Alexis Soyer's Part 16: Marketing and Appendices
Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Alexis Soyer's Part 16 (Marketing and Appendices) Page — Here you will find the full text from the sixteenth section: Marketing and Appendices; of Alexis Soyer's A Shilling Cookery Book for the People As well as the full text this page also provides links out to the overall index of the book and links to modern redactions of each and every recipe (where practicable). This site builds a complete library of Eliza Acton recipes, allowing the modern cook to make them at home today. Enjoy...
ON MARKETING.
My dear friend,—In most cookery books, which are supposed to be written for the middle classes of society, we find at the beginning, and in large type, directions how to market and choose the best joints of meat, poultry, fish, but rarely vegetables, how all the best qualities of each should be known, but nothing is said about the second and third qualities, which two-thirds of the people of England consume; also directions for judging of the finest haunch of mutton, or sirloin of beef, but never of the neck or scrag of mutton, or the skirt of beef, or sheep's head, liver, &c.
If the directions of those works were strictly followed, one-third of the people would be starving, and a population of dogs (as in Turkey) would have to be kept to eat up the supposed offal. At the present moment our soldiers, as well as those of our allies, the French, are feeding excellently off that which is thrown away by the Turks, the head, feet, &c. &c., of the animal, which is by them declared unclean. Such ought never to be the case in a Christian country, for we may bo quite certain that, unless the animal is diseased, all those parts which can be digested is good food for man; hut, there may be some who, from over-indulgence in luxuries, have so brought the stomach into that state, that there are but certain parts of the animal of which they can partake; these persons must, of course, pay higher prices for that kind of meat, and leave the other parts cheaper for those having healthy and good digestions to feed on. It is, therefore, our duty here to teach the labourer's and cottager's wife how to buy it cheap, sweet, wholesome, and nutritious.
Mutton.—The first quality of mutton ought to be between four or five years old; but at present it is rarely got above three, and often under two years. The flesh ought to be a darkish, clear, red colour, the fat firm and white, the meat short and tender when pinched, and ought not to be too fat.
Second quality.—The fat is rather spongy, the lean close and rough grained, and a deep red, and the fat adheres firmly to the meat.
Third quality.—This is, perhaps, a sheep which has had some disease and recovered; the liver would always show this, but as butchers generally remove it, and do not let it be seen, you cannot judge from it. The flesh will be paler, the fat a faint white, and the flesh loose from the bone; if very bad and diseased the fat will be yellow, and the lean flabby and moist. To ascertain if it is fresh proceed as for pork.
Lamb should be four or five months old, and ought to weigh from thirty to forty pounds; the fat ought to be white and light in appearance, the flesh a faintish white, smooth, and firm to the touch.
The second quality is not so well covered with fat, the flesh rather red, the meat softer, and every joint presents a coarser appearance.
The third quality is flabby, lean, and red, the fat rather yellow, and will keep sweet but a short time.
To ascertain it fresh, place the finger between the loin and kidney, and, if moist, or tainted, will be easily ascertained by the smell.
Beef.—Most towns and counties in the United Kingdom differ in the kind of cattle brought to market. It is not our duty here to mention the breed which we think the best, and on which so many different opinions exist; but the quality of meat depends upon the feeding. The best quality of beef will have an open grain, bright red colour, the fat white, and the bark smooth. Some of the best qualities will have the fat yellow, from being fed on oil-cake; and, unless it has afterwards been fed on turnips, will be wasteful in cooking, although the meat may be tender arid rich.
The second quality will be close-grained and rather flabby, paler in colour, and the fat a dead white and the bark rough.
The third quality, the grain is very close, no streaks of fat between the grain, and of deep brickdust red, tough under the finger, the fit hard and skinny. To ascertain the age, look at the bone or horn which runs through the ribs of beef; if a fine four-year old heifer, this horn or bone will be soft or tender, and becomes harder the older the ox. But the best plan to judge of the flavour of the meat before you do it by eating it, is to look at the tongue of the bullock, and if it is plump and has a clean bright appearance, with the fat at the end of a pinkish white, then the meat will turn out good; but if the tongue should look dark, the fat a dead white, then that meat will eat hard and flavourless. The same holds good with sheep.
Veal.—There is more difficulty in the choice of veal than any other meat, although the general opinion is, it is the easiest. I often hear how white it is, how plump it looks: these are often produced artificially.
The preference is usually given to the cow calf, from its being whiter and having the udder; but if a bull call has been properly fed, and killed at about ten weeks old, nothing can be finer in flavour or closer in grain when cooked, and will be much more juicy than the cow calf. The grain should be close, firm, and white, the fat a pinkish white, not a dead white, and the kidneys well covered with thick white fat; that is the first class veal. The second quality is darker in flesh, may be slaughtered in the country, and equally as nourishing as the first; the third quality will have less fat round the kidney, be coarser grained, and the lean red. It is often more nourishing than the very white veal, but not so delicate or digestible. It is caused by the calf being reared in the open air.
If the suet under the kidney is soft arid clammy the meat is not fresh.
The neck is the first joint that becomes tainted. Calves' liver should be firm, and free from gristle or spots; the heart should be surrounded with fat.
When veal has to be kept, it should always be hung up, and never allowed to lay on anything, or it soon becomes tainted.
Pork.—The quality of this entirely depends on the feeding. A friend of mine made various experiments, and more particular!y on the same litter of pigs, and the various sizes and different flavour of the meat was extraordinary. There is one thing very certain, that whatever a pig is fed upon, it will be much better in size and quality if kept clean and well washed at least once a week. Those breeds that produce a fine close-grained meat, not too much fat, and that firm, solid, and pinkish white, are the best; if the tongue is clean and full, the animal is well fed and healthy.
The second quality of pork may be very good, but the flesh will be hard and red, and the fat a yellow white.
The third quality, the meat will be coarse-grained, the fat soft, and the tongue and kidneys discoloured. Measly pork may be known by the little kernels in the fat: it is not allowed to be sold by the butchers, and yet, in many large towns in England, it is openly exposed for sale.
If the flesh is clammy and moist, it is not fresh. The best plan to tell the freshness of this, or any meat, is to take with you,, in hot weather, to market two wooden skewers, and insert them in the flesh near the bone, and remove them, and the nose will detect it immediately; this is much better than touching the meat. These skewers should be scraped after being used.
Sucking Pigs.—The skin should be clear and fresh, the tongue clean, the flesh of a pinkish hue, and not too large in size.
Poultry.—The means of telling the various qualities of poultry are well known: the age is known by the spur, and the quality by the skin. There is, perhaps, no poultry in the world that comes up to the well-fed Dorking capon. The new breed of Cochin China fowls, of which the best for eating is the grey kind, if fed and treated in the same way as the Dorking capons, might produce a larger fowl, but it is questionable if so tender.
White legged fowls are generally preferred, but there are black ones equally as good. In country places, where chickens are sometimes required to be killed in the morning for that day's dinner, it is best to give each, shortly before killing it, a teaspoonful of vinegar, which will cause them to eat tender. This can be done with all kinds of poultry.
Geese the same.
Ducks should have the feet supple, the breast fall and hard, and a clear skin.
Turkeys should have fine, full, and firm legs, skin white, breast full, neck long.
Game may be detected by removing the feathers off the under part of the leg, and if the skin is not discoloured, they are fresh. The age may be known by placing the thumb into the beak, and holding the bird up with the jaw part of the beak: if it breaks, it is young; if not, it is old, and requires keeping longer before cooking to be eatable.
KITCHEN REQUISITES.
As a workman cannot work properly without the requisite tools, or the painter produce the proper shade without the necessary colours, in like manner does every person wishing to economize his food, and to cook it properly, require the proper furniture wherewith to do it. It is to be hoped that these pages, which have cost me both time and trouble, as well as months of travelling, will be read by many above the class to whom it is more especially dedicated; and that hereafter kitchen utensils may be considered proper to give as a wedding present to a couple commencing housekeeping. Nothing, I am certain, could be given that would be a better promoter of peace and happiness in their home.
In a superior cottage, which, should it consist of four rooms, the kitchen should be the back one, and not, as is often the case, the front one, made into a kitchen and sitting-room, and the back one a washhouse and receptacle for dirt, &c. Whilst I am on this subject, I would remark that, in my opinion, all cottages or houses require, in this climate, a porch, or second door; it would prevent the continued draught and blowing in of the rain and dust, and thus avoid a great deal of illness amongst the inmates, and add greatly to the cleanliness and comfort of the dwelling; but if built upon H.B.H. Prince Albert's plan, they do not require it.
The back room should be fitted up with a proper grate, with oven and boiler, and a copper holding at least six gallons. It should have the requisite shelves, and a little sink to hold a tub, and with a tap or pump for water; the latter article I consider the most essential requisite of a cottager's dwelling: it should possess two gridirons, one single, one double, a large and small trying-pan, three black saucepans, holding one gallon, halt gallon, one quart, or a three-legged black pot, instead of the gallon one, a large iron spoon, a ladle, two wooden spoons, a wooden bowl, a cullender, a chopper, a large knife, a baking pan, a rolling pin, a paste brush, a stove brush, two tin tart dishes, three brown basins, six bread tins or pans.
A more humble abode, possessing two rooms, or perhaps only one, which latter I disapprove of very much, as there ought to be two in every dwelling,however small,will perhaps not be able to afford so many articles of furniture; in which case I would recommend, as being the most serviceable, the black pot, gridiron, frying-pan, earthen pan, or bowl, or spoon, ladle, cullender, chopper, three basins, two tin tart dishes, baking pan, with oven: with these most of the receipts in these pages may be cooked to perfection.
And with the pan, gridiron, and frying-pan, nearly one half of the receipts may be done. For baking stewing-pan. see Appendix.
ON THE SELECTION OP VEGETABLES
As regards vegetation in general,the eye can soon detect the glowing freshness, which nature deposits upon such delicate articles of food as peas, asparagus, cucumbers, beans, spinach, salads of all kinds; any of the above will not keep fresh after being cut, longer than twenty-four hours, during the summer, and twice that time in winter. All vegetables should be kept in as cool a place as possible; still, when the bloom disappears, it is time to make your bargain, as they then can be had cheaper: do not, however, buy any vegetable on any part of which decomposition has commenced to any extent, as if eaten in this state it will be found injurious to health.
Vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower, common greens, carrots, turnip-tops, leeks, celery, artichokes, both globe and Jerusalem, will keep much longer.
Another way to ascertain if vegetables are old gathered, is to break a piece off any one with the hand; if it snaps crisply it is fresh; if, on the contrary, it has a flabby appearance, and is of a sottish consistency, it is stale, and should be bought accordingly.
