Closet For Ladies: Part 6 Conserves

Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Closet for Ladies and Modern Redaction Recipes, section 6: Conserves — This is the sixth section of the 1608 volume, Closet for Ladies. Here you will find recipes for 'Conserves'. I have used a special font to present the recipes in as close a form to the original as possible as well as side-by-side updates of the text to modern English orthography. I am also working on providing modern redactions for each and every recipe presented here. Enjoy...

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A Closet for Ladies: Section 6: Conserves

Here beginneth Consarues. To make Marmelade of Quinces. TAke your Quinces and boyle them tender, then pare them and cut them to the coare, then draw the pulpe, That is, the Quince through a haire searse and weigh it, to euery pound of pulpe, take a pound of clarified suger, and boyle 60 them together till they come to a perfect colour, putting to them in the boyling a little oyle of Cynamon, and when it is boyled ynough that it will not sticke to the panne, put it into your Marmelade boxes. But your conserue must not be boyled so high in any case, for then it will not bee so good. 1. To make Marmelade of Quinces. Take your quinces and boil them tender, then pare them and cut them to the core, then draw the pulp. That is, [pass] the quince through a hair sieve and weigh it. To every poound of pulp take a pound of clarified sugar and boil them together till they come to a perfect colour, adding to them whilst boiling, a little oil of cinnamon and when it is boiled sufficilenty that it will not stick to the pan put it into your marmalade boxes. But your conserve must not be boiled so high in any case, for then it will not be so good. To make conserue of red and damaske Roses. TAke of the purest and best coloured buddes you can get, and clip off the whites from them and to euery pound of leaues you must take three pound of Barbarie sugar, and beat them together till they be very fine, and then with a wodden spatter take it vp, and set it on the fire till it be through hot, and then presently put it vp, and it will be of an excellent colour. 2. To make conserve of red and damask Roses. Take the purest and best coloured [flower] buds you can get and clip off the whites from them [the petal bases] and to every pound of leaves you must take three pounds of Barbary sugar, and beat them together until they are very fine, and then with a wooden spatula take it up, and set it on the fire until it be hot through and then presently take it out and it will be of an excellent colour. To make Conserue of Violets. TAke of your Violet flowers, and picke off all the blew flowers, and keepe them and weigh them, and take to euery ounce of flowers three ounces of refined suger, and beat them in a alabaster morter till they be very fine, and then take them vp and put them into an earthen Pipkin, and set them vpon the fire vntill snch [such] time as they be thorough hotte, and then take them off, and put them vp and keep them. 3. To make conserve of Violets. Take your violet flowers and pick off all the blue petals and keep them and weigh them and take to every ounce of flowers three ounces of refined sugar and beat them in an alabaster mortar until they are very fine and then take them up and put then into an earthen pipkin* and set them upon the fire until such time as they are thoroughly hot and then take them off and pot them up and keep them. To make pectorall rowles for the Cough. TAke liquorish pouder finely searsed one ounce, of the spices of Diatragacanthum frigidum ij. drams, of Gum-arabecke and Tragarant in fine powder, of each a dram, white starch halfe a dram, Aniseeds in fine pouder one ounce mingle with the rest, then take of suger sixe ounces, of Pennits an ounce and halfe, Suger-candy one ounce powdred & mingled with the former powder, then take Gum-tragacant steeped in Rose water and bear it into past, and so make it into long rowles and so drie them, and keepe them. 4. To make pectoral rolls for the Cough. Take an ounce of finely-sifted liquorice powder, of the spices of Diatragacanthum frigidum* 2 drams, of Gum-arabic and Tragarant in fine powder, of each a dram, white starch half a dram, Aniseeds in fine powder one counce. Mingle with the rest, then take of sugar isx ounces of Pennits* an ounce and a half, Sugar-candy once ounce podered and mingled with the former powder, then take Gum-tragacanth steeped in rose water and bear it into paste, and so make it into long rolls and so dry them and keep them. To make Conserue of Borage flowers. TAke of your Borage flowers well colored and picke the blacks from them, then weigh them, to euery ounce of flowers you must take three ounces of suger, and beat them together in an Alabaster morter with a wooden pestle vntill they be verie fine, so that you cannot discerne any suger in Iumps, then take them out and put the conserue into a pipkin, and heat it through hot, and hauing thus done put them vp & keepe them all the yeare. 