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Aliter in grue vel in anate vel in pullo (Roast Duck with Damson Sauce)

Aliter in grue vel in anate vel in pullo (Roast Duck with Damson Sauce) is a traditional Ancient Roman recipe for a roast duck (or crane) served with a spiced damson plum sauce. The full recipe is presented here and I hope you enjoy this classic Ancient Roman version of: Aliter in grue vel in anate vel in pullo.

prep time

210 minutes

cook time

120 minutes

Total Time:

140 minutes

Serves:

4

Rating:

Tags : Sauce RecipesSpice RecipesGame RecipesFowl RecipesAncient Roman Recipes

Original Recipe

Aliter in grue vel in anate vel in pullo (from Apicius' De Re Coquinaria)

In grue, in anate vel in pullo: piper, cepam siccam, ligusticum, cuminum, apii semen, pruna [vel] damascena enucleata, mulsum, acetum, liquamen, defritum, oleum et coques. gruem cum coquis, caput eius aqua quam non contingat, sed sit foris ab aqua. cum cocta fuerit, de sabano calido involves gruem et caput eius trahe. cum nervis sequetur, ut pulpae vel ossa remaneant, cum nervis enim manducare non potest.

Translation

[Blend] pepper, shallots, lovage, cumin, celery seed, prunes or Damascus plums stones removed, fresh must, vinegar broth, reduced must and oil. Boil the crane; while cooking it take care that its head is not touched by the water but that it remains without. When the crane is done, wrap it in a hot towel, and pull the head off so that the sinews follow in a manner that the meat and the bones remain; for one cannot enjoy the hard sinews.

Modern Redaction

The methodology here has been changed from the original recipe (which calls for a crane, though the Apician reference makes plain that a duck can also be used). However, the important aspect here is the sauce rather than the way of preparing the duck (and the use of a pastry crust was prevalent in the ancient world as it part-baked and part-boiled the duck whilst absorbing the fat).

Ingredients:

1 large duck
pinch of peppercorns
1 tsp dried onion
large pinch of lovage seed (or celery seds)

pinch of ground cumin
pinch of celery seeds
70g stoned damsons
50 ml mulsum
50 ml red wine vinegar
50 ml liquamen (or Nam Pla)
50 ml defritum
200g flour
olive oil

Method:

Make a batter from the flour and enough olive oil to bind the flour together. Season this with salt and pepper and use to entirely cover the duck in a layer of pastry. Place in a roasting tin and roast for 2 hours at 170°C (325°F/Gas Mark 3).

Meanwhile place all the herbs in a mortar and grind with a pestle. To this add the mulsum, red wine vinegar, liquamen, defritum and 30 ml olive oil. Mix together and place in a pan. Add the chopped damsons and cook until they are tender.

Strain the sauce and pour over slices of the duck.
Find more recipes from Apicius' De Re Coquinaria along with information on Apicius and his cookbook, all part of this site's Ancient Roman recipes collection.