SOYER'S AERIAL COOKING STOVE.
My dearest friend,—Wonders will never cease; and ballooning, I am happy to say, has at last proved itself of some use to humanity, for, no doubt, this ingenious apparatus, which I have now in contemplation before me, must have sprung out of those atmospheric castles so unsafely built in the air; but the superiority of this little aerial pigmy is so much above that of his brother monster balloon, that you can have as many ascents in the course of a day as you choose, even with a parachute, without the slightest danger of getting upset; it is capable also of successfully braving the strongest current of air; and, contrary to all aeronautical notions, its descent is even more agreeable than its ascent, for it actually refreshes and elevates the spirit of the spectators, instead of causing them fear, whilst descending to terra firma.
In this unassuming utensil, Eloise, the wealthy epicure and great amateurs of cookery will be able to dress a most recherche dinner before the dining or drawing-room fire, without soiling his apartment, apparatus, or even his fingers; the cottager will be able, before his humble tire, to transmogrify his coarse food to a nice stew, roast, or baked pie to perfection.
In every cottage bread will be lighter, and contain more nutriment, than when baked in a large oven, in which considerable evaporation always takes place.
This little oven has not the slightest resemblance to our magic stove, which was made for the wealthy only, and which is now largely fraternizing with our troops and allies, in the war camps in the east.
This little apparatus will be dedicated to all classes, but more particularly to the masses, as I think, from the model which 1 now have before me, it can be made for a few shillings.
I have already tried many receipts in it, all of which have more than answered my expectations, copies of them will be printed and sold with the apparatus. I have made good soup, and dressed fish and meat of all kinds, as well as vegetables, having also roasted and baked meat, and made sweet and savoury pastry in it.
In fact, I may say, that in reality it is almost a complete kitchen in a very small compass, a real petit bijoux de famille, not quite so large as our extensive friend Signor Lablache's favourite hat.
VISIT TO THE CRYSTAL PALACE.
Dearest Eloise,—I was very much disappointed on my arrival in London that you were unable, through illness, to meet me at the station, as I need not tell you how charmed I should have been to embrace you, after nearly fifteen months' absence, and verbally thank you for your more than punctual correspondence.
My first visit, after my arrival in this monster metropolis, was far from being a mournful one, such as I have been used to in my rusticating rambles. No, my dear, I had seen all its "dark side" of life before. It was to that fairy land and palace at Sydenham, which, in my estimation, is a continuation of the "Arabian Nights." It would be impossible for me to describe this wonder of the nineteenth century. I might almost say that it would be giving to every one a description of his own property, as it is the People's Palace; and, no doubt, every one will, if possible, go as often as convenient to get a sight of his own property, when they will be as charmed as I was.
If I cannot serve as a cicerone, as far as regards the beauties of the building, yet there is one department which ho visitor can enter without the permission of the grand major-domo, or by the sanction of the chef-de-cuisine. I mean the victualling department and cellars of this gigantic place. The annals of gormandizing never told such a talc as is here, daily witnessed; never were.provisions better selected and more carefully managed than by Mr. Home, the well-known and talented director of this department.
The cooking is most ably conducted by Mr. Fidler, late of the Reform Club, and pupil of Mr. Soyer. A large number of cooks, under his care and guidance, are daily erecting pyramids of food, from the most recherché dish to the huge mountain of viands, to satisfy the craving appetites of the thousands who daily visit this seat of intellect. Napoleon the First had a saying, that it is the stomach which governs the world: truly it is; for, to see the thousands who are daily faring before a most sumptuous buffet, at once gives an air of truth to the great warrior's maxim. And these refreshments, supplied as they are at a reasonable price, are sure to attract the attention of the dainty public, and cannot fail being both beneficial to shareholders and partakers.
I must not omit to mention one of the most interesting departments of the building, which is the manufacture of aerated waters, where thousands of grosses of bottles are daily filled in a most artistic manner, under the direction of Mr. Cox, whose new beverages, as you doubtless recollect, were so much appreciated at the Exhibition of 1851. Being in a room where a private dinner was to take place for twenty persons, I was charmed with the beautiful appearance presented by a pyramid of choice fruits, which on inquiry I ascertained was supplied by no less a person than the prize fruiterer, as he is called at the fruit shows, Mr. Lewis Solomon, of Covent Garden.
In the monster kitchen all the latest culinary improvements seem to have been placed, and are daily in use. The one that carries off the palm, in my estimation, is a beautiful gas roasting apparatus, designed and patented by Messrs. Deaue and Dray, of London-bridge. It is internally lined with red bricks, which reflect a great heat on the object roasting. Tons of meat and thousands of fowls have been already dressed in it. For Gas Cooking, see page 90.
A PLUM PUDDING FOR THE MILLION, OR A LUXURY FOR THE ARTISAN.
Here is a cheap pudding, adapted not for the millionaire but for the million. No eggs are required, and it costs only sixteen pence to make a good-sized one, enough to supply from ten to twelve people :— Receipt.—Put in a basin a pound of flour, half a pound of stoned raisins, ditto of currants, ditto of chopped suet, two tablespoonsful of triennial, and half a pint of water. Mix all well, put in a cloth or mould, and boil from four and a half to five hours.
Such—Melted butter, sugar, and juice of lemon, if handy.
A tablespoonful will well sweeten half a pint. A little spice, or n few drops of any essence, or lemon, or peel chopped; a little brandy, rum, &c. &c., will be an improvement.
CAMP RECEIPTS FOR THE ARMY IN THE EAST. (From the Times of the 22nd January, 1855.)
No. 1.Camp Soup.—Put half-a-pound of salt pork in a saucepan, two ounces of rice, two pints and a-half of cold water, and, when boiling, let simmer another hour, stirring once or twice; break in six ounces of biscuit, let soak ten minutes; it is then ready, adding 0116 teaspoonful of sugar, and a quarter one of pepper, if handy.
No. 2. Beef Soup.—Proceed as above, boil an hour longer, adding a pint more water.
If any flour is handy, make some dumplings thus:—Mix half-a-pound of flour with enough water to form a thick dough, divide it into pieces each the size of a small apple, roll them in flour, flatten with your hands; half an hour will cook them; serve round with the beet For this receipt half the quantity biscuit may be used. Soup separate.
Notes.—Those who can obtain any of the following vegetables will had them a great improvement to the above soups:—Add four ounces of either onions, carrots, celery, turnips, leeks, greens, cabbage, or potatoes, previously well washed or peeled, or any of these mixed to make up four ounces, putting them in the pot with the meat.
I have used the green tops of leeks and the leaf of celery as well as the stem, and found. that for stewing. they are preferable to the white part for flavour. 'l‘he meat being generally salted with rock salt, it ought to be well scraped and washed, or even soaked in water a few hours if convenient; but if the last cannot be done, and the meat is therefore too salt, which would spoil the broth, parboil it for twenty minutes in water, before using for soup, taking care to throw this water away.
No. 3.—For fresh beef proceed, as far as the cooking goes, as for salt beef} adding a teaspoonful of salt to the water.
No. 4. Pea Soup.—Put in your pot half-a-pound of salt pork, half a pint of peas, three pints of water, one teaspoonful of sugar, half one of pepper, four ounces of vegetables, cut in slices, if to he had; boil gently two hours, or until the peas are tender, as some require boiling longer than others, and serve.
No. 5. Stewed Fresh Beef and Rice.—Put an ounce of fat in a pot, cut half-a-pound of meat in large dice, add a teaspoonful of salt, half one of sugar, an onion sliced; put on the {ire to stew for fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally, then add two ounces of rice, a pint o" water; stew gently till done, and serve. Any savoury herb will improve the flavour. Fresh pork, veal, or mutton, may be done the same way, and half-a-pound of potatoes used instead of the rice, and, as rations are served out for three days, the whole of the provisions may be cooked at once, as it will keep for some days this time of the year, and is easily warmed up again.
Receipts for the Frying-pan.———Those who are fortunate enough to possess a frying pan will find the following receipts very useful:—Cut in small dice half-a-pound of solid meat, keeping the bones for soup; put your pan, which should be quite clean, on the fire; when hot through, add an ounce of fat, melt it and put in the meat, season with half a teaspoonful of salt; fry for ten minutes, stirring now and then; add a teaspoonful of Hour, mix all well, put in halt-a pint of water, let simmer for lilted minutes, pour over s biscuit previously looked, and serve.
The addition of a little pepper and sugar, if handy, is an improvement, as is also a pinch of cayenne, curry powder, or spice; saucer and pickles used in small quantities would be very relishing, and, as these are articles which will keep for any length of time, they would be the kind of thing to be sent as presents to the camp. As fresh meat is not easily obtained, any of the cold salt meat may be dressed as above, omitting the salt, and only requires warming a short time; or, for a change, boil the meat plainly, or with greens, or cabbage, or dumplings, as for beef; then the next day cut what is left in small dice—say four ounces—put in a pan an ounce of fat; when very hot, pour in the following:——Mix in a basin a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with water to form the consistency of thick melted butter, then pour it in the pan, letting it remain tin- one or two minutes, or until set; put in the meat, shake the pan tic loosen it, turn it over, let it remain a few minutes longer, and serve.
To cook bacon, chops, steaks, slices of any kind of meat, salt or fresh sausages, black puddings, &c.——Make the pan very hot, having wiped it clean, add in fat, dripping, butter, or— oil, about an ounce of either; put in the meat, turn three or four times, and season with salt and pepper. A few minutes will do it. If the meat is salt, it must be well soaked previously.
Good Pickling for Beef and Pork.—Put in a pan or tub five pounds of salt, three ounces of saltpetre, half a pound of brown sugar, for a joint weighing from ten to twelve pounds, rub it well with the above mixture three or four times. Jetting it remain in pickle for a week; it is then ready for cooking: half an ounce of peppercorns; or a few aromatic herbs, will vary the flavour.
Round of beef, edgebone, breast, flanks, or ox tongues, are the pieces generally salted; small legs, shoulders, and belly of pork, pig's cheek and feet the same. Time your pickling according to size. For plain pickling, omit the sugar and saltpetre.
NEW WAY OF MAKING BEEF TEA.
Cut a pound of solid beef into small dice, which put into a stewpan, with two small pats of butter, a clove, a small onion sliced, and two saltspoonfuls of salt; stir the meat round over the fire for ten minutes, until it produces a thickish gravy, then add a quart of boiling water, and let it simmer at the corner of the fire for half an hour, skimming off every particle of fat; when done pass through a sieve. I have always had a great objection to passing broth through a cloth, as it frequently spoils its flavour.