5. To make Conserve of Borage Flowers. Take your borage flowers well coloured and pick the black from them, then weigh them and to every ounce of flowers you must take three ounces of sugar and beat them together in an Alabaster mortar with a wooden pestle until they are very fine so that you cannot discern any suar in lumps, then take them out and put the conserve into a pipkin and heat it thoroughly thot and when done, pot them up and keep them all the year. To make conserue of Rosemary flowers. TAke your Rosemary flowers, fresh and good and picke them from the greene tuske, weigh them, and take to euery ounce of flowers three ounces of Suger-candy, and beate them very fine, vsing them in euery respect as you did your other Conserues. 6. To make conserve of Rosemary flowers. Take fresh and good rosemary flowers and pick them from the green husk. Weigh them and take to every ounce of flowers three ounces of Sugar candy and beat them very fine, using them in every respect as you did your other conserves. To make Conserue of Buglosse flowers. TAke your buglosse flowers, and picke them as you did your borage flowers, and then weigh them, and to euery ounce of flowers you must take 63 two ounces of hard sugar and an ounce of sugar Candie, and beate them together till they be exceeding fine, and then set them one the fire to dissolue the sugar, and when it is dissolued and the conserue hot, put it vp and keepe it all the yeare.. 7. To make Conserve of Bugloss flowers. Take your bugloss flowers, and pick them as you did your borage flowers, then weigh them and to every ounce of flowers you must take two ounces of hard sugar and an ounce fo sugar candy and beat them together until they are very fine, and then set them on the fire to dissolve the sugar, and when it is dissolved and the conserve hot, put it up and keep it all the year. To make a Pomaunder. TAke of Beazou in one dram and halfe, of storax, halfe a dram of Lignum aloes in fine powder halfe a scruple, of Labdamum halfe an ounce, powder all these very fine and searse them through laune, and then take of muske a dram, Amber greese ten graines, Ciuet ten graines, and dissolue them in a hot morter with a little rose water and so make them into a pomander putting into it six graines of Ciuet. 8. To make a Pomander. Take a dram and a half of beazou, of storax half a dram, of Lignum aloes in fine powder half a scruple, of Labdanum half an ounce, powder all these very fine and sift them through a lawn [sieve] and then take a dram of musk, ambergris ten grains, civet ten grains and dissolve them in a hot mortar with a little rose water and so make them into a pomandre putting into it six grains of civet. To make Consaure of Barberies. TAke of your Barberies which are very red and ripe and picke them from the stalks and then wash them and put vnto them a prettie deale of faire water and set them on the fire in an earthen pan and so scald them, and being throughly scalded pulpe them thorough a fine searce, and to euery pound of 64 pulpe take a pound of pouder suger and boyle them til it be ynough that is, till it wil cut like marmelade. 9. To make Conserve of Barberries. Take barberries which are very red and ripe and pick them from the stalks and then wash them and add to them a great deal of fair water and set them on the fire in an earthern pan and so scald them and being thoroughly scalded pulp them through a fine sieve and to every pound of pulp take a pound of powdered sugar and boil them until it is sufficient[ly cooked]: that is, until it will cut like marmalade. To make Consarue Cichorie flowers. TAke of your Cichory flower new gathered; for if you let them lie but one hower or two at the most they will loose their coulour and doe you very little seruice, therefore waie them presently, and to euery ounce of flowers you must take three ounces of dubble refined suger and beate them together in a morter of Alabaster and a wooden pestle vntil such time as they be thoroughly beaten, for the better the flowers and suger be beaten, the better will your Conserue be, let this alwayes be for a generall rule, and being very well brayed, you must take them vp, and put it into a chafer cleane scoured, and set it on the fire til it be throughly hot, and then take it off, and put it vp and keepe it all the yeare. 