Alexis Soyer's Part 13: Sauces

Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Alexis Soyer's Part 13 (Sauces) Page — Here you will find the full text from the thirteenth section: Sauces; of Alexis Soyer's A Shilling Cookery Book for the People As well as the full text this page also provides links out to the overall index of the book and links to modern redactions of each and every recipe (where practicable). This site builds a complete library of Eliza Acton recipes, allowing the modern cook to make them at home today. Enjoy...

Sauces.



SAUCES.


    410. Melted Butler.—From whence is this extraordinary word derived? what learned pundit could have given it birth ?—a word which recalls so many pleasing moments, when the palate has been gratified by its peculiar fragrance and taste. It is, no doubt, an importation at the time of the Conquest, but although having been domesticated amongst us for near 800 years, we are very far behind our allies on the other side of the channel in its numerous adaptations and applications. The great diplomatist, Talleyrand, used to say, that England had 120 religions, but only one sauce, and that melted butter. He was very near the truth, but, at the same time, he should have told how to engraft 119 sauces to the original one, the same as the various sects he mentions, have been offshoots from the primitive one which was first established in this country.
    I will now endeavour to prevent his words being any longer a truism, and will point out how that one sauce—melted butter (French butter sauce)—can be multiplied ad infinitum, according to the ability of the artist.
    I must first premise that my melted butter is not for the table of the wealthy, but the simple artizan. It is not to consist of two-thirds butter and one-third cream, warmed gradually with a box spoon, but of two ounces of butter, and two ounces of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter that of pepper, mixed together with a spoon, put into a quart pan, with a pint of cold water; place ft on the fire, and stir continually, take it out when it begins to simmer, then add one more ounce of butter, stir till melted, and it is ready for use, or as the foundation of the following various sauces.
    This melted butter is fit to serve at the best tables, by adding three ounces of butter; take, as a guide, that the back of the spoon, in being removed, should always be covered with the butter or sauce; this is essential, as I find that flour varies very much. If you let it boil, it will immediately get thinner.

    Melted Sutter, No. 2.—The following is also very good as the foundation of sauces—it is not so rich, and will keep longer: One ounce of butler, one and a half of flour, a little more salt, pepper, and a gill more water; simmer, and serve.
    These melted butters may be improved slightly by adding half a tablespoonful of vinegar.
    With half of the above quantity make the following sauces. Each ingredient to be mixed in the saucepan. Stir and serve when nearly boiling.


411. SERIES OF SAUCES.


    Anchovy Sauce.—Add two tablespoonsful of essence of anchovies, and mix well.



    Harney's Sauce.—The same of Harvey's sauce.



    Soyer's Relish.—The same of Soyer's relish.

    Soyer's Mustard Sauce.—One teaspoonful of Soyer's mustard.



    Chili Vinegar.—Three teaspoonsful of Chili vinegar.



    Egg Sauce.—Two hard boiled eggs cut in dice and added.



    Caper Sauce.—Two tablespoonsful of chopped capers added: if no capers, use pickled gherkins.



    Fennell Sauce.—The same of chopped fennel.



    Parsley and Butter.—The same of chopped parsley.



    Mild Onion Sauce.—Boil four onions in salt and water, take them out, chop them up, and add them to the above with a little more salt, and a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little milk or cream.



    Sage and Onion.—To the above, a tablespoonful of chopped green sage and a little more pepper.



    White Sauce.—The yolk of one egg, and mix with milk or cream instead of water. A blade of mace is an improvement when boiling, and stir.



    Celery Sauce.—Boil in a half-pint of white gravy, if handy, if not, water, one fine head of celery, cut in one inch lengths and well washed,—it will take about twenty minutes,—add it to the melted butter. The yolk of an egg beat up and stirred in is an improvement; it may require a little more salt. Serve with poultry.



    Cucumber Sauce.—Cut up two cucumbers lengthways, remove the seeds, cut them in one inch pieces, boil them in a gill of white gravy, with salt and pepper, add it to the melted butter; simmer and serve. Sugar is an improvement.



    Vegetable Marrow, when young, the same as above.

    412. Brown Sauce.—Put a quarter of a pound of batter and eight ounces of flour in a saucepan, and set it on a slow fire; keep stirring for ten minutes, or till light brown, then take it off and let it pet nearly cold, then pour over sufficient brown stock, No. 2, to make it a nice thickness, or like thinnish melted butter; then boil for ha'.f an hour, skim, strain it into a basin, and use where and when required. If you have this sauce by you, use it instead of melted butter for brown sauces. To make it darker, a little colouring may be added.