The same, if wanted plain, is done by merely omitting the vegetables and clove: the butter cannot be objectionable, as it is taken out in skimming; pearl-barley, vermicelli, rice, &c., may be served in it if required. A little leek, celery, or parsley may be added.
APPENDIX.
ON CARVING JOINTS.
Dear Eloise,—I insert the following lesson on that culinary accomplishment, carving, knowing what an important item it is in the art and mystery of cookery, and yet, how few there are who understand that apparently simple art.
First, you must truss your joint with taste, and take away any unsightly bone to give it a good shape, more especially the neck, loin, or breast of either veal, mutton, pork, or lamb.
For a shilling or so you can purchase a small saw, and instead of letting the butcher divide the bone of a loin of mutton carelessly, saw the bone through at about a distance of half an inch from each other. Ribs of lamb, and breasts of mutton and veal the same. These being most difficult joints to carve, should be sawn carefully.
Roast ribs of beef, and sirloin, ought to be cut thinnish, following, as near as possible, the grain of the meat, which you can soon learn to do by paying a little attention. A little fat and gravy should be served on each plate.
Salt beef ought to be cut thinner still. If out of a round or a silver side, cut it even. Cold meat requires to be cut thinner than hot.
Roast fillet of veal, cut as round of beef, helping thin slices of bacon or salt boiled pork; a little stuffing and gravy to be added.
Mutton requires to be cut rather thicker than beef or veal; pork the same. My way of carving a leg of mutton is by putting one prong of the fork in the knuckle-bone, holding it in the left hand, then I cut five or six slices in a slanting manner, towards me, dividing the first two or three cuts equally amongst all the plates. By this method you keep the meat full of gravy, each slice retaining its portion; and it is far better, in an economical point of view, than cutting the joint across the centre, as by this means all the gravy runs out, especially if the meat is over done.
Haunch of mutton I carve the same, giving a slice of the loin and one of the leg to each guest.
Saddle of mutton should never be cut across the loin if you study economy. Pass the point of the knife between the back-bone and the meat, then begin at the top and cut as thin chops in a slanting position, each slice about half an inch thick, which will give you a fair proportion of fat and lean. By this method, you can cut enough for ten to twelve persons, whereas by the other way you only get enough for four or five.
For leg of lamb or pork proceed as for mutton, and for loin, ribs, breast, or neck of either, proceed as above, having previously divided it with a saw, which greatly facilitates the carving of these joints.
SOYER'S BAKING STEWING PAN.
Dear Eloise,—Since I sent you the receipt for my new pan, I perceive that very little fat is required with any meat done in it.
In the event of stewing fat meat or tripe (which is sometimes unavoidable), I first, before sending it to the table, remove the fat which rises to the top with a spoon.
I must say that the more I use the pan the better I like it. I have had it registered and they are now being manufactured in large quantities by Messrs. Deane and Dray, King William-street, City, and will doubtless be before the public in a few weeks. Fat description, see page 69.
SEMI-ROASTING IN THE BAKING STEWING PAN.
This cut represents a tin pan in which a pudding is placed, and on the trivet a joint of beef, previously boned; it is suspended from the inside. Potatoes may be baked round the meat, without interfering with the pudding. The pans will consist of three different sizes; namely, one to hold two quarts, one four, and the other six. Lean meat is preferable to fat for semi-roasting in the baking stewing pan.
ALARUM, OR COOKING CLOCK.
By the aid of this little alarum the housewife will be able to time her joints, pies, and puddings, to an instant.
By winding it up and setting the hand back, starting from twelve, to the time required for the article to cook. Say it is one, and your joint iB to be done at three,—move the hand to ten, wind up the spring, and place the box on the table, giving at the time an impulsion to the pendulum.
N.B. The fire must be of a proper heat, or your joint will be either under or over-done. They are to be purchased at No. 46, King William Street, City.
SOYER'S IMPROVED BAKING DISH.
The above is a sketch of my improved Baking-dish, which I have before described at page 94.
If the oven is rather slack, the pudding baked in it will require turning; therefore, when well set, remove the grating containing the meat and potatoes, cut your pudding in four pieces, turn each piece, replace the grating, and bake till done.
VEGETABLE DRAINER.
The above is a sketch of a saucepan, fitted with a perforated pan and a vegetable drainer.
This group, though extremely simple, is perhaps one of the most economical cooking utensils ever put before the public, and ought to have a place in every kitchen.
It possesses two great qualities, inasmuch as it saves time, and supersedes the tedious method of fishing the greens or cabbage out of the saucepan; and prevents the now every-day evil of emptying with the water in which the vegetables have been boiled, a quantity of the material, which by accident might be left in the pot—thereby eloping up the drain, to the annoyance of the household. To be had of Messrs. Deane & Dray, King William Street, City.
DIRECTIONS FOR USE.
Fit the perforated pan inside the saucepan, half fill it with water, add two teaspoonfuls of salt, and when the water boils put in your greens, or whatever else you may cook. Let it boil fast until tender, then lift out the perforator by the handles, and with the crusher press lightly the water out, and serve.
To boil pork, bacon, or suit beef, with greens:—When any of these are half done, put in your greens, using only half the quantity of salt; when ready, dish up the meat, press the broth out, which save, for soup for the next day's use. (See Soups.)
This represents a model of a Chimney Screw-jack for suspending joints to. Its cost is very trifling, and may be purchased at any ironmonger's. It will fit on any mantel-shelf; and it enables the joint to be shifted nearer or further from the fire, as occasion requires.
I have ordered a small tin-screen which folds in three, and will occupy only a small space before the fire, which will greatly increase the heat when in use. I cannot give a cut of it in the present edition, as I have not yet received the drawing.
SOYER's KITCHEN FOR THE ARMY.
During the period of the famine in Ireland, I took with me a portable kitchen, and erected it opposite the Royal Barracks in Dublin, and with which I cooked and delivered rations for 26,600 persons daily.
Having last year taken a peep at the camp at Chobham, as well as the camp at Satory in France, and seeing, by the ordinary manner in which the provisions for the different messes were cooked, even in France, that a large amount of nutriment of the food was lost, it occurred to me that, if a moveable kitchen could be made to travel with the army, it would be exceedingly useful, whilst on the march, or when encamped.
The following is an explanation of the above kitchen:
The carriage is made of sheet-iron, weighing, with water, fuel, &c, a little more than one ton. The lower part consists of & circular steam boiler, and the upper part of an oven. Over the oven are placed the various pans containing the rations required to be cooked by steam, and on each side is a hanging shelf, which will also hold steam saucepans in front, and round the driver's seat is a reservoir for water, and a place to hold the condiments, &c.
The plan of working it would be to draw it near to a stream or reservoir of water—if brackish or muddy it does not matter*—there fill the boiler and reservoir, and remove it to any convenient spot. The fuel may consist of wood, coal, turf, &c. &c. Within one hour after the fire is lighted the steam would be up, and the oven hot, and with one six feet long and three feet wide, rations for 1000 men could be cooked by baking and steaming in about two hours, and the apparatus moved on again, or it would cook whilst on the march, if on an even road.
Its advantages are, saving of time, labour, men, and food, and the certainty that the men could get their food properly cooked.
The cost of each apparatus would not exceed 1002.
OMISSION.
I perceive, my dear Eloise, that the various receipts for dressing sprats in a plain way, are minus in the previous editions, as far as the 60th thousand of our very successful Uncle Tom’s Kitchen, as our publisher, Mr. Rutledge, calls it,—nearly sixty thousand books having been sold in less than six weeks. Let us, therefore, be grateful to the public, and give them the omitted receipts, which I assure you I had in my original manuscript, but which I have in vain endeavoured to fish out of the book. Being food, and good food for the million, when properly dressed, it is most important that these simple receipts should be immediately introduced in this, the 70th thousand, and more especially as those silvery stars of the ocean are daily expected to pay their annual visit to "terra firma," and that on the next Lord Mayor’s Day everybody probably will be in a good "moon" to partake of them. And most heartily do I join the opinion of the numerous friends of the late celebrated alderman, when I say that the Citizen Kingship of London has never, and never will be, eclipsed by a better subject of Her Most Gracious Majesty, Queen Victoria.
1st Lesson. Sprats, Semi-fried.—Wipe gently with a cloth a a dozen of sprats or more, according to the size of your frying-pan, which requires to be very clean; place it for a minute or two on the fire, to get hot through; sprinkle in it about half a teaspoonful of salt to every dozen of middle-size fish, which place immediately in the pan: leave them for two minutes, turn carefully with the blade of a knife, leave them three or four minutes longer, and serve very hot. To serve them on a napkin is preferable.
Addition.—About a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, or a little Cayenne; also the juice of lemon, or a drop of vinegar, is a pleasing variation.
2nd.—Dip each sprat in flour, put in the pan a little fat, or oil; when very hot, put in the fish, which semi-fry as above. They may also be lightly covered with egg and bread-crumbs—or use sifted biscuit, which is a very agreeable variety of dressing them.
Another way.—Put them in a tin, with a little lard, oil, or butter, salt and pepper, into the. oven. They will take about double the time doing, and will not require turning, which is important. Serve in the tin. You may add chopped parsley and a little lemon, &c.
To broil.—Take a skewer long enough to hold a dozen sprats; dip them lightly in flour; put the gridiron on as clear a fire as possible, and when hot lay them on for two minutes; turn them carefully, leave them till done, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.
Sprat Toast just strikes me.—Take a piece of bread nice and crisp, butter it over; add salt, pepper, and a little Amstrad, and dish the sprats on it.
Sandwich.—Put another similar slice over, cut in four, and serve. You may add to any of the above receipts a little Harvey’s sauce, Chili vinegar, Soyer’s relish, or any mild sauce. A little Anchovy paste on the toast would be an improvement.
Dearest Elouise,—
We have remarked before, and must now repeat it, with Hippocrates, that that which pleases the palate nourishes the most.
Nothing can be more applicable than these words of far famed antiquity; and rightly do they apply to a new discovery I made whilst in London, about a month back, which I regard as a blessing to the sufferer who is obliged to seek relief from cod-liver oil. I am pleased to tell you that, in lien of the generally rancid quality of this preparation, I have found it palatable and rather agreeable, in comparison with the other, and far superior to what I tasted at the Hull Infirmary, during a visit there (see pages 41, 42, and 43), which caused me to think of those dishes in which fresh cod-liver is used : but, as these cannot supply the "mass," I must make you acquainted with this "boon for the miilion:" and I certainly prefer Dr. De Jongh's Light Brown Cod-liver Oil, which approaches in taste as near to that delicacy, the sturgeon "Caviare," as anything I ever tasted, leaving its medicinal properties in the hands of such eminent authorities as Professor Liebig,Wöler, Berzelius, Fouquier, Dr. Jonathan Pereira, &c., and the Analytical Commissioner of the "Lancet," who so highly speak in its favour.