10. To make conserve [of] chicory flowers. Take nelwy-gathered chicory flowers; for if you let them lie but one hour, or two at the most, they will ose their colour and do you very little servince. Therefor weigh them immediately and to every ounce of flowers you must take three ounces of double-refined sugar and bee them together in a mortar of Alabaster and a wooden pestle until such tiem as they are thoroughly beaten [together]; for the better the flowers and sugar are beaten, the better will your conserve be. Let this always be the general rule and being very well beaten you must take them up and put it into a chafer cleanly scoured, and set it on the fire until it is thoroughly hot. And then take it off and put it up and keep it all the year. To keepe Cowcumbers in pickle all the yeare. TAke foure gallons of Conduit water and put vnto it three quarts of bay salt, two handfuls of Sage, one handfull of sweete Marioram, and foure handfulls of Dill, let these boyle til it come to three gallons, and then take it off, and when it is almost cold, put in a hundreth of Cowcumbers into that liquor, into a butter barrel & keepe them al the yeare, but looke that alwaies the herbs lie vpon them, and thus done, it will be a most excellent sallet with oyle, vineger, and pepper. 11. To keep Cucumbers in pickle all the year. Take four gallons of conduit water* and put unto it three quarts of bay salt, two handfuls of sage, one handful fo sweet marjoram, and four handfuls of dill. Let these boil till it comes to three gallons and then take it off [the heat], and when it is almost cold, put in a hundredth of Cucumbers in that liquor, into a butter barrel and keep them all the year, but look that always the herbs lie upon them and thus done, it will be a most excellent salad with oil, vinegar and pepper. An exceeding fine pill vsed for the goute. TAke of Aloes two ounces, Mastick three drammes, Agricke halfe an ounce, Ginger halfe a dramme, let these be poudred very fine, then take of the extraction of Rhubarbe three drammes, and with white wine let them be incorporated into a masse of pills, adding vnto them a droppe of oyle of cloues, and as much or Nutmegges. 12. An exceedingly fine pill used for the gout. Take of aloes two ounces, mastic three drams, agrick half an ounce, ginger half a dram, let these be powdered very finely then take of the extraction of Rhubarb three drams and with white wine let them be incorporated int a mass of pills, adding unto them a drop of oil of cloves and as much of nutmegs. A Medecine for the Goute. TAke of the slippes of starres to the number of foure, and then take to euery stippe foure snayles, and put them into an earthen pot, & sprinckle foure or fiue handfuls of salt vpon them, and then put to them Sage, Rue, Wormewood, and Hyssope, of each foure handfuls, and so distill them, and when you haue distilled them, put to them a quart of wine Vineger, wherein an ounce of white Mercury is dissolued, and so bath the place infected with the goute, and it will ease them presently. 13. A Medicine for the Gout*. Take of the bulb* of stars [of Bethlehem] to the number four and then take to every bulb four snails and put them into an earthen pot and sprikle four of five handfuls of salt upon them, and then put to them sage, rue, wormwood and hissop, of each four handfuls and so distil them and when you have distilled them, put to them a quart of wine Vinegar, wherein an ounce of white Mercury is dissolved, and so bathe the place infected with the gout and it will ease them presently. To make Syrupe of Pomcitrons TAke of Pomcitrons, and cut them in halfes and iuyce them, but beware you wring them not too hard, least it be slimie, and then take to euery pint of iuyce three quarters of a pound of refined suger, and boyle it in an earthen pipkin, till it come to the height of a Syrupe, and take heed in any case that you boyle it not on too hot a fire, least it burne, and then when it is boyled ynough, put it vp, and keepe it all the yeare. 