds of Cooked Meat.—Cut a pound of meat, except salted meat, previously cooked, into thin slices, put it on a dish, add to it one teaspoonful of flour, one and a half of salt, half a one of pepper, mixing all together well, then put all in the frying-pan, adding half a pint of cold water; set it on the fire; let it remain there until it has simmered ten minutes; take up, and serve.
2nd Lesson. Proceed as above, but vary flavour with either of the following ingredients: use either a teaspoonful of chopped onions, eschalot, parsley, a few mushrooms, pickles, sauce, or ketchup.
The above can be done in either black pot, iron saucepan, or frying-pan.
159. All the above can be made as curries, and served with rice, by first frying one onion, cut up small, and half a large baking-apple, also cut small; then add the meat, give it a fry, mix with half a pint of water, one teaspoonful of good curry powder, pour it over the meat, give it a simmer for ten minutes, and serve with boiled rice separate.
160. Bubble and Squeak.—Any remains of salt beef or pork may be dressed in this old, but good and economical fashion. Cut your meat, when cold, in thin slices, to the weight of about a pound, including, if possible, from two to three ounces of fat; then take one or two Savoy cabbages, according to size, which, when boiled and chopped, ought to weigh about two pounds; cut each cabbage in four, throw a few of the green outside leaves away, as likewise the stalk; put about a gallon of water in an iron saucepan; when boiling add your cabbage, and let it remain about twenty minutes, or until tender; drain them well, and chop them up rather fine; then add three ounces of either butter or dripping in the frying-pan, which put on the fire; when hot put in your slices of meat, which semi-fry of a nice brownish colour, on both sides; take them out, put them on a dish, keep them warm; then put the cabbage in the pan with the fat, add a teaspoonful of salt, the same quantity of pepper; stir round till hot throughout; put on the dish, lay the meat over, and serve; if no cabbage, any green will do, first boiled, drained, chopped, and fried. Boiled carrots and turnips, previously cooked and chopped, may be added to the cabbage.
161. Fritters of Meat, Poultry, Fish, and Fruits.—The following is thirty receipts in one:—Put a pound of the crumb of bread to soak in cold water, take the same quantity of any kind of boiled or roasted meat, a little fat, which chop in dice rather fine, press the water out of the bread; put in the pan two ounces of butter, lard, or dripping, with two teaspoonfuls of chopped onions, fry two minutes, add the bread, stir with a wooden spoon until rather dry, then add the meat, season with a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, if handy; stir till quite hot; then add two eggs, one at a time, mix very quick, and pour on dish to cool.
Then roll it into the shape of small eggs, then in flour, egg them and bread-crumb, fry (as No. 72) a nice yellow colour; serve plain, or with any sharp or any other sauce you fancy.
162. Innumerable are the receipts that can be made in this way; in fact, from everything that is eatable, and at any season of the year,—from the remains of meat, poultry, game, fish, vegetables, using the same amount of seasoning. Bread soaked in milk is better.
163. The same can be done with chopped dried fruits, and preserved fruits, using a quarter of a pound more bread; fry, and sift powdered sugar and cinnamon over. Cream may be used for fruits or curds.
They may also be fried in batter, like fritters, instead of breadcrumbs.
There is no end to what may be done with these receipts. They may be fried, and when cold put between paste, cut into nice pieces of any shape, and baked. They can be ornamented, and made worthy the table of the greatest epicure, if the bread be soaked in cream, and spirits or liquor introduced in them.
164. Tripe, Lyons fashion.—Boil two pounds of tripe; when done, drain it, dry with a cloth, cut it in pieces about an inch square, put in the pan four ounces of butter, four middling-sized onions cut in slices, fry for a few minutes, then add the tripe, stir them every four minutes for about a quarter of an hour, then put in a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, mixed well, and it will be ready for serving.
Vermicelli, boiled in the water that the tripe has been boiled in, makes good soup. Rice or bread is nice done this way. The addition of a teaspoonful of curry, one spoonful of flour, and half a pint of broth or water, will make a good curry with the tripe.
165. A Fried, Toad in the Hole.—Take a steak of the size required, not less in thickness than what I have before stated, and partly fry on both sides; have ready a pint of second-class batter, as No. 470; remove the steak for a minute, add more fat In the pan, put in the batter when it is beginning to become as thick as paste, place the steak in the middle, raise the frying-pan a sufficient height from the fire on a trivet, so as to cook gently; 'turn it over; or put the pan in the oven; when well set it is done; serve on a dish, the bottom uppermost.
165 A. Tripe Sautéd.—Have the tripe already boiled tender; put into the pan two ounces of fat, with two onions in slices; fry them; when brown add the tripe, which must be dry; when they get a little brown add salt, pepper, a pint of second-class batter, No. 462; proceed as above.
The same Curried.—Proceed as above; add one teaspoonful of the curry powder instead of the vinegar.
The same with Pickle.—Proceed as above; adding piccalilly, or gherkins cut small.
166. The Remains of other kinds of Cold Roast Meats may be done in this way, and, when eggs are cheap, poach half-a-dozen, which put on the top.
167. The Remains of Fish, previously cooked, are very good done in this way. A piece of conger eel or ling, about four inches thick, partly boiled in salt water with onions and parsley, and boned, will make a very economical and also a Lenten dish.
168. Veal or Mutton, cut into pieces, about two inches square, and thin, may be fried and added to the batter.
169. Beef Collops, Fried.—Take a piece of steak, part and cut thin into pieces of about two inches square, let it be free from sinews, have the frying-pan well greased, add the pieces of meat, do them quickly, sprinkle salt, pepper, and a little flour over them whilst doing; and when nearly done add any flavour you like, either of curry, pickles tomato, or a little vinegar. Serve very hot.
170. Veal Cutlets for the Aged.—Cut one pound of veal in eight or ten pieces; season with a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of pepper, little chopped parsley; then take each piece separate, and with the hack of the knife heat them well till nearly in a pulp; give them the shape of cutlets with a knife; egg and bread-crumb; heat them nice and smooth, put two ounces of lard in the frying-pan; when rather hot, fry a nice colour; servo plain, or with sharp sauce, No. 411. These may be done, as a general dish, by adding a little fried bacon and chopped onions in the frying-pan. They are extremely tender and full of gravy.
Beef, mutton, and lamb, may be done the same way. Sausage-meat of beef or pork may be here introduced, shaped and fried the same.
Notes:
[*] If eschalot is required to be served up in the dish, or on a separate plate, chop them up fine, as at No. 458, and serve two teaspoonsful to every pound of steak.
[*] For description of chops see page 55, Frying-Pan.