I will in a few clays forward, as you requested, the receipt cf the celebrated Lancashire Pepper Pot.
SOYER'S
NEW CHRISTMAS RECEIPTS
SOYERS NEW CHRISTMAS PUDDING.
You are right, dearest Hortense, this is by far the most delicate
and best plum-pudding I ever tasted, without being, at the same
time, too rich; the combination of ingredients is perfect, and although
there is hardly any difference in the materials used in this to an
ordinary plum-pudding, it tasted to me like one made of entirely new ingredients, and I consider it a great acquisition to this, the hundredth
thousand of our Shilling Cookery.
This receipt, if closely followed, would, at this festive season of the year, save tons of fruit and other expensive ingredients, which are partly wasted for want of knowing how to turn them to the best advantage.
Carefully prepare the following previous to mixing the pudding:—
Cbristmas Pudding.—Four ounces of stoned raisins, four ounces of sultanas, half-a-pound of well-cleaned currants, half-a-pound of beef suet chopped fine, two ounces to powdered white sugar, two ounces of flour, half-a-pound of bread crumbs, twelve bitter almonds blanched chopped small, half a nutmeg grated, two ounces of candied citron, the peel of half a small lemon chopped fine. When all is prepared separately, put in a basin, break over four eggs, and add half a gill of brandy. Mix these all well the evening before wanted, cover over till the morning, then add half a gill of milk, and well stir your pudding; slightly butter a cloth, sprinkle a little flour over, put it in a basin, pour in the mixture, tie your cloth in the usual way, not too tight; put in half gallon of boiling water, adding a little more now and then to keep it to half a gallon, let simmer two hours and thirty minutes; turn out of cloth, and serve on a hot dish.
After which, when at the dining-room door, pour round a gill of either brandy or rum, which set on fire with a piece of paper; place the dish on the table, let burn half a minute, and pour the following sauce over from the saucer. Cut seven or eight slices from the pudding crossways, or according to number, when help, and serve very hot.
The sauce I prefer with it is as follows: Make half-a-pint of melted butter, as N0. 410, or ordinary plain melted butter, rather thick, add to it two teaspoonfuls of sugar, a small glassful of noyeau, the juice of half a lemon, and a pat of butter; stir quick, pour over your pudding when very hot, or serve separate in a sauce-boat.
You beg of me a simplified receipt of my Christmas pudding. You cannot expect that it will be as good as the above; and if I consent to give it you, it is upon the sensible remark that you make to me on this subject, that though it cannot be expected to be as good as the above, yet in its way it will far excel thousands of pubdings with richer ingredients, which are made at this festive season of the year for want of judgment in the proportion.
The above Pudding simplified.—Stone half a pound of common raisins, wash and clean half a pound of currents, half a pound of beef suet chopped fine, two ounces of brown sugar, three ounces of flour, three eggs, half a pound of bread crumbs, half a gill of rum, and a gill of milk. Mix all well the night previous, put in a cloth as above, boil three hours, and serve. Pour over melted butter in which you have put one tablespoonful of sugar and the juice of half a lemon, if handy.
How to vary and improve the Pudding at a trifling expense.—The addition of a little mixed spice or pounded cinnamon, lemon, or orange peel, chopped fine, or a drop or two of any essence, a couple of sharp apples cut in dice, and a few dates or French prunes. Cut the same, using only half the raisins or currants.
Observe. Eloise, that I send you this receipt as a dainty dish, or bonne bouche, therefore, if you find it a little complicated in its details, it will at the same time well repay the extra time and trouble, and hardly increase the expense, as I perceive it only costs two shillings and fourpence, and that by buying everything in small quantities. But far those who require plainer puddings, I refer them to receipts No. 334. and the following one, which is still plainer, simpler in its details.
As, no doubt, our readers will fix all their attention on the new receipts for Christmas, it is important to know that some excellent ones are to be found in the body of the book, as being well adapted for this festive season. Some are very economical, to suit persons in such circumstances. For instance, see receipts Nos. 335, 336, 338, 339, 310, 342, 343, 346, 348, 349, and 350.
Dear Eloise,—You are aware that any great event in every nation has almost always left behind some national culinary reminiscence of the circumstance, and many a sanguinary battle is kept alive in our memories, both in youth and age, from our eating either puddings or cakes to commemorate it. For instance, the French have their poulet à la Morengo, from that great battle. We have our Michaeimas goose from Queen Elizabeth’s victory over the Spanish Armada. Mice pies, pancakes, &.c., all have their data. It would not be attempting too much on our part to add another of these everlasting delicacies to the above many, under the glorious title of the "Alma Allied Pudding". And may the palate of the future generation be as gratified with the excellence of this concoction as the ears of the present one has been with the announcement of the grand victory which took birth, under the united flags of two of these great nations;—which will, it is to be hoped, form the rainbow of union and liberty, and illuminate for ever as a mighty meteor the lankness of despotism.
The Alma Pudding.—Make half a pound of bread crumbs, which put in a basin; add two ounces of sago, six ounces of fine chopped suet, five ounces of sugar, four ounces of sultana raisins, six eggs, half A gill of rum, and ogle tablespoonful of apricot jam. Well butter the interior of a pudding basin; add the mixture. Put some water in a sauce-pan, set it on the fire; when beginning to boil, put in your basin, which ought to be a little more than half immersed in the water. Boil gently on a slow fire for two hours; take it out, pass the knife between the basin and pudding, and serve.
The Sauce—Put in a small pan two tablespoonsful of apricot jam and two glasses of sherry; warm gently, when boiling pour over.
How to Ornament the above.—The interior of the basin or mould may be nicely ornamented with currants, green angelica, sultana and Malaga raisins, candied peel, almonds, ginger, &c., &c., which will firmly adhere to the pudding. The first I made I ornamented with a sugar drum fixed on the top, the three allied flags passed through, forming a trophy, surrounding it with brandy balls; a gill of French brandy round it, set on fire, and serve. All the above ornaments may be obtained at a confectionerʼs.
New Christmas Dish.—A most delicious and cheap dish, easily made.-14;Buy sixpenny worth of light sponge-cake and raspberry rolls, which cut across in slices about half-an-inch thick; lay them on a small dish in a circle, one lying half over the other; put in an oven for ten minutes, add in a small stew-pan two tablespoonsful of currant-jelly, two glasses of sherry, put on the fire, and when boiling pour over and serve. Any jam, jelly, or marmalade, will do.
Pancake à la De la Pole.—Break four fresh eggs, separate the yolk from the white, which put in two different basins, add to the yolk two tablespoonsful of white pounded sugar, half a one of flour, half the rind of either an orange or lemon, chopped very fine, or a drop of any good essence; beat the whole together, and then with a whisk whip the white of the eggs as you would for a sponge-cake. This requires some practice. When hard and white as snow, mix lightly with the yolk, then have ready a very clean frying-pan, which put on a slow fire, add an ounce of butter, when melted put in two tablespoonsful of the batter, let it fry half a minute, then toss it up on the other side, as a pancake, turn it on a dish, use all the batter thus, and when done put them one on the other. Sugar over, bake ten minutes, and serve. While paying a visit in Devonshire, where I invented this dish, I introduced a gill of cream, previously whipped, which made it very delicate. Ordinary cream may be used instead.
How to make Mincemeat.—Chop fine one pound of beef suet, four ounces of lean beef previously roasted, half a pound of apples, four ounces of raisins previously stoned; the above articles must be chopped separately; put them all in a basin, add to it two ounces of candied lemon and orange peel and citron; cut these small, then put in a quarter ounce of mixed spice, four ounces of sugar, mix the whole well together, add in the juice of a lemon, a quarter of a pint of brandy, stir it, put it in a jar, and use when required. Stewed tripe (cold) may be used instead of beef, and half an ounce of bitter almonds and lemon peel. The above, if made one week before Christmas, will answer every purpose, as I wholly object to fermentation. Line your patty-pan with puff-paste, No. 315a, fill thee-parts full with mincemeat, cover over with paste, egg over, sugar, and bake.
Royal Christmas Fare.—The mince-meat as made at Windsor-Castle every year, the ingredients being mixed one month before wanted, is as follows: 240 lbs. of raisins, 400 lbs. of currants, 200 lbs. of lump sugar, 3lbs. of cinnamon,3lbs. of nutmeg, 3lbs. of cloves, 3lbs. of ground allspice, 2lbs. of ginger, 300lbs. of beetf, 350lbs. of suet, 24 bushels of apples, 240 lemons, 30 lbs. of cadret, 72 bottles of brandy, 3 lbs. of mace, 60 lbs. of lemon-peel, and 60 lbs. of orange-peel.
New Style of Mince Pies.—Have ready some mince-pie pans, take some firm butter, cover the inside of each pan with it to the depth of an eighth of an inch, lay on this half an inch of bread crumb, made as No. 452, let it all be of the same depth, then fill your pans with stewed apples, as above, till quite full, then lay on some more bread crumbs, on which put a small piece of butter, and bake for half an hour in an oven, then turn out on a dish. They will be found excellent. You may use any kind of small baking-dish.
Apple Toast.—Cut six apples in four quarters each, take the core out, peel and cut them in slices; put in a saucepan an ounce of butter, then throw over the apples about two ounces of white pounded sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water; put the saucepan on the fire, let it stew quickly, toss them up, or stir with a spoon: a few minutes will do them. When tender, cut two or three slices of bread half an inch thick, put in a frying-pan two ounces of butter, put on the fire; when the butter is melted, put in your bread, which fry of a nice yellowish colour; when nice and crisp, take them out, place them on a dish, a little white sugar over, the apples about an inch thick. Serve hot.
2nd Lesson, with Improvements.—Egg the top of the apples, bread-crumb, and put a little butter over; put them in the oven for half an hour, sprinkle over with sugar, and serve. They arc also good cold. A tablespoonful of currant jelly, or any nice jam, or a glass of port, sherry, or brandy poured over is excellent. The bread may be well toasted, buttered, and sugared over, the bread being cut in any shape you may fancy, either round or in dice; they will dish well in crown shape. A glass of rum or brandy may be placed in the centre and set on fire when sent to table.
If served cold, whipped cream may be put over.
Amongst my Christmas gifts I must not omit one of the simplest and nicest that I ever concocted. It is at once simple and economical, and should follow the immortal plum-pudding.