14. To make Syrupe of Pomcitrons*. Take pomcitrons and cut them in halves and jice them, but beware you wring them not too hard, least it be limy, and then take to every pint of juice three quarters of a pound of refined sugar, and boil it in an earthen pipkin until it comes to the height of a syrup, and take heed in any case that you do no boil over too hot a fire, lest it burn. And when it is boiled sufficiently, pot it up, and keep it all the year. To make Syrupe of Violets. TAke your Violets, and pick the flowers, and weigh them, and then put them into a quart of water, and steepe them vpon hot embers, vntill such time as the flowers be turned white, and the water as blew as any violet, then take to that quart of infusion and take foure pound of clarified Suger, & boyle it till it come to a syrupe, scumming them and boyling them vpon a gentle fire, least it turne his colour, and being boyled, put the Syrupe vp and keepe it. 15. To make Syrup of Violets. Take your violets and pick the flowers and weigh them and then put them into a quart of water and steep them upon hot embers until such time as the flowers have turned white and the water is as blue as any violet, then take that quart of infusion and take four pounds of clarified sugar and boil it until it comes to a syrup, scumming them and boiling them upon a gentle fire, lest it turn its colour. And, being boiled, pot the syrup up and keep it. To make Syrupe of Liquorish. TAke your Liquorish eight ounces, and scrape it verie cleane, and briuse it verie well, and mayden haire one ounce, Anyseede, and Fennell seede of each halfe an ounce, steepe these in foure pintes of raine water halfe a day, and then boyle it to a quart, then take a pound and a halfe of clarified suger, and boyle it with that liquor, till it come to a Syrupe, and then put it vp and keepe it. 16. To make a Syrup of Liquorice. Take eight ounces of your liquorice and scrape it very clean and bruise it very well, and maidenhair* one counce, aniseed and fennel seed of each half an ounce. Steep these in four pints of rain water for half a day, and then boil it to a quart, then take a pound and a half of clarified sugar, and boil it with that liquor until it comes to a syrup and then pot it up and keep it. To make Syrupe of Hore-hound. TAke of Hor-hound two handfuls, of Coultsfoote a handful, of time, peneriall, and Calamint of each two drams, of Liquorish one ounce and a halfe, of figges and raysons of the sunne of each two ounces, Pionye kernels a quarter of an ounce, Aniseeds, and Fennell seeds, of each a quarter of an ounce, boyle these in a gallon of faire water, till it come to a pottell or three pintes, and then straine it, and take three pound of Suger, and three egges, and clarifie that liquor, and so boyle it to a Syrupe, and so keepe it all the yeare. 17. To make Syrupe of Horehond. Take of horehound two handfuls, of cotsfot one handful, of thyme, pennyroyal, and calamint of each two drams, of liquorice one ounce and a half, of figs and sultanas, of each two ounces, pine kernels a quarter of an ounce. Boil these in a gallon of fair water till it comes to a pottel or three pints, and then strain it and take three pounds of sugar and three eggs and clarify that liquor and so boil it to a syrup and so keep it all the year. To make Syrupe of Maydenhaire. TAke of Maiden heare sixe ounces, of Liquorish one ounce scraped and sliced, steepe these foure and twentie houres in foure pintes of Conduit water, and then boyle them to quart, and then take two pound of clarified Suger, and boyle it with that liquor vpon a gentle fire, vpon Charcoales, vntill it come to a Syrupe, scumming it very often, that it may be the clearer, for the clearer it is the better it is, and being boyled ynough, put it vp. 18. To make Syrup of Maidenhair. Take of maidenhair six ounces, of liquorice one ounce scraped and sliced, steep these four and twenty hour in four pints of Conduit water, and then boil them to a quart and then take two pounds of clarified sugar and boil it with that liquor upon a gentle fire, upon coals, until it comes to a syrup, scumming it very often, that it may be the clearer, for the clearer it is the better it is an being boiled sufficiently, pot it up. To make Syrupe of Hyssop. TAke of Hyssop one handfull, of Figges, Raysins, Dates of each an ounce, of Calamint halfe a handfull, of French barley one ounce, boyle these in three pintes of water to a quart, and then straine it, and then clarifie it with the whites of two egs, and two pound of Suger, and so boyle them to a Syrupe, and being boyled ynough, keepe them all the yeare. 