    413. White Sauce.—Put into a convenient sized stew pan four ounces of butter, and eight ounces of flour; set on fire, keep stirring as above; take the pan from the fire and stir until nearly cool, then pour on sufficient white stock, No. 1, until it is a nice consistency; put it on the fire and boil for a quarter of an hour; keep stirring continually; pass it through a sieve, and keep for use.
    Half a pint of boiled milk will make it look whiter.
    This sauce, when handy, is the foundation of all white sauces, for celery, cauliflower, mushroom, cucumber, vegetable marrow, &c., or any white sauces, instead of using melted butter. Observe, Eloise, that I only send you these two preceding sauces in the event of a little dinner party, as they belong to a higher class of cookery.

FISH SAUCES.


    Shrimp Sauce.—Pick half a pint of shrimps, and boil the skin3 in a gill of water for fifteen minutes; strain the water, and add it, with the flesh of the shrimps, to half a pint of melted butter, and simmer for a few minutes. Add a little anchovy.

    Lobster Sauce.—Get the raw eggs, or the inside spawn of tha lobster, put them on a plate with a bit of butter, and with the blade of a knife mash them, or pound them in a mortar; this, when put into the hot melted butter, will make it red. Cut the lobster up in small pieces, and add the soft part from the belly with it to the melted butter (a middling sized lobster will make a quart of sau&). A little cayenne or Harvey's sauce is relishing. Boil and serve.

    Crab and Crayfish.—The same as lobster.

    Mussel and Oyster.—Open twelve oysters or thirty-six mussels, beard, and blanch them lightly in their own liquor; take them out, reduce the liquor, and add them to the half-pint of melted butter; when boiling add a little cayenne, and one ounce of butter. A drop of cream or boiling milk will improve it. Or, when your oysters are raw in the pan, add half a gill of milk and a few .peppercorns; blanch lightly, mix half a teaspoonful of Hour with half an ounce of butter, put in bit by bit, stir round, boil, and serve, A little cayenne will improve it, also a drop of cream.

    Cod-Liver Sauce.—Half a pound of cod-liver, previously boiled, cut in large dice, with a little anchovy sauce, to half a pint of melted butter. Mix the same as No. 410.

    Pickle Sauce.—One tablespoonful of chopped pickle or piccallily, one ditto of the vinegar from it; add to half a pint of melted butter, and boil for a few minutes. Good for fish, meat, and poultry.

    414. Apple Sauce.—Peel six good-sized apples, cut in four pieces, cut out the core, slice them fine, put into a stew pan with one ounce of brown sugar and a gill of water; stew till in pulp, and serve with roast pork, goose, and duck.

    415. Mint Sauce.—Chop three tablespoonfuls of green mint, put it into a basin with three of brown sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, and half a pint of vinegar. Use it with roast lamb; also good with cold meat and poultry.

    416. Horseradish Sauce. — Grate two tablespoonfuls of horseradish, which put into a basin; add to it one teaspoonful of mustard, one of salt, a quarter of pepper, one of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar; moisten with a little milk or cream until of a thickish appearance. Serve with rumpsteak, cold meat, &c.

    417. Wine and Spirit Sauce.—Add to half a pint of melted butter, without salt, two tea spoonfuls of whit e or brown sugar, a glass of brandy, or rum, or sherry, or any liquors.

    418. Hotel Keeper's Sauce.—Mix in half a pint of melted butter one tablespoonful of hotel keeper's butter, No. 426; warm it and serve.

    419. A White Sauce for toiled Fowls, &c. &c.—If for two fowls, add to one pint of melted butter (No. 410) two yolks of raw eggs, which mix well with a gill of cream, or milk, and when the melted butter is near boiling mix in and stir very quick, do not let it boil; Vld a little grated nutmeg and stir in a little more butter, season with a little more white pepper, and the juice of a lemon, and pour over your poultry. This is not an every day sauce, but is exceedingly useful to know.
    A little chopped parsley, ham, or tongue sprinkled over the fowl after the sauce is on, gives it a pleasing appearance.
    Or parsley chopped fine, or capers, gherkins, mushrooms, or tongue cut into dice, or green peas, may be added to this sauce to change it.