New Manner of Stewing Pears.—Take six large pears, well ripe, which at this season of the year can be bought for about two pence each, cut each in two lengthways, peel them slightly, put them in a very clean stewpan, cover them over with three ounces of white sugar powdered, slightly peel a lemon, cut the rind into small strips, press the juice on top of the sugar, gently shake the pan, it will dissolve the sugar, then put it on a very slow fire for ten or fifteen minutes, shake it gently once or twice, turn each piece with a fork put it on the fire, and let it stew again for ten minutes. When done, put them on a dish to cool, then dress them on a flat dish, pour the syrup over, and serve. They may also be done in a slow oven.
The above varied.—Two teaspoonfuls of currant jelly or jam, marmalade, or orange may be mixed with syrup, or half a glass of either maraschino or brandy. Any kind of pear, if ripe, will do. The core, if large, must be removed.
OMISSION.
Goose Stuffing.—For a middling sized bird, peel and cut in two, crossways, four large-sized onions, weighing altogether about one pound; slice these rather fine, chop them up with some green sage, or bruise with both hands some dry; then put in a black pot or pan two ounces of butter, lard, or dripping; add in the chopped onions two teaspoonsful of sage if green, three if dry, one of salt, one of brown sugar, half one of pepper. Set this on a slow fire, letting it stew for fifteen to twenty minutes; then with a spoon studious bird while the onions are quite hot. This may he done in winter a few days before it is put to the spit, as it imparts to the goose a nice savoury flavour.
How to vary the Stuffing.—Four tablespoonsful of bread crumb may be added, or two of broken biscuit, or four of chopped apples, or four of rice, or four of cold boiled potatoes, or a little chopped lemon, or a little herbs of almost any kind, or chopped boiled beetroot.
Marketing and Appendices.
My dear friend,—In most cookery books, which are supposed to be written for the middle classes of society, we find at the beginning, and in large type, directions how to market and choose the best joints of meat, poultry, fish, but rarely vegetables, how all the best qualities of each should be known, but nothing is said about the second and third qualities, which two-thirds of the people of England consume; also directions for judging of the finest haunch of mutton, or sirloin of beef, but never of the neck or scrag of mutton, or the skirt of beef, or sheep's head, liver, &c.
If the directions of those works were strictly followed, one-third of the people would be starving, and a population of dogs (as in Turkey) would have to be kept to eat up the supposed offal. At the present moment our soldiers, as well as those of our allies, the French, are feeding excellently off that which is thrown away by the Turks, the head, feet, &c. &c., of the animal, which is by them declared unclean. Such ought never to be the case in a Christian country, for we may bo quite certain that, unless the animal is diseased, all those parts which can be digested is good food for man; hut, there may be some who, from over-indulgence in luxuries, have so brought the stomach into that state, that there are but certain parts of the animal of which they can partake; these persons must, of course, pay higher prices for that kind of meat, and leave the other parts cheaper for those having healthy and good digestions to feed on. It is, therefore, our duty here to teach the labourer's and cottager's wife how to buy it cheap, sweet, wholesome, and nutritious.
Mutton.—The first quality of mutton ought to be between four or five years old; but at present it is rarely got above three, and often under two years. The flesh ought to be a darkish, clear, red colour, the fat firm and white, the meat short and tender when pinched, and ought not to be too fat.
Second quality.—The fat is rather spongy, the lean close and rough grained, and a deep red, and the fat adheres firmly to the meat.
Third quality.—This is, perhaps, a sheep which has had some disease and recovered; the liver would always show this, but as butchers generally remove it, and do not let it be seen, you cannot judge from it. The flesh will be paler, the fat a faint white, and the flesh loose from the bone; if very bad and diseased the fat will be yellow, and the lean flabby and moist. To ascertain if it is fresh proceed as for pork.
Lamb should be four or five months old, and ought to weigh from thirty to forty pounds; the fat ought to be white and light in appearance, the flesh a faintish white, smooth, and firm to the touch.
The second quality is not so well covered with fat, the flesh rather red, the meat softer, and every joint presents a coarser appearance.
The third quality is flabby, lean, and red, the fat rather yellow, and will keep sweet but a short time.
To ascertain it fresh, place the finger between the loin and kidney, and, if moist, or tainted, will be easily ascertained by the smell.
Beef.—Most towns and counties in the United Kingdom differ in the kind of cattle brought to market. It is not our duty here to mention the breed which we think the best, and on which so many different opinions exist; but the quality of meat depends upon the feeding. The best quality of beef will have an open grain, bright red colour, the fat white, and the bark smooth. Some of the best qualities will have the fat yellow, from being fed on oil-cake; and, unless it has afterwards been fed on turnips, will be wasteful in cooking, although the meat may be tender arid rich.
The second quality will be close-grained and rather flabby, paler in colour, and the fat a dead white and the bark rough.
The third quality, the grain is very close, no streaks of fat between the grain, and of deep brickdust red, tough under the finger, the fit hard and skinny. To ascertain the age, look at the bone or horn which runs through the ribs of beef; if a fine four-year old heifer, this horn or bone will be soft or tender, and becomes harder the older the ox. But the best plan to judge of the flavour of the meat before you do it by eating it, is to look at the tongue of the bullock, and if it is plump and has a clean bright appearance, with the fat at the end of a pinkish white, then the meat will turn out good; but if the tongue should look dark, the fat a dead white, then that meat will eat hard and flavourless. The same holds good with sheep.
Veal.—There is more difficulty in the choice of veal than any other meat, although the general opinion is, it is the easiest. I often hear how white it is, how plump it looks: these are often produced artificially.
The preference is usually given to the cow calf, from its being whiter and having the udder; but if a bull call has been properly fed, and killed at about ten weeks old, nothing can be finer in flavour or closer in grain when cooked, and will be much more juicy than the cow calf. The grain should be close, firm, and white, the fat a pinkish white, not a dead white, and the kidneys well covered with thick white fat; that is the first class veal. The second quality is darker in flesh, may be slaughtered in the country, and equally as nourishing as the first; the third quality will have less fat round the kidney, be coarser grained, and the lean red. It is often more nourishing than the very white veal, but not so delicate or digestible. It is caused by the calf being reared in the open air.
If the suet under the kidney is soft arid clammy the meat is not fresh.
The neck is the first joint that becomes tainted. Calves' liver should be firm, and free from gristle or spots; the heart should be surrounded with fat.
When veal has to be kept, it should always be hung up, and never allowed to lay on anything, or it soon becomes tainted.
Pork.—The quality of this entirely depends on the feeding. A friend of mine made various experiments, and more particular!y on the same litter of pigs, and the various sizes and different flavour of the meat was extraordinary. There is one thing very certain, that whatever a pig is fed upon, it will be much better in size and quality if kept clean and well washed at least once a week. Those breeds that produce a fine close-grained meat, not too much fat, and that firm, solid, and pinkish white, are the best; if the tongue is clean and full, the animal is well fed and healthy.
The second quality of pork may be very good, but the flesh will be hard and red, and the fat a yellow white.
The third quality, the meat will be coarse-grained, the fat soft, and the tongue and kidneys discoloured. Measly pork may be known by the little kernels in the fat: it is not allowed to be sold by the butchers, and yet, in many large towns in England, it is openly exposed for sale.
If the flesh is clammy and moist, it is not fresh. The best plan to tell the freshness of this, or any meat, is to take with you,, in hot weather, to market two wooden skewers, and insert them in the flesh near the bone, and remove them, and the nose will detect it immediately; this is much better than touching the meat. These skewers should be scraped after being used.
Sucking Pigs.—The skin should be clear and fresh, the tongue clean, the flesh of a pinkish hue, and not too large in size.
Poultry.—The means of telling the various qualities of poultry are well known: the age is known by the spur, and the quality by the skin. There is, perhaps, no poultry in the world that comes up to the well-fed Dorking capon. The new breed of Cochin China fowls, of which the best for eating is the grey kind, if fed and treated in the same way as the Dorking capons, might produce a larger fowl, but it is questionable if so tender.
White legged fowls are generally preferred, but there are black ones equally as good. In country places, where chickens are sometimes required to be killed in the morning for that day's dinner, it is best to give each, shortly before killing it, a teaspoonful of vinegar, which will cause them to eat tender. This can be done with all kinds of poultry.
Geese the same.
Ducks should have the feet supple, the breast fall and hard, and a clear skin.
Turkeys should have fine, full, and firm legs, skin white, breast full, neck long.
Game may be detected by removing the feathers off the under part of the leg, and if the skin is not discoloured, they are fresh. The age may be known by placing the thumb into the beak, and holding the bird up with the jaw part of the beak: if it breaks, it is young; if not, it is old, and requires keeping longer before cooking to be eatable.
As a workman cannot work properly without the requisite tools, or the painter produce the proper shade without the necessary colours, in like manner does every person wishing to economize his food, and to cook it properly, require the proper furniture wherewith to do it. It is to be hoped that these pages, which have cost me both time and trouble, as well as months of travelling, will be read by many above the class to whom it is more especially dedicated; and that hereafter kitchen utensils may be considered proper to give as a wedding present to a couple commencing housekeeping. Nothing, I am certain, could be given that would be a better promoter of peace and happiness in their home.
In a superior cottage, which, should it consist of four rooms, the kitchen should be the back one, and not, as is often the case, the front one, made into a kitchen and sitting-room, and the back one a washhouse and receptacle for dirt, &c. Whilst I am on this subject, I would remark that, in my opinion, all cottages or houses require, in this climate, a porch, or second door; it would prevent the continued draught and blowing in of the rain and dust, and thus avoid a great deal of illness amongst the inmates, and add greatly to the cleanliness and comfort of the dwelling; but if built upon H.B.H. Prince Albert's plan, they do not require it.
The back room should be fitted up with a proper grate, with oven and boiler, and a copper holding at least six gallons. It should have the requisite shelves, and a little sink to hold a tub, and with a tap or pump for water; the latter article I consider the most essential requisite of a cottager's dwelling: it should possess two gridirons, one single, one double, a large and small trying-pan, three black saucepans, holding one gallon, halt gallon, one quart, or a three-legged black pot, instead of the gallon one, a large iron spoon, a ladle, two wooden spoons, a wooden bowl, a cullender, a chopper, a large knife, a baking pan, a rolling pin, a paste brush, a stove brush, two tin tart dishes, three brown basins, six bread tins or pans.