19. To make Syrup of Hyssop. Take of hyssop one handufl, of Figs, Raisins, Dates of each an ounce, of Calamint half a handful, of French barley one ounce, boil these in three pints of water to a quart and then strain it, and then clarify it with the whites of two eggs and two pounds of sugar and so boil them to a syrup and being boiled sufficiently, keep them all the year. To keepe Cherries all the yeare to haue them at Christmasse. TAke of your fairest Cherries you can get, but be sure that they bee not bruised, and take them and rub them with a linnen clothe, and put them into a Barrell of hay, and lay them in rancks, first laying hay in the bottome, and then Cherries, and then hay againe, and then stoppe them vp close, that no ayre may come neere them, and lay them vnder a fetherbed, where one lyeth continually, for the warmer they are, the better, yet neere no fire, and thus doing, you may haue Cherries at any time of the yere. 20. To keep Cherries all the year to have them at Christmas. Take the fairest cherries you can bet, but be sure that they are not bruised, and take them and rub them with a linnen cloth and put them into a barrel of hay and lay them in ranks, first laying hay in the bottom and then cherries, and then hay again, and then stop them up close that no sir may come near them, and lay them under a feather-bead where one lies continually, for the warmer they are, the better, yet near no fire, and thus doing, you may have cherries at any time of year. To make a Syrupe of Mulberries. TAke your Mulberries which are very ripe, presse out the iuyce from them, thorough a linnen cloth betweene two stickes, and then to euery pint of iuyce, take a pound of suger and boyle it to the height of a Syrup, and then keepe it all the yeare long, and if it waxe any thing thinner a moneth after you put it vp, boyle it againe, and then put it vp. 21. To make a Syrup of Mulberries. Take your Mulberries which are very ripe, press out the juice from them, through a linnen cloth between two sticks and then to every pint of juice, take a pound of sugar and boil it to the height of a Syrup and then keep it all the year long, and if it becomes any thinner a month after you have potted it up, boil it again and then pot it up [again]. To make Syrupe of Lymonds. TTAke your Lymonds, and cut them in halfes, and betwixt your fingers iuyce them, and the liquor that runnes from them wil be very cleare, then take to a pint of iuyce, a pound and a quarter of hard suger, which is very white and boyle it to a Syrupe, and it will keepe excellent well. 22. To make Syrup of Lemons. Take your lemons and cut them in halves and between your fingers juice them and the liquor that runs from them will be very clear. Then take to a pint of juice a pound and a quarter of hard sugar, which is very white and boil it in Syrup and it will keep excellently well. To make Syrupe of Roses sollitine. TAke of Dammaske Roses, and pull them, then take a gallon of water, and when the water is hot, put a good many Damaske Rose leaues, and take them out when they looke white, and doe so ten times, and then the water will looke red, and then to euery pinte of that liquor, put a white of an egge and a pound of suger, and clarifie it, and boyle it to a Syrupe, and keepe it all the yeare, the thicker the Syrupe is the better it will keepe. 23. To make Syrup of Roses sollitine*. Take of damask roses and pull them. Then take a gallon of water and when the water is hot, put [in] a good many Damask rose petals and take them out when they look white and do so ten times and then the water will look red. And then, to every pint of that liquor, put a white of an egg and a pound of sugar and clarify it, and boil it to a Syrup and keep it all the year, the thicker the Syrup, the better it will keep. To make Syrupe of drie Roses. TAke of red Roses dried foure ounces, & infuse them in a quart of faire water vpon hot embers, till the roses haue lost their colour, then take a pound and a halfe of Suger, and clarifie your Liquor and Suger with two egges, and then boyle it to the height of a Syrupe: but take heed in any case that you set not your Syrupe vpon too hot a fire, for then it will loose his colour, and bee worth naught. 