Closet For Ladies: Part 4 Banqueting Conceits
Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Closet for Ladies and Modern Redaction Recipes, section 4: Banqueting Conceits — This is the fourth section of the 1608 volume, Closet for Ladies. Here you will find recipes for 'Banqueting Conceits'. I have used a special font to present the recipes in as close a form to the original as possible as well as side-by-side updates of the text to modern English orthography. I am also working on providing modern redactions for each and every recipe presented here. Enjoy...
These pages have been written to be as close to the font styles of the late 16th and early 17th century original as possible, within the limitations of HTML. As a result, the long-s symbol 'ſ' has been used in the text wherever it features in the original, as well as overbars and other symbols to represent abbreviations and the ligatures that link the c–t characters.
You will encounter many unfamiliar culinary terms and usages in this work. Where the recipe has been redacted into modern form, these are either defined in the redaction or a link to a definition is given. However, may of the terms can also be found by browsing or searching the glossary of cooking and food terms pages on this site.
The text presented here is derived directly from the original manuscript, rendered in a late Elizabethan style font. The font is embedded in this page to ensure, as far as possible, that the text renders correctly for you.
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These pages have been written to be as close to the font styles of the late 16th and early 17th century original as possible, within the limitations of HTML. As a result, the long-s symbol 'ſ' has been used in the text wherever it features in the original, as well as overbars and other symbols to represent abbreviations and the ligatures that link the c–t characters.
You will encounter many unfamiliar culinary terms and usages in this work. Where the recipe has been redacted into modern form, these are either defined in the redaction or a link to a definition is given. However, may of the terms can also be found by browsing or searching the glossary of cooking and food terms pages on this site.
The text presented here is derived directly from the original manuscript, rendered in a late Elizabethan style font. The font is embedded in this page to ensure, as far as possible, that the text renders correctly for you.
A Closet for Ladies: Section 4: Banqueting Conceits
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Here beginneth Banqueting conceits, as Marmalades, Quodiniackes, and such like.
Notes: [*] Muskadine here refers to musk, which was used to flavour these comfits. You can use real musk, an animal secretion, which is used in perfumery but is very expensive. But you can also substitute ground musk mallow seeds that has the same flavour profile and it is something that the Stuarts themselves used as a cheaper alternative to musk. [*] ie a bevelled edge. [*] This is a pesudomedical term, with the first word derived from the Latin roots dia- (made of) and cydonium (quince). Thus this is 'simply made, from quinces'. In other cookbooks of the time, this confection is also called 'A Decoction of Quinces'. [*] A pipkin is an earthenware cooking pot used for cooking over direct heat from coals or a wood fire. It has a handle and three feet. Late medieval and postmedieval pipkins had a hollow handle in order to insert a stick in it for manipulation. (for more information and picture see the Pipkin information page). [*] The word leach here is derived from the Middle English leche, which itself is derived form the Old French word for milk (and is itself related to the Welsh llaeth [milk]). It was originally used for all milk-based dishes, referring to the milk itself. Later it came to refer to dishes of set milk, originally custards, but then set jellies, as here. [*] Isinglass is a gelatine derived from the swim bladders of fish. The modern equivalent would be leaf gelatine. [*] A quodiniack is a quince paste made from quince juice, also known as quiddony, condiniak etc. The name has become detached from its original meaning and can be used to refer to a thick paste made from any extracted fruit juice. [*] A posnet (also known as possinet) is a small basin or skillet for boiling or drying. [*] The name here is derived from the Latin and can be translated as 'little twice-baked cakes' ie biscuitlets in modern parlance. [*] This is amulum, wheat starch, which has been used in European baking since at least Roman times. Today we would use cornflour (cornstarch) but prior to Victorian times, amulum would always have been employed. [*] The Lady Day refers to the dat of the virgin Mary, 25th March. This being the liturgical New Year. But, in Britain, the calendar New Year, from at least the late 14th Century, New Year's Day was celebrated on 1 January as part of Yule. Thus the time between the Lady days would have been 2nd Januart to 24th March. [*] lignum aloes, also known as agarwood or oodh (or just agar) is a dark resinous heartwood that forms in Aquilaria and Gyrinops[1] trees (large evergreens native to southeast Asia) when they become infected with a