A more humble abode, possessing two rooms, or perhaps only one, which latter I disapprove of very much, as there ought to be two in every dwelling,however small,will perhaps not be able to afford so many articles of furniture; in which case I would recommend, as being the most serviceable, the black pot, gridiron, frying-pan, earthen pan, or bowl, or spoon, ladle, cullender, chopper, three basins, two tin tart dishes, baking pan, with oven: with these most of the receipts in these pages may be cooked to perfection.
And with the pan, gridiron, and frying-pan, nearly one half of the receipts may be done. For baking stewing-pan. see Appendix.
As regards vegetation in general,the eye can soon detect the glowing freshness, which nature deposits upon such delicate articles of food as peas, asparagus, cucumbers, beans, spinach, salads of all kinds; any of the above will not keep fresh after being cut, longer than twenty-four hours, during the summer, and twice that time in winter. All vegetables should be kept in as cool a place as possible; still, when the bloom disappears, it is time to make your bargain, as they then can be had cheaper: do not, however, buy any vegetable on any part of which decomposition has commenced to any extent, as if eaten in this state it will be found injurious to health.
Vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower, common greens, carrots, turnip-tops, leeks, celery, artichokes, both globe and Jerusalem, will keep much longer.
Another way to ascertain if vegetables are old gathered, is to break a piece off any one with the hand; if it snaps crisply it is fresh; if, on the contrary, it has a flabby appearance, and is of a sottish consistency, it is stale, and should be bought accordingly.
My dearest friend,—Wonders will never cease; and ballooning, I am happy to say, has at last proved itself of some use to humanity, for, no doubt, this ingenious apparatus, which I have now in contemplation before me, must have sprung out of those atmospheric castles so unsafely built in the air; but the superiority of this little aerial pigmy is so much above that of his brother monster balloon, that you can have as many ascents in the course of a day as you choose, even with a parachute, without the slightest danger of getting upset; it is capable also of successfully braving the strongest current of air; and, contrary to all aeronautical notions, its descent is even more agreeable than its ascent, for it actually refreshes and elevates the spirit of the spectators, instead of causing them fear, whilst descending to terra firma.
In this unassuming utensil, Eloise, the wealthy epicure and great amateurs of cookery will be able to dress a most recherche dinner before the dining or drawing-room fire, without soiling his apartment, apparatus, or even his fingers; the cottager will be able, before his humble tire, to transmogrify his coarse food to a nice stew, roast, or baked pie to perfection.
In every cottage bread will be lighter, and contain more nutriment, than when baked in a large oven, in which considerable evaporation always takes place.
This little oven has not the slightest resemblance to our magic stove, which was made for the wealthy only, and which is now largely fraternizing with our troops and allies, in the war camps in the east.
This little apparatus will be dedicated to all classes, but more particularly to the masses, as I think, from the model which 1 now have before me, it can be made for a few shillings.
I have already tried many receipts in it, all of which have more than answered my expectations, copies of them will be printed and sold with the apparatus. I have made good soup, and dressed fish and meat of all kinds, as well as vegetables, having also roasted and baked meat, and made sweet and savoury pastry in it.
In fact, I may say, that in reality it is almost a complete kitchen in a very small compass, a real petit bijoux de famille, not quite so large as our extensive friend Signor Lablache's favourite hat.
Dearest Eloise,—I was very much disappointed on my arrival in London that you were unable, through illness, to meet me at the station, as I need not tell you how charmed I should have been to embrace you, after nearly fifteen months' absence, and verbally thank you for your more than punctual correspondence.
My first visit, after my arrival in this monster metropolis, was far from being a mournful one, such as I have been used to in my rusticating rambles. No, my dear, I had seen all its "dark side" of life before. It was to that fairy land and palace at Sydenham, which, in my estimation, is a continuation of the "Arabian Nights." It would be impossible for me to describe this wonder of the nineteenth century. I might almost say that it would be giving to every one a description of his own property, as it is the People's Palace; and, no doubt, every one will, if possible, go as often as convenient to get a sight of his own property, when they will be as charmed as I was.
If I cannot serve as a cicerone, as far as regards the beauties of the building, yet there is one department which ho visitor can enter without the permission of the grand major-domo, or by the sanction of the chef-de-cuisine. I mean the victualling department and cellars of this gigantic place. The annals of gormandizing never told such a talc as is here, daily witnessed; never were.provisions better selected and more carefully managed than by Mr. Home, the well-known and talented director of this department.
The cooking is most ably conducted by Mr. Fidler, late of the Reform Club, and pupil of Mr. Soyer. A large number of cooks, under his care and guidance, are daily erecting pyramids of food, from the most recherché dish to the huge mountain of viands, to satisfy the craving appetites of the thousands who daily visit this seat of intellect. Napoleon the First had a saying, that it is the stomach which governs the world: truly it is; for, to see the thousands who are daily faring before a most sumptuous buffet, at once gives an air of truth to the great warrior's maxim. And these refreshments, supplied as they are at a reasonable price, are sure to attract the attention of the dainty public, and cannot fail being both beneficial to shareholders and partakers.
I must not omit to mention one of the most interesting departments of the building, which is the manufacture of aerated waters, where thousands of grosses of bottles are daily filled in a most artistic manner, under the direction of Mr. Cox, whose new beverages, as you doubtless recollect, were so much appreciated at the Exhibition of 1851. Being in a room where a private dinner was to take place for twenty persons, I was charmed with the beautiful appearance presented by a pyramid of choice fruits, which on inquiry I ascertained was supplied by no less a person than the prize fruiterer, as he is called at the fruit shows, Mr. Lewis Solomon, of Covent Garden.
In the monster kitchen all the latest culinary improvements seem to have been placed, and are daily in use. The one that carries off the palm, in my estimation, is a beautiful gas roasting apparatus, designed and patented by Messrs. Deaue and Dray, of London-bridge. It is internally lined with red bricks, which reflect a great heat on the object roasting. Tons of meat and thousands of fowls have been already dressed in it. For Gas Cooking, see page 90.
Here is a cheap pudding, adapted not for the millionaire but for the million. No eggs are required, and it costs only sixteen pence to make a good-sized one, enough to supply from ten to twelve people :— Receipt.—Put in a basin a pound of flour, half a pound of stoned raisins, ditto of currants, ditto of chopped suet, two tablespoonsful of triennial, and half a pint of water. Mix all well, put in a cloth or mould, and boil from four and a half to five hours.
Such—Melted butter, sugar, and juice of lemon, if handy.
A tablespoonful will well sweeten half a pint. A little spice, or n few drops of any essence, or lemon, or peel chopped; a little brandy, rum, &c. &c., will be an improvement.
CAMP RECEIPTS FOR THE ARMY IN THE EAST. (From the Times of the 22nd January, 1855.)
No. 1.Camp Soup.—Put half-a-pound of salt pork in a saucepan, two ounces of rice, two pints and a-half of cold water, and, when boiling, let simmer another hour, stirring once or twice; break in six ounces of biscuit, let soak ten minutes; it is then ready, adding 0116 teaspoonful of sugar, and a quarter one of pepper, if handy.
No. 2. Beef Soup.—Proceed as above, boil an hour longer, adding a pint more water.
If any flour is handy, make some dumplings thus:—Mix half-a-pound of flour with enough water to form a thick dough, divide it into pieces each the size of a small apple, roll them in flour, flatten with your hands; half an hour will cook them; serve round with the beet For this receipt half the quantity biscuit may be used. Soup separate.
Notes.—Those who can obtain any of the following vegetables will had them a great improvement to the above soups:—Add four ounces of either onions, carrots, celery, turnips, leeks, greens, cabbage, or potatoes, previously well washed or peeled, or any of these mixed to make up four ounces, putting them in the pot with the meat.
I have used the green tops of leeks and the leaf of celery as well as the stem, and found. that for stewing. they are preferable to the white part for flavour. 'l‘he meat being generally salted with rock salt, it ought to be well scraped and washed, or even soaked in water a few hours if convenient; but if the last cannot be done, and the meat is therefore too salt, which would spoil the broth, parboil it for twenty minutes in water, before using for soup, taking care to throw this water away.
No. 3.—For fresh beef proceed, as far as the cooking goes, as for salt beef} adding a teaspoonful of salt to the water.
No. 4. Pea Soup.—Put in your pot half-a-pound of salt pork, half a pint of peas, three pints of water, one teaspoonful of sugar, half one of pepper, four ounces of vegetables, cut in slices, if to he had; boil gently two hours, or until the peas are tender, as some require boiling longer than others, and serve.
No. 5. Stewed Fresh Beef and Rice.—Put an ounce of fat in a pot, cut half-a-pound of meat in large dice, add a teaspoonful of salt, half one of sugar, an onion sliced; put on the {ire to stew for fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally, then add two ounces of rice, a pint o" water; stew gently till done, and serve. Any savoury herb will improve the flavour. Fresh pork, veal, or mutton, may be done the same way, and half-a-pound of potatoes used instead of the rice, and, as rations are served out for three days, the whole of the provisions may be cooked at once, as it will keep for some days this time of the year, and is easily warmed up again.
Receipts for the Frying-pan.———Those who are fortunate enough to possess a frying pan will find the following receipts very useful:—Cut in small dice half-a-pound of solid meat, keeping the bones for soup; put your pan, which should be quite clean, on the fire; when hot through, add an ounce of fat, melt it and put in the meat, season with half a teaspoonful of salt; fry for ten minutes, stirring now and then; add a teaspoonful of Hour, mix all well, put in halt-a pint of water, let simmer for lilted minutes, pour over s biscuit previously looked, and serve.
The addition of a little pepper and sugar, if handy, is an improvement, as is also a pinch of cayenne, curry powder, or spice; saucer and pickles used in small quantities would be very relishing, and, as these are articles which will keep for any length of time, they would be the kind of thing to be sent as presents to the camp. As fresh meat is not easily obtained, any of the cold salt meat may be dressed as above, omitting the salt, and only requires warming a short time; or, for a change, boil the meat plainly, or with greens, or cabbage, or dumplings, as for beef; then the next day cut what is left in small dice—say four ounces—put in a pan an ounce of fat; when very hot, pour in the following:——Mix in a basin a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with water to form the consistency of thick melted butter, then pour it in the pan, letting it remain tin- one or two minutes, or until set; put in the meat, shake the pan tic loosen it, turn it over, let it remain a few minutes longer, and serve.
To cook bacon, chops, steaks, slices of any kind of meat, salt or fresh sausages, black puddings, &c.——Make the pan very hot, having wiped it clean, add in fat, dripping, butter, or— oil, about an ounce of either; put in the meat, turn three or four times, and season with salt and pepper. A few minutes will do it. If the meat is salt, it must be well soaked previously.