    420. A sharp Brown Sauce for broiled Fowls and Meat.—Put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stew pan with one of Chia vinegar, one of common vinegar, one of colouring, three of water two of mushroom ketchup, two of Harvey's sauce, one of anchovy, and a pint of melted butter, No. 2; let it simmer until it becomes rather thick to adhere to the back of the spoon, add half a teaspoonful of sugar. This is excellent to almost all kinds of broiled meats, and gives a nice relish to stews, fish, poultry, &c.     421. The same simplified.—Put into a pan one tablespoonful of chopped onion, three spoonfuls of vinegar, one of colouring, six of water, three of either Harvey's sauce, or ketchup, a little pepper and salt, a pint of melted butter, boil till thickish; serve for the same as above.

    422. Onion Sauce.—Peel and cut six onions m slices; put in a stew pan, with two ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, a half one of pepper; place on a slow fire to simmer till in a pulp, stirring them now and then to prevent them getting brown, then add one tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil till a proper thickness, which should be a little thicker than melted butter; serve with mutton cutlets, chops, boiled rabbits, or fowl; by not passing it, it will do for roast mutton and boiled rabbit as onion sauce.

    433. Onion Sauce.—Peel and cut six onions in slices; put in a stew pan, with two ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, a half one of pepper; place on a slow fire to simmer till in a pulp, stirring them now and then to prevent them getting brown, then add one tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil till a proper thickness, which should be a little thicker than melted butter; serve with mutton cutlets, chops, boiled rabbits, or fowl; by not passing it, it will do for roast mutton and boiled rabbit as onion sauce.

    423. Caper Sauce.—Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter Into a stew pan, place it on the fire, and when on the point of boiling, add one ounce of fresh butter and one tablespoonful of capers; shake the stew pan round over the fire until the butter is melted, add a little pepper and salt, and serve where directed.

    424. Cream Sauce.—Put two yolks of eggs in the bottom of a stew pan, with the juice of a lemon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, a little white pepper, and a quarter of a pound of hard fresh butter; place the stew pan over a moderate fire, and commence stirring with a wooden spoon, (taking it from the fire now and then when getting too hot,) until the butter has gradually melted and thickened with the eggs—(great care must be exercised, for if it should become too hot the eggs would curdle, and render the sauce useless;) then add half a pint of melted butter; stir altogether over the fire, without permitting it to boil. This sauce may be served with any description of boiled fish, poultry, meat, or vegetables.

    425. Mustard Sauce.—Put in a stew pan four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions (No. 449), with half an ounce of butter, put on the fire and stir till it gets rather hot, add half a teaspoonful of flour, mixed well, also half a pint of milk or broth (No. 1); let the whole boil ten minutes, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter that of pepper, a little sugar, and two teaspoonfuls of French or English mustard; when it boils it is ready.

    425a. Black Butter.—Put two ounces of salt butter in a stew pan, set it on the fire; when it gets hot and brown add about twenty parsley leaves, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of that of pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, let the whole boil one minute and pour over any article suitable for this kind of sauce.

    425b. Curry Sauce.—Peel and cut two middling sized onions in slices, one apple cut in dice, and two ounces of bacon; put them into an iron stew pan, with one ounce of butter or fat, put on the fire, stir round for five or six minutes, then add three teaspoonfuls of flour, one of curry powder, mixed well; moisten with a pint of milk, half a teaspoonful of salt, and one of sugar; boil till rather thick, and serve over any article suitable for its use.
    If passed through a sieve, put it back into the stew pan, let it boil one minute, and skim it, will be a very great improvement. Curry paste may be used. Broth or water may be used.

    425c. A simpler Manner.—Apples and onions may both be used, as also a pint of melted butter (No. 410). In this no flour need be used.

    425e. Bread Sauce.—Put in a stew pan four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, a quarter of one of salt, half that of pepper, ten pepper corns, peel a small onion, cut in four, add a pint of milk, half an ounce of butter; boil for ten minutes, when it ought to turn out a thickish sauce.
    Important Observation.—It will be seen that in the above sauces there is hardly any but the three first which may not be made with the produce of the cottage garden, or of those articles which arc in daily use, and if these directions are followed, many a ion vivant in London would often envy the cooking of the cottage, as it would contain the freshness and aroma of fresh gathered vegetables.

    426. Hotel Keeper's Butter.—This is very simple and good, and will keep potted for a long time. It is excellent with all broiled meats.
    Put on a plate a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of a spoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, two of chopped parsley, the juice of a middle sized lemon (if no lemon, use vinegar); a little grated nutmeg may be added.

    427. Anchovy Butter.—To a quarter of a pound of butter, two tablespoonfuls of anchovy sauce.












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