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Fruit Risshews

Fruit Risshews (Pottage of Squash) is a traditional Medieval recipe for fried pastries with a mixed fruit and spice filling that might represent the true antecedent of mince pies. The full recipe is presented here and I hope you enjoy this classic Medieval version of Fruit Risshews.

prep time

20 minutes

cook time

70 minutes

Total Time:

90 minutes

Serves:

4–6

Rating:

Tags : Spice RecipesBritish RecipesEnglish Recipes

Over the years, I have amassed a large collection of medieval recipes. They’re a fascinating source both for the evolution of the English language and the evolution of food and dishes. In these ancient books you will find the evolution of mince pies (from the first versions that used the venison left-overs after the good meat had been apportioned to the high table). You also see the influence of the Catholic church over the food of the period, especially with ‘fish’ or meat-free days. I’m always amazed by the spicing and the use of sugar (very expensive items); though you must remember that often the dishes recorded were intended for feasts and high society. I came across recipes for risshewes in Harleian MS 4106 and a variant in Laud MS 553 that was boiled rather than deep fried. The filling looked so similar in many ways to mince pies that I decided to adapt the recipes as part of this year’s Christmas repast. Note that an oil-based pastry is used that’s enriched with eggs. The filling is based around figs, raisins, dates and pine nuts with saffron and a range of spices.

I made these for work colleagues just before Christmas and they went down a treat. There was a general call for the recipe of the filling mixture which was deemed much better than commercial mincemeat.

Original Recipe

I’m assuming here the shapes would have been half-moons, rather like pasties.

Modern Redaction

Ingredients:

For the Pastry:
20 strands saffron soaked in 2 tbsp hot water then allowed to cool
200g (2 cups) plain (all-purpose) flour
50g rye flour
3 tbsp powdered sugar (I used golden caster sugar whizzed in a spice grinder)
100ml (½ cup, less 1 tbsp) cold neutral-flavoured oil (I used walnut)
1 egg

For the Filling:
15 strands saffron soaked in 2 tbsp hot water for at least 1 hour
150g (1 cup) dried figs, chopped
50g (⅓ cup) dates, chopped
50g (½ cup) seedless currants
3 tbsp walnut oil (or rapeseed oil or nut oil) or any light, mild flavoured oil
3 tbsp pine nuts
50g (¼ cup) sugar (I used grated jaggery to get closer to medieval sugar loaf)
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground ginger
¼ tsp freshly-ground black pepper
¼ tsp ground nutmeg
⅛ tsp ground Cloves
1/8 tsp ground mace
⅛ tsp fine sea salt
1 egg, beaten
1l (4¼ cups) vegetable oil for deep frying

Method:

To make the pastry, sift together the flours and powdered sugar into a bowl. Drizzle over the oil and rub into the flour until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the egg and the 20-strand saffron infusion to bind the pastry (add a little ice-cold water if necessary). Form the dough into a ball, cover and refrigerate for at least one hour.

For the filling, combine the 15-strand saffron infusion, dried figs, dates, currants and walnut oil into a small food processor. Blitz until you have a coarse paste. If you don’t have a food processor and want to be a little more medieval about this, place the dried figs, dates and currants on a board then chop vigorously with a large knife until they are quite fine. Transfer to a mortar and pound, adding a little oil and saffron infusion until you have a fine paste. At this point work in any remaining oil and infusion.

Scrape the fruit paste into a small bowl then add the pine nuts, sugar ground spices and salt. Mix well until thoroughly combined then divide the fruit paste into twelve even portions (roughly 30g each).

Turn the saffron pastry onto a lightly-floured work surface and toll out to 2-3mm (1/8 in) thick. Stamp or cut out 12 rounds (about 15cm [6in] in diameter). You will probably need to re-roll the left-over pastry to get enough. Reserve the scraps to test the oil before frying.

Lightly brush each round with egg, then place in your dominant hand and pile on the fruit paste. Fold the dough over the filling to enclose then press or fold over the open edges of the pastry to seal in the filling. Repeat with the remaining pastry and filling.

To cook, heat the oil in a large wok over medium-high heat (or pre-heat your deep fryer to 180℃. To see whether the oil is at an appropriate temperature fry a small piece of the left-over pastry. It should result in a spritely but not too ferocious sizzle (approximately 175℃).

Fry the pastries in batches, say three or four at a time, for around 4 minutes (if you have a deep fat fryer this time may be reduced). Use a slotted spoon or spider to turn them frequently, ensuring even cooking.

When they are fully cooked, they will be golden brown in colour. Drain on kitchen towel before serving sprinkled with a little icing sugar. These are best eaten warm but can be reheated in a low oven for 5-10 minutes.