Good Pickling for Beef and Pork.—Put in a pan or tub five pounds of salt, three ounces of saltpetre, half a pound of brown sugar, for a joint weighing from ten to twelve pounds, rub it well with the above mixture three or four times. Jetting it remain in pickle for a week; it is then ready for cooking: half an ounce of peppercorns; or a few aromatic herbs, will vary the flavour.
Round of beef, edgebone, breast, flanks, or ox tongues, are the pieces generally salted; small legs, shoulders, and belly of pork, pig's cheek and feet the same. Time your pickling according to size. For plain pickling, omit the sugar and saltpetre.
NEW WAY OF MAKING BEEF TEA.
Cut a pound of solid beef into small dice, which put into a stewpan, with two small pats of butter, a clove, a small onion sliced, and two saltspoonfuls of salt; stir the meat round over the fire for ten minutes, until it produces a thickish gravy, then add a quart of boiling water, and let it simmer at the corner of the fire for half an hour, skimming off every particle of fat; when done pass through a sieve. I have always had a great objection to passing broth through a cloth, as it frequently spoils its flavour.
The same, if wanted plain, is done by merely omitting the vegetables and clove: the butter cannot be objectionable, as it is taken out in skimming; pearl-barley, vermicelli, rice, &c., may be served in it if required. A little leek, celery, or parsley may be added.
ON CARVING JOINTS.
Dear Eloise,—I insert the following lesson on that culinary accomplishment, carving, knowing what an important item it is in the art and mystery of cookery, and yet, how few there are who understand that apparently simple art.
First, you must truss your joint with taste, and take away any unsightly bone to give it a good shape, more especially the neck, loin, or breast of either veal, mutton, pork, or lamb.
For a shilling or so you can purchase a small saw, and instead of letting the butcher divide the bone of a loin of mutton carelessly, saw the bone through at about a distance of half an inch from each other. Ribs of lamb, and breasts of mutton and veal the same. These being most difficult joints to carve, should be sawn carefully.
Roast ribs of beef, and sirloin, ought to be cut thinnish, following, as near as possible, the grain of the meat, which you can soon learn to do by paying a little attention. A little fat and gravy should be served on each plate.
Salt beef ought to be cut thinner still. If out of a round or a silver side, cut it even. Cold meat requires to be cut thinner than hot.
Roast fillet of veal, cut as round of beef, helping thin slices of bacon or salt boiled pork; a little stuffing and gravy to be added.
Mutton requires to be cut rather thicker than beef or veal; pork the same. My way of carving a leg of mutton is by putting one prong of the fork in the knuckle-bone, holding it in the left hand, then I cut five or six slices in a slanting manner, towards me, dividing the first two or three cuts equally amongst all the plates. By this method you keep the meat full of gravy, each slice retaining its portion; and it is far better, in an economical point of view, than cutting the joint across the centre, as by this means all the gravy runs out, especially if the meat is over done.
Haunch of mutton I carve the same, giving a slice of the loin and one of the leg to each guest.
Saddle of mutton should never be cut across the loin if you study economy. Pass the point of the knife between the back-bone and the meat, then begin at the top and cut as thin chops in a slanting position, each slice about half an inch thick, which will give you a fair proportion of fat and lean. By this method, you can cut enough for ten to twelve persons, whereas by the other way you only get enough for four or five.
For leg of lamb or pork proceed as for mutton, and for loin, ribs, breast, or neck of either, proceed as above, having previously divided it with a saw, which greatly facilitates the carving of these joints.
Dear Eloise,—Since I sent you the receipt for my new pan, I perceive that very little fat is required with any meat done in it.
In the event of stewing fat meat or tripe (which is sometimes unavoidable), I first, before sending it to the table, remove the fat which rises to the top with a spoon.
I must say that the more I use the pan the better I like it. I have had it registered and they are now being manufactured in large quantities by Messrs. Deane and Dray, King William-street, City, and will doubtless be before the public in a few weeks. Fat description, see page 69.
This cut represents a tin pan in which a pudding is placed, and on the trivet a joint of beef, previously boned; it is suspended from the inside. Potatoes may be baked round the meat, without interfering with the pudding. The pans will consist of three different sizes; namely, one to hold two quarts, one four, and the other six. Lean meat is preferable to fat for semi-roasting in the baking stewing pan.
By the aid of this little alarum the housewife will be able to time her joints, pies, and puddings, to an instant.
By winding it up and setting the hand back, starting from twelve, to the time required for the article to cook. Say it is one, and your joint iB to be done at three,—move the hand to ten, wind up the spring, and place the box on the table, giving at the time an impulsion to the pendulum.
N.B. The fire must be of a proper heat, or your joint will be either under or over-done. They are to be purchased at No. 46, King William Street, City.
The above is a sketch of my improved Baking-dish, which I have before described at page 94.
If the oven is rather slack, the pudding baked in it will require turning; therefore, when well set, remove the grating containing the meat and potatoes, cut your pudding in four pieces, turn each piece, replace the grating, and bake till done.
This group, though extremely simple, is perhaps one of the most economical cooking utensils ever put before the public, and ought to have a place in every kitchen.
It possesses two great qualities, inasmuch as it saves time, and supersedes the tedious method of fishing the greens or cabbage out of the saucepan; and prevents the now every-day evil of emptying with the water in which the vegetables have been boiled, a quantity of the material, which by accident might be left in the pot—thereby eloping up the drain, to the annoyance of the household. To be had of Messrs. Deane & Dray, King William Street, City.
To boil pork, bacon, or suit beef, with greens:—When any of these are half done, put in your greens, using only half the quantity of salt; when ready, dish up the meat, press the broth out, which save, for soup for the next day's use. (See Soups.)
This represents a model of a Chimney Screw-jack for suspending joints to. Its cost is very trifling, and may be purchased at any ironmonger's. It will fit on any mantel-shelf; and it enables the joint to be shifted nearer or further from the fire, as occasion requires.
I have ordered a small tin-screen which folds in three, and will occupy only a small space before the fire, which will greatly increase the heat when in use. I cannot give a cut of it in the present edition, as I have not yet received the drawing.
During the period of the famine in Ireland, I took with me a portable kitchen, and erected it opposite the Royal Barracks in Dublin, and with which I cooked and delivered rations for 26,600 persons daily.
Having last year taken a peep at the camp at Chobham, as well as the camp at Satory in France, and seeing, by the ordinary manner in which the provisions for the different messes were cooked, even in France, that a large amount of nutriment of the food was lost, it occurred to me that, if a moveable kitchen could be made to travel with the army, it would be exceedingly useful, whilst on the march, or when encamped.
The following is an explanation of the above kitchen:
The carriage is made of sheet-iron, weighing, with water, fuel, &c, a little more than one ton. The lower part consists of & circular steam boiler, and the upper part of an oven. Over the oven are placed the various pans containing the rations required to be cooked by steam, and on each side is a hanging shelf, which will also hold steam saucepans in front, and round the driver's seat is a reservoir for water, and a place to hold the condiments, &c.
The plan of working it would be to draw it near to a stream or reservoir of water—if brackish or muddy it does not matter*—there fill the boiler and reservoir, and remove it to any convenient spot. The fuel may consist of wood, coal, turf, &c. &c. Within one hour after the fire is lighted the steam would be up, and the oven hot, and with one six feet long and three feet wide, rations for 1000 men could be cooked by baking and steaming in about two hours, and the apparatus moved on again, or it would cook whilst on the march, if on an even road.
Its advantages are, saving of time, labour, men, and food, and the certainty that the men could get their food properly cooked.
The cost of each apparatus would not exceed 1002.
1st Lesson. Sprats, Semi-fried.—Wipe gently with a cloth a a dozen of sprats or more, according to the size of your frying-pan, which requires to be very clean; place it for a minute or two on the fire, to get hot through; sprinkle in it about half a teaspoonful of salt to every dozen of middle-size fish, which place immediately in the pan: leave them for two minutes, turn carefully with the blade of a knife, leave them three or four minutes longer, and serve very hot. To serve them on a napkin is preferable.
Addition.—About a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, or a little Cayenne; also the juice of lemon, or a drop of vinegar, is a pleasing variation.
2nd.—Dip each sprat in flour, put in the pan a little fat, or oil; when very hot, put in the fish, which semi-fry as above. They may also be lightly covered with egg and bread-crumbs—or use sifted biscuit, which is a very agreeable variety of dressing them.
Another way.—Put them in a tin, with a little lard, oil, or butter, salt and pepper, into the. oven. They will take about double the time doing, and will not require turning, which is important. Serve in the tin. You may add chopped parsley and a little lemon, &c.
To broil.—Take a skewer long enough to hold a dozen sprats; dip them lightly in flour; put the gridiron on as clear a fire as possible, and when hot lay them on for two minutes; turn them carefully, leave them till done, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.
Sprat Toast just strikes me.—Take a piece of bread nice and crisp, butter it over; add salt, pepper, and a little Amstrad, and dish the sprats on it.
Sandwich.—Put another similar slice over, cut in four, and serve. You may add to any of the above receipts a little Harvey’s sauce, Chili vinegar, Soyer’s relish, or any mild sauce. A little Anchovy paste on the toast would be an improvement.
Nothing can be more applicable than these words of far famed antiquity; and rightly do they apply to a new discovery I made whilst in London, about a month back, which I regard as a blessing to the sufferer who is obliged to seek relief from cod-liver oil. I am pleased to tell you that, in lien of the generally rancid quality of this preparation, I have found it palatable and rather agreeable, in comparison with the other, and far superior to what I tasted at the Hull Infirmary, during a visit there (see pages 41, 42, and 43), which caused me to think of those dishes in which fresh cod-liver is used : but, as these cannot supply the "mass," I must make you acquainted with this "boon for the miilion:" and I certainly prefer Dr. De Jongh's Light Brown Cod-liver Oil, which approaches in taste as near to that delicacy, the sturgeon "Caviare," as anything I ever tasted, leaving its medicinal properties in the hands of such eminent authorities as Professor Liebig,Wöler, Berzelius, Fouquier, Dr. Jonathan Pereira, &c., and the Analytical Commissioner of the "Lancet," who so highly speak in its favour.
I will in a few clays forward, as you requested, the receipt cf the celebrated Lancashire Pepper Pot.
NEW CHRISTMAS RECEIPTS
SOYERS NEW CHRISTMAS PUDDING.
This receipt, if closely followed, would, at this festive season of the year, save tons of fruit and other expensive ingredients, which are partly wasted for want of knowing how to turn them to the best advantage.