type of mold. Prior to infection, the heartwood is relatively light and pale coloured; however, as the infection progresses, the tree produces a dark aromatic resin in response to the attack, which results in a very dense, dark, resin embedded heartwood. The resin embedded wood is commonly called gaharu, jinko, aloeswood, agarwood, or oud (not to be confused with 'Bakhoor') and is valued in many cultures for its distinctive fragrance, and thus is used for incense and perfumes. [*] Aromaticum is the old alchemical name (and the later perfumer's name) for cloves, literally the dried flower buds of Caryophyllus aromaticus (it can also refer to clove oil). [*] This is the same stage that we would use today for boiled sweets. [*] Aromaticum rosatum is a medicinal powder made of red roses, liquorice, aloeswood, yellowheart, cinnamon, cloves, mace, gum, tragacanth, nutmegs, cardamoms, galangals, spikenard, ambergris, and musk mixed together. It was chiefly prescribed in cordial and cephalic boles and electuaries, to strengthen the stomach and head. [*] This is based on an 8th century tonic that included raw silk, apple juice, ground pearls, musk, ambergris, gold leaf, rose water, cinnamon, sugar and honey. In pre-modern medicine, it was ranked among the best cardiacs, and was frequently used for the palpitation of the heart, or syncope, sometimes for smallpox and measles and a general restorative. [*] A charger is a large, silvered pie plate that was a staple of Elizabethan households. [*] ie stick a strip of marchpane about 2cm tall around the outside to form a lip. [*] This is a classic sugar confection made since the Middle Ages. Manus Christi was also a term used to indicate a sugar boiling temperature and you will find many recipes that call for sugar to be boiled to Manus Christi height. Manus Christi seems to have evolved as a medicinal confection in the Middle ages, hence the rosewater with ambergris and ground pearls. Later, in Elizabethan times Manus Christi became sugar confections coated in gold leaf. Theories vary about the temperature implied by Manus Christi (some believe it to be 102°C, but I think this is too low and you would not have a proper candy. Pesonally I believe it to be 112°C.) [*] A coffin is the Medieval name for a standing pie shell, typically made with either thick pastry or a hot water crust. The name here suggests that it's a shell of sugar plate indended to be filled with the batter made here. [*] The usual customary measurement of flour, equivalent to 8 quarts, or about 6.3kg (depending on how dry and old the flour was). [*] Cipres: this is probably the Henna plant, Lawsonia inermis whose ground aromatic bark was much used in the perfume trade. [*] Callamus: (also known as Calamus) this is the ground and dried root of sweet sedge (sweet flag) Acorus calamus. [*] Benzoin: Benzoin resin, also known as styrax resin is a balsamic resin obtained from the bark of several species of trees in the genus Styrax. It is used in perfumes, some kinds of incense, as a flavoring, and medicine. [*] Storax is the resinous exudate of the tree Liquidambar orientalis (commonly called oriental sweetgum or Turkish sweetgum), occasionally used in incense or as an aromatic fixative in perfumery. [*] Eringo, this is the sea holly, Eryngium maritimum. [*] Saterion, represents the edible tubers of several orchids. Today substitute Orchis mascula (early purple orchid) which gives us salep powder used in making drinks and ice-creams. [*] Yes, these are cockerel testicles. They were believed to be a very good aphrodisiac during Elizabethan and early Stuart times. [*] These are the seeds of the red deadnettle Lamium purpureum [*] These are the seeds of ribwort plantain Plantago lanceolata which contain a thickening agent. [*] Scincus marinus. Though this is described as a 'fish' it's actually a lizard, the aquatic skink (Scincus scincus). This has been used as a base for pharmaceuticals and perfumes for centuries. [*] Cantarids: This is a variant spelling of antharides, the spanish fly, an emerald-green beetle in the family Meloidae, Lytta vesicatoria [*] Diastersion: This is a prepared medicine. Culpepper's herbal gives the following recipe for it: Diasatyrion College : Take of Satyrion roots three ounces, Dates, bitter Almonds, Indian Nuts, Pine nuts, Festick nuts, green Ginger, Eringo roots preserved, of each one ounce, Ginger, Cloves, Galanga, Pepper long and black, of each three drams, Ambergris one scruple, Musk two scruples, Penins four ounces, Cinnamon, Saffron, of each half an ounce, Malaga Wine three ounces, Nutmegs, Mace, Grains of Paradise, of each two drams, Ash-tree keys, the belly and loins of Scinks, Borax, Benjamin, of each three drams, wood of Aloes, Cardamoms, of each two drams, the seeds of Nettles and Onions, the roots of Avens, of each a dram and a half, with two pounds and an half of Syrup of green Ginger, make them into an electuary according to art." [*] This is a face wash which would act to tighten the skin. The white mercury (which is toxic) would give the complextion a pale aspect. White lead (another toxic compound) was used in a similar fashion). This is definitely one recipe YOU SHOULD NEVER TRY. |
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