24. To make Syrup of dry Roses. Take of red roses, dried, four ounces and infuse them in a quart of fair water upon hot embers till the roses have lost their colour and then take a pound and a half of sugar and clarify your liquor and sugar with two eggs nad then boil it to the height of a Syrup. But take heed in any case that you do not set your syrup upon too hot a fire, for then it will lose its colour and be worth nothing. [The following recipes are taken from the medical section of the book, which otherwise are not reproduced here, but as these are recipes for foods and a perfume, they are related to the other recipes given here and are therefore given here.] To make a fresh Cheese. TAke a quantitie of new milke, and set it on the fire, and let it boyle, and take halfe a dozen yolkes of egs, and beat them and stirre them in the milke on the fire, then take it off the fire, and keepe it stirred, vntill it be luke warme, and then put runnet into it, and stirre it, and let it stand vntill it be gathered together & take vp the curd, and put into it Cinamon and Ginger, and stir it about, & make dishes of it, as you thinke good. 25. To make a fresh Cheese. Take a quantity of new milk and set it on the fire, and let it boil, and take half a dozen yolks of eggs and beat them and stir them in the milk on the fire, then take it off the fire, and keep it stirred, until it be lukewarm an then add rennet to it and stir it and let it stand until it is gathered together and take up the curd nad put into it Cinnamon and Ginger and stir it about and make dishes of it, as you think good. To make Snow. TAke the whites of fiue or sixe egs, a handfull of fine sugar, and as much rose water, and put them in a pottle of cream of the thikest that you can get, beat them all together, as the snow riseth, take it off with a spoone, you must beat it with a sticke clouen in foure, then must you take a loafe of bread and cut away the crust, and set it vpright in a platter, then set a faire rosemarie branch in the loafe, and cast your snow vpon it with a spoone. 26. To make Snow. Take the whites of five or six eggs, a handful of fine sugar, and as much rose water, and put them in a pottle of cream of the thickest that you can get, beat them all together. As the snow rises, take it off with a spoon. You must beat it with a stick split in four, hen you must take a loaf of bread and cut away the crust and set it upright in a platter, then set a fair rosemary branch in the loaf, and cast your snow upon it with a spoon. King Henry the eight his perfume. TAke sixe spoonfulls of compound water, as much of rose water, a quarter of an ounce, of fine sugar, two graines of muske, two graines of ambergreece, two of Ciuet, boyle it softly together, all the house will smell of Cloues. 27. King Henry the Eight, his perfume. Take six spoonfuls of compound water, as much of rose water, a quarter of an ounce of fine sugar, two grains of musk, two grains of ambergris, two of Civet, boil it softly together. All the house will smell of cloves.

Notes:
[*] A pipkin is an earthenware cooking pot used for cooking over direct heat from coals or a wood fire. It has a handle and three feet. Late medieval and postmedieval pipkins had a hollow handle in order to insert a stick in it for manipulation. (for more information and picture see the Pipkin information page).
[*] Diatragacanthum firgidum: this is an admixture. The College of Physicians gives the following directions: Take of Gum Tragacanth two ounces, Gum Arabic an ounce and two drams white Starch half an ounce, Liquorice, the seeds of Melons and white Poppies, of each three drams, the seeds of Citruls, Cucumbers and Gourds, of each two drams, Penids three ounces, Camphore half a scruple, make of them a powder according to art. Also you may make an electuary of them with a sufficient quantity of Syrup of Voilets, but have a care of what was told you before of the seeds.
[*] Pennits: This is pan sugar.
[*] This was a water supply running in a conduit to towns and cities, typically at road level. The best know surviving example being in Cambridge in the UK.
[*] Another recipe in this volume calling for white mercury, mercuric chloride (HgCl₂) which is highly toxic.
[*] The original word here is slippe, meaning 'extract', but later the wort stippe is used, meaing the bulb and basal stem of the star of bethlehem, a member of the allium family. I think that the first incidence is a typographical error and that stippes was meant.
[*] Pomcitron: This is an apple grafted onto a citron or lemon tree.
[*] This is the true maidenhair fern, Adiantum capillus-veneris, the root was the part used.
[*] The word here may well be solace as in Rosa-solis (Roses of solace).

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