Carefully prepare the following previous to mixing the pudding:—
Cbristmas Pudding.—Four ounces of stoned raisins, four ounces of sultanas, half-a-pound of well-cleaned currants, half-a-pound of beef suet chopped fine, two ounces to powdered white sugar, two ounces of flour, half-a-pound of bread crumbs, twelve bitter almonds blanched chopped small, half a nutmeg grated, two ounces of candied citron, the peel of half a small lemon chopped fine. When all is prepared separately, put in a basin, break over four eggs, and add half a gill of brandy. Mix these all well the evening before wanted, cover over till the morning, then add half a gill of milk, and well stir your pudding; slightly butter a cloth, sprinkle a little flour over, put it in a basin, pour in the mixture, tie your cloth in the usual way, not too tight; put in half gallon of boiling water, adding a little more now and then to keep it to half a gallon, let simmer two hours and thirty minutes; turn out of cloth, and serve on a hot dish.
After which, when at the dining-room door, pour round a gill of either brandy or rum, which set on fire with a piece of paper; place the dish on the table, let burn half a minute, and pour the following sauce over from the saucer. Cut seven or eight slices from the pudding crossways, or according to number, when help, and serve very hot.
The sauce I prefer with it is as follows: Make half-a-pint of melted butter, as N0. 410, or ordinary plain melted butter, rather thick, add to it two teaspoonfuls of sugar, a small glassful of noyeau, the juice of half a lemon, and a pat of butter; stir quick, pour over your pudding when very hot, or serve separate in a sauce-boat.
You beg of me a simplified receipt of my Christmas pudding. You cannot expect that it will be as good as the above; and if I consent to give it you, it is upon the sensible remark that you make to me on this subject, that though it cannot be expected to be as good as the above, yet in its way it will far excel thousands of pubdings with richer ingredients, which are made at this festive season of the year for want of judgment in the proportion.
The above Pudding simplified.—Stone half a pound of common raisins, wash and clean half a pound of currents, half a pound of beef suet chopped fine, two ounces of brown sugar, three ounces of flour, three eggs, half a pound of bread crumbs, half a gill of rum, and a gill of milk. Mix all well the night previous, put in a cloth as above, boil three hours, and serve. Pour over melted butter in which you have put one tablespoonful of sugar and the juice of half a lemon, if handy.
How to vary and improve the Pudding at a trifling expense.—The addition of a little mixed spice or pounded cinnamon, lemon, or orange peel, chopped fine, or a drop or two of any essence, a couple of sharp apples cut in dice, and a few dates or French prunes. Cut the same, using only half the raisins or currants.
Observe. Eloise, that I send you this receipt as a dainty dish, or bonne bouche, therefore, if you find it a little complicated in its details, it will at the same time well repay the extra time and trouble, and hardly increase the expense, as I perceive it only costs two shillings and fourpence, and that by buying everything in small quantities. But far those who require plainer puddings, I refer them to receipts No. 334. and the following one, which is still plainer, simpler in its details.
As, no doubt, our readers will fix all their attention on the new receipts for Christmas, it is important to know that some excellent ones are to be found in the body of the book, as being well adapted for this festive season. Some are very economical, to suit persons in such circumstances. For instance, see receipts Nos. 335, 336, 338, 339, 310, 342, 343, 346, 348, 349, and 350.
Dear Eloise,—You are aware that any great event in every nation has almost always left behind some national culinary reminiscence of the circumstance, and many a sanguinary battle is kept alive in our memories, both in youth and age, from our eating either puddings or cakes to commemorate it. For instance, the French have their poulet à la Morengo, from that great battle. We have our Michaeimas goose from Queen Elizabeth’s victory over the Spanish Armada. Mice pies, pancakes, &.c., all have their data. It would not be attempting too much on our part to add another of these everlasting delicacies to the above many, under the glorious title of the "Alma Allied Pudding". And may the palate of the future generation be as gratified with the excellence of this concoction as the ears of the present one has been with the announcement of the grand victory which took birth, under the united flags of two of these great nations;—which will, it is to be hoped, form the rainbow of union and liberty, and illuminate for ever as a mighty meteor the lankness of despotism.
The Alma Pudding.—Make half a pound of bread crumbs, which put in a basin; add two ounces of sago, six ounces of fine chopped suet, five ounces of sugar, four ounces of sultana raisins, six eggs, half A gill of rum, and ogle tablespoonful of apricot jam. Well butter the interior of a pudding basin; add the mixture. Put some water in a sauce-pan, set it on the fire; when beginning to boil, put in your basin, which ought to be a little more than half immersed in the water. Boil gently on a slow fire for two hours; take it out, pass the knife between the basin and pudding, and serve.
The Sauce—Put in a small pan two tablespoonsful of apricot jam and two glasses of sherry; warm gently, when boiling pour over.
How to Ornament the above.—The interior of the basin or mould may be nicely ornamented with currants, green angelica, sultana and Malaga raisins, candied peel, almonds, ginger, &c., &c., which will firmly adhere to the pudding. The first I made I ornamented with a sugar drum fixed on the top, the three allied flags passed through, forming a trophy, surrounding it with brandy balls; a gill of French brandy round it, set on fire, and serve. All the above ornaments may be obtained at a confectionerʼs.
New Christmas Dish.—A most delicious and cheap dish, easily made.-14;Buy sixpenny worth of light sponge-cake and raspberry rolls, which cut across in slices about half-an-inch thick; lay them on a small dish in a circle, one lying half over the other; put in an oven for ten minutes, add in a small stew-pan two tablespoonsful of currant-jelly, two glasses of sherry, put on the fire, and when boiling pour over and serve. Any jam, jelly, or marmalade, will do.
Pancake à la De la Pole.—Break four fresh eggs, separate the yolk from the white, which put in two different basins, add to the yolk two tablespoonsful of white pounded sugar, half a one of flour, half the rind of either an orange or lemon, chopped very fine, or a drop of any good essence; beat the whole together, and then with a whisk whip the white of the eggs as you would for a sponge-cake. This requires some practice. When hard and white as snow, mix lightly with the yolk, then have ready a very clean frying-pan, which put on a slow fire, add an ounce of butter, when melted put in two tablespoonsful of the batter, let it fry half a minute, then toss it up on the other side, as a pancake, turn it on a dish, use all the batter thus, and when done put them one on the other. Sugar over, bake ten minutes, and serve. While paying a visit in Devonshire, where I invented this dish, I introduced a gill of cream, previously whipped, which made it very delicate. Ordinary cream may be used instead.
How to make Mincemeat.—Chop fine one pound of beef suet, four ounces of lean beef previously roasted, half a pound of apples, four ounces of raisins previously stoned; the above articles must be chopped separately; put them all in a basin, add to it two ounces of candied lemon and orange peel and citron; cut these small, then put in a quarter ounce of mixed spice, four ounces of sugar, mix the whole well together, add in the juice of a lemon, a quarter of a pint of brandy, stir it, put it in a jar, and use when required. Stewed tripe (cold) may be used instead of beef, and half an ounce of bitter almonds and lemon peel. The above, if made one week before Christmas, will answer every purpose, as I wholly object to fermentation. Line your patty-pan with puff-paste, No. 315a, fill thee-parts full with mincemeat, cover over with paste, egg over, sugar, and bake.
Royal Christmas Fare.—The mince-meat as made at Windsor-Castle every year, the ingredients being mixed one month before wanted, is as follows: 240 lbs. of raisins, 400 lbs. of currants, 200 lbs. of lump sugar, 3lbs. of cinnamon,3lbs. of nutmeg, 3lbs. of cloves, 3lbs. of ground allspice, 2lbs. of ginger, 300lbs. of beetf, 350lbs. of suet, 24 bushels of apples, 240 lemons, 30 lbs. of cadret, 72 bottles of brandy, 3 lbs. of mace, 60 lbs. of lemon-peel, and 60 lbs. of orange-peel.
New Style of Mince Pies.—Have ready some mince-pie pans, take some firm butter, cover the inside of each pan with it to the depth of an eighth of an inch, lay on this half an inch of bread crumb, made as No. 452, let it all be of the same depth, then fill your pans with stewed apples, as above, till quite full, then lay on some more bread crumbs, on which put a small piece of butter, and bake for half an hour in an oven, then turn out on a dish. They will be found excellent. You may use any kind of small baking-dish.
Apple Toast.—Cut six apples in four quarters each, take the core out, peel and cut them in slices; put in a saucepan an ounce of butter, then throw over the apples about two ounces of white pounded sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water; put the saucepan on the fire, let it stew quickly, toss them up, or stir with a spoon: a few minutes will do them. When tender, cut two or three slices of bread half an inch thick, put in a frying-pan two ounces of butter, put on the fire; when the butter is melted, put in your bread, which fry of a nice yellowish colour; when nice and crisp, take them out, place them on a dish, a little white sugar over, the apples about an inch thick. Serve hot.
2nd Lesson, with Improvements.—Egg the top of the apples, bread-crumb, and put a little butter over; put them in the oven for half an hour, sprinkle over with sugar, and serve. They arc also good cold. A tablespoonful of currant jelly, or any nice jam, or a glass of port, sherry, or brandy poured over is excellent. The bread may be well toasted, buttered, and sugared over, the bread being cut in any shape you may fancy, either round or in dice; they will dish well in crown shape. A glass of rum or brandy may be placed in the centre and set on fire when sent to table.
If served cold, whipped cream may be put over.
Amongst my Christmas gifts I must not omit one of the simplest and nicest that I ever concocted. It is at once simple and economical, and should follow the immortal plum-pudding.
New Manner of Stewing Pears.—Take six large pears, well ripe, which at this season of the year can be bought for about two pence each, cut each in two lengthways, peel them slightly, put them in a very clean stewpan, cover them over with three ounces of white sugar powdered, slightly peel a lemon, cut the rind into small strips, press the juice on top of the sugar, gently shake the pan, it will dissolve the sugar, then put it on a very slow fire for ten or fifteen minutes, shake it gently once or twice, turn each piece with a fork put it on the fire, and let it stew again for ten minutes. When done, put them on a dish to cool, then dress them on a flat dish, pour the syrup over, and serve. They may also be done in a slow oven.
The above varied.—Two teaspoonfuls of currant jelly or jam, marmalade, or orange may be mixed with syrup, or half a glass of either maraschino or brandy. Any kind of pear, if ripe, will do. The core, if large, must be removed.
How to vary the Stuffing.—Four tablespoonsful of bread crumb may be added, or two of broken biscuit, or four of chopped apples, or four of rice, or four of cold boiled potatoes, or a little chopped lemon, or a little herbs of almost any kind, or chopped boiled beetroot.