Noix or Cushion of Veal is a traditional British recipe, based on Charles Elmé Francatelli's recipe of 1861, for a classic dish of a larded cushion of veal that's seasoned with spices and braised in stock and sherry with herbs and dill until tender, where the cooking liquid is made into a glaze for the meat. The full recipe is presented here and I hope you enjoy this classic British version of: Noix or Cushion of Veal.
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This is a classic recipe for a Victorian version of Noix or Cushion of Veal that's derived from the chef, Charles Elmé Francatelli's 1861 volume, The Cook's Guide and Housekeeper's & Butler's Assistant. Below you will find both the recipe in its original form and a modern redaction.
Original Recipe
No. 401.—NOIX OR CUSHION OF VEAL.
The noix or cushion of veal is that part of the leg to which the udder adheres. In order to separate it from the round or fillet, the leg should be placed on the table with the knuckle from you, then with the left hand take hold of the upper part of the fillet of veal, while with the right hand insert the point of a knife into the separation which divides the noix or cushion from the under part of the fillet; cut the noix away, following the separation right through round to the knuckle, terminating at the left under the udder, which must be allowed to remain in its close adherence to the cushion. Pare off the sinewy parts from that of the cushion which is covered with skin, leaving the udder whole ; and when the fleshy part is laid bare, in a semicircular form, lard this part neatly and closely with fat bacon in the usual way ; and braize the cushion in exactly the same manner as described for fricandeau. When done, dish it up with any of the garnishes prescribed in the preceding cases.
Cut the fatty bacon or pork fat into strips about 5cm long and about 3mm in cross section. Use a larding needle to insert these into the meat, following the directions for larding meat given here.
Render the cloves, mace and allspice to a powder then use this along with salt and black pepper to season the larded veal then place in a pan with the stock, sherry, herbs and shallots. Adjust the seasoning to taste, bring to a simmer and cook the meat gently until tender. Take the meat out, cover with foil and set aside to keep warm.
Skim the surface of the liquid in the pan, bring to a boil then cook down to a glaze. Take the meat, remove the bacon covering then coat in the glaze. Serve on a bed of sorrel sauce.
